- Видео 4
- Просмотров 137 133
Reloadman
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Добавлен 5 апр 2020
My reloading channel that features my Lee equipment, modifications, tips, and my how-tos.
Powder Buy The Pound Mystery Box
I bought 10 lbs mystery box from Powder Buy The Pound. You get two colors of their choice, all for $41 ($20 plus $21 shipping). Great deal, as long as you don't care about the colors you get, at $4.10 per pound shipped!
Here is the link to the deal: www.powderbuythepound.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Spring+Mystery+Box
That's a whole lot of powder! If anyone want to trade some other colors for the colors I got, email me reloadman9mm@gmail.com and we can discuss it. No Harbor Freight powders as I have bad luck with them.
If you enjoyed my video and would like to donate to my shooting fund here is my PPal link:
www.paypal.com/paypalme/reloadman
Here is the link to the deal: www.powderbuythepound.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Spring+Mystery+Box
That's a whole lot of powder! If anyone want to trade some other colors for the colors I got, email me reloadman9mm@gmail.com and we can discuss it. No Harbor Freight powders as I have bad luck with them.
If you enjoyed my video and would like to donate to my shooting fund here is my PPal link:
www.paypal.com/paypalme/reloadman
Просмотров: 1 229
Видео
APP bullet feeder replacement
Просмотров 5 тыс.4 года назад
This is a 3D printed replacement for the original bullet feeder on Lee's APP press. I have printed these in PLA on 100% infill and they work great. I'll keep adding more calibers as I get them developed. Tube holder is designed to mount on the same bolt that comes with the press. Any small machine screw will work as long as it can go through the loop in the spring. You should sand down the top ...
Wet powder coating method for cast bullets
Просмотров 128 тыс.4 года назад
This is how I coat my lead cast bullets with powder coat. I never had much luck with the dry tumbling method so I tried and eventually came out with this. Many rounds down the barrel I decided to share it. Powder coats: www.eastwood.com/powder-standard-color-sample-kit.html Hexagonal Boron Nitride dry lubricant: www.amazon.com/MICROLUBROL-HEXAGONAL-NITRIDE-Powder-micron/dp/B01N4CSJCB/ref=sr_1_1...
Lee APP spring arm fix
Просмотров 2,8 тыс.4 года назад
Simple way to fix spring bending on your Lee's APP press If you enjoyed my video and would like to donate to my shooting fund here is my PPal link: www.paypal.com/paypalme/reloadman
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Very good video. I tried powder coating but gave it up as too much trouble to get a good coating. I believe your method produces a much nicer product.
you said the bullets get harder over 6 weeks - have you tested that? somehow I don't see how that could happen? or do you mean the coating gets harder?
why powder coating ?
Powder coating serves a few purposes, you can color code your loads into bullet weight, powder grain, powder type, etc. or to more quickly identify your bullets at a range if you are picking up range lead scrap, but the most important aspect is probably not leading up your barrel, it puts a barrier between the lead and your barrel, barrels that have been galled up with lead are a massive, MASSIVE, PITA to clean. When i load 300BLK i use Black powder coating to signify they are 230gr Subsonic, Red SuperSonic, for example.
Acetone is dangerous to breathe or contact for your liver. wear gloves, and use a respirator when wet.
Thanks. I'll give it a try.
Drying time from the time you put them in the tray to the time they go in the oven?
Just a few minutes. I basically leave a rack to dry while I get next one batch coated.
Will standing the bullets up straight in the oven make them better? Wont cooking them against one another make the coat uneven?
If you like to devote the time to do so, absolutely. The uncooked wet coat wont come off or rub off while you stand them up. Dry coating method you can remove a lot of it while handling the bullets prior to baking. One of my other videos shows how strong the coat it before baking.
@@reloadman3006 ty
Was this the Lee 356-120-TC 9mm bullet mold? If so would you still recommend?
Yes, that what was used to cast these. I love TC mold and now only use them. I cast for 9 and 45, both TC.
Very, VERY interesting method ! Thank you very much for sharing. I use Prismatic Powders which (If I understood correctly) are giving me a hard time with the dry shake and bake method, even with airsoft BBs to add static as I read in several forums, and it seems to be because those are made to be used in a pistol painter. I'm gonna try a batch with the method you showed. -The last batch I coated gave me better coating with some metallic green, but for the oven step I put them inside before the oven completely pre-heated, the red and especially purple seemingly left the lead entirely, and I have what looks like lead droplets around the bottom of my bullets ; Is it possible I left the oven on too long (~20-25min) or too hot ? (set to 210 °C) and some of the surface lead melted off ? They were pure lead, not alloy, does it have an incidence on melting temp vs Linotype alloy ? -Yours are properly coated all around their surface : at higher velocities/pressures (I reload .357 and intend to powder coat some cast Linotype, my molds are a Keith-style SWC gas-check base 158gr, and an RNFP plain base 125gr), do you think a gas-check isn't necessary as the base is fully coated, or should I rather put a gas-check on it either way ? Thanks a lot.
I think you need to verify your ovens temperature. My oven temperature control was shit out of the box, basically melted all my bullet on my first try. I've installed a PID controller and nowadays I can leave them there for a long time and at 400 degrees it all works well. I strongly suspect your oven overshoots on the temp. I preheat to 400, open the door and put the bullets in, temp drops to 350ish, eventually gets back to 400, after total time of 20 minutes they are done. As far as gas checks go I would still use them. That what the consensus seems to be. I personally only shoot 9mm and 45 so I only have experience with these.
Why would you powder coat bullets? What's the purpose?
No lube required, no smoke cloud while shooting. Shoots like a plated bullets.
Lee dippers come in many sizes. What size are you using??
1.6cc Lee powder dipper
Why the obsession with having guns and coated bullets by the hundreds? Do you prepare to go to war and kill hundreds of people?
Some of us shoot competitively. I participate in ASI, Glock, SIG, and steel matches, I go through 1k+ per month.
I spray the bullets with carb cleaner then shake em . I get a thinner more evenly applied coat.
Excellent video. Thanks for posting it. I look forward to trying this method.
What lead alloy do you use? What diameter do you cast to ?.401? What diam is the bullet after coating?
I use mainly ww scrap lead for 9s and soft/ww mix for 45s. I cast using lee molds. Once coated I size 9s to .356 and 45s to .451. Those diameters seem to work best in all my guns.
@@reloadman3006 thanks for the video and comment s I plan on casting 10mm
Cool! Now I know how to make a tracer round! *Goes straight to hardware store, purchases flares* ;)
What gauge mesh wire are you using for the drying racks ? Is it steel or aluminum wire ? Thx
It is just a 1/4" mesh wire from Home Depot. Cut, folded to fit the oven. I suggest making sides 2" tall as it will cut back on the spillage.
@@reloadman3006 Thank you. Are you using any temperature PID controller? Any if yes, where I can get one? I see a lot of people use them to control their melters temperature for a more consistent cast.
@@jolebole-yt Yes, with these inexpensive toaster ovens I think it's a good idea to add PID controller. I got mine from EBay but I'm sure all usual suspects have them (amazon, aliexpress, etc). My oven, when I tried without PID, melted my bullets while set to 400 on the dial. I believe the temperature dials are decorative lol. I got two heat coils in the oven so I got 1 PID, and two good quality relays (one for each coil). Once setup, temp was spot on when I also checked with laser temp gun. Additionally, not sure it made any difference, I do have convection (a little fan inside) option on my oven, so it should be consistent 400 everywhere and no cold/hot spots anywhere.
@@reloadman3006 Yes lol. These cheap ovens ether burn your stuff or not bake at all. Good idea on the convection option so it can circulate the air and distribute heat evenly.
Excellent instructional video. 👍🏻
There's evidence that 400 degrees at 20 minutes is overkill from the standpoint of the powder coating curing (depending on the product used*). You only need to heat it to the point that the tgic (tri glycidyl isocyanurate) fuses, which happens at temperatures as low as 200 - 250 degrees. You can tell that powder fusion has commenced by observing the change in surface texture from flat (powdery) to gloss (fluid). Once the powder has made the phase transition to fluid, only a minute or two is required for it to flow out and bond to the underlying surface, and for the rising surface tension to molecularly unite the encapsulating outer skin. At that point, the job is done, so leaving it for a few minutes more is just to ensure that no cool spots exist among the remaining bullets that have not yet made the transition. This wet method that you show is excellent at ensuring uniformity of coating depth by enlisting the surface tension of the solvent ** to align the powder in orderly layers; good job. * Lower cure temperature powder coats are used in the electronics business - in order to keep sensitive chips from overheating, for example. ** Ensure that if you are using acetone as solvent that you are working in a well-ventilated area; acetone fumes are toxic, as are the fumes given off by powder coating.
Acetone is less toxic than ethanol
@@ironmonkey1512 Acetone is toxic, and should be used in a well-ventilated area. While it is not HIGHLY toxic, heavy exposure can cause death, so why chance it? Ethanol kills scads of people - who drink it and drive - so it's not benign, to be sure.
Will try that on next batch. Thanks for your tips
Great idea, great video.
Great video, man. im just getting back into reloading after taking 10 years off. So, will this replace doing the wax or lube for cast bullets ? Im looking forward to trying this setup !!
Very informative! Talenti containers are more valuable than the gelato
Best video on the tube on this subject. 2 thumbs up.
I always had problems with the dry method. Acetone had a perfect coat. Only way for me.
I have been powder coating for about 10 years and this is the first time I've seen somebody doing the wet powder coating learning something new everyday thanks for the video
I came up with a similar solution but just used carb cleaner in a spray can . Makes a nice thin coat very uniform.
mee too im doing it for the first time today as im waatching the video
What is the reason for powder coating bullets? I've been getting interested in reloading and just curious. It looks great btw
You can't shoot raw lead through your barrels. It will coat the inside of your barrel making it smaller and small to the point it will be dangerous. You have to either lube the bullets with grease (hence the grease ring on the base) or coat them. Grease is old school as it smokes like a locomotive when shot and it is not allowed on all indoor ranges. Coating makes no smoke at all, clean shooting, no lead deposits and allowed to be shot anywhere. Casting and coating is the way to go.
What was the “ White Powder” added with the last Wet coat? “Micro??”
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1R5LM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
great video , thank you.
Good Video well presented. I am having a little trouble getting a good finish on my dry coat. I just got some Acetone will give it a go.
I like this idea, going to give it a try.
great video. fyi to everyone. you don't need lanolin. cheap spray furniture polish works great. not the dollar store crap but the one at walmart.
The only reason I recommend lanolin oil spray is that it is just about guaranteed not to mess with powder in some weird way
@reoadman, noob here. Question: do i need to remove lube from purchased bullets before coating, or will acetone do that in the wet coating process?
@reloadman...misspelled on original message.
I don't think that acetone alone will remove all of the lube. I've heard that you could stand the bullets right way up in the oven and melt wax mostly off and then clean the rest with acetone but I can't confirm that. Personally I would recast them. Lube would burn off during casting process.
@@reloadman3006 , I'll try the tip of melting off wax in oven on a short batch to see how it works. I'll let you know. I am not sure if I'll recast the whole lot if cleaning tips don't work. I might just find someone who wants lubed cast and sell to them if cleaning can't be accomplished. Thanks for the reply
just be clear, the boron you are using is ULTRA FINE,? i used ultra PURE, and it wrinkled the finish coating.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1R5LM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@reloadman3006 thank you.
Gonna try this. All the other methods that I tried were not good. Thanks
I bought three Frankford arsenal case tumblers thinking add powder, let vibrate for 15 min. Easy right? Wrong . Whatever these are made of it will not let powder stick.
I tried it made a sticky mess
Before or after baking?
Nice! Well done.
You Mix powder with acetone how long before drying?
20 seconds, not much longer than that.
Instead of using a wire inside, I put a small brass pipe over the outside.
Nice job! This is great to color code your bullit weight. Great video.
Man I tried this with acetone and powder..but they all came out rough like sandpaper.what the heck went wrong.
The only time I had them very rough is when I swirled them too long in the bucket before dumping them onto the baking baskets. The swirling time is very short. Just coat and dump.
i tried coating some 9mmpreheat bullets dry powder in bowl and shook around. too much powder stuck to them, and after in oven, they are thiick,cant even see the ribs on the ammo, ha lesson learned. and i ad about half cup powder, and just 20 bullets to try out hahaha.wow your way seems better. ima give it a try for sure.. let you know...thanks
nice video,, im going to try this this way.. i havent had any luck with powder coating..but you never said what deg you set your oven...
400°F
I have attempted this method a couple times and seems as though I'm doing it wrong. I'm trying to figure out the ratio for powder to acetone mix. I have little clumps (like unmixed brownie/cake batter) in my liquid that transfers to the bullets for a not smooth finish. Do I need more or less acetone for a situation like that?
Make sure you are using acetone and if it is clumping then either less powder or more acetone. It should look smooth as paint.
What are you loading for? Low pressure cartridges I’m having great luck with off the shelf spray paint, the kind that’s primer and paint in 1. 3-5 coats have all tested great for me in 38 Special in 4-6” barrels. Gonna year that stuff plus some tougher paints on bullet in rifle cartridges. Doesn’t seem to have effected accuracy and also dropped my bullet for 38 Special down to pure lead with just enough run for mold fill out. They’re not even leading with traditional lubes. Thought I would share. Powder coat has been tested to moderate rifle velocities that I’m aware of with good results though so good luck either way you go.
@@308dad8 I load 130g 9mm and 230g 45s. I don't shoot rifles more than once a year with factory ammo. I compete with pistols so I needed an economical way to male ammo. I have seen some spray paint videos but I hate to line up my bullets for coat. I cast around 10k rounds and coat them in one weekend. That almost enough for 1 year of competition shooting for me.
After watching this process, i think fewer rounds per basket will minimize the clumping. would appreciate more details on the white powder you added to the coating. Thank you...
There is a link in the video's description to Amazon where you can buy the white power and info about it.
@@reloadman3006 thank you.
the details i was looking for, was clearity of its purpose in the process, i dont quite understand what its doing...
@@TheSirRip I found this powder on some forum while just starting casting/coating. It is dry micro lubricant so I figured it may help so why not. Is it necessary, probably not, does it work for me, sure, my barrels show no signs of leading. It part of my system and since I get great results I keep adding it. To put that in perspective, you won't be able push your hand into a box of uncoated bullets very far but with my coated process you'll be able to touch the bottom.
@@reloadman3006 ok, kool to know. thanx again...
Is this comperable to commercial coated bullets? No lube needed and can be fired at higher velocities?
This is similar to HT coated bullets. You should still load for lead bullet velocities rather than FMJ. No lube needed to fire these.
@@reloadman3006actual high tech has seen their bullets pushed over 2000fps
I just spray my lead bullets with Lubriplate coating. 🤣
The only reason I use lanolin oil is because is doesn't mess with powder once loaded, from what I've heard. Seems to be the fact as I fired couple years old rounds without any problems.
I noticed a PID on your oven, may I ask where you got it?
The usual place of wonder, Ebay! Although I'm sure Amazon has them too. You'll also will need relays to go with that as well. My oven has two heating coils so I got one for each.