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Does anyone know if the 7.4L TBI engine on a 95 GMC2500 suburban has adjustable valves?

Absolutely perfect!!!!!

Hydraulic lifters or solid ?

2 Videos in 1 day? What is it Christmas?

Don't know much about 🚗 but I sure do enjoy watching you, sooooo handsome!

I love that old school Mallory Promaster ignition coil..ran one on my 67' Camaros 327 that I built up..along with the Mallory Unilte distributor and spark plug wires. Excellent video here.

new subscriber watching from uk. love this stuff. oxfordshire so prodrive, cosworth, lot of f1 nearby - just not really my cup of tea. like drag racing/street racing/line racing whatucallit. didn't know i did til i did but i do!

This is hands down my most FAVORITE RUclips channel in the world, thank you Rusted Wrench Garage.

I think that bypass valve works when the difference in pressure from the dirty side to the clean side is 10 psi, so if you have a clean filter and oil and your engine is making 50 psi then it's 50 psi on both sides of the filter and valve stays closed. As you put miles on the oil and it starts to get dirty and the filter is loading up with contaminants, you may start to get 50 psi on the dirty side and 48 on the clean side, keep running it and that difference starts to increase. Once the difference gets to 10 psi that valve will open and let some dirty oil "bypass" the filter and go the the engine. The key is to change oil/filter before that happens.

I think it’s important in cold environments when the oil is too thick to be pushed through the filter. It’s definitely there for a reason.

Answer to your question is....yes the bypass pretty much stays open all the time at anything over 15lbs. so yes at 40 and lets face it, race engines usually run WAY above that (sometimes 70 to 80 psi or more at high RPM), at least half of the oil or more is blowing past the bypass valve unfiltered. I plug every bypass that leaves this shop (except on some stock engines) and tell my customers to use a Wix filter and a race engine I demand a Wix Racing filter (yes the Wix Racing filters less micron, but flow better and wont collapse)...You are giving great advice there for sure. It should be noted that almost all filters have a safety bypass built into them anyway. The key is, with 38yrs of race engine building behind me....Run a good filter and plug the bypass. Great video!

You would be surprised how much unfiltered oil goes through your engine.

It only opens when there is 10 lbs of pressure difference/restriction, not 10 lbs per square inch. So, yuh 50 weight in the cold, bypass: plugged up filter, bypass. But most filters bypass too. Normal filters bypass internally, and if they ever bypass it's only by their differential amount. So there is still filtering happening with "some" oil going around the filter. I understand your reasoning for the bypass on race and performance engines though.

One more thing. Motors are electric. 😊

By the way, you have a new subscriber!

In my humble opinion. Bypass valves are for the general public. In racing applications, it’s very different. When racing engines are built, they have to go through break in procedures that require a certain amount of attention. Fresh engines require camshaft and ring break in procedures that creates a lot of fine particulates in the break in oil that needs to be captured. It can take as many as two to four oil changes to properly break in a race or high performance engine, depending on what type of camshaft you’re running. Rollers fewer than flat tappits. This is actually a subject for high performance engines. I hope this helps a bit.

Personally I like to block them in a performance application. However if you're going to do that it would seem wise to look for the biggest filter you can fit WITHOUT a bypass listed in the specifications. Some places have to special order that. It's funny to me the amount of people who think they are getting straight filtered oil when they block that passage only to install a filter with a built in bypass. The redundancy does them in. Filters with no bypass also normally focus on getting volume through the filter so they aren't the greatest at filtering the finest particulates. It's a balancing act. You also have to remember to take it easy while warming up the engine/ oil or it may spring a leak with high oil psi. There could also be the possibility of tearing the filter material or separating the joined ends at cold start. Torn filter material is likely to only be found when the filter is dissected.

i appreciate all the comments hearing other peoples ideas help us learn from there experiences

Chevy is 1/4" npt. If you do it you should run a 396 truck filter or a remote adapter and something like a HP6 or equivelent to have enough flow volume. On a regular passenger daily. The bypass is ok to have. They often run open. In a serious hi perf application. They should be plugged and a huge filter used.

Most oil filters have a biult in bypass now

Never really thought about it by passing but what I've done for a lot of years is change just my filter between oil changes

Well you have an additional problem if you block off the bypass valve. And that is the risk of blowing the oil filter apart, and before anyone ask. Yes you can blow up an oil filter, or split an oil filter if the oil pump builds more pressure than what the oil filter is physically capable of handling. I have only ever seen that happen on one engine, in one vehicle which was a 1970 something Ford F-100 dent side which the engine was either a 302 or a 390 in it. The truck belonged to my father, and it had a faulty oil pump in it that caused the engine to build so much oil pressure it split the oil filter.

Isn't it a "differential pressure " bypass? So if the Filter causes more than 10psi "pressure drop" Some will bypass the filter? Not a situation where it opens after 10 psi of engine oil pressure

Always block it off on High Performance and on new engines.👍👍 On stock engines after break-in if you like you can re-install the bypass. Just subscribed to your channel. Have a great weekend.

I learned this trick in the late 70's when I saw it described in Bill Jenkins' engine book. Use the largest filter you can get (Fram PH373 or equivalent) or maybe multiple filters to maximize filtering capacity.

Hi, thanks, I have a lt4 in a Camaro, GM sells two oil filers for that motor, and the upgraded one has a higher bypass pressure in the filter itself... What does that mean?? I think the normal one is 15 psi and the upgrade one is 25...PLEASE HELP...Dave

We plugged the bypass on our midwest asphalt circle track race car. But there was one potential problem with running the heavy 20W50 racing oil. One night near the end of the season, the temperature dropped into the low 50's and one of our competitors started his engine to warm it up. He immediately revved it really high and blew the oil filter apart. We never knew if it was a cheap oil filter or what was the cause of the failure. We took it as a lesson learned and kept the engine warm between heat races on cold nights.

Met him once in ring gold Georgia, got a handicap man with cerebral palsy I think, put him in the car, lit that bitch, made that man smile, much respect Kye, see ya in Kantucky

🤣 'PromoSM'

Great video thanks. I can't find any videos on how to remove. I want to remove mine so i can check the spring tension. Do you have to remove the exhaust rocker extensions first to get it off?

😈 P r o m o s m

What motor?

Nice run!