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by the time it matters you are on the edge of needing an aftermarket block........either way its better than not racing.

Ran 550hp in mud truck with factory cast crank 6,000 rpm’s never a hiccup, definitely not what you’re gonna run, but with bounce

Machine shop should have told you to offset grind the crank, not deck the block. You get more stroke and cubes that way. Go to 0 deck too. Oh and stop waving the camera around, I damn near threw up....😅

sonic test the cylinder bores and fully crack test the block especially the valley and deck surfaces

2 bolt stud and strap is a third option

Neither they both suck!😂

4 bolt main def. their tougher engines. especially if your going for a high horse engine nothins better than a 4 bolt main.

If you're only going to 7500 I use the block you got sitting there till it breaks If you're going to 9 Grand then you got to worry about it you can get away with a two-bolt man at 7,500 you have to understand these blocks are old and they've been around a long time or just buy a dart block add a steel crank they're all bombs ready to go off ends on your valve train

My big block is a 2 bolt main I've never had any problems we all know a 4 bolt is better but like I said I've never had a problem intact I'm getting ready to put together a lil 406 small block and with a 400 I prefer to use a 2 bolt over a 4 bolt .

There's nothing wrong with the two bolt Main, run quite a few back in the early 80s injected motor in a boat, I was really hard on it no problems. The key is lightest and strongest piston rods and crank. Actually the web in the block with a two-bolt main is stronger than a 4 bolt Main. If the two bolt main caps are fitted properly with good studs there won't be no walking the cap speculation garbage. Now to the crack block don't be welding on it you'll cause more trouble than what it's worth, overlap screw the crack. If you don't know what that means I can't explain it to you, then take and sleeve that cylinder. What's causing 90% of these blocks to be cracked like that is that these so-called machine shops are putting these blocks in the oven and heated them up to clean them that is a no no. EPA seems to turn everybody's head😂.

Have them machine the block for splayed caps. Better than a 4 bolt.

Doug, unless I missed it. Other than 8k rpm. What information do we get to help you assess the risk. Is it N/A, blown, nos, turbo, 16 to 1 compression, How much stroke are you planning to go with and these sorts of things are helpful in deciding on how well the rotator should be strapped to the case. Wish you all the best sir!

I don't believe those small cracks will cause any problems. You could pressure test the block to make sure it hasn't made it to the cylinder. BBC have thick sleeves from the factory. You said it's on alcohol so it will run cooler than gasoline. And the crack is coming from the water passage. Put some sealer in the coolant and run a lighter pressure radiator cap. But as I first said I don't think it will be a problem. As far as 2 vs 4 bolt a 2 bolt with studs will be fine. As you know BBC have healthy main caps and main webbing. Good luck with your build.

weld it up, run ceramic coating through the cooling jackets and you're done...no biggie.... 10 years ago...sure, today's aerospace chemistry not an issue

I run a 2 bolt ARP studs and a girdle everything runs great

I personally run a 2-bolt 454 with studs and all forged components. I know this setup can safely turn 6500, but certainly not running the horsepower or rpms you do. I recall one of the mechanics at a custom engine shop who also ran a moderate 454 (about 550) 2-bolt with studs. He started running a 200 hp shot of nitrous on an 1/8 mile track and found that there was some cap walk.

Kia / Hyundai : use OEM filters, only. The oil pressure is under powered on several of their models . You dont want lower the oil pressure any further by employing a better filtering filter.

To Bolt gun pass, in comments, for one thing, its STUPID to rev any engine high when its cold, its nit wits like that that blow up perfectly good engines then blame it on the engine company or builder, besiides there is NO reason to run such a thick oil, we run straight 30 wt. Valvoline in all classes,! No problem, We run wix 51061 in Sbcs, Bbcs, 51515 in the fords, .003 on mains, .002 on the rods ! Multi grades or really light oils do not work with these clearances, might hammer rod bearings out Hope this helps

It is not the oil pressure from the pump that opens the valve, it is the pressure difference across the filter caused by the flow that opens the valve. Many filters have a built-in bypass, so plugging it does not matter.

Ive run WIX 51061 on everything, what you dont know is the filter has a much stronger ɓy pass in it How you can check it is, get a big long screwdriver set the filter on a bench, open end up ,stick the driver down into it and press down really hard. The by pass spring will move, so.. dont worry about the filter plugging, Wix has you covered !

I got 469 ci.

Using a snap guage to check your bore will be rough estimate. It's hard to get repeat readings within a few thousandths with a snap guage. They are better than nuthin, but not great.

Yeah NO Holley hands down better for real HP

I detect a vacuum leak , might be the vacuum advance I'm not completely positive

Nice car Doug. New coil is a good idea. So is changing out the carb. Remember, you are supposed to be having fun.

Looks like someone's place a washer. Remove the washer to exposed the seal.

The by pass only opens up depending on the pressure drop across the filter not the oil pressure per say. If you block the by pass consider using a bigger capacity oil filter how big? Check out what Bill Jenkins used on his 331 SBC.

I just read a lot of reviews about Calvert springs maybe your right. I just know all the old timers keep saying monos will get you killed. Obviously not considering Calvert

Mono leafs are dangerous You can do Detroit Speed or Hotchkis lowering leafs and have to height you want with springs that will give you great handling. I just replaced my monos with multi leaf and the handling is unbelievable better. I went Hotchkis wish I would of went Detroit Speed but everyone said Hotchkis. Didn’t drop as much as I want. Or I should say old monos had sagged at least 3” but looked good. Only felt like I was in a boat with choppy seas. Hotchkis 3” drop raised fender 1-1/4” inch.

What is wrong with you

I don't think plugging the bypass matters that much. Most oil filters have a built-in bypass,so they don't bulge, leak,or worse. The filter is probably almost never filtering 100% of the oil going through it. The higher the oil pressure goes, the more oil gets bypassed around the oil filter element inside the filter. So you can go ahead and plug the bypass,but you're never gonna get 100% of the oil to go through the oil filter. It starts bypassing the filter element at as low as 20psi. Don't believe me? Look inside any oil filter, and you'll see a spring and a rubber diaphragm. When there's greater than about 20 psi of oil pressure on it,it begins to press on the spring and let the oil be diverted around the filter element because the oil can't go through the element fast enough. The filter would leak or burst if it didn't have this feature.

The filters have a by pass.

If it’s been running on alcohol, then been sitting for any real length of time, it’s very likely that there is rust in the intake parts and on the valves. Also on the cylinder walls and rings.

Cold thick oil could starve the engine. The filter has a bypass too. I put a washer under the spring to make it stiffer and they sell stiffer springs for hp use.

I want to c how it comes out the hole now lol

Yeap, big low end torque motors are very forgiving. Personally I'd rather have more low to mid torque than upper rom hp.

run a screen on top the oil filter,, I'm thinking moroso makes them,,,,break your engine in then remove screen and see if you have medal or whatever in the screen!!! works great

Very simple. For stock engines. 1. block your vehicles bypass! 2. for fresh engines use a top quality filter with biggest filtering area and no bypass. Replace filter and oil after 2-3 short intervals, i.e. 200m, 500m, 1000m. 3. Use top quality filter with bypass after that and frequently replace oil and filter together every 2000-4000miles. 4. Use Manufacturer specified oil if available, otherwise proper research backed premium brand matching oil. 5. don’t ever flush/additivise oil or gas. Top quality oil and gas treats contamination as it should be. If your engine is Hotrodded the expert of manufacture is your responsibility now. Good Luck if you’re a beginner. A big learning curve will be ahead.

Great video, keep up the good work

Does anyone know if the 7.4L TBI engine on a 95 GMC2500 suburban has adjustable valves?

Absolutely perfect!!!!!

Hydraulic lifters or solid ?

2 Videos in 1 day? What is it Christmas?

Don't know much about 🚗 but I sure do enjoy watching you, sooooo handsome!

I love that old school Mallory Promaster ignition coil..ran one on my 67' Camaros 327 that I built up..along with the Mallory Unilte distributor and spark plug wires. Excellent video here.

new subscriber watching from uk. love this stuff. oxfordshire so prodrive, cosworth, lot of f1 nearby - just not really my cup of tea. like drag racing/street racing/line racing whatucallit. didn't know i did til i did but i do!

This is hands down my most FAVORITE RUclips channel in the world, thank you Rusted Wrench Garage.

I think that bypass valve works when the difference in pressure from the dirty side to the clean side is 10 psi, so if you have a clean filter and oil and your engine is making 50 psi then it's 50 psi on both sides of the filter and valve stays closed. As you put miles on the oil and it starts to get dirty and the filter is loading up with contaminants, you may start to get 50 psi on the dirty side and 48 on the clean side, keep running it and that difference starts to increase. Once the difference gets to 10 psi that valve will open and let some dirty oil "bypass" the filter and go the the engine. The key is to change oil/filter before that happens.

I think it’s important in cold environments when the oil is too thick to be pushed through the filter. It’s definitely there for a reason.

Answer to your question is....yes the bypass pretty much stays open all the time at anything over 15lbs. so yes at 40 and lets face it, race engines usually run WAY above that (sometimes 70 to 80 psi or more at high RPM), at least half of the oil or more is blowing past the bypass valve unfiltered. I plug every bypass that leaves this shop (except on some stock engines) and tell my customers to use a Wix filter and a race engine I demand a Wix Racing filter (yes the Wix Racing filters less micron, but flow better and wont collapse)...You are giving great advice there for sure. It should be noted that almost all filters have a safety bypass built into them anyway. The key is, with 38yrs of race engine building behind me....Run a good filter and plug the bypass. Great video!