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Thank you VERY much for the feedback and checking out the channel!

@@midwayj5291 it’s because the tailgate angles as it opens up. Once the tailgate is open then it is perfectly level with ground. Thank you for checking out the video and the comments!

@jeffiovine4577 For anyone on the fence - ended up attempting to put it on. The 11/32 drill bit they tell you to use does not fit the inserts provided to me using any amount of pressure or pounding. I got one in by rounding it out a bit bigger than the 11/32 they tell you to use but the second hole rounded out a little too much butchering my tailgate and the install. People here - I would pass on this based on the install and in my personal opinion bad instructions/hardware provided. You might lose the "round it out" lottery like I did.

You can’t put the Top Lift Pro into the cargo area to life the roof, if the cargo deck is in place.

​@@jeffiovine4577now that makes sense

@@UncleFjester You have a bright future on “The Price is Right”. And correct, aluminum doesn’t rust. But it can corrode with exposure to moisture and oxygen. Also galvanic corrosion when in contact with other metals. There is a reason why aluminum aircraft are painted, aside from looking cool.

I was able to put it in. But I did modify it by using a box cutter razor to slice off the right and left ends of it. I used a metal straight edge as my guide to make nice smooth cuts so that the Matt fits into the narrower space between the cargo box side walls. I also made small cuts to poke the D rings up through in the bottom of the load floor so they could be accessed with the mat in place. Thank you for checking out the video!

Agreed. I wrote them about the issues. It is still worth the bit of effort though. One year later and 10,000 miles, and it still works perfectly. No LEDs have failed. I get a lot of compliments at “cars n coffee”. Thanks for checking out the channel and your comments 👍🏻

Thank you for the info and for checking out the channel!

Thank you very much for the feedback!

Agreed. Fortunately the black was easy to match with Rustoleum , and no one would ever notice. But it should be packed better so that the customers aren’t having to do touch up on their brand new product. 👍🏻

Thank you Very much! And thanks for checking out the Channel!

Thanks for checking out the channel and the kind words. I think it would be fine on a lightly breezy day, as the base is fairly wide, and it is pretty heavy/solid. But the sail area/surface area of the roof is not something I would not want out for any long-term storage. It does just rest on the lift, so could slide in windy conditions, and that would change the balance/center of gravity. I leave mine out of the way, in my garage. It can park over the hood of the bronco, or a smaller car.

Thank you very much for the feedback and visit!

The back wall doesn’t fold, and the bolts to disassemble are only accessed from inside the cargo side. This it to provide security, so that someone can’t just fold your seats forward to access, remove bolts and take cargo inside the compartment. But the forward 2 roof panels should fit inside the compartment with the compartment lid on - i haven’t tried, but pretty sure they would fit. Will update if not, once warm enough to remove my panels. I still put plenty of long items, from wood, to carpets, in the vehicle though. I just rest on the top of the cargo box and over the seats, including front passenger seat (with the headrest removed). You can adjust front passenger seat tilt so that the height on top with headrest removed is identical to top of cargo box, and just lay long items across from front to back. I’ve carried a lot of cargo that way.

I’m not sure if you could adapt it. The third brake light it replaced had an extra wire, which I’m assuming probably went to some additional LEDs that are only used to flash with the lock/unlock. But that’s just a guess. Those instances are so rare though for me, it just isn’t a factor. Anyone that sees it an operation thinks it looks awesome. It looks very factory in my opinion where some of them just are overdone with too many lights and I think a nuisance for someone behind you at a traffic light. I’ve had this on for a year, and still working great, no LEDs failed.

Other than one exception, when I was stuck at a traffic light for about six minutes with the signal on to turn left, the lights have always had a normal blinker rate for the sound and I’m assuming the flash outside. That one time, when the signal was on for an extended period at the light, it did what you describe, making a rapid signal sound. At about three times the normal rate. I don’t know what the actual light was doing on the exterior. Otherwise, It always worked normally for the half year owned the vehicle (I ended up, trading it on a Raptor that is featured in some of my videos). Thank you for checking out the channel!

Strange. Did the lights come with two small harnesses in the box? Does not seem like it from the video. With the harnesses the sound is normal.

@@GroovyGeek not that I recall. And yeah, I would’ve shown it in the video if it did. They’ve probably made a few tweaks, since it’s been more than a year since I purchased and installed. I just loved that they really were dramatically better headlights than the OEM.

Thank you! The Methods (in Bahia Blue) have a 0 (zero) offset. The OEM rims have a +34 mm offset. The Methods are mounted on the factory 37” KO2s. That results in about 1 1/2 inch of poke on each side versus the OEM Rim. There are no clearance issues after installing the method rims, either vertically or with full left or right turn angles. So no modifications need to be done for the installation. And the slightly wider stance is noticeable and very cool.

I posted more photos and info on the form here if you’d like to check it out. www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/method-race-wheels-305-gloss-bahia-blue-w-black-lip-installed-tailgate-bumper-solution-bronco-raptor.75556/

@@jeffiovine4577love it man. Thanks! So many nice options with Method!!!

You bet! Thanks for checking out the channel!

Do you have any other / extra of the plastic/scew fasteners. Maybe the one your using is stripped? That hole on the vehicle that you’re putting the fastener in is empty - so it is just the screw grabbing the interior of the plastic plug and pulling it towards the screw head which flattens/expands the plug body so it grips inside that hole. If the threading inside the plug got damaged or stripped, the screw will just spin and it won’t be able to collapse the fastener to lock it into the hole. I bought a kit with a variety of those plugs on Amazon but they may also sell them at the AutoZone if you didn’t want to wait to get extra plugs. And thank you for the kind remarks. 👍🏻

@@jeffiovine4577 it was operator error - that inner slot takes the factory pin plug and not the screw that goes into the bracket. I used the pin plug with an extra long screw to secure it - thanks

@@brianhumphrey8494 awesome 👍🏻 and thank you for the follow-up!

Thanks for checking out the channel. The Big Bangers are sweet 👍🏻

@jeffiovine4577 they sure are. Very bright and the color is very nice (nichia amber).

You’re welcome! Thanks for checking out the channel!

Thank you for the feedback and Subscribe!!

It’s on the Raptor, so light sits up a bit higher due to the larger diameter tire. Very similar installation on the non-raptor.

Awesome! Thank you kindly for the feedback!

Yes, at time mark 1:27, I discuss that. I loosened them up, without fully removing, to give room for the socket wrench.

Nothing I have noticed. The vertical plane of the light ring is pretty well forward of the camera lens location. So I don’t really think it can shine into the Lens assembly. If anything, there may be a little more light to illuminate the ground when backing up, since the rear tire really blocked the OEM red light from hitting the ground near the back of the vehicle until probably 10 feet behind the vehicle. But def no red glare or bloom in camera that I have ever noticed. Thanks for checking out the channel and for your service!

Good eye! I did originally leave on, because the goose gear instruction manual didn’t say to remove it. But I did unbolt it and remove the plastic trim, panel, and reinstall. I also transferred the table over to my Raptor and remove the plastic panel for that as well.

Can’t change zones. They do have about twice the output as the OEM, so it does make it easier to see off centerline. But there is not a zone / turn light that changes with a turn signal.

Very happy with it! Tnx for checking out the channel!

Thanks for checking out the channel and all the helpful tips for installation and silencing! I have found the fixed lid version to be essentially rattle-free so far.

@@jeffiovine4577 👍. All of the rattles I found came from the side panel mounting ponts (metal to metal, or the front panel. Other than that (and the cost), it's great for securing items out of sight.

@@retnav92 it’s the “game changer” for me keeping the roof fully off normally. Without the enclosure, It would be hard to use the vehicle as a daily, on those multiple-errand days. I don’t want to worry about stuff being stolen from the cargo area.

I found their performance so markedly better than the OEM that I would say yes. If you plan on keeping your Bronco - long term - it sure makes night driving noticeably better. The only negative lately has been the trade-in value on the OEMs. It was a paltry (laughable) $20 last month from Morimoto. So weight that into your “affordable” calculation. You can check their site and see what their trade value is. I am sure other places you can sell the OEMs as well. body shops, repair market likely has an interest.

Yes. If the key is not near the vehicle (appears to be greater than 15 to 20 feet when I test it), the “unlock” buttons do not work in the vehicle when you reach inside and try - and when unlock pushed, will give a notice on the instrument display “SWITCHES INHIBITED - SECURITY MODE”. If you pull the door handles to open, the door will unlock and open (safety requirement so you can’t lock someone in vehicle)- but in about 5-10 seconds the alarm system goes off. You get an immediate security WARNING on the instrument cluster at the moment of door handle activation, but the car gives you about 5-10 seconds to disable the alarm with Fob or key. The alarm cannot be silenced without the key fob or key unlocking. When I leave my doors on (roof fully removed), I still roll up the windows. I am 6’2” and I cannot reach the door handle by reaching over the open roof, if I stand on the running board. So certainly, leave windows up as an other great deterrent. But yes, interior unlock button disabled when locked, and using interior door handle trips alarm.

@@jeffiovine4577 that is great to know, thank you! This will work great then.

@@matnheth you’re welcome! And many thanks for checking out the channel (and getting me to test out and learn something new - My neighbors are like, “is something wrong over there Jeff?”, LOL)

Thank you for the kind words and checking out the channel!

Thanks for the update. That is not even worth the time and effort for only $20. Hopefully it changes to something more reasonable. My understanding is that these are purchased for the secondary auto repair market - collision damage. I like the lights so much, that I may have purchased anyway, but I can see why this would now be a deal-breaker.

That is tied to the courtesy lighting - flash of lights for unlock/lock. Separate from the power sent to the light by depressing the brake pedal. It is rarely used, and I didn’t find it beneficial or something I cared about. The other brake/turn-signals still flash for that feature. (I am guessing that Jeep - which this was originally made for - doesn’t flash the center brake light for unlock, so Oracle didn’t design to have another power source/wire)

Thanks! It’s a really solid piece of gear. I’m definitely happy with it. Thanks for stopping by the channel!

You could definitely keep the rear cross piece out as it is the last part to attach (other than the top). And you could still use the four bolts (2 per sidewall) to secure the side walls to the top. That would hold the top very securely in place, and I think would also eliminate any chance of rattling. This would, of course give access to the storage area by pulling the seats forward if you didn’t have your doors on. But it would definitely provide a strong deterrent visually to seeing what is in the cargo compartment for anyone walking by the vehicle, if it was totally nude. And if your doors were installed, and the entire roof is off, it would also be pretty effective, since it would be hard to access behind the seats with the doors installed and locked.

@jeffiovine4577 appreciate the reply! Yeah, you'd be comprising safety by not using that piece. It just feels like such a big inconvenience to not be able to have the full space when needed. Depends on your use case, if youre not regularly dropping the seats then the back piece makes sense.

@@bluezklewz8351 if you keep your doors on normally, (a lot of people do, because of kids or a spouse that doesn’t like the door off) - then it would be pretty effective with the seat-wall off, since you really can’t access seats with doors on and locked - especially if the windows are up.

It works, but it also serves as a major structural brace. On mine, the side panels are prone to rattle and not hold fully flush against the actual interior trim panels, and removing the elements that help push them flush just exacerbates rattling. I do think I'm going to change how I do the bolts for the back panel; I'll probably reverse the direction of the lower bolts so the carriage head is in the cargo area. That'll make install/ removal much easier, and the top bolts installed normally will still provide some security should someone gain access through the second row.

@@etmccaus I came up with a solution to make it much easier to remove and replace the top using weatherstripping as a “resting ledge” for the top panel. And I made a change to the hardware for the single bolt on the cross panel. I plan on editing, and posting a video with the information.

Correct. You have to remove the lid, which I can do in a few minutes. And that works out fine, because if the top is on, I don’t need the lid on the cargo box, and it allows items to stand up in back if I need height. I ran a piece of stick-on door weather seal along the edge where lid rests inside the side walls. So I can unbolt the 5 bolts, and the lid wont move/slide down sidewall. This makes it easy to remove and reinstall - just set the lid on the “rail” I made with that sealing, and then screw in the 5 bolts. I can do in a couple of minutes. I may make an video to show the simple $10 mod (cost of the weather stripping)

ruclips.net/video/bwYNkl3Gpfw/видео.html

Thank you! And it is Standard 👍🏻

Awesome. Thx for answering

Thank you very much for the remarks, and the subscription! Greatly valued!

Lol on drill. I hear ya! I was very apprehensive. But once you see how the rivet-nuts fit when installed -it looks totally factory without the table bolted into them - you realize it’s ok. I even installed same table again on my BRaptor that I traded the Wildtrak in for. Thank you for stopping by!

Thanks for feedback. Here’s the link www.goose-gear.com/products/ford-bronco-2021-present-tailgatetable And I made a video regarding its install as well: ruclips.net/video/UOFspS4RXbg/видео.html The video also has links regarding table and instructions on the details page.