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Thanks.. I considered the PCCM+ but just couldn't justify the price. Basic wired carplay and it has to be plugged in from the front. I chose the SONY because of the clean looking outer bezel.

@@NSXavier997 okay! Excellent work!!

Yes, this was filmed before Honda came out with a proper Recall. We were replacing short blocks on all cars that came in with locked up engines up until that point. I can't comment on how long this took me. I'll just say that the labor time this pays under warranty is robbery by the Manufacturer and once again, the Technicians get the short end of the stick.

Technicians get screwed with warranty times all the time . The older you get the worse it is. 42 years in the business for me. I am hourly. I would never work flat rate. Especially at my age. Good luck my friend.

@@TracyWatson-r8i This is an old video that I put out before HONDA came out with the recall. You probably had an inspection and repair procedure A done your TLX. That’s basically tear down of the connecting rods, inspection of the rod bearings and replacement of the bearings themselves.

Yes they all will develop some form of oil consumption over time / operating hours.

@@NSXavier997 Well that sucks. I own a 2013 to with 53 thousands miles on it. Maybe I should trade it in.

I can't say for certainty on this example because I have done so many of them that I can't remember this vehicle's VIN# to be able to look up service history to follow up on it. Professionally speaking, I can say that this repair has had a very high success rate- meaning I have not yet had a car come back after the repair has been done with a complaint of continued oil consumption. Personally speaking, I can say that four years ago, I performed this repair on my own 2013 MDX and have since accumulated about 35k miles on it and it does not burn a lick of oil.

Must the piston heads be changed every time to avoid oil burn

Quality issues are rampant through ALL manufacturers, not just Honda. But I agree with you. The product has changed drastically in the last decade.

me too after this repair im going to look at the 3 series

This is an old video. I think with this setup I was around 500whp.

@@NSXavier997 sounds good. U have a new set up now ?

@@HeadShotMonsta yea check out my other video that’s like…. 20+ minutes long.

So that the unit thinks that it’s always in park. This way the HDMI input can work all the time.

Ah you tricked the unit… clever..thanks!

It does have it. Can’t work without it. It’s not outlined in the video but the RCA cables are plugged into the most converter box and into the SONY head unit via “connector 2”. Connector 2’s location can be found in the head units operating manual.

Thanks!

@@NSXavier997 Which MOST box did you guys go with? One i'm finding cost $700+ yikes.

@@Ducali_27the one I got was from Amazon and cost like $40

Hello. I ran the inputs from the head units wire harness to the appropriate terminals on the vehicles connectors behind the radio (constant 12v and ground) and to the connector by the passengers footwell (switched 12v). I did not cut or solder, but rather tinned the ends of each wire and just back-probed them into the connectors terminal receptacles. It’s not as secure as using a tap or cutting/soldering, but it prevents any type of hacking of the factory wire harness. I did not want to cut the factory harness at all.

Thanks much!

Haven't been proven yet but my theory is that upon assembly, incorrect tolerances on the crank main and / or rod journals to their respective bearings has caused either bearing(s) to spin. I actually have one in my bay right now with a broken connecting rod. I took the crank pulley bolt off previously while it was still in the car. I use a special socket and a Milwaukee cordless impact to take them off no problem.

BBS E88; $5,500 when I bought em (dunno how much they go for now). +50 & +42.

are they 19 or 18"@@NSXavier997

Anything is better than the factory 997.1 triangle wheel. Both visually and actual feel of it in your hands. The 991 steering wheel upgrade is definitely worth the cost.

@@NSXavier997 yeah, I agree. I have not the triangular one but rounded one. Would prefer smaller diameter also, but not sure 991's is?

Yes it is compatible with XM

Thanks for the follow. The symptom you describe is completely normal and has been documented on various 997 Turbo specific sub forums as a normal characteristic. I do experience the same, but only after long periods of the car sitting. It is very infrequent. People have tried to fix this problem but to my knowledge, have not posted any confirmed repairs. The symptom always seems to linger even after component replacement. If I had to scientifically guess what is causing the noise, I’m going to have to say that it is excessive tolerance in the cam sprocket gears and chain. The reason I theorize this to be the case is formed from first-hand experience. Honda/Acura has an engine (K24) that exhibits the same exact symptom and their repair is to replace the VTC actuator (intake cam sprocket) and tensioner. I have done this repair on many Honda and Acura vehicles and the noise does indeed go away thereafter. RUclips search “K24 VTC rattle” and you’ll find many videos that show what I have described above. Although I can’t prove it until I actually put a repair into practice, but I’d be most confidently willing to bet that the cause for the rattle noise on startup on our MEZGER engines is caused by increased tolerance in the Cam sprocket and chain, and the first repair that I would try is to replace Bank 1 and Bank 2 intake cam sprockets (Variocam Actuators).

I won’t disagree with that. Minus the fuel cleaner, I basically do that with mine and it hasn’t burned any oil. I did the pistons and rings on it back in 2020 and have added about 40k miles.

@@NSXavier997think ill stop using 89 Plus at Shell and go use 91 or higher from shell or chevron. as its says for my 14 Acura RDX Tech 2wd. Has 126k miles on it rn.

Also i been using Honda filters and Valvoline 0-20 Full synthetic the A02 wish could get some A01’s. I haven’t noticed any oil burning. But then i only put 1000miles on it since i bought it. I sent out transmission sample as good measure to BlackStone Labs. As i do with my 04 Accord EXV6 sedan with 91k that engine and car is one of the cleanest ever see. Its on my channel.

Oil consumption will continue. Eventually the excessive carbon build up will become severe enough to increase static compression ratio. This will result in very poor fuel economy and the engine exhibiting engine ping under load. Once the oil control rings completely seize, then the risk of cylinder bore scoring becomes an issue. When that happens then the cylinder(s) will be permanently damaged, and will cause a loss of compression & misfire. At that point it is too late and the short block will need to be replaced.

@@NSXavier997 thanks, you're tha man.

The cylinder walls have a special coating in them that’s why you don’t see any crosshatching, putting a hone in it would ruin the cylinder wall

Show me on the Technical Service Bulletin that’s published by American Honda where it says to hone the cylinder bores. This is a warranty repair. You have to follow the procedure the way it’s written or risk warranty debit after the fact.

Thanks! This one took me the greater part of the day to complete.

@@NSXavier997 it's obvious you have done many of these before. I have a 19 MDX and am waiting for a recall inspection on the rod bearing. Is it possible to remove the pan and access the crank and rods without dropping the entire engine? How else can they actually inspect it besides "listening" to it...?

I removed the factory ACC socket on the passengers lower kick panel and installed a USB-C bulkhead connector in its place. Turned out pretty clean