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When not adding wiring inside, connect up all the same battery cables that were there before. Don't omit any of them.

Yes, you want the LI-BIM for lithium, since the other models may activate the chassis battery charge mode without a charge present (i.e. drain the lithium battery). The boost switch mod is necessary for the boost switch to work (force it to connect without engine running). It's not necessary for alternator charging or chassis battery charging.

It sounds like your battery monitor is programmed for a AGM battery where at 50% you are basically fully discharged and doing damage to the battery. you need to reprogram it for a lithium profile. We alarm at 20% and drop out the relay at 15% and reset the alarm once charged back up to 30-40%

Yes, it is.

This video only applies to G/K models and not the L models (which have a different lithium battery). This is a video that provides an example of how to remove the original AGM batteries on non-L models, so that they can be replaced with Battleborn Lithium batteries for more capacity. You could also replace the AGM batteries with new AGM batteries using mostly the same technique.

It will mostly work with the Lithium batteries without modification. There is however available a low cost modification (CBP) to the converter to force it to stay in the higher voltage mode for faster charging, this is available on stg.net website.

Are the cables long enough to drop the battery on the floor then disconnect the cables?

@@p-dub22 yes, mine from the right side were long enough and the left side a little shorter so I just put in the bottom 2 pieces of 2x12 wood and that was more than enough, remember each battery weighs about 62 pounds, so to put it back I did needed an extra hand to lifted!

@@TheSilviomorraz looks like you have to pull the battery forward, then it can drop?

I don't think you can just drop the batteries as there is a lip on the battery tray that supports it. You have to slide it out as shown. I have a different tray design where you can remove the screws then drop the battery straight down.

Did you do the swap?

Their engineers decided against powering the control panel from the boiler.

@@ScottGriepentrog thanks for info wish they had told me that lol anyway its up and running now thanks for help

See https//tinyurl.com/TravatoLithium for details.

just happened to catch your 10-month-old post. I believe you are supposed to disconnect the panels to avoid the voltage to continue to the controller without the battery. So just cover up the panels above with a towel or some cardboard cover while you're switching the batteries. I'm only here to see if anyone else has done this. My AGMs are still going strong but when they start weakening I'll change them. I wouldn't use battle-borns as there are many LiFePO4 batteries like Power Queen or Ampere Time that are literally a fraction of the price of BB's. I already have them in a home solar system and love them

You want to have the negative of all batteries tied together, and then a cable from one of the negatives to the battery side of the shunt. Nothing else touches the battery negative, so the ZAMP ground wire and the chassis ground connection have to be put on the other side of the shunt. That way all power in/out of the batteries goes through the shunt and it can accurately monitor the charge level. Generally you want to use a relatively short cable, and it needs to be the same gauge or better as the rest of the battery connections. The original connections are all 1 gauge, so you can use a 1ga jumper or whatever you have handy that is larger. If you've upgraded to an inverter, you'll need to replace all the cabling with 1/0 gauge. Also: the shunt cannot be left out in the open where it can get wet, so you have to put it in a sealed box or run the cables through the floor and put it in side. And if you put it in a box underneath, the bluetooth signal will be so weak that you probably can't talk to it with the victron connect app from inside the rig. So if you're going to go underneath in a box to avoid putting thick cables through the floor, get the BMV-712 instead of the SmartShunt and put the display head inside. If you put the cables through the floor, you can use the SmartShunt, although I strongly recommend only using the SmartShunt with a GX controller, as you have no relay control and no alarm.

It's a 2 relay board that I put custom firmware in. I haven't started selling it yet, but will in a few months.

I reprogrammed the javascript files that control what is on the display. I'm working on some improvements to the entire display including a better battery monitor page, and when completed and I have an easy to install method I'll release that with instructions.

@@ScottGriepentrog Hi Scott, thank you for the video. It has been of great help. I have a house battery and a starter battery and I have two shunts attached to each battery. I want to see two smart shunts' values on the main screen. Can you make a GUI to do so? Thank you. Regards

You mean price for the cerbo & touch screen (~$500) or price for an entire lithium & victron system etc installed (~$7000-9000)?

@@ScottGriepentrog just the new equipment

When I was doing this video, my goal was to put in a high capacity inverter which would require an upgrade to 1/0 cabling. Otherwise without the inverter, you can stick with the original 1 gauge cabling. The solar doesn't require a cabling upgrade. The lithium batteries are half the weight of the original AGM batteries.

It is no problem for the battery to get wet while driving because it is sealed. Also battleborn has a heated model that prevents the problem with not being able to charge when too cold.

@@ScottGriepentrog You know what temperature the BB shuts down when cold or hot?

@@Pinky121971 27F

Depends on if you get the heated model. Without the heater, the power can be used but not recharged below about 27 F.

You can contact Truma through their website to order it. It's called a back cover for the truma combi control panel - sorry I don't have a part number. They can ship them out from their Elkhart Indiana facility.

Swaping two AGM's at 50ah usable (100 total) for two BB's at 100ah usable (200 total) gives you twice the battery capacity, and thus longer runtime, but it's also longer lifetime on the batteries without the worries of keeping them from discharging too deeply and shortening their life as with AGM. You can just swap the batteries and make no other changes, but you can also add or upgrade an inverter for higher wattage capability. I usually install a Victron 3000 inverter which allows you to run all of your appliances, even the air conditioner. For more details see stg.net/docs.html

The advantage of the Cerbo GX is that everything is to connected to it, and you have ONE cable running to the remote display--instead of multiple cables & wires, as with the Color Control GX.

Have you been able to install your Seelevel sensors since your video? Do you know if Seelevel had a sensor that works to monitor LP tanks?

I don't think that would help, at least not much. Height would affect the priming the most, while horizontal length should affect it very little. It's probably worth a try though.

@@ScottGriepentrog I was wondering if the pump inlet could be coupled directly to the drain.

@@tomkirkgaard247 I was planning on trying that but haven't yet. I mean yes you can couple the two connectors, but you would have to have a high water level in the shower basin, plus patience and maybe luck, and a backup plan in case.

No, it's a modification I specifically wanted to change the range of the bit. Upgrade was the wrong word.

It looks like a more robust flexshaft. Overall, how would you grade the WhittleCNC? i am trying to decide if I should buy it. Thanks.

+layangman one of the changes was a larger bushing to reduce play on y. I think that Whittle CNC has some unique features in how the frame works - instead of a flat bed. I've been very happy with it. It's not equivalent to a pricier commercial model, but it is a good value.

+layangman oh, and the flexshaft was one I chose to replace the original that failed when I had a bit overheat due to my mistake, and also to give me some additional adjustment vertically.

+layangman No, it's strictly something I wanted in order to carve below the frame instead of above it.

+layangman Yes, you need either slower feed rate or multiple passes to cut a significant depth. The default depth per pass on easel for plywood is .028" (~.7mm) which I've also been using on red oak without issue. I haven't tested to see how fast/deep I can go yet. Although, I think the limiting factor is more using a dremel as a power source than the flex shaft. The flex shaft allows for a lighter weight carriage, since it doesn't have to hold up the motor.

+Scott Griepentrog Thanks for the prompt reply.

+layangman You need multiple passes, but not due to the flex shaft. The lighter weight carriage on this unit means that you want to do very shallow and/or slow cuts to keep the head from "dragging" and the cut becoming skewed.

+Philip Mark It's actually super easy - easel.inventables.com is just like google docs, except that you draw your shapes/text/import whatever on top of the surface, and then set the depth. It shows you a 3d rendering of the result as you work with it. You have to set a few extra values such as the dimension of the bit you're going to use, but then you just download the gcode and upload it to the cnc. I'll do a full run through video of the entire process when I get a chance and post it.

+Philip Mark And here is a link to the easel drawing I used in the video: easel.inventables.com/projects/u1dwDmAsFISak8WswjdweA

+Philip Mark I'm very impressed, especially at the low cost and flexibility of it. The installation instructions need to be improved for less technical customers, but that will come. I'm using the Whittle CNC controller in Chrome that is available on the website, and I generated g-code from easel. I've got the laser working now as well - at only .125W it's slow, but does exactly what I need for labelling parts.

+Scott Griepentrog awesome, thank you for replying and posting this video.

+Philip Mark THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!