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These seem to be popular. Although expensive up front they eliminate the need to keep changing the anode. However, you may also have an additional cost to install a power supply if there is not one nearby. My only reservation about this is if the power supply failed for a long period of time and you didn't realize it. I'm also curious if these anodes would cause the same mineral deposits to accumulate at the bottom of the tank like I found in my short video here ruclips.net/user/shortsjSCLh8NxhCw. They probably do.

Hey, you seem like someone who knows about this kind of thing! Really appreciate your input. 1) The car is 10 miles away, it's 8° outside, and my garage doesn't have room for a car. Also, this part of the exhaust is after the split, so it probably has the lowest pressure in the system. The repair is also holding up right now. 2) I just used material that I had. 3) The 20 gauge that I used for the last two holes probably matches the original pipe gauge. You're right that the stainless roll is kind of thin. I just had it and it seemed easy to wrap around. 4. Worm gear clamps - great idea! I'll consider those next time. 5. Something else for heating it? Like a torch? I had the heat gun and it did help to set the cement. Disclaimer: I don't always know what I'm doing! I just see a problem and try to fix it with what I have and what I know. The great thing about posting something like this is that you can get great help from people like yourself. You're the best!

@@DIYWithJC I do not know what the directions say on the sealing material you are using. Some materials say the heat from the exhaust is enough to hardened it. Some need more. I AM NOT SAYING to use a propane torch if you need more heat because I do not want to be responsible for somebody putting heat on a gas line or fuel tank. But I have heard of people using propane torches (and common sense) as to not cause fires and explosions. When I watched your video it seems you are new to doing things like this. I use stuff (scrap) laying around to fix stuff too, but if the scrap I have is not suitable, I do not use it just because I have it, I get something else that is suitable. I do not fix things for entertainment or fun. I fix things only because I have to, and I fix them to last because I do not want to be fixing the same thing multiple times :( . And I fix things as cheaply as possible. I imaging you can fix at any temperature as long as the directions on the sealing goop you are using do not have instructions otherwise. For this kind of thing you do not need a garage, I have fixed a lot of things in the rain/snow/mud/below 0, on driveways/parking lots/streets/fields, whatever the urgency demanded. So if you want to wait to when/if your repairs fail, suggest you fix it more robustly next time. By the way, I am not a mechanic, just a guy that fixes what he can to save money, and have done so for many years. Best Wishes.

@tommak6516 Trust me, it's not JUST for entertainment, but if it can be that too then why not? Also, I do what I have to, rain or shine, but I'm not going to take it apart in the cold if I don't need to. As far as this repair, I'll see how long it lasts and learn from it. And you are right, I'm not fixing exhausts every day. This one lasted 14 years since I've had the car and now it needs a little attention. Again, your pipe clamp idea is good and I'll use those if I need to next time. Thanks!

It seems that the reinforcement is there to protect the hickory handle for the times when you miss the nail. Looks like it ends on the shaft where you see it. This hammer is sold as an American hickory handle hammer that has the benefit of absorbing vibration. So it makes sense that the length of the shaft would be mostly wood. BTW, you made me go out to the garage in the freezing cold to check the hammer! Haha, it's all good.

I'm not sure it makes much difference either. Will see actual results in a year or so when I can compare both kinds.

Great to hear.

Thanks for watching!

Glad you found it helpful.

I hear ya - nothing beats instructions!

I think it depends on where you live...

@@DIYWithJC I have three Levoits-600S, 300S, and Core Mini. I also have three Dreo Max-Ss with the aforementioned being the most recent purchases. I like your video and in my opinion a good aftermarket filter will work just fine. Nit picking over .0000001% OEM vs .0000002% aftermarket particulate capture is ridiculous. Aftermarkets will suffice for me. I saw where Levoit had run into some controversy regarding their filters being "True HEPA" and people were throwing their Levoits in the trash...doesn't make sense to me. They're good machines. I"m keeping mine.

Yeah, with the kind of poor access you have to your water heater that's probably your best option.

Temporarily remove the power vent housing to gain working space. Remove the plastic cover surrounding the nut so that your socket can fit. On some brands, there is insulation that you can cut out with a utility knife - cut along the outside of the hole opening and you might be able to re-use the insulation. Or just dig it in pieces using a screwdriver if you don't care about re-using it.

Hmm, I probably just lifted it out with a screwdriver. I don't remember it being hard to get out. Perhaps yours has some glue on it?

Thanks! Where I'm from, a geyser usually refers to an old guy!

@DIYWithJC that we are also called, indeed! An old geyser!! 🤣

Good points. The socket was included with one of the anodes and is an 8-sided one. It's a little beefier than standard sockets. It's probably not made for impact wrenches but did the job this time. And you are right, like I did in the video, I installed the new rod with a hand wrench.

Great point! That's something I learned too. However, there is also a risk. I did that one time and caused the valve to leak so that it had to be replaced. Now I'm very cautious and gently ease any stuck valves.

@@DIYWithJC Leaks shouldn't happen if valves are worked once a year. BTW thanks for your video.

That's like the old expression says, "if it's not broken, don''t fix it!" I hope you get more years of good use out if your tank.

It says total carbs 18g. But then 3 egg whites + 1 egg + quarter cup of butter may add a little more.

Haha! Glad you found it useful.

Good idea.

Thanks for the warning. I may go with the OEM part next time - apparently not much difference in price, or perhaps try the electric ones and have done with it.

You're welcome! It should work for that, but I didn't try that yet.

What is it that you don't like about it?

Trash another grift

I guess if you really knew your stuff you wouldn't be watching some other guy trying to figure it out. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. It all worked out in the end.

Interesting question! It's going to have a little rumble though whatever table you put it on. The material you cut would make noise too. Some people have treadmills in their apartments. It's probably less noisy or similar to a treadmill if people live below you. I can't imagine they wouldn't hear it. Probably not good to use after midnight!

Sorry, I don't have a list of error codes. I don't even have the manual for this. In my experience, the error codes happened when I didn't operate according to the way it was designed. And it took me a while to figure things out. You are better off contacting the seller for support.

I don't think I did and don't even know if I have any brush attachments. I only tried different nozzles, but I have cleaned the soffits and fascias where they were reachable, but just used pressure.

I think that's a good idea, especially if you are a professional doing this for someone else. This one is actually not that old and still seems in good condition.

Right, I'm actually going to check it soon when I look inside the tank with a camera scope. I want to see what the tank looks like on the inside and on the bottom.

It's pronounced veeyoowcko.

Usually I don't. However, like I showed in the video, I sometimes take off the hopper and wash that with soap and water. The catcher also gets washed the same way and the casing just gets wiped. The rest just gets an occasional clean with the brush attached to the end of the scoop. You just have to keep the platform clean of any dropped coffee grounds so that the catcher will seat properly and hold down the safety switch that allows the grinder to turn on.

What does that mean and why is it important?

Well, it's like you don't wait till your brake pads get down to the metal before changing them. And if you already have the new parts why not just change them. But you're right, if you can monitor the condition of the rods and guess how long they will stay effective, then you could just leave them in.

@@DIYWithJC got you. of course, brake pads are a totally different thing. The companies should give us a glass or something to see and check so we don't have to remove it to check. very absurd.

@@HeydaCarreras It's all about the money I guess. To add that window on a pressure vessel would need a seal as well as the glass and it would add labor cost. At least these units don't have the rods covered with insulation like some I've seen on RUclips.

@@DIYWithJC yes. mine is A.O. smith and easy to get to. The drain valve is plastic, what about replace that for a metal one? The water heater never been flash, no anode rod, it has like 4 years. I never tested the pressure valve either.

You mean the ripples on a bead of caulk? I try to hold the nozzle at one angle (45deg?), keep the caulk flowing from the tube at a constant amount and keep the tip moving. I've done this in a former life as part of a job and honestly wasn't that good at it. Having good caulk that flows easily, and a good gun that doesn't take too much effort, really help too. I was pleasantly surprised by the gun and the caulk that I used. But also, the cheap little multi-tool I used helps to clean any imperfections after the fact. I never had much success with the finger method. I have another multi-tool being sent that I'll be testing soon. It's a bit more money and comes with some tips. I'll be testing that in another video. Another point: Before putting down a bead, it's good to practice the motion in the air and know where you'll start and end the bead and make sure there are no obstructions in your path. Hope that helps.

Comes in a 10 oz tube from Amazon. You can do it!

Well, if I didn't have the impact wrench, or it hadn't worked for me, I would probably have been trying some of those things too. Changing the plastic drain valve for brass is a great idea.

I have never understood why they don't plumb the drain into the waste line. You are supposed to flush it, why is it not hooked up so you can?

@@robertsmith2956 Don't think that's impossible, but would you be willing to pay for that?

@@DIYWithJC Who wouldn't. You are talking about a few feet of pvc pipe. even under biden that is less than $10.

@@robertsmith2956 But where would you hook up your pipe to? I don't have a drain that close. So for me this isn't an issue for something I might remember to do once a year.

It doesn't seem to be that delicate and the impact wrench is only giving it tiny little impacts. The advantage seems to be that it doesn't turn the tank. I've seen other videos of people putting straps on the tank to prevent turning. I also imagine that most of the force is dissipated by the water in the tank. If I didn't have the impact wrench then I would have used a bar.

Impact wrench is fine. The top fitting is plenty strong enough to take the force.

Wasn't aware of that. However, the more expensive of the two was offered and installed by the local gas utility company. The cheaper one was bought at the box store.

@@DIYWithJC ..kinda what I'm saying....hard for the DIY'er to buy and self install the Pro unit. Seems normal folks can only buy the Performance model with some less-costly components...plastic drain valve.....cheaper electric heating element, etc....... availabe from the box stores for anyone to purchase

@@TheWilferch Right, that seems to be how the manufacturers keep both camps happy.

I'm planning to open it back up and go in with a camera probe to make sure it doesn't soon. Thanks for the confirmation.

@@DIYWithJC ....👍

Good idea, but I think I tried and was having a hard time. What's a pick tool?

Are you from NZ?! That's the only place I could see where WOF means Warrant Of Fitness. This is the US and the standards are not that high here. This car just passed an inspection for another year, even with the exhaust like that and whatever rust you are seeing that would fail your WOF.

The Dong Cheng actually worked pretty good once I turned it up on high. You're right about the wiring - but it wasn't me who did it!

Will the plain steel will reduce the effectiveness of the anodes? Is it diluting the protection? Or, is that just by a negligible amount? These are questions that come to mind. I don't think the tape will affect electrical contact with the tank. In my mind the tape is neither an insulation nor a seal. It's just there to help get the tapered threads solidly engaged with each other. There should be be multiple points of metal to metal contact if the threads are tight.

@@DIYWithJC The plain steel has no more effect than equivalent area of inner surface of the metal tank.

​@@DIYWithJC FYI from a retired thread head: Tapered Pipe threads (NPT) seat on the middle/straight flanks of the sawtooth thread form. At that point the roots (valleys)and crests (points) of both internal AND external are not creating a metal to metal seal, but toleranced to leave a void between roots and crests The Teflon tape (or pipe dope) is absolutely necessary to fill that gap & ensure root/crest sealing. Only NPSF threads used in fuel systems are toleranced tight enough (<0.001") to seal at the crest/root area. F is for Fuel- which would eat pipe dope away. The NPSF are mostly used in aerospace = big $

@@dhgmllcshea5038 That's interesting. I thought that there was some deformation of the taper that would cause metal to metal contact all around. But are you saying that the contact is not around the entire circumference therefore requiring tape or pipe dope to fill the voids? If that's the case then it makes sense that you need the tape.

@@DIYWithJCFirst, I forgot to say Thank You for your video. Second, yes- but while there are some "roundness" issues around the circumference that the tape/sealant will help with, I was pointing out that the basic thread form "triangles" are not sharp points that match perfectly at the OD and ID of the threads. There is one spiral leak path at the ID and one at the OD of the threads because the (not quite) sharp points of the thread do not EXACTLY match the not quite sharp valleys that they engage. If you google NPT Threads toy will see diagrams of the mating threads that make this clearer.

Thank you my friend.

Fraid not. The last blower motor resistor I changed was on a Ford Explorer and that was somewhere around the glove box. Good luck finding it!

Agreed! Japan drives on the left like the UK but I still have trouble when switching sides - just like switching sawing directions. Thanks for the observation.

... at least every household that does a little woodworking!