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I like the rounding tool. Clever

I’m with you on lots of coolant when knurling makes for a much smarter result. Have you tried a clamp knurling tool? I use one on my Myford to reduce the stress on the headstock bearings. 😀 get well soon! I’m enjoying watching your progress.

What do you do for a living? Not an engineer for sure!!

Lots of inventive setups in this one 😀thanks for sharing.

It was a nightmare of a job! Did mine about a month ago, I hate castings as getting a datum is guesswork! Like you it came good in the end. I did it a diffent way and used the bore as a reference, I pushed a piece of 1" dowel into the bore and used the centres to align things

Very interesting. Nice work sir

Very nice project. Nice work sir

Nice! 🙂

Looks like it's coming along nicely. I've watched quite a few Quorn builds, they're always fascinating.

I've been catching up on your Quorn build videos over the last 3 days. It's a great series. I'm subscribed and in for the long haul if you continue to post videos on this project. It's something I aspire to build in future. I've been put off by reading about how difficult a project this is but so far, it has been reasonably straightforward as long as one is meticulous. You could save yourself a lot of time on the handles by buying threaded steel balls off ebay (the cheap chinese ones not the ones made from ball bearing material) and building them in three pieces. It would make machining and workholding a lot easier.

I Know it's a bit late now, but what I would have done is drilled and reamed the holes for the cotters all the way through the jig and made a sacrificial spacer from the cotter stock to go between the two pieces. The 3 pieces (cotter stock + spacer) can then be bolted in at both ends of the jig with a stud passing through. It might not be necessary, but I would consider using superglue on the cotter stock to reduce the chances of it rotating during the boring operation. There are many ways to skin a cat but IMO, this seems to be option with the least risk of screwing up unless I am missing something obvious.

Dude, roughly 40mins in all we see is a black screen.

Very nice work sir

I bought a Quorn from the local car boot, £5. No idea what it was, but it looked good. It’s missing the spindle and motor assy. But now I know it’s worth completing. The workmanship is excellent, so must have been from a house clearance of a skilled engineer.

I'm thoroughly enjoying the videos! I am toying with the idea of building this kit. I need one! I need one because I haven't got one! 😉

Great to see you back on the Quorn!

Nice bit of progress 😀

Congratulations that to me appeared a rather complex and awkward part that you manuf: extremely well .The whole project is coming along well, looking forward to the next chapters Thank you

Very nice result, thanks for sharing!

Is the Quorn Mk3 on hold? (chuckle) I just ordered the Hemingway basic graduating tool over sourcing the Harold Hall ratcheting version pieces parts. Along with that I got the Spherical turning tool kit, and Universal pillar tool and drill kit. I've had my Quorn castings for nearly 20 years. In the States I got the Martin Models version but see that Hemingway provides all the pieces parts in their kits which is most convenient and worth the price for me. I am envious that you got the Quorn column with the helix already machined. I'm drawing up plans for a reversing right angle drive for my dividing head to connect to the lead screw of my mill just for cutting the helix. For the gear trains I need I have the bom done for the shaper gear cutting attachment by Base Circle... Making tools to make tools to make tools. It's a vicious cycle for the penny pincher lol. Keep up the Great work and narratives. Thank you.

Thank you for your video on this kit. Its been a big help.

Nicely done. Price of simple mild steel stock is terrible. Especially considering it's only pennies as scrap.

A bit of an effort, but a worthy-looking tool 👍

I'm envious of your box parallel. And since I've had Prof. Chaddocks Quorn book for many years, I'm looking forward to watching your build series. Obviously I'm far too late for much of this to be of any use on your own Quorn castings, but they could still be useful at some other time or to others. Since the loads are so light when single point boring with a boring head, only the center set screw is required to lock the slide after an adjustment. My Criterion heads were bought before they started doing so, but the new ones are even engraved with the word lock at that center set screws position and the instructions point out it's the only one to be used. The other two are only meant for the very rare gib adjustments. And to get the fine movement a boring head requires, they really shouldn't be used as an extra locking means once they are correctly adjusted. For accurate sized bores, what I learned to do is set up a fine division dial indicator against the boring heads slide for the last few cuts to reach the target size since the dial divisions on the head are a bit coarse. The indicator does need to be set as close possible to 90 degrees to that slide so the measured movement will be accurate of course. And since the indicator will only measure the slides actual movement, it works much like an analog version of a dro and any backlash can be ignored. Your method did work out quite well. Even though he had his own Tom Senior vertical mill as well as boring heads, George Thomas in his book The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual specifically designed a between centers boring bar of an unusual but well thought out assembly for his own set of Quorn castings. I've found between centers boring to be easier and in some ways more dependable and accurate than a boring head since there's no chance of any tapered bores. And supported at both ends there's much less deflection. You also have multiple choices of power feed rates on the lathe. While his was meant for use on a Myford Super 7, his design would of course work on any lathe, and in my opinion worth the cost of the book for that alone. I believe your in the UK, so this would be the best place to obtain it. www.teepublishing.co.uk/books/in-your-workshop/model-engineers-workshop-manual/ It's an extremely good book and again well worth it's price. Most of his designs were meant to be used on or for that Myford lathe and yours is quite a bit larger. But there's still a great deal of very useful and helpful information in it. It's one I own that if it was ever lost, I'd immediately replace it.

All caught up now. Looking forward to the third half 😄.

Like you, I have respect for the pioneers who both recognized the needs for standards and laid out sensible schemes. Granted, there were conflicts along the way, but there had to be a beginning. I’m fascinated with the evolution of machine tapers, myself - there’s a lot of history there. 🧐

Enjoying the series. 👍

I’ve made felt washers on laser cutter. Makes a really neat job 😀

Nice work on the long 3/8” hole. It’s a right faff. I found out slightly too late on New Year’s Eve that my milling machine was not quite tall enough to take a standard length 9.1mm drill. Thankfully Grandad’s biscuit tin of old drills produced a sharp enough spare drill the right size which got shortened to fit so I could drill the block. Finished up setting the block up in the lathe though to ream the hole - from each end as per the destructions - much faffing and mumbling required. I hadn’t thought of leaving the rib oversize for the tool holder as you did. It makes a lot of sense. Yours looks a nice job - excellent finish.

Why are you calling material stock? It's a horrible American term.

That is way too nice to only use once in a blue moon.

Nice job 😀

Scotchbrite is the order of the day on surface rust.

When i graduated my quorn i couldnt be bothered to finish my original Hemingway graduater kit, so i used a 1" x 10 thou thick slitting saw to do the graduations, worked a treat, not that I think you should do the same and you might have imspired me to finish mine if i can remember where I put it.

Interesting fact there is a building with a wall outside the has measurement standards of 1" 1 foot and one yard it slips my mine where it is the legend is crafts people could come and make standards from them. The last part my be made up , enjoying the series. Now crack on

Nice one good vid great explanation top job can't wait to see the rest

I had same problem on my pinnacle jhead bench top turns out as I entered the cut the mill flexed at the start then relaxed during the cut took me for ever to sus it out

I've realised that I'm nowhere near tooled-up enough to attempt anything as complex as a tool grinder.😔

Love the videos as I'm going to build the grinder. Did you happen to check if Hemmingway minded showing the prints. I would assume them to be copyrighted.

I’m just finishing my HK1215 graduating tool kit which arrived on Christmas Day. Lovely device, but right on the limit of my machining abilities. But it cut test graduations today which I’m fairly happy with. I’m looking forward to see how you progress with the kit.

I still can't decide if I have the skills and/or smarts to build this

So pleased you're doing this series. This project is on my list, I've done a few of Hemingway's kits. Cheers, subscribed! Jim

I noticed you started with tiny cuts. Would it not be better to start with a fairly deep cut to get the crust off the casting? The CCMT inserts that you have seem happier with big cuts, at least on my machine.

the speech is way too quiet

PS if you retract the boring head at the same feed rate as you go in you dont get a spiral and you take a spring pass at the same time, which can give a more parallel bore especially on deep holes were the bar will bend as it goes further in.

It would save a lot of thought if you start the two clamps as one over length piece, put it in the jig do the curved section then part into two in the middle of the curve section and then trim the other ends to the required lenghts. Way easier!

Excellent Badger. Don't forget the man who never made a cockup never made anything, eh. 😉

Hemmingway has done a BEAUTIFUL job with this kit! Mine came from "Model Engineering Services" in a banded, scrap wood box in 1979. It took me forever to build it and I loved every minute of it. I'll enjoy reliving the build through your videos. Cheers, F.C.

Enjoying this and learning a lot. You possibly already realise, but the reason why the rear bar was indicating low on the left hand side of the casting is because the bore through the casting was very slightly larger than the front allowing the bar to hang down slightly under gravity. This will correct itself when both castings support the bars. Keep making videos, I have plans to make one in the next year or two.

Always enjoy a good Quorn build series. I've seen a few and learn from all of them. Have the book and read it, but I think I'm probably a thousand hours of practice away from attempting it for now (having only recently acquired a milling machine). Looks like you're going along quite well, look forward to more videos.