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Bill's Garage
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Добавлен 14 фев 2021
I've been a mechanic my entire life, and I play in my garage for fun. Cars. motorcycles, boats, trailers, lawn equipment, airplane parts, and more. There's no telling what I'll be working on at any given time, but there will always be a common theme - I do everything the hard way, and I will go out of my way to try and do it the way that everyone says can't be done because there's no fun in doing things the same way as everyone else.
Want to switch your Mustang II from Ghia windows to Coupe windows? Here's what you need to know!
I can't stand the little opera windows on the Mustang II Ghia, so I'm removing mine and replacing them with the larger windows from a Coupe. I'm stripping the vinyl top off of the car because it's ugly and causes rust, but doing this exposes the plastic inserts that make up the difference between the smaller Ghia windows and the larger Coupe-sized window opening, so the smaller windows (and inserts) have to go. I'll post another video soon letting you know where I got these (and other) hard to find parts.
Просмотров: 73
Видео
I'm Replacing My 1978 Mustang II Wiring Harness
Просмотров 964 месяца назад
My wiring harness is pretty degraded, as can be expected of any car this old, but I have plans to install a lot of new electrical components such as fuel injection, LED lighting, electronic gauges, and a touch-screen monitor, so I purchased a new wiring harness in order to help avoid problems. There are a ton of options out there for just about any car on the road, but I chose one from Johnny L...
MSD Distributer Spring Problems
Просмотров 1654 месяца назад
I filmed these clips last year but forgot about them. I had encountered a problem with my MSD distributor when running my engine on the stand, and it turned out that the advance springs were worn out.
Why the heck would anyone build a Mustang II???
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.5 месяцев назад
In this video, I talk about why I chose to build a Mustang II, and I give my opinion on a lot of the things that you tend to hear about them, like that they're small, they're Pinto-based, they were unpopular, they were slow, everybody hates them, etc. Most of that is b.s., but it's a (mostly) free country, and everyone is entitled to their opinion, so I'm giving mine.
I cut open the oil filter from my SBF break-in run to inspect the element
Просмотров 3856 месяцев назад
I cut open the oil filter that was installed on my engine when I did the break-in run to inspect the metal particles inside. I wanted to make sure there weren't too many particles, and that they weren't big enough to cause concern. This is a task that is regularly performed on aviation engines but is much less common on automotive engines.
I'm installing a hyd clutch in my Mustang II with a MalWood pedal and a Tilton throwout bearing
Просмотров 6117 месяцев назад
I'm using a @MalwoodUSA under-dash hydraulic clutch pedal kit and a @TiltonEngineering 6000 series hydraulic release bearing to actuate the clutch in my 1978 Mustang II. This is a very oddball combination, with an early 5-bolt 289 being mated to a brand new Tremec TKX transmission and installing them in a Mustang II. Due to a variety of challenges, the hydraulic setup was the best solution for ...
Distributor Options for your SBF
Просмотров 9508 месяцев назад
I get a lot of questions about SBF distributors, so I put together this video describing three different options - points, electronic, and dual sync fuel injection trigger. There's no universal answer as to which is best because all have pros and cons. The best answer for you depends entirely on your specific application.
1978 Mustang II Custom Dash Panel
Просмотров 4188 месяцев назад
I wanted to upgrade the dash panel for my 1978 Mustang II, so I purchased a set of Autometer gauges and modified the factory panel. Not only does it look cooler now, but Autometer gauges are extremely reliable, and the Autometer harness makes wiring them up relatively easy. I can't wait to put it in the car! @AutoMeterTech www.autometer.com
I Built a DIY Engine Run Stand so that I could break in my SBF engine.
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.8 месяцев назад
There are a lot of good reasons to use an engine run stand to break in and tune your engine before you put it in your car. However, most are really expensive and quite large, so I decided to build my own. Most of the components that I used were lying around in my garage anyway, and I made it easy to disassemble so that it won't take up a bunch of room when not being used. My total cost was arou...
I Installed a Powermaster Mastertorque 9603 Starter on my SBF
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.8 месяцев назад
I've never had a problem running stock starters, but for this build I decided to try a @powermasterperformance Mastertorque 9603 starter. It's smaller, lighter, and has more torque than the stock starter, I just hope it turns out to be as reliable as the stock starter!
Installing a McLeod RST Street Twin Clutch Kit behind my SBF
Просмотров 9719 месяцев назад
I've chosen to use a @McLeodRacingClutches P/N MCL-6913-07 RST Street Twin Clutch Kit to transmit power to my Tremec TKX transmission, and mounted it to an @CenterforceClutches 700225 billet steel 157-tooth flywheel. I recommend using an @RAMClutches billet steel alignment tool when installing a dual disc clutch; I used the 03-048, which has the same 1-1/8" 26-spline dimensions as my transmissi...
Aligning my SBF Quicktime Bellhousing for use with a Tremec TKX Transmission
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Bellhousing alignment isn't really that critical for most stock applications, but can be important when dealing with aftermarket transmissions. I'm installing a Tremec TKX transmission behind my SBF, and Tremec requires the bellhousing opening to be aligned within 0.005" of the crankshaft centerline. This can be accomplished by using a dial indicator to determine the alignment, and then correct...
Priming my SBF Oil System
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Priming the oil system is an important step in preparing the engine for its first start. It's easy to do, and can go a long way towards easing your mind that the oil will flow as expected when the engine is running. If you've ever seen videos of people running the engine with the valve covers off so that they can observe the oil flow (and making a smoky mess), they're doing it wrong - if the en...
Installing a CVF Racing Wraptor Serpentine Kit on my SBF
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.9 месяцев назад
I decided to upgrade my SBF from 1960s and 1970s era accessories to more modern components with a serpentine belt setup. I looked at dozens of different options, but ended up selecting the @CVF_RACING Wraptor kit (SKU 302-WRAPTOR-AC). My kit options included the C-3 ceramic coat finish, 3-bolt damper pulley, driver's side lower radiator hose, hydroboost pump with remote reservoir, and a 140 Amp...
Measuring Piston to Valve Clearance on my SBF
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.10 месяцев назад
In this video, I demonstrate the two primary methods for checking piston to valve clearance - clay impression and modelling clay. The flat tappet cam that I had been running previously had similar maximum lift to the hydraulic roller cam currently installed, but the old pistons had much smaller valve reliefs than the Mahle pistons and there was no clearance issue with that arrangement, so I was...
Measuring for Correct Pushrod Length in my SBF
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.10 месяцев назад
Measuring for Correct Pushrod Length in my SBF
SBF Cylinder Head Options - 289/302 vs 351W vs AFR
Просмотров 11 тыс.10 месяцев назад
SBF Cylinder Head Options - 289/302 vs 351W vs AFR
Piston & Connecting Rod Orientation
Просмотров 11 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Piston & Connecting Rod Orientation
Installing Piston Rings on my Mahle Pistons
Просмотров 25311 месяцев назад
Installing Piston Rings on my Mahle Pistons
Using a Ring Filer on my Mahle Rings
Просмотров 5311 месяцев назад
Using a Ring Filer on my Mahle Rings
Should you install a main girdle on your SBF?
Просмотров 20 тыс.Год назад
Should you install a main girdle on your SBF?
But the internet says that you can't stroke a 289!
Просмотров 48 тыс.Год назад
But the internet says that you can't stroke a 289!
I built my 334 from my 289 . Didn't even need to clearance the bores for the rods. I used a kit from CNC Motorsports.
nice!
Thanks!
I'm pretty sure your real name is charlie..and having the three ladies perform"Very hazardous duties"is whats really going on..(positive comment number 3)
Good morning Angels...😂🤣
People that say a girdle are useless never put a piece of IKEA furniture together much less an engine
🤣😂
OLÁ Bils 15/08/24 Para motores normais é possível um concerto mais preciso e sem mexer nos rebaixes para válvulas no TOP do pistão. Vai requerer uma retificadora com conhecimentos melhores de geometria. Nada sugiro por que se for mal executado o normal seria me culpar. Roberto Udo Krapf
Thanks for watching!
What kind of engine cradle is that? looks like its on backwards?
It's from Stumpy's Fabworks - same guy who built my subframe connectors and traction bars. It's installed in the correct orientation. Thanks for watching!
Old ED Smith says, whatever you do with the sbf. Torque the mains on before you bore and hone it, this fellow below, has the right idea, i think, by enlargeing the bolts to 1 half inch bolt holes, and use studs . The reason for all this is, the sbf block is not very ridged and has been found to move around a lot, also use a torque plate when honing. Hope this helps.
Sound advice, thanks for watchng!
Duct Tape and 550 cord is what I have always used to keep my engines bottom end secured. It never fails.
I have plenty of both as a backup!
What wiring harness did you use and where can we buy it?
I bought it from Johnny Law Motors: www.johnnylawmotors.com/mi/Avh264fX/1974-1978-mustang-ii-wire-harness-upgrade-kit-fits-painless-complete-terminal
What pistons are thouse and is the valve 2.02 reason i ask i need a piston i know that clears with world product 64cc 2.02 valve
They are Mahle pistons. I bought them as part of my Eagle B14003030 347ci rotating assembly.
druaspark I duraspark II then switched to tfi thin foil ignition.
I used Duraspark for a long time, but MSD is my favorite. Thanks for watching!
Heat issues the V8 would make the battery explode . They had V8 south of the boarder do to not having emission, the catalytic converters were to blame
I've never heard of that being a problem, but my battery is in the trunk, so that wouldn't be an issue for me.
Im working on my very first build with zero background in mechanics so this was very helpful for my journey. thanks!
I'm glad to hear you found it helpful! I checked out your page, looks like you're off to a great start on your project.
I need a neighbor like you bro
Same!
rad
Thanks!
dude where are you located? I have a snake pit im working on too! I don't know why but I'm tinkering with it.
On the East coast of Florida near Cocoa/Melbourne.
proper demonstration
Thanks for watching!
I tried installing a PowerMaster starter on my 74 Corvette with a small block Chevy and could never get it to work right. I'm using a points setup so I had to get a wire with a diode (not supplied) The problem is, that sometimes it would work and some times it wouldn't. I also had to do some modifications, shims, diode wire etc.. that I never had to do with my OEM starter. I hated the PM starter, so as a result I got a new OEM starter and have never had a problem since. For the price they are charging for these things, you shouldn't have to modify anything.... NEVER AGAIN!!
Yeah, that sounds like a real hassle, I probably wouldn't want to deal with those types of problem either! Fortunately it was a straight-forward install for this application and it works great. I guess time will tell how reliable it turns out to be. Thanks for watching!
nice explanation. well done
Thank you very much!!
Im a technician so ima chime in if you dont mind. Normally that would weaken the caps but aslong as all 5 caps are milled perfectly the same wich can be done and the girdle and caps seat perfectly flat on 1 another id think it would work provided you use arp hardware. And i do have 1 thought. I wonder if the girdle is modified to come down to the block so i5 can bolt to the block aswell i wonder if that would eliminate flexing even further.. i could be wrong because things do have to be able to flex slightly to accommodate the harmonics and heat cycles it endures...
Thanks for your comments. I'd love to see someone design a girdle that comes down to meet the oil pan rail. If it were say a 1/4" thick full perimeter spacer on the pan rail then installation wouldn't be affected, although you'd probably need to extend the oil pump pickup too. I'll bet that would stiffen up the bottom end a lot. Too much? Maybe, but I'd be curious to try it out. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get the bolts with safety wire holes for the lifter spider?
I get most of my specialty fasteners (including those) from McMaster-Carr. Thanks for watching!
Bill , What are doing about the early 2 piece rear main seal issue using the Eagle crank that was designed for the one piece rear main seal ? Eagle says it's going to leak !
Great question! The rotating assembly kit that I used is an Eagle B14003030, and the forged crank in this kit is designed to work with either a 1- or 2-piece rear main seal. I didn't want to have the machine work done to switch this engine over to a 1-piece seal, so I installed a quality 2-piece seal and it doesn't leak. I'm considering the 1-piece seal upgrade for another stroker that I'm working on, but I'm probably going to leave this one as is. Thanks for watching!
289 engine is actually 2.87 in stroke!
Yup, I've been beat up a lot in the comments about that mistake! Thanks for watching.
The problem i have with most girdles is their design, how they attach to the main caps. Most of them just sandwich between the main cap fastener and cap. The issue with that is when the cap is stressed ro the point it starts lifting or moving in the register, it moves the girdle with it since the girdle is no longer held in place. The solution would be to use a nut under the main cap, then install the girdle over top of the torqued stud followed by another nut on top of that. With this scheme the main cap still has a tight grip on the girdle even if the cap starts lifting IOW, the girdle can be far more effective holding onto the cap under load, supplementing the cap rigidity and adding strength. The problem this poses is insufficient clearance to the oil pan under most conditions. You'd need a deeper oil pan in that case. I also agree a well designed girdle will only add rigidity in the horizontal plane. Only a stronger cap design with better clamping to the block will avoid most of any cap walk anyone would encounter at power levels causing significant cylinder bore distortion. Stock roller block 302s are ticking time bombs at power levels exceeding 400 fwhp, especially when high rpms are needed to produce those numbers and especially so with a marginal tune. The 50 oz imbalance is the other weekness, mainly becuase the stock cast crank floos around like a wet noodle at higher rpms. The stress of that happening puts alot of load on the stock 2 bolt caps registers with or without a girdle. A bare factory roller block only weighs about 120 lbs with caps. They are likely one of the weakest V8 platforms I've dealt with. That is why I prefer 351w based builds when a stock block is called for. These also dont have any bolts going into coolant like most newer 302s have.
Interesting that you suggest torquing the main cap stud nuts and then placing the girdle on top of those and retaining the girdle with a 2nd nut - I am experimenting with that exact setup on another 289 block, and it looks like it's going to clear my Milidon deep sump pan with plenty of room to spare. If I go with that at some point, I'll make another video. Thanks for watching!
Is this a hyd roller or tappet engine? What did you do to keep them pumped up? Just soak them?
It's a hydraulic roller cam, but there's no need to worry about keeping the lifters pumped up if you install checking springs on the valves. The springs inside the lifters are stronger than the checking springs installed on the valves, to the lifters will not collapse when opening the valves.
@@billsgarage if you have a hydraulic roller pumped up, will it stay pumped up thru 2 revolutions of a engine if not using checking springs, for final valve adjustment?
@@johnnyhonda7576i second this question as im literally about to check pushrods tomorrow and don’t have the checking springs lol
Trick flow recomends machining the caps in their instructions for their race girdle. My machine shop said to get a girdle. He is a ford guy so he was happy to do the work.
You won't regret it. Thanks for watching!
You're correct, it's not the two bolt mains that are the problem, its engine harmonics is why ppl have engine failures with these early blocks. 500HPish at the flywheel all day long.
Thanks for your comments!
The second distributor is not electronic, it’s a passive inductor and it is Hall effect. ( no active electronics involved) it is used to interface with an amplifier device ( MSD 6 AL or similar) ….. and on that note, be warned that MSD now has their consumer distributors made in China. Their failure rate is high.
MSD Distributors like this one are not Hall Effect, they are Variable Reluctance, as evidenced by the fact that there are only 2 wires on the sensor, as opposed to the 3 wires necessary for a Hall Effect sensor to operate. All Variable Reluctance sensors have 2 wires, and all Hall Effect sensors have 3 wires. Some of the newer MSD models do use a Hall Effect sensor, but not the one that I described. This type of distributor is an electronic one because it can't be operated without transistorized microcircuitry. You don't have to use an MSD box, you could use a Ford Duraspark, GM HEI module, or something similar in order to trigger the coil, but you can't trigger a coil directly with a Variable Reluctance sensor.
Thanks man I had one wrong after a double check after watching this. 👍
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
your pump gas can be as high 105 octane. e85 or propane are 105. when e100 is 129! octane.
I remember seeing 105 at the pump one time when I was in the suburbs north of Detroit. I'm in Florida, and the highest we see at the pump in my area is 97. Thanks for watching!
Great advice in this video... We built up a '96 Explorer motor (5.0 HO/GT40) and installed a TFS1 cam, spring kit and new head gaskets. Lots of tapping on start up. Turned out we needed to go from the stock 6.250 pushrods up to 6.300.
That's a noise that will definitely get your attention! Thanks for watching.
That car will be valuable one day it’s just not right now
Possibly, but I don't think it will ever be worth what I've invested in mine. But I'm happy with it!
For high rpm (6000+) - high hp (400+) sustained use on a 302, a main girdle will help not hurt.
I don't know of anyone who ever regretted installing one.
I had a 76 Mustang ii Ghia v-6 auto, I never noticed the quarter window difference, thank you for teaching me something, tossed a rod one night coming home from work and junked it.
steel post aka B pillar lol
😂🤣 Yes, thank you!
The V-6 had a habit of doing that. Thankis for watching!
@@billsgarage And I never had a problem with the 2.8 V6. Oil and filter and it was ready to go. Last one had over 300K, and the tranny died.
I hate vinyl tops.
They look awful, and I hate the rust that's under mine!
Thanks searched and searched this is the only video that makes sense
Awesome, thanks for watching!
I bought a brand new White with Blue Cobra in 1976 right after I got my first full time job. I loved that car and kept it over a decade
Awesome, I'll bet you miss it!
What about the oil galley press in plug in the top back of the block? Ben Almeda racing recommends pressing it in upside down to improve oil flow. Do you think this is necessary? ruclips.net/video/7b-xa7aGHEo/видео.html
That's an interesting idea, but plugs are tapered so that they seal effectively when installed in the intended orientation, and installing them in the opposite direction means that they are sealing only on the rim of the plug instead of the entire side flange. Ben Almeda has obviously been using this approach for a long time, but he's solely focused on racing, so he doesn't need to worry about long-term reliability as you would on a street engine. Leakage of oil from this plug leads directly to loss of oil pressure, so I would be cautious about trying something like this on a street engine like mine. In my opinion, a much better approach would be to blend the area between the two passages with a grinder in order to promote better flow from one side to the other, effectively opening up the chamber between the two sides and eliminating the problem that flipping the plug is meant to address. As added insurance against plug leakage, you could tap the block and install a threaded plug. I'll probably be doing something like this on the next engine that I build. Great question, and thanks for watching!
I don't know if you have ever ported heads or not but on your first 2 cast iron you can 14:39 work the combustion chamber on the sides of the valves where they are shrouded and it will help quite a bit. Try to make them look kinda similar to the afr chambers. I built a 390 20 yrs ago & I did everything I could as far as porting goes. Just stock 2.05 1.55 valves. I removed that little step up into the chamber ridge beside the seat, gasket match, bowls, whittled down the guides like sharpening a pencil - a bit, hogged the shit out of the exhaust bowl. I'm not a pro builder with a flow bench but that engine ran good. 72 F 250 2 wd auto. Headers into cherry bombs & exit right behind the doors. Isky cam 264 during 525 lift, Edelbrock 4v carb & hot ignition. Ran good. Fun driver
I'll bet it was fun! I thought about doing some work in the combustion chamber on those heads, but I felt that even with all of the port work I had done, it was never going to perform like an aftermarket head, so I drew the line there and left the chambers alone. It did the job for it's time, and I certainly had a lot of fun with it! Thanks for watching!
There great at keeping main caps from recirculating thru the engine.. girdles are minimized cap walk if you have ever looked out a window on airplane see the wing’s moving while flying it is a must. If it didn’t would have stress cracks quickly.🍔🍟
Well, it doesn't matter on small, low performance airplanes, but large and high performance airplanes usually have systems that counteract and dampen wing flex. Airbus uses software to manipulate the ailerons to attenuate wing flex and flutter, while other manufacturers tend to install dedicated actuators called flutter dampers (similar to yaw dampers installed on the rudder). Thanks for watching.
Hey, I see a Mustang II ghia in the background, nice. I'm actually working on my 1977 Mustang II coupe with the 332" stroker engine in it, and having issues with starter grinding, correct aftermarket starter for it, new 141 Tooth flexplate, undamaged block plate, properly threaded holes in the stock mustang II bellhousing, goddamn starter still tears up the ring gear teeth, it's getting annoying. lol I never had trouble with the stock II V8 starter back when I could run the stock II smaller oil pan with it, but the stud girdle on the stroker motor forced me to run a full size car oil pan, necessitating the use of a mini starter, such as from a 1990s Mustang or aftermarket. Tried both styles, still with the starter grinding during cranking. Modified vehicles, always fun.... I think I will try one of those PM starters with the adjustable depth shims.
Yup, that's my 1978 in the background, good eye! Always great to hear from a fellow Mustang II owner. That sounds like a super-frustrating problem, but you're right - par for the course with a modified vehicle. I was really worried about how my setup was going to work with the quicktime bellhousing bolted to an early 5-bolt 289 and an aftermarket flywheel. I can't speak to the longevity of the PM starter because I've only had it for about a year, but I can say that it's worked flawlessly from the first start. Lots of videos of my Mustang II coming in the future of you're interested. Thanks for watching!
@@billsgarage I just bought that same starter from summit, hopefully this will do it. The tech at PM said that I should steer clear of the pioneer flexplate and I should get a TCI or Hughes flex plate. Lol if only it were that easy.
@@billsgarage I finally got my grinding issue sorted out with the starter. The pinion wasn't meshing closely enough with the ring gear, the powermaster starter had a larger 10T pinion, that actually measured 1.155", compared to the others, at 1.05". Huge difference! I uploaded a video with the new starter cranking and the Mustang II firing up for the first time in awhile. Open headers. Thank you for pointing me in the direction of powermaster! Very happy with it.
Hate is a pretty personal feeling. So it doesn’t make any sense to hate a car that most people can’t even identify or have even seen. I picked a II for my project because it was my first car. I already knew every bolt, so I could relate. I think I have managed to keep cost on parity with worth. I’m about $7k into it and besides some knick-knack stuff I only have AC and locking diff to go. I’ll probably go with new disk brakes all around, but that is surprisingly less expensive than I imagined. I just put “Mustang II” suspension in it with coil-overs. It seemed like a perfunctory obligation to respect this weird echo of engineering for the II suspension. I got the car as a roller, no motor or transmission. I did the body and paint myself. Now it has a roller 302 with trick flow 11r heads and a T-5 with a hydraulic clutch. Its tagged and insured. Sure, its not going to keep up with a new mustang. I didn’t want a knuckle dragger. It’s a small RWD car with a bit too much power and its easy to work on. Whats to hate? People are dumb.
I checked out your videos - sounds great, I hope you have a blast with it! Thanks for watching.
And cap walk isn't as big of an issue with lower HP motors. So, in a way, it can help handle more power.
Thanks for your comment
Watched several videos 0n this subject and your's was the first to actually explain this procedure in plain English and with clear video. Excellent video, thanks for posting.
Wow, thank you so much for the compliment, and thanks for watching!
I've listened to people's drivel since the mid 80s. I don't hear it so much nowadays, but there are still people out there - especially on the internet.
Yeah, there's still plenty of nonsense out there, almost always from people with no creativity or originality. Thanks for watching!
I had to grind my oil pump too, and also did some to the main stud head
A little nerve wracking while you're doing it, but worth it in the end. Thanks for watching!
nice review
Thanks for watching!
People who question doing anything with a Mii are ignorant or dumb, it's that simple. The 71-3 are still smaller than Chargers, they're still pony cars. Let people hate them and let them keep being cheap. Cars aren't suppossed to be investments. I've never got a car I had no intentions of keeping, other than the Neon.
Yup, you should do whatever makes you happy. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the memories! My first car purchase in High School was a 78 Mustang II RootbeerBrown. It was a great car.
Glad to take you down memory lane!
Do what you like. Who cares what other people think?
Agreed!