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Yes, this is what Patty is writing about on pages 114 and 115 of Knitting Bag of Tricks. Whether you wrap your yarn clockwise or counter-clockwise around the needle will affect whether you have a short or long yarn over - it affects how much yarn length is in the yarn over. It also affects which needle position you need to keep the yarn over an open hole in lace, or which needle position you need to twist the yarn over shut, as when used as an increase. If you've ever made a twisted stitch, you are already familiar with stitch facing, even if you didn't call it that. This is the same principle but with yarn overs. My general rule is swatch and see what you get. If the holes in your lace pattern are uneven, try wrapping the offending yarn over in a different direction. If a hole is coming out very small, you can double-wrap a yarn over to make it much bigger. Be sure to drop the extra wrap when you work the yarn over on the next row or round.

@jolieknits9393 I am working the YO as an increase and keeping the hole for lace as the pattern also has a K2tog. Should I YO twice for the purl and normal for the knit and then knit or purl the extra YO to still create the hole? I will swatch again using different methods. Sometimes it's tricky as I am a western style knitter and my leading leg is different to some others on a pattern I want to follow. Thank you for the detailed reply and it was extra amazing that you know the book! A new sub here :)

@@bittersweet82 It sounds like, yes, you need the double yarn over - one to make the increase and one to keep the lace hole. Another approach is to omit the k2tog. Lace that grows - such as a center-out circle shawl or a small to large triangle - often uses this tactic. On rows where you don't want the fabric to grow wider, there is a decrease to compensate for every yarn over. But when you do want the fabric to grow, you keep the yarn overs making your pretty lace pattern, but you don't work the compensating decreases. If you've ever worked a pi shawl, you've seen this trick. the yarn over functions as both pattern and increase shaping! Dual purpose. I do a whole class on knitting with both western- and eastern-facing stitches. It is a powerful thing to understand your knitting at that level. Good for you!

A hole at the sides usually means you aren't twisting the two colors together when you change from one side of the work to the other. Without a twist, there will be a gap from the edge of the work until the first color change in the pattern. You can leave sides open on purpose for a dowel rod, as I did with my Nittany Lion Banner here: www.ravelry.com/projects/Jolie/penn-state-banner. But if you want the sides closed, make sure the first stitch on the new row "catches" or "traps" the other color as it turns to head back down the row.

If the RS row ends with purl stitches, the technique doesn’t work quite as well. Trapping a carried yarn involves carrying it on the purl side of the work. If the purl side is the public side, then the carried yarn is trapped to the public side, which isn’t pleasing. If there is a way to trap to the knit side of the work, I don’t yet know it.

@@jolieknits9393 Thank you.

Yes, you understand! If you are working back and forth, the obverse ("right side") row takes two passes, one with each color. When you turn the work over, now the reverse ("wrong side") row takes two passes, one with each color. Yes, you read the chart left to right on the reverse row. Here's the catch. On the reverse row, the color in the chart is the purl stitch not the knit stitch. It's like reading a knit-purl pattern back-and-forth on a chart and having to remember on the wrong-side row that the purl is a knit and the knit is a purl. Because that messes with my brain, I instead think "match or not match." If the next stitch in the chart matches the one in the row below, then match the pair on the needles - i.e. work that knit-purl pair in the same colors. If the next stitch in the chart doesn't match the stitch in the previous row, then I work the pair in the opposite colors. (This same trick works in a lot of other chart-reading circumstances.) Please let me know if this makes sense. Your reversible knitted houndstooth sounds like a pretty fabric! Happy knitting!

I’m making progress. Thank you.

I agree. This method is not fast. And Fox Paws is challenging anyway. This is definitely a stunt knit!

I've been struggling to solve this, you just saved me so much time! Thank you!

what do you mean by “twisting the two strands of yarn”? I’m having that same problem right now as I’m not able to decipher how to trap the yarn on a purl row😔😔

Your pattern in the same both going across on one round what do you think?

I like your idea! I wonder if it might be possible to weave patterns beyond tabby using two heddle bars? I haven't experimented yet. I need to improve my woodworking skills. Thank you!

@@jolieknits9393 , thank you for the feedback. I hope it works.

There's more information about this pattern on my blog here: jolieaelder.blogspot.com/2009/07/net-pattern-simplified-with-video.html If you have Nancy Marchant's *Knitting Brioche* book, this is the two-color honeycomb pattern at the top of page 127. It is a two-stitch pattern. Cast-on an even number of stitches. This pattern can be worked over an odd number of stitches, too! If you are accustomed to the yarn forward slip and yarn over method of brioche - which is the one favored by Stephen West - this pattern is a little different. You'll make the yarn overs on one pass. On the next pass you don't bark or burp them. Instead, you knit or purl in the stitch underneath the the yarn over and slip the yarn over. Now you have two stitches with a yarn over above them, rather than one stitch with a yarn over above it. I'll be teaching brioche at the The Knitting Guild Association online conference in April 2023. tkga.org/conference/ Coincidentally, I've been updating my brioche handout this week! I usually cover this technique in my Brioche Rosetta Stone class. However, for TKGA the class is only 2 hours not 3. I don't yet know if I will have time to include this, as it is uncommon.

@@jolieknits9393 say if you did dark and light simultaneously can you describe? In your video you do it partially. What is your set up row?

@@sabrahardy Ok, here's the description: For this particular pattern, there is a set-up row. Cast on using the background-color. In my example, that's dark. Set-up: Using net color (light color), work a wrong-side row of knit all (which creates a row of purls on the right side of the fabric). Over an even number of stitches the pattern is - Row 1 (RS): Using net color, alternate knit 1, knit 1 more below. Slide work to other end of needle without turning. Row 2 (RS): Using background color, alternate purl 1, purl together a stitch with its yarn over. Turn work. Row 3 (WS): Using net color, alternative purl 1, purl 1 more below. Slide work to other end of needle without turning. Row 4 (WS): Using background color, alternate knit 1, knit together a stitch with its yarn over. Turn work. Repeat those 4 rows for pattern. To end pattern, bind off in pattern on row 2 or row 4. I haven't sat down to figure out how to work it in the round. These directions might not be correct. I would try: Using dark background color, cast on an even number of stitches and join in the round. Set up: using light net color, purl one round. Then I'd try: Round 1: Using net color, alternate knit 1, knit 1 more below. Round 2 : Using background color, alternate purl 1, purl together a stitch with its yarn over. Round 3: Using net color, alternate knit 1 more below, knit 1. Round 4: Using background color, alternate purl together a stitch with its yarn over, purl 1. I've never tried working "one pass" brioche where you work both colors on one round. I've done that with double-knitting. I thought part of why people liked brioche was you could get pretty color patterns without having two yarns in your hands at the same time? I will need to investigate one pass brioche. Please reply whether or not the in the round directions work.

Yes, I think you have exactly the right idea. I'm typically using this for a bind-off, but you could use the trapping trick to leave live stitches. If binding off, I normally work the trapping stitches a bit looser. If you are parking them to use later, then work them at normal tension.

I have a blog post here: jolieaelder.blogspot.com/2020/04/a-corner-turn.html. The easiest way to work a corner turn is to do some short rows. Pull up a loop, work out and back, work out and back again without pulling up a loop, and then pull up a loop in the same place and work out and back. Usually that extra fullness will get you around the corner. You might have to experiment a bit to find the optimal solution. Does that help?

@@jolieknits9393 More than helps! Thank you!

Ah, I've never had a chance to read Jane Neighbors' book. I believe Wisconsin has a sheep and wool festival? Maybe I'll need to fill out an application? :-)

Hmmm. The easiest way to get bigger holes with the technique I'm demonstrating here is simply bind off way more stitches - 11, 13, 15. Cornellia Tuttle Hamilton had a Craftsy class called "Innovative Openwork Scarves," but I don't see it listed anymore. She has patterns listed on Ravelry, such as this one: www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fernanda-cowl. If you search her scarf patterns you'll see a bunch of unusual projects that might fit your design aspirations!

Hopefully you have your colorwork charted out? In my example here, I've worked the fabric so you'll see knit stitches on both sides, although the fabric is essentially 1×1 ribbing worked in two colors. If you want to use this slipped-stitch technique, put stitch markers in between every color change. Then work knit and slip OR slip and purl, depending on what you need to match your chart. Knit then slip matches the color on the chart. Slip then purl is what you do when the color you are using does not match the next box on the chart. And don't forget it is the other-way round when you work the "wrong side" reverse rows coming back. I think it is probably easier to do this technique if you already know the standard double-knitting with both colors at once technique. Your question does bring up the issue of textured double-knitting. That would be a more advanced technique but it could be done with this work-and-slip or slip-and-work method.

Glad I could help! If you do regular double-knitting in this technique, you'll end up with a soap sack, pillow case, or sleeping bag. Please come back and post a link to your finished project!

You are very welcome! I hope you make something beautiful in double-knitting!

Have considered monetizing. But I know how annoyed I am when there's an advertisement in the middle of a demonstration. Am trying to figure out how to create a universal end screen where I could link to my blog, pattern store, and upcoming shows. I'm better at knitting and teaching than I am at technology or capitalism.