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My Jimny was not electronic 4x4, it was a manual lever. All I had to do was plug the vacuum line for the hubs and use the manual hubs instead.

oh, no, its too runny to build up

You know… I’m not sure. I don’t know enough about flex seal to give you a good answer but so long as it’s strong enough and flexible enough not to crack under vibration then it should be ok. The biggest risk with a repair like this is that the glue would break apart and get sucked into the engine. I don’t know enough about flex seal to give you good advice here but it MIGHT work.

It might! That’s not a bad idea. So long as it’s both a good adhesive and somewhat flexible to avoid cracking under vibration then it should probably work. You don’t want it to crumble and get sucked through the hole and into the engine.

@@watchmework7672 Thanks for the fast reply/thoughts. I have 4 tubes of the stuff on hand because it is an incredibly strong adhesive. I've used it for so many things. It has the rubber and flex and never have i seen it get brittle or crack over time. Going to give it a shot now

@@MACWILLIAM let me know if it works! I’m curious

I think so. Never noticed any leaks or issues.

It would probably work for a short time but I wouldn’t trust it to hold up to long term usage.

RTV will work fine, better than PRC etc. Clean the hose, crazy glue the split surfaces, fill in the section with rtv then let dry, then rape with self sealing silicone tape. Then order a new hose, that way the repair will hold forever as the car knows you are prepared.

Did the repair work? Part is not available anywhere.@@johnnyappleseed7798

I’m happy that you could solve your 4x4 problem and save some money! That’s great news.

@@watchmework7672 thanks for the reply to my comment relating to your video tutorial! (if you like it I would like you to subscribe to my RUclips channel to see my blue Suzuki Jimny 4x4 from 2001 1.3 l petrol with m13a engine off-road?)

Hey there! I don't know very much about defenders (they're very rare here) but the process for changing the hub should be essentially the same. As long as there are freewheeling hubs that will fit on your axle, it should work. I know some of the older Land Rovers had them, and maybe the axle is the same - but if not there's likely an aftermarket company that makes them.

@@watchmework7672 thanks so much for your message. I keep looking. Cheers

It has an expiry date and they would just throw it out otherwise 😂

​@Watch Me Work I do the same with a ton of stuff from work. Paint, loctite, glues, etc. When your ISO compliant, you end up throwing a lot of good stuff away, haha.

Oh, I just got it from the dealership. Black was one of the color options available for 2020. I didn't want to get it in red because I figured EVERYONE has a red Honda.

Thanks for the input. Feel free to make your own instructional video if this one wasn't helpful.

@@watchmework7672 man it must be annoying getting that sort of comment on a video you made. What a dick. Not only is he wrong, he was a dick while being wrong as well. Your video was great man. I admire the fact you made it on the fly, framed it well and kept out of the way of the shot the whole time. That takes some skill and experience. I'm just about to do this to my Surf (you guys call them 4Runners), so just watching a couple of videos to refresh my memory on how they go on. Thanks for the video.

@@KiwiPokerPlayer it takes all kinds, right? And I do know of the surf! They're sweet rigs. Glad my video could help you out, man :)

There will likely be some minor differences but the basic procedure would be the same, yes. Locking hubs come in different shapes and sizes but the process of changing them is essentially the same for all 4x4s with standard axles. It's a bit different for 4x4s with full floating axles but that isn't the case for your Vitara.

It still illuminated, but it would blink at me - indicating there was an error. I believe there may be a way to fix this, by fiddling with the vacuum lines in some way, but I never bothered to do that. The blinking green light was never very noticeable to me when I was off road either way.

Why would you want to do that? The letters are supposed to be white. Most tires with white letters can also be purchased in plain black. If you don't want the white letters, you would just purchase the plain black version. If you absolutely must remove white lettering, you could likely do it with abrasion. Sandpaper or a flapper wheel with a grinder, maybe. This isn't something I've ever done, so I would advise against attempting it without extreme caution to avoid damaging your tires.

@@watchmework7672 Well I'm fine with the letterings I just don't like the white "paint"or whatever it is, I have been searching a way to remove the white thingy on the letterings that's all I like the logo but I don't like how there's a white paint on it, maybe a paint thinner?

@@hyun3548 you could always try a paint thinner, sure. It might work. I'm not entirely certain, as removing the white paint isn't something I've ever attempted. The paint they use is very strong so I'm not sure if paint thinner will have much of an effect on it, but perhaps it would.

I think they usually have black lettering on the other side. Just have them mounted the other way around.

@@drksoldier1 Never thought of that wouldn't that affect the tire usage percentage?

The sizes of speakers that would fit in any particular vehicle definitely depends on the vehicle in question. In the case of my Jimny, I don't think a 6 inch speaker would fit. You'd have to cut the metal mounting hole larger, and I think it would be unlikely that the cover would still fit afterward. I'm not an expert when it comes to mounting larger than factory speakers, so I can't offer you very much advice on that. Sorry, friend.

@@watchmework7672 cheers mate 🤙

@@user-wd5mx9ec3p you can fit 13cm / 5.25 inch speakers in the metal home. Maybe larger if you use a spacer adaptor made of wood.

I'm sorry to hear that's been your experience with their windscreen. I don't work for the company so I can't help you, but perhaps their customer service department could give you a refund or partial refund even.

Function the same basically, but manuals are more trustworthy. If a vacuum line fails or an auto hub fails it’s typically the system that engages it that’s the issue and then you’re out of luck. Since you do manual hubs by hand, they just work.

As camp said, they're not better or worse - but they're more reliable. My 4x4 had vacuum operated hubs and I was concerned that the vacuum lines would get damaged while I was off road. This would disable my 4x4 system and potentially leave me stranded. That's why I replaced them with manual hubs.

I'm not sure, since the front fairing is a bit different, but I think it may be similar enough to work. The bottom of the windshield is flat like the top of the 230L headlight. The 250L has an angled headlight. Other than that, the fairing looks pretty similar so it would probably work but I don't know for sure so I won't make any promises. I'm not affiliated with Bajaworx in any way so I don't have any inside information.

This type of sealant CAN be bought by the general public but it's not easy, I do admit. The main reason I didn't go with a standard off the shelf sealant is I couldn't think of one that had the right combination of strength and flexibility to hold up against the engine vibration over time. You could follow this same procedure with other types of sealant or rubber cement but you may have to come back and repair it again after a few months or a year.

www.pilotgearonline.com/3m-aerospace-ac-240-class-b-12-fuel-tank-fuselage-sealant/ It's not impossible, but I admit it is rather difficult to find. I found some at this website but it can be found elsewhere if you know where to look. You should be able to use a similar product if you can find one locally. It just needs to be able to bind to the rubber hose.

I'm sorry, my friend, I don't know what that says and I'm unable to translate it on my phone.

No, they're just the cheap ones from the Jimnybits website. AVM knock offs far as I can tell.

Yep! They're still working perfectly. It's a tiny bit more effort to engage them manually vs the old vacuum operated ones but the peace of mind is worth it to me. I didn't want to risk one of the vacuum lines being damaged while off road and losing 4x4 operation. Now I know for certain they will remain locked until I choose to unlock them.

You're welcome, I'm glad it was helpful!

www.pilotgearonline.com/3m-aerospace-ac-240-class-b-12-fuel-tank-fuselage-sealant/ It wasn't easy to find, since it's an aircraft product, but this is what you're looking for. You may be able to find it elsewhere - I'm not sure. Sorry it's not a common product you can just go out and buy at the store haha

You're welcome! I'm glad I could help!

You're welcome, I'm glad to hear it was helpful to you!

I was thinking the same thing. They're a bit more blue than I'd like but they look alright. I agree about not going cheap on LEDs. My headlight bulbs are LED as well and I paid a pretty penny for them but it was worth it. They've been reliable and they're nice and bright with a clean cutoff.