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I have had my kukris for several years now. I purchased mine from Great Gurkha Kukris. I began getting rust very quickly on mine. I asked Purna Darnal who is the owner of GGK what to do about rust. I was using mineral oil or WD40 on the blades but it dries off easily and they rust. Purna suggested motor oil. I tried that and it worked. Motor oil stays on the kukris longer and protects them much longer than light oils. I now use motor oil on my shot gun. I live in Panama which has high humidity and everything rusts like crazy here. I just thought I would share that since you seem to be having some rust issues with your blades.

Can you share anatomical details of the blade please?

From where you have bought. I want to buy. Give details

Very good sir 👏

Good practical blades.

Thanks man, that means a lot!

Those are BEAUTIFUL!!! Thanks for sharing!! 👍

What shorts (stubbies) are those? Thanks.

I have purchased MK1 kukri from Himalayanblades, they make excellent piece. To my surprise, the Mk1 from Tora I own from years and MK1 from Himalayanblades. The Himalayan Blades did better performance in terms of chopping. Maybe my Tora MK1 is old so it be the reason for poor performance.

Just before the guard it’s 40 mm wide, that drops to 35 at the waist and at the widest part it’s about 63 mm.

I have the same one, mate. I got it from Simon's company, Tora. Congrats, and thanks for posting.

Love it!

Weight of the kukri is 692 grams and in the sheath is 903 grams.

Weight of the blade and full tang?

Do you think that you have presented a full view of the blade?

Positive comment

Electrolysis, try it! It makes the metal for a while more brittle if you overdo if, but it will take out nothing but the rust. Nothing that should affect something as little as a hatchet to make it fail...and the material goes back to its original state eventually. (The Hydrogen atoms that "seep" in-between the metal ones find their way out eventually.) I used an old PC power source, worked perfectly! Also, it seems to me you should put the head the other way around. Look at the curvature: should be deeper at the bottom. The hole should be wider at the top, so that you can drive a wedge and the flare would retain the head. I actually like to leave the handle proud at the top (not flush) and drive the wedge a little bit lower. This way, you have the two separate splits of the handle adding extra friction/grip by pushing the sides. Nice one, all that being said!

The sheath and clip are an option, normal sheath is traditional, not kydex.

Is the sheath and belt clip from kailash?

Some great looking sheaths! Good action, especially considering the guards. WI think that in a lot of situations fabric/leather is a superior material vs kydex for sheath loops. We need the rigidty of kydex as we're asking our loops to cover a lot of distance and also hold up to twisting etc due to only being attached on one side. Fabic/leather can be lighter, more comfortable, quieter, lower profile and has better fatigue life. A lot to like!

Wrecker man had me rehandle the same hatchet. It had not seen any love in a long time. It looked dead on that one. Handle and the little flare at the top of the face. Same hatchet. It was rusted and at some point had yellow paint on it, also had wood stuck on it. Our wire wheel on the bench grinder is soft enough to touch with my fingers when runnin so it didn't take much off of it. Swear it was the same hatchet

Two questions about your Mutiny: is that distal taper standard or they did it custom for you? And what's the blade length. Cheers!

Nice one, but the head should be mounted the other way around.

Good find mate and I’m sure you’ll restore the hatchet well!

P.S. I just had a look on Google, and your axe might be pretty valuable?

Evening... That's a good find - probably some very good steel? Take care...

Using argon gas determines the final microstructure of the steel - and enhances the quality...interesting talk, I'd enjoy hanging out in the sharpening shop with you...

Wow, thats a pretty edge! Nice work...

P.S. I'm curious about Jende's "Nanocloth" strops, in the 1" x 6" format for TSPROF? Interesting design, the honeycomb...might try one depending on the results I get with the Stroppy Stuff emulsion...

Nice work, Shelley! I see you have some stones from Jende? I just picked up the Atoma #140 from them to reprofile a hand-forged Coolina. Looking forward to trying it out. Just subbed to your channel...take care, cheers!

P.S. I've read about using a cork to draw the blade through a few times to remove the wire edge, or "Burr?"

Afternoon, Shelley - I have the KO-3 too, and recently picked up some 4 micron diamond abrasive emulsion called "Stroppy Stuff." I'll be loading up a cowhide leather strop and am wondering if I should change the angle ever so slightly before stropping with the 1" x 6" plate? These TSPROF systems are the cat's pajamas, eh? I'm still just learning mine, only done a handful of blades and a couple pair of scissors. The scissors came out better than new, and what a pleasure using a truly sharp knife! Take care and thanks for these tutorials...

Not 154cm. Randall doesn't use that alloy

Nice

Good looking khukuris thanks for the comparison and pics.

Для чого на лезі хукрі виконують дві виїмки з язичком? Ви продаєте хукрі?

I can’t decide if I want to buy a Kailash or a Tora for my first kukri.

Any idea of what an original Mk 1 WWI kukri might be worth to a collector?

I have a had a failure on a Kailash wood handle but not the Tora, my leather handle Kailash is very comfortable and the micarta should last forever. I would say for durability go for micarta, it may not be traditional but it’s a really good consistent product.

Well if you want something to look fantastic then the Tora is the best looking models I have seen, if you want something to use though and to chop or cut with then I would go for the kailash, there heat treatment is better than the Tora.

How do you like the stacked leather handle from Kailash versus their micarta handle and the wood handles from Tora Blades?

Should I get a Tora or a Kailash for my first kukri?

Nice homebuilt knife. That grinder is nice too, home built unit?

The most plausible one I've heard is that it acts as a "shock absorber" when chopping but I see no reason why that would be the case, at this time.

Was the metal end cap (opposite the bolster) a special request? I'll admit that's the one thing holding me back from ordering one. If it becomes use blade, I worry about the unprotected end.

Something that people don’t realize is that it’s close to impossible to bring a new product to market from nothing. The goat wasn’t made by an already established tool company. That fact lets me overlook the minor flaws for an otherwise great idea that I had been wanting for along time. I had to take my scissor spring out and bend it properly. After that the scissors are great. They cut everything very well. Including paracord. I’ve been replacing my black tools for satin. My new scissors, the spring is visibly bent properly from the factory. No problems. The wire cutters are a very quick and easy fix with a dremmel. You don’t really need to be all that careful. It’s a big block of steel right there. I think you could even go into the threads some without any issues. The head of the screws are on the opposite side of where you need to dremmel. On my goat the main plier screws need to be pretty tight. The main tool side screws just need to be a little firm. If you can thread lock them in those positions it should be good after that. Sorry for the long “know it all”comment. I think the goat is a great tool. But it’s not for everyone. It is a first run and it does need minor fixes.

Tôi có thể mua được không

Bhai contact no to send kro

That was impressive 📸👍

Qui elle est entreprise qui fabrique ses magnifiques Khukuri