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Thanks!

Couldn't agree more!

Thanks for the comment!

That is actually a painful question for me to answer. The truth is 12 years :( But, the reality is that I was working a full time job, and also had my business on the side. So the build did not get my full attention. If I did not have my side business I probably could have finished the plane in 4-5 years (it was a standard kit, not a quick-build kit)

Oh, Bro ( and I mean that literally!) I had flamed so many planes that day, with my SIX .50 cal machine guns, that alas I had run out of ammo for strafing runs!

Hi Matt, I am still happy with the Modix printer. I need to state again that the black gearbox model I show was an early attempt to build a 1/2 scale sample aluminum casting pattern, and the print quality was not great in some areas due to some parameters in Slic3R that needed adjustment. Like a lot of trial and error efforts, I didn't know what needed adjusting. I was not getting a good first layer print on top of the honeycomb sections. This led to rough texture on subsequent layers. So... people have noticed this and think the printer itself had an issue. Not so. I have since made an adjustment to the overlap distance Slic3R had for a default, and it made a huge difference. I would buy this printer again, but I have not kept up on what other competitive options are now out there. I tried to give a no BS assessment of the printer, and I hope people construe it that way. I also do not claim to be the world's expert on 3D printing. If someone is going to spend the coin on this printer, I would recommend getting the clear enclosure. It keeps the heat in, and the dust out. You can also readily run an ventilation fan and ducting to keep fumes out of the work area (as I plan to do soon). I have not used the 2nd head setup, I personally didn't find the need for it. It is supposed to be for printing the standoffs for otherwise unsupported print layers, or for printing in a different plastic material / color. You can save a little bit of money by not getting the 2nd head. Stay tuned for better models I will show. I know, I have been saying this for awhile now... But it is coming. I have a very unique engine project for another plane I plan to build. The engine will go in a an RV-8, similar to my current RV-7 I am now enjoying flying. I hope to have an engine on a test stand and running in 1-2 years. Maybe glacial speed to satisfy the impatience of many, but I am not being funded by a guy name Musk. There will be several parts made using the Modix printer. Stay tuned. Mark RV-7 Recent flight: ruclips.net/video/bWCDxL3D-G0/видео.html RV-7 First flight video: ruclips.net/video/SUFUGBS473w/видео.html

@@markswinford2875 Mark, thanks so much for the reply and for the information. Regarding the 2nd head (or lack there of), do you have an issue removing any support material that gets printed with your parts? Or have you altered settings in such a way that it isn't an issue. I'm asking because I assumed a larger format printer would be more reliant on a secondary material for support.

@@mmcclure1981 Matt, I have not yet worked up to the stage of printing many parts that need support material. I have done a few trials with doing it, using one print head, and have not yet got to the point where I am happy with the results. I plan to do some more tests in the future with software adjustments. Thus far I find that there is still some bonding going on, such that when the supports are broken away it can leave imperfections in the finish of the residual desired part. This can not be an issue with the printer, since it has components every bit as accurate as about any other printer I have seen doing FFF printing. As I stated in the video, and also probably post comments, I got this printer to make casting patterns, and can tolerate gluing the pieces together. One benefit of doing it this way is less material waste, and lower risk of losing an entire print job for about any reason (print is intentionally divided into segments). There may be other Modix customers printing large figures that can answer the question better.

This user is doing some pretty wild prints (1st link). It looks like he has only one print head. The 2nd print head can print materials such as dissolvable PVA (2nd link below). Personally I think it sounds like a PITA, and may not work well in conjunction with primary materials like PLA, which may distort due to water absorption after soaking. But having not yet tried this, WTF do I know? If your print has a surface with a smooth transition, such as a nose cone for a AIM-54 Phoenix radar-guided, long-range air-to-air missile (check with your local ATF office prior to printing), it may not need the supports. My gearbox model had sharp corner transitions (shelves) and thus would need the supports, or printed in the sectional manner I did. ruclips.net/video/RMQJJd72LsQ/видео.html 3dinsider.com/pva-filament/

@@markswinford2875 Thanks for the info! I appreciate it!

Very cool. I'm in a EAA chapter in the Dayton Ohio area, no Kitfox builder but some Zenith Stol builders. If my engine project works out, I'll likely build an RV-8. Stay tuned...

Hi Mark, in the video I made I had not yet used the printer too much and I don't think I had the print resolution optimized yet. I have not used the printer in a little while since, I have moved my shop to a new location, and have spent a great deal of time over several months renovating the building. The project I bought the printer for is still very alive, just delayed. I hope to show more in the near future. I might recommend that you contact Modix, and ask if they can send you a print sample with the highest resolution it is capable of, and what the print speeds/setting were that achieved that resolution. The printers use the E3D Volcano print heads, which are well respected as far as I know, and all the other components are top notch IMO. There is no reason the printer should not be capable of matching the quality of the best printers out there like Raise3D. I first printed a test cube I modeled to check the dimensional accuracy, and as I recall the 1x2x2" block was within .020" on all sides, which I considered pretty damn good for a first attempt. As I said in my video, I got this printer to make patterns for SAND CAST patterns for molds to make a aluminum cast parts, and as you probably know a sand cast part doesn't have the smoothest finish. Thus, even some of the rougher finishes at higher speed setting are fine for me. I don't plan to have dungeons and dragons gals with swords and big boobs sitting on a shelf anytime soon. But everyone has different goals, what works for me may not for you. Hope this helps.

I recall now that for the gearbox half scale sample part I show in the video, I did not know it at that time, but I was having trouble with my first layer that was printed on top of the honeycomb. I used the default Slic3r settings, wtf better did I know at the time, and found later that with some adjustments in the layer thickness (I think) my first layer improved, so that subsequent 2nd and 3rd layer on top was much better. So the "roughness" had nothing to do with the inherent capability of the Modix machine, but as for many things computer related, came down to the programming. I hope this helps. I don't claim the machine has the best print resolution in the industry, I've never done any direct comparison. But it has the same technology as other machines use, it has top grade ball bearing linear guides, so again I would expect it compare very well with other top end machines. When the operator knows what he/she is doing! (Not sure I am fully in that category yet...)

Frankly your opinion backed by nothing but words doesn't impress me. Send us all a link of what you have going on better, since you are such an expert.

Also, your helpful responses to questions in the comment section is certainly a much appreciated breath of fresh air on RUclips.

@@ElementalBlazeShock - Thank you for your comments. I try to just present the facts.

I sold the design to Flyboy Accessories. Contact them for more info.

I had excellent experience with customer service, but some others who commented had some issues they reported. I think Modix will stand behind their product.

110V. The heater for the bed probably draws the most current during use.

Thanks for your comments. I live in Centerville (just S of Kettering) and have a business in Kettering. So you may see me on a regular basis!

Hi Aurel, I am not familiar with the other printers you mention, and so I can not really answer your questions. I am still very happy with my unit, but concede there may be some other competitive options for you to consider.

Hi John, I am still very happy with the Modix Big 60. I haven’t followed what large format printers have come out since, so I don’t know how the Big 60 compares to the current crop, but I would think it is still a very competitive option. My primary need for the printer is for casting patterns that will fit in the 24” cube envelope. I am not quite ready to print the patterns for an engine design I have in CAD, so I have not yet started to make the larger parts with the printer I intend to. But I know the printer will do what I want to do when I need to do it. I will have a new youtube channel for this project when the time comes, and show the printer use more then. For the casting patterns I will need, they will fit in the Big 60 envelope, and have relatively thin walls of less than .25” (6mm) in most areas. The main casting pattern I need is a gearbox housing, and it will have several step-downs that can’t be filled with Honeycomb (as a solid animal figure for example). So these step-downs (shelves) need to either be supported by printed support structure, or the model be split into sections. I still need to install the 2nd print head, for running more tests with printing supports from a water soluble material such as PVA. I may change to this method if I get it to all work out well. The gearbox part I show in the video is a 1/2 scale of the final pattern I need. I purposely printed the part in several stack-wise portions, then just epoxied it together. There is some potential for a slight mis-match at the seams but for my casting patterns I can lightly sand these locations. If you think you will have models that will have shelves then you might want to consider getting the 2nd print head. The 2nd head will require some calibration to the first head, but since it will likely be for support material it may not have to be extremely accurate. An advantage with planning to break up a large model into portions is this: If you mess up some part of a large model you have to either restart from the beginning or try to make a repair part, starting at the section the prior portion went bad. Then gluing the repair part after all. So in some cases just planning to split up the model lowers the overall risk. I tried to print some Carbon reinforced nylon and was not getting good results, but didn’t play with the settings since I was in a hurry, and just dropped back to PVA. You already know that all these printers require you to experiment with settings to get to your own level of acceptance. I have more to learn too. Hope these comments help.

I should also add, printing a large model using a 2nd print head will use more material, thus cost more, and take more time to print. Is it worth it in every case? Maybe not. The old foundry shop pattern makers would have drooled over the thought of printing their patterns in peices they could then glue together. My parts wont be going on display, they are means to another goal...

@@markswinford2875 Thank you very much for you feed back, good luck with your projects and look forward to seeing your new youtube videos.

I have not tried that material yet.

@@markswinford2875 Thanks.

You may have already solved the problem. I didn't remove the countersunk screws in my unit, but the top of the metric screws have a diameter of approximately 10mm. The ones I installed are also stainless steel, and the manual is showing M5 sstl, not black oxide screws, as you are showing. It doesn't really make a difference if they are black oxide or sstl, as long as they fit. Check that the thread dia is 5mm (.196"). If not, open then hole diameters up slightly. The countersinks dont have to be enlarged, as the screws dont need to be perfectly flush in the corners. The printer head will never go over the screws.

@@markswinford2875 Yes, after I posted this I realized that the the stainless screws should be used so I switched them and they still did not fit as you can see in this video. The holes on the side without the 2 corner holes are definitely smaller. ruclips.net/video/9z13UjomThc/видео.html I sent the video to Modix and they tell me that it is an error and that I should drill it out! As you know that plate is very large and heavy and it is going to be a chore to get it on my drill press and do that. I imagine that I will need lubrication to drill it as well and deal with cleaning all that up.

@@Hogarth714 I would not even bother with mounting it on a drill press. I have several cnc machining centers, and I would still just do it by hand on a work table. All you need to do is open the hole up for a clearance for the M5 screw. Just try to be reasonably straight, the plate is not too thick, so you would really need to be off at an angle for it to have any adverse affect. Do you plan to open up the countersinks too? Again I don't think you need to but you can if you want the screws to be flush. Drilling in aluminum you just need nice sharp cutters. Is it ok that the parts are not perfect? No. Modix should keep striving to achieve perfection, just like Lexus and BMW...

@@markswinford2875 Well I got that all taken care of and now I have a new issue. The instructions are not clear as I show in the video below. I watched your video carefully but could not see the 'extra' hole. You can probably answer this easily. Thanks. ruclips.net/video/tvl1Ag9stVo/видео.html

ruclips.net/video/QcYm88CLWuA/видео.html

Thanks for you comments. To be honest, I didn't think about recording the picture horizontally. Next time maybe. One reason many people might not hold the phone as you say is that it is easier to drop the phone holding it with the CG of the phone off to one side. But as for me, what wasn't mentioned is that I recorded the video around midnight, after about a 14 hour work day, and I was actually TIRED AS HELL.

What is the link to the RUclips video? Maybe I can help. I could not find the video you refer to after several searches.

@@markswinford2875 ruclips.net/video/1jpDwOuo3_g/видео.html

@@Hogarth714 - The parts you are trying to assemble are not made by Modix, they are made by E3D in England. So it is not really fair to leave readers with the impression your problems are caused by Modix. Your criticism about Modix not responding promptly might be fair, however again these are not their parts. Have you tried to contact E3D? You don't need to bother actually, I can tell you the parts do fit. What I think you are trying to do wrong is nest the plastic guide base with the aluminum spool type part. The plastic guide has a triangular stiffener that should be facing the clear plastic cover when installed, and it rests just above the gap for the aluminum spool. Try putting the parts together without the guide for test fits. All - I reinforce what I have said in the video: This assembly is NOT, repeat NOT a simple one night build with a 6 pack of Bud. You have to earn the 5K or more it would cost for someone else to assemble such a large unit. Oh, and then the additional shipping costs for such a large printer. You have to be very patient to accurately build the unit, if you want high precision of the machine. It took me about 2 weeks to build the printer, not full time work, I was not in a hurry to F it up. And you have to have some experience building more than a ham sandwich on rye. I still stand by my recommendation of this printer, but I am not a printer Dude, that has made a number of them. So who knows, there could be better value for your buck.

​@@markswinford2875 Thank you Mark for taking the time and effort to view my video and respond. I had no idea that the parts on question were made by E3D. Was this supposed to be obvious or apparent? I believe that if Modix was not able to help me with my issue then it would have been appropriate for them to direct me to whoever was in a position to, or responsible for doing so. I have never tried contacting E3D as I was not aware that of the things you have said about them. Is that something that is obvious and common knowledge? How should I have known that? Regarding the "plastic guide base" and "aluminum spool type part" I am not clear on these part names but I will attempt to work out what you are saying. I am totally clear that "This assembly is NOT, repeat NOT a simple one night build". This is the third 3D printer I have built. You may also find it relevant that I am a member of Mensa, technically oriented and have always been good with my hands. I am a technically oriented and patient person. However, as I pointed out I tried communicating with Modix for WEEKS with NO response, which constitutes poor and frustrating customer support/service where I come from. After laying out $4,700.00 for a printer PLUS an additional $1,216.22 import duty I expect better service. Are you saying that you believe attempting to contact such a company 6 times over several weeks with absolutely no response is satisfactory customer support and should not be frustrating? I do appreciate you taking the time and offering to help me with this issue, however the snarky remarks are not required nor appreciated "Bud".

@@Hogarth714 - Why don't you list your name for your RUclips ID? To be frank, I thought it was in poor taste that you trumped my recommendation with your WOULD NOT recommend statement, In advance of finishing building the printer, and based only on customer service (or lack thereof). I think you could have started your own review of how poor your experience has been, and not vent on my review. I am sorry if you have had poor customer service, I am not saying it is ok, and I would probably be frustrated too. I apologize if you construed the Bud comment was directed to you, it actually wasn't. It was a flourish that wasn't needed, and degrading to anyone with a PhD that happens to like drinking Budweiser. I was only trying to reinforce that it is not a simple build for the average person who may have trouble assembling a gas grill. As far as the extruder being made by E3D, it was obvious to me, but might not be to everyone with all the components involved. The box that the printer head parts come in it says "E3D" on it, plus the plastic cover of the extruder also has E3D molded into it. Additionally, Modix' website lists "E3D" for the extruder right next to "HIWIN" rails and "IGUS" shielded wiring, which clearly indicate a brand relationship. I don't think you would assume that Modix is making every component in the kit. My revision of the manual doesn't mention that the extruder is E3D, and it could have stated that. The manuals are pretty lengthy, but can always be improved. If you have further problems, I may be able to offer more help. I am optimistic you will like the printer despite some initial issues.

I think I recall it taking about 8 hours to print. As far as the finish goes, I think my finish is more related to the slicing program I am using rather than the printer. I have been using Slic3r, which is pretty generic, and I need to transition to Simplyfy3D.

Hi Bruce, no I haven't. Mostly because I don't have a clue what it is :) !

It is a custom mount for the RV-7 I designed and 3D printed. See this link. Flyboy Accessories will be carrying these. ruclips.net/video/F6bEqWFntOg/видео.html

When I installed the GoPro into the mount prior to flight, I turned the mount slightly to align it forward. This slightly loosened the attach screw, and on takeoff you can see the camera turn slightly. Still pretty decent video for a non-pro.

@@markswinford2875 What type of mount did you use I may ask.

It is the clear mount that came with the GoPro Hero 4 camera. This stock unit is mated to the mount I designed that mates to the vertical Stabilizer on my plane. Needs to be robust for up to 200 mph, which thus far has proven to be so.

It is easy to push the filament thru the PTFE tubing BUT, I have learned that you should pull the filament back out after using the printer, if you don't plan to use if for a few days or so. Why? It seems to get brittle inside the PTFE tube, and is prone to breaking within the tube when another print job is processed. I don't really know why this is, I suspect there might be some interaction between the different plastic types. I don't consider it a big deal, others might think it is a PITA. I also always pull out the filament when the nozzle is hot, and cut off the end which may be locally distorted at the end from the heat and thus harder to pull/push thru the tube again. Little things like this are learned by just continually trying things to solve mini problems. Hope this helps.

YW Joel! Great day to fly.

Thanks for the comments.

Are you still happy with the Modix? Currently looking for a big printer and Modix big 60 V2 or v3 might be an option for me.

Thanks Dacia. I take a no B.S. approach to this sort of thing. I hope the video helps people decide what is right for them.

Yes I am still running XP, and quite happily, because my Siemens Unigraphics cad program originally cost me $20,000 + $2,600 per year maintenance fees (add that up for 10 years), and only runs on XP. I don't go on the internet with my XP machines, they run just fine without the burden of virus protection. I don't feel like updating a program for no advantage, which was already a Stradivarius at NX4. Out of curiosity, what is the most expensive computer program you can honestly say you have purchased?

@@markswinford2875 that's a very good answer (please don't feel i was nit picking, sometimes a sense of humor falls flat on text!) Actually we have an old version of the CNC software Mach 3 on a non-networked Windows XP machine. The software does a great job on our CNC aluminum projects and the only thing we have replaced on the old Dell (an early 2000 SC400 server) is a graphics card that somehow failed.

Your answer to my answer was very good too, I see now you were being sarcastic. When I worked at GE Aircraft Engines, UG was perpetually being updated. It became a game of whack-a-mole, where did they hide the icons. I sent a bitch letter to Siemens and the next thing I know I am leading joint GE-Siemens phone calls to listen to our complaints. Some were well justified, some were lack of familiarity with the NX6 program. My NX4 works fine for me, and the only problem right now is that my assembly models are getting pretty large, and to upgrade computers I would have to run a virtual XP copy of it within Win 10 and have the IsWow64process running too, or some voodoo magic like that. My cad model sizes are starting to push me to that point.

Sorry for the late reply Mark, hope you got your payment issue resolved. FYI - I used Visa, I think many might not realize that Discover is not accepted at a lot of places in EU.

Dayton Ohio

Cool thanks , looks like a nice airport to fly out of, love the plane.

@@ceemorebuts - Thanks for the comments. Plane is real a blast to fly, nothing like a C172, which actually I always liked to fly anyway.

Mark, I cant fully answer that question, since I have not yet done the large parts I intend to do on this machine. I can say I have done many smaller parts, and the machine has not let me down. I am progressing on my design of a gearbox, for which I will need to make a casting pattern. When I get that part printed, I will post my experience.

Hi Nikola, No I had not considered the idea to change the MB, which sounds interesting. The noise doesn't bother me in my shop with other CNC machines (sometimes also running...). Actually, if I stop hearing the melodic sound of the printing in process, I know it has run out of material or some other problem. I have had an issue with the serial connection to my PC. Occasionally the print will stop in mid-print. I have since unloaded the AV software, to see if that cures the issue. I don't get on the internet with this PC anyway. Printing off a sim card solves the issue, but does not give as good of print status. Thanks for your suggestion, maybe down the road I do some upgrades to the machine.

@@markswinford2875 did you ever tried on a PC with Windows 10 installed? Also give a try to Simplify3D software that in my case I consider it the best for printing and managing files. It costs about 140$ or less for a life time license. Also try with another cable

@@nikolapetrovic4281 have the Simplify3D, have not yet used it, just due to being busy with other things. Maybe that will help. Also have not tried the another cable, but will get to that at some point too. Thanks for your suggestions!

Thanks Dad