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So true, I have a small HMO, basically 3 Bedroom house with two rooms on Ground floor, one of the room faces a garden and has a garden door for occupants to escape. the Other room faces the street and has a window that opens wide and occupant can escape via the window unless it was a disabled occupier. Then there are two more rooms on First Floor, one room facing the garden has a window that leads to a flat roof of an extended kitchen below, so the occupant of this room could if need be escape to flat roof and gradually make a way to garden by climbing down to the garden fence and so on, would not be difficult for a normal person to do so when escaping a fire. so one room facing the street may require the 30min FD30 Fire door for Fire Fighters to rescue occupier if assuming the Hallway was on Fire. All rooms have interlinked smoke detectors so a fire breaking out anywhere from Kitchen to any rooms or hallway would alert all occupiers to escape before the fire takes a full hold, so in my view many premises do not require 30Min fire doors when ordinary solid pine/timber doors could provide compartmentalisation of the smoke as long as they are fitted with self closures, Kitchen is one place that is high risk, but again I am amazed that a heat detector is specified here which will only work let us be honest when a fire has taken a big hold, so I think there are better ways to protect against kitchen fires and its earliest detection is essential, so a normal smoke detector should be fitted that has a 30 second timer to reset if should it go off due to cooking smoke, whereby it will not set off all other detectors on a interlinked circuit. So if someone was cooking and smoke from it sets off the kitchen detector, it will start sounding an alert, so the person in the kitchen can then press an easily accessible auto resettable Silence button, to stop the room detectors from tripping, the advantage here is if someone left cooking unattended and it started to burn and start to smoke , the kitchen detector would go off and if no one was in kitchen to press the silence button then all room detectors would go off alerting occupants. This way it would be easy to contain a small fire with a fire blanket or a small Fire Extinguisher, but a heat detector would need half your kitchen burned before alerting.

I'm new to this industry, I'm currently learning about the fire doors. I belive there needs to be a rating lable on the door such as the FD30 OR FD60. With out one, you have no idea what type of door this is and no idea of the manufacturer information

slightly?

9 inches is enough.. that's what she said

2 to 4mm is correct gap

Not true most fire doors have glass panels, called viewing panel there for a reason

Thanks George for your question. Yes, it sounds like the door is defective as it shouldn't be able to stay open by itself.

@@firelineuk3171Thankyou for replying. I did think it would make the door defective but couldn't say anything before I knew. Very helpful, thankyou once again

Should have door closer on it, and should close when opened, if stays open, needs adjusting, only suitably qualified person should carry out repair work to a fire door

How long does it roughly take to inspect a fire door with correct paper work to match?

Not true it's about the melting point

Report this to your local fire service, and they will check this out.

Do this today as a matter of priority, the fire service will act on this, so inform them.

Communal doors should have a self closing device, if not, that’s wrong. If a closer is installed and it doesn’t close, then it either needs adjusting or replacing to fit the required power rating for the door and the closer configuration that it will be installed in. All fire doors require a minimum of power rating/size of 3. On larger or heavier fire doors it’s a power rating of 4 and that is important when it comes to the configuration, e.g. for overhead closers you can have a frame mounted, door mounted or parallel arm configuration, each configuration needs to have the right power size for the size or weight of the door. It can be overlooked when a closer states that it’s rated for power size 2-4, when it is actually only rated to size 4 in a specific configuration. however there could be other issues as to why the door won’t close properly, that could be due to the door-frame gaps being too tight. Door-frame and door-floor gaps should be within the manufacturer’s tolerances, if these are unknown then guidance should be sought to determine what they should be. Normally no more than 4mm between door-frame and no more than 10mm between door and floor If the doors are approx 44mm (30mins) or 55mm (60mins) thick they can be presumed to be fire doors, however not guaranteed due to lack of certification labels As for the handle, I’d recommend a stainless steel ‘D’ handle, but I don’t think it’s a requirement As for the ‘twist lock’ thumb turn, this is okay, but it depends on the size of the building and what the access/egress requirements are. I think in buildings with a certain number of floors/storeys, require this type of lock/latch in the interest of quick evacuation. The idea is that its secure from the outside(no one can get in without a key) and if there is a fire, you can exit without wasting time looking for that key. A ‘split spindle’ handle could also be installed (however this can be a problem with kids being able to open the door from the inside by just pulling the handle down, and also a security issue if the handle is located near a letterbox (which should also be fire rated), in this case a secondary security device would be needed which must be approved by the fire door manufacturers as ok to install on their door(whilst retaining the fire door integrity and subsequent certification), these can be things such as: a sliding bolt lock out of a child’s reach, a security chain, or a security cowel over a letterbox, but again, only if it’s been approved by the door manufacturer This is all based on the UK, hope this helps :)

If you hit the enter button twice it will break your sentences up.

plain english? the guy can hardly speak it correctly.... he says "these is..." multiple times. really triggers me.

Hello Sanjay, thanks for your comment. The intumescent smoke strips need to be fitted to the door, or the frame - top and sides, not the bottom. The only way to fit them is to use a router to cut into the door or frame, to the depth of the strips (approx. 4mm). If you would like further information please give us a call on 0800 096 6761 and we will be able to help you further.

The brand ‘Trend’ do router bits specifically for intuminescent strip 10mm and 15mm wide, they are bearing guided to depth of 4mm and allows you to cut the groove whilst resting the router on the face of the door rather than the edge. If it’s an existing door you’re working on, you may need to remove any door furniture/hardware (handles, esctucions, etc) that might get in the way depending on how big your router base is, hope this helps :)

@@000iloveAvatar000 excellent information my friend. I need to router se fire doors at a care home & that will make things easy

That's a good question. I do know that you can have a maximum of 25 seconds close time on the door closers. An unqualified guess I would ask the fire risk assessor to highlight wheel chair related escape routes, ask maintenance to adjust the door closers to the best option and also cover wheel chair and disable needs with the fire wardens. My last place of work had fire wardens respable in assisting with wheel chair users in the event of evaluations