Видео

Cfe pistol is a ball powder not flake

Brass juice will strip the nickel from tthe brass if left for more than 30-60 minutes, brass being 75%copper and 25% nickel, the same happens with too much lemishine

Any feedback on this issue or have you jumped ship. I dont want to have the same issue or pay this as school fees

first of all this thing is junk, secondly there is no such thing as a double charge..... that called operator dumbass error, one pull of handle up and down and thats it, if u half cock it your the iddiot, that deserves to have it blow up your face, read the manual.... once cycle if u cant cycle it properly and u have a jam, u stop .... yes u stop and remove all shell casings and u start over again !!!! my power check is simple it has a bright green led, if its undercharged or no charge there is no light,, if u have it properly loaded u get a bright green light that u can miss even if your stevie wonder. which means gooooooooo its good move on.

really should have them stop nut on. taking em off could cause a bit of a powder mess. that powder drop can get stuck and without the nuts to force it down... MESS!

Treetopflier made a video on this 7 years ago. Im running a batch right now and its shining like new in a fraction of the time.

Any idea what caused this problem to begin with? I didnt change anything in my procedures. Has it happened again?

Ok I will try Dawn and lemon shine. Ive been using FA brass cleaning solution but it just hasnt been working.

I dont think its the dirt. Some loads I prewashed and some I didnt and they all came out shiny. This last load I did hapoen to prewash and they came out dingy after 8 three hour cycles with SS pins. I read on a forum the pins may be covered with case lube and to degrease them. I added a degreaser and the water came out milky so there must have been a lot of case lube on the pins but the cases were still tarnished. Tomorrow I will try cleaning just the pins first then have another go at the cases with clean pins.

Great video! Excited for the next review!

Thank you for the videos , I’m thinking of getting one of these … mainly 9mm . I have a Dillon 550 but want some extra stations for powder checks and bullet drops and case feeding and all the other fun toys you can do with a machine that holds 10🤣

ended up getting one. used optic kit for $3400. has been absolutely incredible

Well, I've been reloading on the blue presses for years and bought this press to give it a try. After almost a year of frustration (crushed primers and jams, with no help from the company), I gave up, unbolted from the bench and through it into the metal recycle bin.

I always run my brass for a short time (30-45 min) to remove dirt before sizing & trimming, before I run it for a longer time to clean before the actual reloading. Dawn ( or the Walmart generic version) & a bit of Lemishine with hot water, no pins. I never just let it sit for any length of time even just using this dish soap.

What bench are you using?

How tall is the X 10 from base to top? I have my reloading room in my basement, and I am constrained in my bench-to-ceiling measurements. I really want this press, but I can only work so high.

My method is: Dry tumble for 30 min. to an hour Decap Sonic cleaner for 15 min or so, with a little Dawn and Lemi Shine. Dehydrator 30 min to an hour at 165 degrees Always produces clean brass.

I have this same problem. I have exceeded the 400 round break in and still have it not get through 3 full mags. It does get hot but the gas tube is the biggest problem.

September 2024 and they haven’t fixed the issue. The same thing happened to me while I was calibrating all my dies. I didn’t apply any significant amount of pressure. I replaced the bearings on my own but I did call FA and they’re sending me out a new arm. I’m worried it would be the same cheap bearings on it. Now I’m having priming issues. My press would lock up at the priming station after several random indexes. FA is sending me another priming part as well. I haven’t even loaded 100 rounds yet. This thing has more issues than sports illustrated and playboy put together. You would think after all this time they would have fixed this by now.

The innovative features just don't outweigh the flaw's.

Do you have the third video? Thank you

Looks like we can get our hands on them for around $3700.. Looking forward to what your final thoughts are and how it compares to others

I think Reddings "Pro" 9mm carbide sizing die is one of the best if you want a carbide die. It has dual carbide rings to size 9mm brass all the way down. 9mm is a tapered case so this is very hard to do with just a 1 pc ring, I think its almost impossible. You may wanna check them out if you really want to size all your cases all the way down and U must have the rounds fit your ammo checker every time and want carbide. I think its worth paying Redding's price for this kind of quality myself. I think Fortunecookie45LC did a video on them as well.

I do believe I would never waste my hard earned money on a piece of crap like that.

So, you have 9 stations and you ha e a die that installs the bullet then cramps it at the same time, why???

Does this spill powder line the Hornady and the daa?

Flat shooting but with so many issues I feel you can make your most comfortable gun just as Flat shooting with less investment. Kool video!

What did your rounds chrono at?

Studio looks good Jim,

Here’s a tip so you dont waste time at your next range trip with the Alien. Deep clean the gas chamber with copper and lead remover. You need to use hot FMJ ammo. S&B, WWB, Federal American Eagle, Magtech, PPU, PMC are jacketed bullets. There are a lot of plated ammo that is labeled as FMJ and the plating will come off and deposit lead and copper in the gas chamber which then locks up the piston. Blazer Brass, Federal Champion, Supervel are plated but labeled as FMJ and will lockup the gun. Fiocchi is jacketed but is not hot enough to cycle it.

Jim, Did the gun heat up at all? I’ve heard they get hot, may have been nonsense.

I must admit you are pretty good when you get started on something. When you went to reloading you have gone all in. I have never seen anyone advance as quickly as you have. I have a Dillon 550 and went with it because it was dependable and had a great tool head set up etc. Never really trusted the progressives that advance themselves with a pull of the handle. I don't shoot large numbers of rounds as you do but I reload a lot of calibers and love a tool head set up. So, what I have works for me. I am glad that you are doing so well and seem to have got educated enough that you most likely are doing better with answers than a lot of the advice you get. Keep up the good work. Nice video.

I like both those presses. I do have the Co-Ax at my farm and will be getting the F-1 as well to do the things the Co-Ax does not do as well. I am working loads at my farm. I have presses at the house too more capable of loading bulk numbers of rounds better like my Dillon 550 and a Lyman turret press with 8 stations. I would suggest either of those two for doing your pistol loads if you shoot lots of rounds. Save a lot of time. The Dillon 550 is pricey but it's the cat's meow. The turret press will just get you to the next process with the turn of the handle. I use my Dillon 550 for when I load a lot of rounds in either pistol or rifle. I use my turret press for bullet pulling, removing primers or small reloading jobs for something that is not set up on my Dillon 550. I did like your video and see that you are certainly a serious shooter. I have reloaded for over 40 years and have upgraded equipment for years and still do. Frankfort Arsenal makes a lot of good products. The presses and wet tumblers are hard to beat. I have even tried their universal bullet seater. It does work as advertised but with a bullet seater often the piece that seats the bullet has to have the proper fit to the bullet to seat consistently. And I found that when I used it that it did not work as well as some other seaters that I had that came with the dies. Anyhow, thanks for your video.

What powder check are you using?

Just did this last week. Went to zero it with my 14 yrold, kinda panicked a bit with the first shots. Forgot that with both rifle and scope level, the point of impact is way low until you make adjustments. Felt kinda dumb for a minute, and then within 20 minutes, we were driving tacks at 60 yards. So much fun experiment ing with different ammo. Great day with perma smiles. Thanks for the video.

Amazing Pistol‼️ Silver PVD is available now 🔥

Can anybody help me find the water soluble lanolin I can’t find it at Amazon.

I had that same problem treid to punch out the bearing and cracked the arm all started because primers jam and primers jam because of the bent priming rod they give you clips the gear on the priming system flips primers over there is more videos coming out with the same problem looks like FA have quality control issues.

Great video Jim

Thanks for the video, and maybe the grit had a _tiny_ bit to do with the appearance, but no man, sorry, has nothing to do with the dirt and everything about leaving it in an acidic solution for too long. Now take all that brass and put it in a dry tumbler with corn cob media and some Dillon Rapid Polish or Nu-finish and it will come right back and be almost as bright as your other previous batches. My formula is 2 tbsp of Armor all Wash & Wax with 1/4 tsp of Lemi-shine and I did the exact same thing, left it sitting for over four hours after a 90 minute tumble, and it looked almost as rough as yours. The dirt and sand and grit had nothing to do with it. From that point on I never tumble longer than 75-90 minutes and have never had an issue. For really filthy range brass I tumble only in the wash & wax and no pins for 30 minutes to get the worse of it off, so I don’t have all that grit and dirt in my machine then dry then decap. Then run it for 90 minutes with Wash & Wax, lemi-shine and pins, comes out perfect. Test this yourself: tumble a batch of pristine clean brass in clean water and that brass juice stuff (I think you’re wasting $ there but your call) and leave it in overnight again, and the brass will have the zinc attacked by the acidity and look just as bad as the stuff you’re showing. That attack to the brass will make it feel like steel. Another reason I like the Armor All is the brass has a lot of slick lubricity after because of the wax residue. Nice Desert Eagle by the way! 👍

Ar

Dang I missed it!!

I just bought my reloader off amazon. It will get here next week. I thanks you both for taking me on your journey. I'm also a youtuber and I will be putting both links on my page when I do my unboxing. God bless and stay safe...

What you have shown is how you adjusted the dies?

Nice!

I'm having problems with priming. Inconsistent priming depth, I keep adjusting primer rod. Seems to be right on, and after a few some, still not flush. Sometimes, it makes a snaping noise. I'm not sure what to do. Have you had any problems?

Thousands upon thousands of rounds that way...never an issue. Ando for those that will comment that it screws with the powder...that would be wrong as well...many many many chronograph tests prove it.

You amateur RUclipsrs need to learn to stop saying UM all the dam time. Its annoying and reduces the watch-ability of the video

amnt head stamp for 223 rem. has off set flash holes which have broken my decapping pin! who makes this brass?

Thank you for turning your issue into a teachable moment