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Where did you to have it done, and how much did it cost?

Thank you for showing this.

Great video and great job coming together slowly but surely. Hopefully you’ll be able to enjoy it before the winter

The IAC on most EFI systems controls the idle speed and helps prevent stalling. My Jeep will creep up hills in first gear with my foot off the gas and it’s the iac that keeps it running. I didn’t see an air filter. That will can quiet down the whistle.

What size adapter did you use?

So … I’m far from an expert … so I could be wrong…. But I think your test equipment is giving you a misleading result. The DIGITAL multimeter is taking a sample of the voltage at some instance in time. And the way the old style stabilizer works is by opening and closing some contacts. When the contacts are closed … you get full battery voltage (~12v). When they are open … you get zip. So unless your multimeter is able to somehow show you the average voltage over time (as opposed to instantaneous). It’s just gonna look like the voltage is jumping all over the place. If you had an analog volt meter … you’d see the needle bouncing up and down as the contact inside the stabilizer open and close. Which is not to say that your stabilizer wasn’t bad. It probably was. But even if it was good … you’d probably still see values jumping all over the place.

I've been searching all of RUclips for the steps to get this dang thing off. Thank you very much for your video

I bet the clutch will be a lot smoother in release with new bushings.

This is the best Lucas to Alternator conversion video I've seen. Clear instructions, straightforward thinking, nice problem solving with escellent video shots to guide the viewer. You can save a lot of money and get a far better installation by watching this than you'll get by any of the aftermarket "kits" out there. Absolutely go with A/C Delco, Absolutely !

Bonjour, chez quel fournisseur avez-vous acheté votre habillage de coffre ? Merci

The Koni shocks you removed are not gas charged so they will not rebound from compression even when new. To adjust them you remove the bump stop, compress them and then turn the top clockwise or counter-clockwise to increase or reduce the shock stiffness. See: ruclips.net/video/u_eg9Kwv9NM/видео.html

What is the GM part that you used to connect the PCV valve to the manifold?

The clutch looks worn. Mine had ridges and I still replaced it. I also replaced flywheel with findaza. In all likelihood the rear seal is leaking too. It probably should get a sleeve on crank as well do to scoring. I let you know right now, everything leaks oil on this car.

I put a sleeve on the input shaft because even after replacing the oil seal I had a leak. I rebuilt my transmission with J type OD.

I’m pretty sure you made something to utilize the bottom port of intake manifold. Let me know if I dreamt that… lol thanks

I did the tape part but have not touched the rear of throttle body. I still have the whistle

I have this kit. You said you made something to use the vacuum port on the lower side of manifold. I can’t find that video.

It isn't necessary to remove the Seats in order to remove the Transmission. To Overhaul a transmission for some oil leaks is stupid. It should be based upon the mileage covered and how much oil is lost during that use. If it's minimal, leave it alone

Dan, check any new pressure plate to ensure it is flat. A friend just got a new one and it wasn’ t flat.

Someone did a youtube on a more permanent fix for the broken pin.

Are you going to get a plastic cover?

Keep us informed!

Optima yellow, Lumenition Ignition system (Pertronix isn't as good anymore). Nice early dual diaphragm distributor. You could upgrade to SU H6 carbs. Add an Emergency / backup hood release in case the primary cable breaks, cheap upgrade with an easy install and pays for itself if you only use it once. VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Rotate your gas cap 90 degrees (either direction) to prevent popping open in a crash (was a factory dealer notice at one time). Get a stainless steel brake line kit from Classic Tube. Stainless flex hose for brakes and clutch.

Are those the original seats for the 69? Great overview thanks 🙏

What make of fuel line, source, feet needed and connectors?

Love your videos, and it’s a good looking TR6. I’m slowly working on a ‘74, same color with black interior.

Great idea!

Very nice.

Looks great. You could use velcro between the abs and fuel tank if it does move or make noise.

Same color as my 70 Spitfire. Love Triumph.

Those alternators are pretty solid.

Thank you for this. Looking to tackle this exact job on my '73.

Beautiful work!

Looks great makes a lot more sense. Great job keep them coming

Great job as per usual!!

So did you have the oil analyzed after the switch to fuel injection to see if you still had gas in the oil ? If you have a engine driven fuel pump that where the gas is entering.

Beautiful car, thanks for sharing these points. I've been looking for the right one for years... I'm 6'2 but slender build, haven't sat in one with the roof up, but I hope I hope I can fit haha.

That’s the same alternator I am running on my TR4A. It’s been working great!

Thanks for the how to video.

I am in the middle of this conversion right now. Hoping to get it going after Thanksgiving. Probably a week or two if I need something else in the parts area.

Are you tuning the computer (Microsquirt) or talking about the ignition timing? I just bought the EFI conversion kit, looking for all info I can get.

Did you move the ignition switch, or is the 69 stock like that? If you moved it, what switch did you use, part number if you have it?

good info...thank you

of course it has all the fuell injection set up as original, lucas pump metering unit injectors ect thank you

Im in canada and have a 73 tr6 which I brought over from the Uk in 1990 I moved to canada in 1980 and eventually shipped the car over when mum passed away, it was a traumatic time haveing to deal with everything and I couldnt get waht I wanted pricewise for the car so I had it shipped over, I have owned it from new with 47,000 original miles on it, totaly rust free and was running perfectly . I had imense trouble getting it registered due to emission laws here finaly did in 1997 but didnt run properly and has sat garaged till this day , Ive never been able to find any mechanic who understood the mechanical fuel injection set up and spent hundreds and hundreds of dollars on mechanics who tried thier best but results were next to useless, I found your you tube and was very interested in what you achived with your set up and thought you could advise me on how to move forward with getting the car running again im 76 yrs old and would like to enjoy it with what time I have left on the planet pluss I have more time as being semi retired now , my email is billory14@yahoo.ca, if you have time to get in touch that would be appreciated if not I understand due to everyones busy lives regards Bill Gregory

Oh gee, I've never had parts sitting around for a couple of months before I got around to installing them. More like a couple of years. LOL

Just watching how it ran it seems to me that it would be very difficult to get the normal carb setup to run that smoothly and responsively, and even if you could a change in weather would cancel that.

I am from the UK and owned a 1970 model TR6 with 150 bhp. These early 6s always had a lumpy idle; it is believed that Triumph detuned the car to 125 bhp from the 1973 model year onwards principally to obtain a smoother tickover. Yours is beautifully smooth and sounds superb. I will be checking out your other videos to see how you carried out the conversion. Many thanks for a great post!

Thank you . I just watching several Video .Looking for a used Triumph TR6 and wanted to know what upgrades to do to it. looks like a fun car .

Which camshaft are you using?