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1:40 I’m sorry but this is correct on paper but doesn’t correlate to real life. My room is 17 Celsius at 70% humidity… I put the fan heater on to increase the temperature and keep humidity the same but that’s certainly not what happened… the temp went from around 18 to 22 but the humidity sky rocketed to 80%. Look people it’s fcuking near impossible to lower humidity whilst raising the temp without a dehumidifier. Obviously there’s endless variables but in my experience, raising the temp always raises humidity. I mean I do have 4 fat plants in my room and have only ever tried to lower/raise humidity with plants in the room so can’t speak for plant less spaces.

The reason I’m here is because I need to lower the humidity from 70 to 45/50 WITHOUT lowering the temperature. I need it to be from 23-25 Celsius sitting at 45/50% humidity but I can’t afford a dehumidifier atm-.-

I bought a new meaco arete one 20L yesterday and started to test today. After I switched it on, the reading showed 55 something humidity. I let it run for about 30mins, it still around 55, 56 but my hydrometer shows 72. I moved the machine near the bathroom after the shower, the reading showed on the meaco is still less then 60, but the bathroom hydrometer is over 75. Does it right?

My unit frosts up with a thick layer of ice on the condensing coils which then prevents it working. The room temperature is 18 degrees C so this isn't the cause. Is it faulty?

Is this man a idiot. If pond won't freeze why would this. I know the first layer of water over a pond freezes that's physics at work

Thanks for the video - very interesting. My rainwater toilet (or Project Flush as I call it) has been operational for about 3 months now. I have taken a slightly different approach because I am not particularly interested in return on investment - instead I just enjoy using "free" water when it is available. My system feeds one toilet and utilises a couple of existing 350L butts that were originally installed for summer garden watering. The system is pumped using a 12V high pressure pump designed for caravans/campers and powered from a 25W solar panel coupled with an old car battery. My toilet cistern (7L capacity) fills in approx 40 seconds (10 seconds longer than with mains water). So, during the winter period like now (January) there is plenty of rainwater for flushing. Things will change in summer of course unless I can get my wife to permit some additional water butts...

But this unit chuck out cold air which make your room colder.

Instead of using a dehumidifier, you are simply heating cold air and allowing what warm air is in your shelter to escape. That's not a very good solution in a cold climate, when heating is more expensive than a simple dehumidifier. Also, you are ignoring the high humidity in that cold air, (above 75% is great for letting black mold get into your house), then you warm it up (and the black mold grows and spreads). Water vapor is lighter than regular air (with about 55% relative humidity); if you do vent like this, open upstairs windows slightly, till the air cools, then shut them. One of the big problems is that people live in apartments and houses with "open concepts" (fewer walls and doors). There are low humidity areas, (like living rooms, without water); and, there are high humidity areas, (bathrooms and kitchens, with lots of water). Cook in a kitchen, that is vented, not an open cooking area that allows moisture into the dining area and living room, (great smells, maybe, but high humidity going everywhere); put the washer and dryer into their own room or in the kitchen (not where they dampen the entire basement or near a hallway to spread the damp into the whole house); and, vent the bathrooms, (I'd leave a bathroom fan on 24/7 to vent an apartment), as a bath, shower, sink, and toilet produce more humidity than everything else in a house.

Having brick and plaster walls helps keep the house heat in the wall while the air is exchanged in the 5 minutes of Lüften. If the house walls are low thermal capacity then the air-change will make for larger fluctuations in temperature (longer to re-warm and needing active heating). I've done a "simplified Relative Humidity (RH) 'psychrometric' chart" (can be done in Excel) showing those constant 'water' lines across the RH-Temperature chart. The equations are in the "CIBSE CPD module 7 (2009)" (web search should find it).

The cost of heating the air is high. Why not just use a dehumidifier?

I noticed in the comments a lot of people are worried about heat loss, this would be very low allowing moist air to leave the building over a short period, as there is still a lot of heat trapped within the building fabric and furniture.

Very informative explination on how humidity and condensation works. This may make sense in a cold climate, I don't think it works in a hot costal climate where during the day it is 30C+ at night it is 20C+. You will get some benefit, but the discomfort of that heat makes this impractical. Even if the same dynamics could work. Still just keeping your windows open obviously helps, but crime and other factors can make that not feasible either. I found a dehumidifier was just easier.

I've been opening bedrooms windows at Front & back plus back door for about 10 mins in morning. Humidity dropped from >65% to ~52% downstairs & 63% upstairs. I'll try opening early evening for a few mins as well.

I don't have a meter on the line to the toilet but I know that the 2 of us and our spaniel use about 120 litres a day from the water company as shown on our water meter. It's hard to compare our usage before as we had lodgers until recently and I was using a watering can to flush for a while. I would have liked a gravity system but we have so many periods with little rain in Kent and also I already had water butts to cover the drought we get in July and August.

Cold air being drier depends upon where you live.

You people who have blithely talk about keeping the room warm, clearly have no idea how the other half lives. The warmest room in my house never gets above 14°C in winter. The relative humidity ranges between 70% and 80% humidity. It's impossible to make any difference to this even with 2 heaters running which takes up the major part of my small income. I'm happy for you all that you don't have the same situation. In all my previous hinges I had a multi fuel burner and/or central heating (which I hardly used) without an efficient means of heating the situation is extremely difficult to tackle. Good bless you all and Happy Christmas!

Nope.

I contacted you a few months ago. I have actually installed a different system involving 4 x 225 linked water butts and a 12 volt Whale pump with pressure switch to suit my circumstances in the south east (less rainfall?) and toilet. The pump runs off two old motorhome leisure batteries. It's been running for 2 months now very nicely! We also collect water from 3 other roofs as well with a total capacity of 2500 litres. At this time of year I don't have to move water around much but I have a garden pump and the water butts have taps that take Hozelock fittings that allow me to switch feeder butts or attach the darden pump. Thanks for your inspiration however! Having run the system for another month or two I may put up a RUclips video of my own, though it's something I've never done before!

Great vid and super cool product. Mine just arrive today 🫡

Same problem here. Is there a way to take the plastic top off?

Cozy is specifically for people with heat pumps and the t&c s state you are only lower to switch smart tariffs every 30days

I open all windows in the morning. Then, even with a bit of sunshine get massive solar gain during the day. In the evening we have a log burner that pulls a massive amount of fresh air in the house. Zero condensation.

A lot of the comments worry about the cost of re-heating the cold air compared with running a dehumidifier. I don't know about the latter, but I've done the following calculation which might be of interest: Our second bedroom, which has a condensation problem, has a volume of 20 cubic metres. At 1.2kg/cubic meter, the mass of air in the room is 24kg. It takes about 1kj to raise the temperature of 1kg of air by 1 degree C. Raising the temperature of the 24kg of air in the room by 10 degrees C will take 240kJ. 1kWh = 3,600kJ. Therefore It should take 0.07kWh to warm the air in the room by 10 degrees C. The cost of doing this is 2p (at 30p per kWh.) Even allowing for a bit more to account for the inefficiency of the boiler, and some to reheat a thin layer of the walls and ceiling, this doesn't seem like much. Have I made a big blunder anywhere?

Make sure you keep the packaging. Else, you'll be charged £20 for them to send you a box...subject to availability..if I'm not wrong according to their manual or instruction that came with it. Mine is the Zambezzi which is a hassle with the tray spillage when pouring out water. Got fed up so bought a spare tray as my Zambezi lives in the cellar..saved a trip down there too.

Excellent explanation!!

Wish I would have seen this while I was in Germany. Crazy mold

Humidity isn't a problem if the house is kept constantly warm, if you let it heat and cool again then you will have problems. We live close to a forest and the sea, our house is around 70% moisture in winter and we don't have any problems. This guy has no idea what he's talking about.

You didn't mention about dew point. If the dew point outside is higher than inside then opening windows will make the humidy go up. The dew point is usually higher outside on really warm days and rainy days. I use my own personal weather station to give me local outside temperature and humidity readings that also gives me the dew point automatically. I can then use the inside temperature and humidy level to work out the inside dew point using a dew point calculator. However I do feel that during the winter if you open your windows even if the dew point is lower outside then you are just wasting energy and have to heat up that air again and the cost of gas and electricity is high. I use a dehumidifier and it costs about 5p an hour and helps to dry the air that in turn the house heats up faster. It is also safe to have a relative humidy level of 65% in your house. It is a bad advice that it has to be 60% or lower and scientific tests have proven this. Trust me I have never had trouble with mold or condensation or bed bugs and our house is old. 70% is where it gets too high.

I myself have begun the switch to Cosy. Providing Agile rates improve before the 12 of January, I will report back whether I am able to get back onto Octopus without issue!

you can't switch tariffs daily - only once every 30 days

Don't disagree that this is a great way to dodge the high pricing of Agile (we just swapped to Cozy, as a one off, may swap back to Agile "soon"), however I would question how long Octopus will allow this loophole to be open for if more and more people start doing it. Certainly not profitable for them!

Analogue thermometers and hygrometers are better than digital in most situations as they rarely fail and don't need batteries.

Isn't it cheaper to just use a dehumidifier, the electrical cost of running contributes to heating the house, and also extract heat from the water vapour as it condenses on the dehumidifier coils instead of transferring the heat to the cold windows or worse out the window.

These little boxes are gamechangers if you put them in the car! I have a VW Passat estate car . One fits perfectly in the centre console and i put another in one of the boot sidepockets. When i leave for work at 0530hrs no more misty/foggy inside windows on cold damp east coast winter mornings. Initially you may think they dont work as it takes a while between the 'beads' fully absorbing the moisture to the point when it starts filling the box..they do work in this scenario...and yes the scented ones do not smell of anything..but deffo thumbs up. Limited use in large rooms indoors but are great in kitchen cupboards and small closets.

This is nonsense! Just advocating to remove warm air from your house (albeit potentially high humidity), replace it with cold (albeit drier) air and then reheat the air from scratch. Waste of energy heating, discarding and then reheating air. The most cost effective way to deal with high humidity is a dessicant dehumidifier. Low running cost, will remove excess moisture from air making it easier to heat and less humid. Unless you have heat recovery positive pressure ventilation, this idea is ridiculous. Best to insulate and draught proof as well as possible, rely on momentary door openings and trickle vents in windows to exchange fresh air, and manage humidity with a dessicant dehumidifier. Any other suggestion for comfortable cheap living at lower temperature where dewpoint can become problematic is just clickbait!

this is a good idea but it's not quite right. 100% humidity doesn't automatically equal condensation. condensation can happen at 10C, 17C or 24C - it depends on the dew point. Your point about cold air being drier is absolutely correct though.

i have just bought a pack of four and i know you are not suppose to peirce the white lid BUT a friend said she pokes some tiny holes in the white lid with a tooth pick and it absorbs much faster :) so im going to try it in my laundry room.

i love how you say "fresh air" instead of "freezing air". this might be a good idea in germany, but britain has MUCH higher gas prices.

Excellent advice, but have you ever heard the mainstream media tell people this clearly? Also, drier air is easier to heat, despite the heat you lost venting the house.

Thanks for running this test and posting. That is not a lot of moisture over the periods mentioned. A good sign is if no condensation on the windows. I would be curious what your thoughts are after viewing the video below - how to benefit from relative humidity: ruclips.net/video/7NEHRdLGX-A/видео.html Good luck, I hate the damp - makes you cold in Winter and overheat in Summer!

Repost since I missed one of AI many word swaps! Got dehumidifiers running almost 24/7. In closed rooms with little use I'm still taking over 1 litre a day out. This way I'm drying down the room more than 10 mins + residual or whatever and avoiding having to reheat. I run meters too and the rate of rehumidifying is fierce! Faster than the rate of a 20 litre Meaco in one room can reduce it. Bearing in mind that size of unit is aimed at a small house, not one room. Your idea of good if the inherent dampness of the building is low. My dehumidifiers are slowly taking out less and less. Slowly!

This is cheap crap. Waste of money and time. If you want a dehumidifier buy a normal dehumidifier. The best one is from Meaco.

I live in northern Ireland,where average humidity outdoors (over a 12 month period) is 90% inside my house over 80% if I run a dehumidifier all night I collect around 10 litre water a night . Humidity may be down to 70-75%.i sleep even in winter with my window open ! Living in this shit hole is a nightmare! Rain and storm 300+ days a year

Lol but if you dropped your house temperature to 5 to 7°c by opening all the windows to heat it back up to about 21°c would cost a lot more than running a dehumidifier to get rid of the extra moisture. 😂

We live by a forest a mile from the sea and hover around 70% humidity, we don't have any mould anywhere because we keep the temperature in all rooms above the dew point. Simple. We don't have mechanical extraction either.

My arete 1 doesn't have a handle to empty it

Tried this, and rh went from 62% to 60% after 30 mins - so, in the real world it doesn't work

Great explanation... but just get a decent size dehumidifier. If your house feels damp it will take around a month to dry out the walls of your home. Letting out all the heat every night is going to add significantly more to your energy bill than a dehumidifier running cost, and such a strategy is not going to be able to cope with the amount of moisture cooking and drying washing creates. I got one recently and it's made a huge improvement to our home's comfort.

Do you like your 25l

Does the RH on the sensor match the RH on the Meaco unit?