Видео

no special tool needed ,rear axle does the job

Easier if you put the back wheel on the ground, put bike in gear. Then you can remove & tighten the nut w/o engine rotating.

Hi! Can you tell me if the fairing that covers the rotor is supposed to get hot while running? I had problems with mine before where it was shorted to ground and did not generate so I'm afraid it might have been caused by the heat. Let me know if you can. Thank you.

Where did you get all your parts? I have a 1980 cm400t that needs a new alternator and i can't seem to find one. I'm new to bikes and don't know where to look

Ever heard of a torque wrench? Misuse of a wood working hammer! No gasket.

I got some really go stuff off RUclips

I got some really go stuff off RUclips

The alternator has to be torqued down to 60-70 ft lbs. How do you recommend doing that since it's freely spinning?

en español seria bueno

WARNING. I followed the video and my alternator came loose in 600 miles destroying my new alternator, stator, brushes, and brush plate (a new brush plate is really hard to find since Honda discontinued it). SOLUTION: Get Blue Loctite and a torque wrench. Cover the threads with Blue Loctite and torque the bolt to 70 ft. lbs. I've had no issues in 3,000 miles. The bolt tightens in a clockwise direction and the crankshaft also turns in a clockwise direction which means with the engine turning clockwise, that motion is constantly trying to loosen the bolt. You can test by using a ball point pen. Hold the top of the pen facing away from you in left hand by thumb and forefinger and hold the bottom/tip of the pen in right hand using thumb and forefinger. Now, turn the top of the pen clockwise (crankshaft rotation) while holding the tip of the pen where it cannot move. The pen will unscrew itself. With the constant spinning of the crankshaft clockwise you MUST use Blue Loctite on the bolt threads and I recommend you set the torque at the higher end (70 ft. lbs.) of the recommended scale (58 - 72 ft. lbs.) or you could have a disaster like I suffered.

why didnt you just smacked the bolt instead of getting a special part for it?

This video was a life saver. Thanks for taking the time to post it, you saved me a lot of time.

"I couldnt wack it and hold on to the camera...." lol

I needed one of those 22 years ago!

Thank you soooooo much !

Yes, they can. I've heard Jim Parrott does a very good job on rebuilds; his site is tpe-usa.com. He'll rebuild yours or sell you a rebuilt one for about $90. I know some folks rebuild their own, but I'm not one of them.

Thanks. I muffed around a bit before I finally figured how to get the rotor off. Yes- that's the stator inside the cover. I did replace the rectifier/regulator; the connections were severely corroded and I wasn't getting the correct response to the tests.If you need the tool, I'll loan it to you, although it's not too expensive to buy. Mr. Bookout (commenter below) has it now and I thinks he's probably finished using it.

You make this look easy! Inspires a lot of confidence in a motorcycle maintenance noob like myself. You even have the same multimeter as me. :) I think I may have to do this to my 1980 cb750k. It's not charging the brand new battery that's in it. That's the stator inside the cover, correct? Also did you replace the rectifier/regulator?

Yes, it's a bolt. I'm the nut...

Bolt. Not nut... :)

This dude is great and VERY HELPFUL! Please subscribe to him.

I would think as long as the threads match, and you can "bang" on the end, it should work. I know that some people use the rear axle off of certain models. I'll loan you mine if you promise to send it back. Send your address to me at (rittercon at yahoo dot com)

I ask cause from the video and what I can find online picture wise it appears like a simple hollow bolt

Can u use a screw with the same tread and deminsions vs the puller I'm on a very tight budget

The Stator should have between 0.4 Ω and 0.5 Ω resistance between any pair of yellow wires and no continuity between any yellow wire and ground. Some rewound stators have been found to be higher in resistance, closer to 1 ohm between any pair of yellows, and still work fine. Stator voltage - measure AC volts between any yellow to any yellow wires on Alt/Stator connector (~8 to 15 VAC) while the engine is running at a respectable RPM

thank you

No difference that I can perceive, other than it works fine.The rotor shows 3.6 ohms resistance between it's two copper slip rings, meaning it has somewhat less resistance than OE rotors, which usually show between 4-5 ohms.

Have you noticed a difference with the higher gauge wire?

I got my last one online from Rick's Motorsport Electrics. New ones are $180 us and rebuilt are $205 us. The rebuilds use a heaver gauge wire, which they say is the reason for the higher cost.

Very nice video. I've not had good luck with aftermarket rotors, but I was still able to buy one from Honda 2 years ago. Cost $500 cdn, but still working great after 30,000km. If you can't find a puller the thread chaser for automotive oxygen sensors works too. I have also taken the rear axle out and used it, but this is alot of extra work and the long axle bolt flexes quite a bit.

awesome video thank you, about how much did it ccost and where did you get it from, i think i need one on my 81

I can't say for sure, but you might want to test your regulator/rectifier. The R/R converts the alternating current from the alternator to direct current and regulates the charge to the battery at 14.5 volts with 1-3 amps. I'm not sure how many raw amps the alternator puts out; 7 might be OK

My new Rick's Motorsport rotor showed 3.6 ohms resistance between the two slip rings on the rotor. Rick's told me that they use a heavier wire than OE rotors, which causes a lower reading (typically 3 - 3.5 ohms). OE rotors usually show between 4-5 ohms.

Yes, they did. They sent me a replacement rotor, but it also failed after 3 weeks. They then refunded my money. I have no complaints against Electrosport, as far as customer service is concerned.

Did Electrosport honor their 1 year warranty? Is the $30 price difference between the two worth it? Thanks

Nice vid! I uploaded a vid on my channel for the CB650, which rotor is on left side. I used the rear axle as a puller to remove rotor. Saved me $20!

The stator, which doesn't move, wraps around the rotor, which does move. You can see both at minute 1:50 in the video. The Stator is on the left, inside the alternator housing. The rotor is on the right, attached to the crankshaft. FYI- rotors go bad a lot more often than stators. Test your rotor as shown in the video at minute 2:00 (bad rotor) and again at 7:20 (good rotor).

The Clymer manual. The part number (07933-4250000) is on page 197 and the picture (Figure 11) is on the next.

which book are u using for ilustration on minute 4:15..? a clymer one or honda service shop repair manual?

You got to whack it!!! love it!

Check out Milwaukee Cycle Parts they sell rebuilt ones and so far I havent had any trouble. They ask for a exchange which will save u 50 bucks if not they sell for $229.00

I bought the first rotor from Electrosport, but it failed after about 2 weeks. I got another from Rick's MotorSport Electrics and it has worked fine. Both companies are online. By the way, Rick's uses heaver gauge wiring than the OE rotor from Honda- it has lower resistance and supposedly works better and lasts longer. You might try that. Good Luck

I need to replace the rotor on my 83 Nighthawk 750. I've pseudo-rewound the rotor by recoiling on top of the old winding but it seems that I used too small of a gauge. I'm going to try with a larger gauge and potentially rebuilding the rotor properly. Where did you get your rotor from? I was wondering in case my cheap fix fails and I need to simply buy a fresh one.

Thats probably true but mines an 82 cb750sc and the rear axle worked for me and the guys at Milwaukee cycle parts. Thats where I got my rebuilt rotor so if this one fails in time I will have to get a new one from Honda. Its apparently a dealer part.

If no spark, try replacing the #3 wire with a different one (doesn't need to be new for this test). If still no joy, the issue is in the ignition, not the plug or wire.

Try pulling the # 3 spark plug wire, attach it to a loose spark splug and then ground the plug threads to the motor at some spot where you get a good ground. Make sure the bike is in "neutral" gear, turn on the ignition and crank the motor. You should see a spark emanate from the plug head (center electrode) to the end electrode ("L" shaped metal piece at the end of the plug).

so i got my puller and i couldn't get it off. Then I realized the bike was in neutral, lol. Put it in gear, whacked it 3-4 times, and voila! Off and charging! Thanks 100x!!

So happy that the video helped you. I am not a pro, but have learned lots by watching RUclips videos. Thought I would do my own contribution. Regards-

rittercon, you have no idea how much your video helped me today. I have a 1981 cb750k that wasn't charging. I tested the rotor and was getting 1.1 OHMs on my meter. My new (used) rotor came today and I couldn't get it off for the life of me. I ordered the puller with the part number you gave me and in 3-4 business days I will be rolling! Thank you SO much!