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@@jorgemanuel6866 I think the Yamaha YDS150 uses a normal acoustic saxophone mouthpiece and reed so you should be able to do vibrato on that, but don't know if you can or not.

That's interesting, I get nothing like 2 hours out of NiMh rechargeables. I'd be interested in what make and capacity your rechargeables your are.

@@noskanow Hi, when I play with the batteries I play really quietly and they are brand new energizer batteries. Maybe after a bunch of charging cycle they'll last less. But for now it's OK.

@@MegaKouto OK, but what capacity are your energizer batteries. I have 750mAh rechargeables in mine and they last only minutes on a full charge.

I can't comment on anything which concerns adjusting the power of the rifle. Higher power doesn't mean better accuracy, in fact it can mean the opposite. I don't care what the power is, I want accuracy and I regularly get a 10mm group at 30 metres with mine at 10.8 ftlb which is fine by me.

The brand is LEKATO. Be careful if you're buying them. They do two models and you want the one with the changeable tip where the 6mm jack plug unscrews and comes off to reveal a 3.5mm jack. You'll want the 3.5mm jack on the transmitter for the YDS 120 and the 6mm jack on the receiver for your amp or audio interface if you're recording. I think the dual tip model is the WS-60, but check that out before buying.

@@noskanow Thank you

spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk/product/walther-rotek-rotex-rm8-full-o-ring-seal-kit/

@@noskanow Thanks

The YDS 120 doesn't have Bluetooth.

@@noskanow Noted. Thanks. That's very unfortunate. Not providing Bluetooth and rechargeable batteries on an improved version of the YDS series, are two of the dumbest decisions Yamaha took!

The YDS120, unlike its predecessor the YDS150, does not have Blue Tooth.

Thank you for your reply. Duly noted. Is that a wireless mic you attached to the YSD120?

@@Hungtube1 It's not a microphone it's a transmitter. Plug that into the YDS and plug the receiver into the amplifier. More usually used for guitars , but works perfectly well here too.

@@noskanow Thank you so much for your reply.

@@davesanderson703 Yes of course it can. Most regulators of this kind can be adjusted either to a sweet spot which on mine is 10.7ftlb which gives me deadly accuracy up to 40m, or up to illegal power. I'm not going to say how because I don't want to help anyone to do the latter.

@@noskanow ah right ok that was my next question on how do i adjust it just mines firing at 9.3 ft

@@davesanderson703 Sorry, But I'm not going to say on here how to adjust the power.

You don't need to know O ring sizes. Buy the complete set and replace them size for size as you go. spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk/product/walther-rotek-rotex-rm8-full-o-ring-seal-kit/

Thank you

Don't think so, and you can't use the tuning function because it hasn't got the range to pull transposing saxes into concert pitch. Good point though, it seems like a C Melody sax isn't catered for.

Using the YDS Controller program installed on your smartphone, you can transpose the sound to any key and save it in the instrument’s memory. I created user instruments for playing the soprano in concert pitch.

Yes I might get round to doing that. It's down to the motors and props on this little model, they're not up to what I'm asking of them. Nothing here has cost anything though, all the voltage reg parts were in my bits and bobs box, and it's only cost a couple of hours in time, so disappointing for sure but not shedding any tears over it! My 'Nessie' models has packed up which was my main concern to be honest and it looks like the ESC has died so want to get that fixed now.

Thank you. I've bought a 4S 1000mAh lipo which fits in the boat and as a bonus it weighs about the same as the AA pack. So off to the boating lake on Sunday when my club is having a RC boat day and there'll be everything from the Titanic to submarines, so they may need a lifeboat! I'll tweak the voltage while I'm there hopefully to get a nice bow wave going and I'll post the video when it's done.

@noskanow I was going to suggest making your own from Vape batteries, although there are less laying around nowadays.

No I haven't. Theses seals were a really tight fit and I didn't put any lubrication on, they went in dry.

Not really. There are just two O rings on the barrel which should pull out under moderate pressure. You might try putting a couple of drops of silicone oil around the joint and leaving it upright to seep in for an hour. As far as I know the barrel should just pull out, there are no other restraining mechanisms, just the pin you've knocked out.

@@noskanow Thanks for the reply Peter, I thought as much, I'll give the oil a go, thanks again.

Sorry, I'm afraid I don't know what you're referring to.

I had a VL70m back in the '90s and from what I remember I don't see how it could be connected to it. There's no MIDI out from the YDS120 and there are only two ways into it. There's an AUX IN 3.5mm jack plug and as far as I can tell all that does is play an audio input over the internal speaker or headphones. The other way in is via the micro USB connector and this is used to connect to a device which is running the YDS120 App produced by Yamaha and available from Play Store. I've got the app on my mobile phone and when connected it allows you amongst several other things to load synth voices into the custom voice slots. I haven't explored that function because I'm not interested in doing that and I think it's pretty restricted for the kinds of things you're looking to do with it.

I got it. Thanks for your response. It does not have any Bluetooth either. I think Yamaha really need to think about their products . Have a good day Sir.

To connect the YDS 120 to the VL70m you need the USB to MIDI interface. I am using KENTON (MIDI USB HOST). Set the display to CRL mode. Connect the USB output of YDS 120 to the USB input of the interface. Using a MIDI cable, connect the MIDI output of the interface to the MIDI input of the VL70m. Perform transposition on VL70m

@@ewitor9547thanks this really helps

Hi. Because there are so many different types out there, please can you tell me which portable power pack you are using? Great tutorial, helped me a lot.

Good luck!

Yes I too found the octave key a bit troublesome initially. It's positioned about 45 degrees right of centre and even though it's 20mm long it has to be pressed in the middle to activate its digital switch, if the octave touch piece is pressed at its ends the digital switch will not activate. This means that your thumb must be a long way over to the right all the time and I sometimes failed to activate it until I got used to it. It's just a case of being aware of this feature and working with it in the same way you might have to do with a new acoustic saxophone, you have to get used to it.

@@noskanow thanks for that and yes I will persevere because I do love it. Just a shame that Yamaha never thought of improving it after the YDS150. Especially something so crucial as that! Happy playing.

Thanks glad you like it.

Good luck with your studying. I didn't mention in the video but headphones work very well with it.

Thanks Andy, fair point and good suggestion if anyone has to buy the thread locker/sealant. I happened to have a bottle of Loctite thread lock so used it and the gun is still leak free, but as you say, getting the reg cap off again if required might be a struggle!

www.ussrhouse.co.uk/products/embossed-ornament-black-leather-rifle-sling-shotgun-air-gun-strap-hunting-shooting?variant=42384924967071

Thanks so much.

You remember those two grub screws I said not to touch............

To lubricate the O rings. You could use silicone oil too, but in either case only a very very light coating on each O ring before they are put in place.

@@noskanow thanks, that's great

For the love of god dont use vasaline!! It degrades orings!! If you want your repair to last longer than 6 months use silicone grease only!

Hear what you say and respect your view but.........2 years on and the gun is holding pressure fine, I shoot it every week at my club and no problems at all with the replacement O rings. If the O rings were still made of rubber then I'd agree with you, but these are neoprene and petroleum jelly is fine with neoprene.

drive.google.com/file/d/1NpreAGdlDoNSNlr8xiKE1s58yrumn_8v/view?usp=drive_link Hi, nice to hear from you. My boat Maggie is an 18ft GRP open day boat. She's 40 years old and so is the engine which is a Volvo Penta MD1B. This is me coming into my harbour in Cornwall UK after a nice day out. It's a hobby for me, I'm not licensed to fish for shellfish so I'm restricted to how many I can land in a day. It's just good fun after a day's fishing to haul my pots to see if I'm taking lobster and crab home with the fish.

I hope you mean £156!

Also, why not open it from the focuser end and not touch the lenses at all if there is debris in there...Which there always is with a ton of Sky-Watchers.

Glad i saw this comment and didn't try taking everything apart to remove mould which luckily was not between the lenses.

The fill port has two O rings in it, one at the top and one buried right down at the bottom. Did you replace both?

@@noskanow yes replaced the one at the top but did not see the one at the bottom mind really frustrated mind as the air dose not seem to be going in the bottle but straight out the top of it

@@johndoherty8681 You need to replace both of them on the fill port. The fill probe has two O rings on it as well. Have you checked them?

Click on the picture. spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk/walther-2/walther-rotek-rotex-rm8-r8/

@@noskanow yes changed them two , I have orders a full new seal kit for it so I think I will strip the gun right down again and replace them all and grease them all right up