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It really just looks bigger than it is. I and many others are surprised how small it actually is when unboxing and holding it the first time.

Yes, the DZO Vespid Prime 35mm. As shown in the video.

Thank you, im really liking it so far. On B&H it currently sells for $2,995

yes, the 12bit BRAW is a beast and that in a small but also very rigabble box shape like the pyxis, was really the selling point for me.

@@wallenboeckfilms agree 100%, camera ‘ shape is super flexible for rigging which is also a big + for me too. For people complaining about rolling shutter, damn, there is no perfect camera. For action heavy scenes I’d pick either ronin4d or action5, which’s capable of producing very flex and post production friendly dlog format and have all action ready specs. For run’n’gun scenarios I’d stick to Sony ecosystem, imo they rule this field . Each tool has its own place and usage, period

@@sasqwatch35mm It's DLog M, not DLog, afaik. That was a big turn off for me for the Action 5.

​@@wallenboeckfilms hallo what a price black magic 6 k????

Thank you, appreciate it! Yeah can't wait either, already did some small tests indoors and am very happy so far.

Damn you snuck in there lol

@@wallenboeckfilms How you liking the Pyxis?

@@directorhenley a lot so far. i have yet to get out and film some proper stuff with it. i have to say tho the build quality and feel is really premium

I got the Location Recording Kit which includes all the shown gear.

@@Samiam-mu5ln tell me how a normal question is copy paste? It‘s literally the topic of the video. The question i was asking myself for weeks because i wasnt always 100% sure of the preorder. I wanna se you comment that then under every video of all the tech channels when a new smartphone etc. releases. You make no sense, thank you for the view and engagement, helps out my channel a lot. :)

Hello art expression and cinematography.

@@wallenboeckfilms Yeah, as I kept watching I realized that you were just exploring atypical compositions. Which is fine, It's important to try new things.

@@SimplestUsername appreciate that you kept watching! i find that more interesting for a short video like that than a typical talking head setup. and yeah, i also wanted to try something new

?

I can see that point but i dont mind the side monitor at all. I think an onboard monitor of some kind is a neccessity. and it doesnt really matter where it sits or how big it is, since its suposed to be used for settings and as control view. Hopefully with the Pyxis Monitor connected you will be able to turn on and off the sidescreen when not needed.

The side monitor makes perfect sense for cinematography, but makes no sense for videography. A cinematographer works with assistants; a crew. A cinematographer (Director of Photography / DoP) has AC’s, one of which has the job of adjusting settings, and it’s very convenient for them to be able to stand close to the camera with their own monitor whilst doing so. In fact, DoP/Cinematographer is such an overseeing role that they don’t even have to operate the camera; they can have their own camera operator. While the Director _directs_ the DoP, the DoP him-/herself _directs_ the photography and its relating crew members (light, operation, etc.). This is very different than run-and-gun one-man photography, and the side monitor is stated by BMD to be an AC monitor.

@@whengrapespop5728 Exactly, the Pyxis was never solo operator first. It is meant for small to medium production work, or Broadcast environments where the camera is mostly static. There you will always have an AC. But you still can easily use this camnera as a solo filmmaker especially with the Pyxis Monitor it will be really nice. I will use this camera for solo filmmaking a lot as well jsut bec there isnt always produciton work with smaller groups. No matter what use case, you are gonna be attaching an external monitor anyways.

so when i have a passion that i made to my profession i am not allowed to talk about this topic on my RUclips chanel? When i literally only talk about things i own or wanna own to share my experiences and opinions with like minded people? So to you every single tech chanel on RUclips, let alone any chanel talking about consumer products, is redundant? And how would you even assume im not creating stuff outside of RUclips? Interesting opinion, thank you for sharing.

I agree, thats the one thing that was keeping me positive with my decision to preorder. Because its an existing sensor that people love the image from, me included. So that was one thing to rely on. Adding it being a box styled camera that can be rigged out to your exact needs, the build quality, the new battery type, the media type and everything else makes it just as perfect as it gets for that price IMO.

"Old" sensor = Reliable. Also it's not the sensor that makes an image but also the electronics. Despite being an "old" camera, the Ursa Mini form 2018 still produces some of the most beautiful images I've seen.

@@sergiomartinez5946 Agree! It would take way more for a sensor to be "old" than being released couple of years ago. It's still fairy 'new' technology and packed in a new polished body like the Pyxis makes it a really good combo.

That's true. I always just wanted the image quality of the bm cinema 6k in a more riggable body with better battery solution and good IO. The Pyxis is exactly what i wanted 4-5 years ago. Yeah tough times if you preorder now, when even i have a hard time when preordering months ago.

That's such a good point.

Thank you for your comment! I think i will be more than happy with the Pyxis comming from the Sony A7iii. Im really exited for the superb color science and the 6k 12bit BRAW. The form factor is really nice aswell and perfect for the work im aiming for doing with this beast. Im really looking forward.

The Ursa G2 is the closest you can get to an Alexa.

@@keshhh i don't know much when it comes to comparing to an Alexa but i've heard many times that you can match BRAW really good with Alexa footage. I know someone that owns an Alexa 35 and he meant that no camera to date comes even close in direct comparison but if he would choose one for comparison it would be Blackmagic.

@@wallenboeckfilms your friend is probably right. I was speaking more about the performance of the Ursa compared to the Pyxis. The Ursa has a much faster (and therefore comparable to the Alexa) sensor readout speed as well as internal ND filters.

​@@keshhh yes, i agree the performance of the Ursa does compare much better than the Pyxis'.

First of all, i appreciate your comment. Autofocus is a blessing thats true, but it can also be a curse, especially as a cinematographer. I do agree tho that it does take away always worrying about if your shot is always in focus. That's why i have been forcing myself the last couple of months and since i knew im swapping to a video oriented camera like the Pyxis to mainly shoot with manual focus to just get used to it and become better at it also. Win win. I still think that investing into a lidar system will benefit me and you cant go wrong with that. To the banding.......yes im tired of 8-bit. Im experienced enough now that its really starting to limit myself in post, so im really looking forward to the 12bit 6k BRAW, which is just more than better.

Get yourself the DJI lidar focus pro system

@@hexotech5202 i will definitely look into that system from dji, thank you.

Ich finde es gut. Ist ein gutes Videostativ für leichte bis mittelschwere Rigs.

Okay, habe eine vollausgebaute Fx3 sollte ungefähr wie bei dir sein vom Gewicht. Wie heißt denn das Modell vom Stativ genau?

@@Inframe_cine Ja, das sollte aufjedenfall ausreichen. Mein gesamtes Rig ist auch recht schwer. Hier ist der Link zu meinem Modell: amzn.to/4cVVyei Ist ein Affiliate-Link also würde mich und den Kanal unterstützen, solltest du dich dazu entscheiden das Stativ über den Link zu bestellen. Lg, Mathias

Glad i could help.

The Tilta Mirage Matte Box comes with a 67/72/77 and 82 mm ring adapter so it wont fit on the 55mm filter size of your Sigma 18-50. But there might be 3rd party ring adapters adapting to 55mm.

Yeah, that would be awsome but even more expensive.

@@itswysdumb I‘m glad the video was an inspiration for you. Appreciate it and good luck on your journey.

Thank you! Appreciate your feedback.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Oh boy, we've all been there! Enjoy it

Glad you are liking it. Thank you!

Sure the bag is about 12x12 cm with a height of 18cm.

Appreciate the comment. I noticed after the fact. The background is white tho hence white wouldnt be the best choice either, but definitely something bright i agree.

About 500€. But currently they are a bit cheaper on Amazon.

Hi, thank you for your comment. Honestly I never heard of this specific problem before and never had any issues myself. But I just research this topic and you are in fact right that there might be a slight chance of this happening when a camera rig with multiple devices is powered by the same one V-Mount battery. Though you should be fine when using original cables and not third party cheap ones but better safe than sorry. Thank you for letting me know I will definitely make sure to connect and disconnect the cables the safe way from now on.

@@wallenboeckfilms i was using all komdor blue cables and probably thats why the rig was fine and only the d tap splitter fried . Iv used my rig without knowing about this for months and never had any problem , than all of the sudden I was showing my setup to my friend and the monitor fan turned on when i hit the power button but than stopped. Iv checked whats wrong tried a different monitor , no power . Tried a different battery , nothing. Tried it without the splitter and worked fine , so the splitter fried itself probably because of this.

@@poti732 im using kondor blue cables as well. good to know i will have an eye when using splitters etc. in the future. Thanks for sharing your experience.

@@wallenboeckfilms kondor blue is very realiable , probably the reason why nothing else was fried. Also their support offered to replace the D tap splitter , they are the goat.

@@poti732 thats nice of them. yeah so far really happy about their products.

Thank your for the comment 😄I just added all the Links of the Gear I currently use to the discription.

Sehr schön. Ich wünsche viel Spaß, ist wirklich schön dort. Wir waren letztes Jahr im Februar.

Hallo, vielen Dank für deinen ausführlichen Kommentar. Vorweg, ich selber benutze den externen 4k Monitor rein als Video clean feed, sprich ohne jeglicher Info-Anzeige. Dies sorgt natürlich für einige Probleme, wie du schon beschrieben hast. Das einzige was mich am meisten daran immer stört ist, dass so etwas wie der AF-Fokuspunkt nicht auf dem Monitor angezeigt wird und ich somit immer auf den schwarzen Monitor der Kamera schauen und schätzen muss wo der Fokuspunkt hingehört. Das trifft jedoch nur auf den Autofokus zu und meisten umgehe ich das Problem indem ich versuche den Fokuspunkt vor einer Aufnahme richtigzustellen, da beide Monitore das Bild anzeigen, solange keine Aufnahme läuft. Kleiner Tipp: es ist einfacher, wenn man den Fokuspunkt auf einen Punkt des 3x3 Rasters legt, da sollte in den meisten Fällen sowieso das Subjekt im Bild sein. Deinen Punkt mit dem manuellen Fokussieren habe ich nicht verstanden. Was genau hat der manuelle Fokus mit dem externen Monitor zu tun und warum fällt der AF komplett weg? Manuell Fokussieren funktioniert soweit ich in Erfahrung gebracht habe ohne Einschränkungen, da man ja den Video feed am Monitor sieht und der Monitor ja auch die Funktion Fokus-peeking hat. Somit war manuell Fokussieren bisher nicht wirklich ein Problem. Alternativ habe ich schon bei vielen Cinematographern gesehen, dass sich diese die Info auf dem externen Monitor anzeigen lassen. So lassen sich alle Einstellungen sowie Fokuspunkt, usw. problemlos einstellen. Der Nachteil ist eben, dass es keinen clean feed gibt und links und rechts am Monitor schwarze Balken sind, sowie die Auflösung nur max. 1080p ist. Ich denke viele gehen trotzdem mit der Option, da ihnen beim Filmen nicht unbedingt die max. Auflösung usw., sondern eher einen guten Überblick über Komposition, Inhalt des Bildes, Belichtung, Farben, usw. zu haben wichtig ist und dass man zusätzlich einfachen Zugang zu schnellen Einstellungen behält. Mit einem Handy als externen Monitor habe ich noch keine Erfahrung gemacht. Mir wäre der Bildschirm zu klein, aber ich kann mir vorstellen, dass das für viele eine gute Lösung sein kann. Liebe Grüße, Mathias

@@wallenboeckfilms Das mit AF fällt komplett weg, war so gemeint, dass erstens der Augen-Autofokus deaktiviert wird bei 4K mit externem Monitor und dass das Display ja schwarz wird und man dann (wie du schon meintest) nur noch grob schätzen kann, wo jetzt die Person im Bild steht. Also entweder externes Display (um sinnvoll manuell fokussieren zu können, weil das mit dem internen Kameradisplay absolut keinen Spaß macht) und kein / stark eingeschränkter AF Oder kein externes Display, volle AF-Funktionalität aber 0 manuelles Fokussieren. Mein Problem an der Sache ist, dass ich permanent rum laufe und die Person vor der Kamera auch, daher kann ich nicht wirklich vorher einen Fokuspunkt im Bild festlegen. Und während der Aufnahme dann wild rum drücken auf dem Display und hoffen, dass ich den Kopf der Person erwische / erwischt habe, ist auch nicht das, was ich mir unter "Spaß bei der Arbeit" vorstelle, wenn du verstehst. :) Also, es ist mir sehr wichtig, dass mir das Ganze Spaß macht und zum Experimentieren einlädt und nicht frustriert, weil einfach alles nur ein wildes Rate- und Glücksspiel ist. OK, ja, das mit 1080p und dafür Infos auf dem Bildschirm ist halt in der heutigen Zeit vermutlich nicht mehr richtig brauchbar, da alles und jeder so geil auf 4K ist. Ich weiß auch nicht, wie gut / schlecht ein 1080p Video hier hoch skaliert auf RUclips z.B. aussehen würde. Ich selbst hab nur einen 1080p Monitor und einen 4K TV, der aber seit nem Jahr im Keller steht, weil dafür seit meines Umzuges kein Platz mehr in der Hütte ist. :D Von daher kann ich nicht mal beurteilen, wie viel schlechter / besser 1080p / 4K auf einem 4K Gerät wirklich aussehen. Ich dachte halt einfach, dass 1080p heutzutage für mich nicht (mehr) in Frage kommt.

​@@mexmax1657 Okay, verstehe was du gemeint hast. Diese Probleme sind leider ebenfalls Teil meines Filmer-Alltags und ich denke bis Sony da eine Lösung bietet, müssen wir uns leider weiterhin damit rumkämpfen und ärgern. Wenn man die Info über HDMI an den externen Monitor liefert, dann ist die Anzeige zwar in 1080p und mit schwarzen Balken, aber die Aufnahmen sollten dennoch in 4k sein, nicht? Habe selbst noch nicht mit dieser Option gefilmt, aber ich denke nicht, dass dann die Aufnahmen intern auf 1080p beschränkt sind. In 1080p zu filmen ist für Produktionen heutzutage nicht mehr zu empfehlen, schon gar nicht mit der a7iii (diese hat ein extrem schlechtes 1080p mit nur 50mbit/s bei 60p oder 30p). Wenn in fullHD dann nur für schnelle unkomplizierte Workflows, Massencontent für Sozial Media oder wenn unbedingt Slow-Motion benötigt wird und es in 4k nur 30p gibt (wie ich es mache).

@@wallenboeckfilms Doch, leider werden die HDMI Infos nur ausgegeben, wenn man die Aufnahmequalität auf 1080p umstellt. Das ist das unfassbar dumme an der Sache. :D OK, dann bleibt wohl nichts anderes übrig, als entweder damit zu leben und zu lernen oder auf den externen Monitor verzichten oder (in sehr ferner Zukunft) eine a7sIII oder FX3 zu kaufen. Bei denen besteht das Problem wohl nicht mehr. Sehr schade. Ich dachte, es gibt vielleicht irgend einen Trick oder so.

@@mexmax1657 Oh Gott, ja das ist dann wirklich sehr dumm und eher unbrauchbar. Ja wird leider darauf hinauslaufen. Ich denke auch dass da für die a7iii nichts mehr kommen wird. Ich denke am einfachsten ist es, wenn man lernt damit umzugehen, auch wenn es etwas den Spaß und die Flexibilität beim Filmen nimmt. Ich kenne es nicht andern und sollte ich mal Kamera wechseln, dann wird es eine extreme Erleichterung sein.

Yes, it also comes with a lens hood!

Sir, I cannot do that but good effort trying.

@@wallenboeckfilms😂

Hi, thank you for asking. I am currently using the Tilta D-Tap to Sony NP-FZ100 dummy battery cable.

Freut mich, dass du mich unterstützen möchtest. Derzeit hab ich mich mit dem Thema zu Affiliate-Links auseinandergesetzt, aber ich denke in Zukunft wird es bestimmt welche geben. :)

Hallo, ich melde mich noch einmal zurück. Schaue doch gerne in die Beschreibung, es sind nun Links zu meinem Kamera Gear vorhanden. LG Mathias :)

Footage i shot with this camera is all over my youtube. You can watch my other videos and shorts to see.

Ty for your question first of all! I am shooting in Slog2 with S-Gammut3.cine because that works best for my workflow. In fact i am really struggeling myself to push colors on 8-bit footage and the reason those few vibrant shots look so clean and ‚far pushed‘ is because of color contrast. And what helped me with some of these shots to look so vibrant and clean like that is the ‚deep green‘ color grade. There is a tutorial on youtube you can look that up. With the glowing effect you can really push the look to feel more vibrant due to the high contrast. Other than that i just try my best to not tear apart the colors and try to be gentle when grading. I often do run into the limitations of 8bit. Another tip is to avoid using the color picker and use HSL curves instead. When you are using Davinci, also make sure to interpret the footage correctly when you import the files and make sure to transform the footage to rec.709 and that you grade before the transform node (if you are working in davinci) Hope that helps you out a bit, i myself struggled for 2 years before starting to get the workflow right to comfortably grade my 8bit footage. Greetings!

@@wallenboeckfilms thank you so much man, I'll try these out. thanks a lot 🙌

The base consists of the main part from NICEYRIG (with the 15mm rod holes) with the SMALLRIG quick release clamp mounted ontop of it where the camera cage with the arca swiss plate goes onto and another arca swiss plate mounted on the bottom of the NICEYRIG base plate so the whole rig can be mounted ontop of a tripod. Hope that helps. Appreciate your feedback 🙏

Thank you, appreciate your feedback!

🔥

If you want a Sony lens, i would still recommend the older 24-70, it‘s way cheaper now and still has outstanding quality. If you want it even cheaper there is the 28-75 from Tamron or what i would recommend is the 24-70 from Sigma.

@@wallenboeckfilmsHi, are you using it with an A7? Can you recommend settings for it? I got the A7 IV, and don’t really know what to change. Saw some yt videos.. but still have questions left

@paulheraucourt5132 Hi, im using it on my A7 iii. The A7 iv has some really good video capabilties compared to the 7iii. For filming i recommend shooting in slog3 to make full use of the 10-bit. If you arent familiar with filming in a flat picture profile you can easily learn it with some yt videos. Other than that u could just film in standard colors. Make sure to have your shutter speed double the number your frames are. So for example 1/120 when shooting in 60fps or 1/60 when shooting 30fps. That will keep the the motion blur at a natural looking level. Also keep your ISO as low as possible to avoid noise in the shadows but so that the image is still bright enough. Hope that helps! Greetings

@@wallenboeckfilms for me photos are more important.. Im pretty new, and currently trying out automatic mode only.. but I’m getting distortion in low light. I guess it’s because of the iso too. Cause tomorow I wanna do some car shootings in low light.. manual mode is too complicated. I just wanna set it up, that automatic works flawlessly.

​@@paulheraucourt5132 okay i see, unfortunately there is no fixed settings for that specific scenario i can give u since manual mode is to complex for just having fixed settings for every scenario. but there are some basic rules to follow when shotting for example in low light scenes. First open up your lenses f stop to its lowest stop to let in the most light (the 24-70 is really good for that with f2.8). Second lower your shutter speed to max 1/80 when IBIS is on or 1/100 if u have shaky hands, or use a tripod if u have one. with a tripod u can really get out a lot when sooting objeccts that arent moving like a car in the night, since u can really lower your shutter speed to do "long exposure" (u can look that up, it might help u out a lot) 3rd use the ISO last to brighten up the image until its bright enough, but dont overdue it, since the higher the ISO the more noice u will intruduce to the image and the worse the overall quality of the image. 4th RAW. BIG TIP. When u are shooting in RAW u really can push the image later in post. That means u dont really need to push the ISO to brighten up the image. u can keep it "underexposed" a bit and brighten it up in lightroom. Since its RAW u will retain most of the quality compared when shooting in higher ISO range (6400+) 5th Obviously u can add lights to your scene as an option to brighten up the scene. Hope that helps and good luck with your shoot tomorrow :)

It‘s $2,298.00 on B&H currently.

The lense is about 2.400€ new.

Thank you!

Danke!