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A shop out of Omaha, Nebraska built the exhaust system for me. Running 28+ year old Dynomax blackjack 351c 2V long tube headers, 2.5” system with X pipe and stainless mufflers similar to a magnaflo chambered muffler. Dumps out at the rear bumper with stainless Edelbrock oval tips. I love loud stuff but man…you run one 5400 mile trip on an 80’s F150 with duals and thrust glass packs dumping into 4” diameter 27” long resonator tips made me always want something less prone to making me and any riders deaf 😂😂😂

@@antonep4721 paint came from a company called Tamco out on the east coast. They do a lot of custom and regular automotive OEM colors. tamcopaint.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoqzC5Ddi9InC6DclzxUvkS4UOUGDxKL-BDptV8YRfPDOprNaziz I’ve sprayed their metallics, candy colors for vehicles and air brushing stuff. Stuff is pretty good and pricing is good as well

I drug this '72 GTS from an Iowa barn back in 2001, $600 for a 4 speed cobra jet Toploader car WITh all the drivetrain still in the car. Originally went after it so I could build a sleeper '76 Ford Elite with my first 351C and the Toploader. Wound up saving this GTS instead. Blame it on the sports roof! lol If you are not already on GranTorinoSport.org and the discussion forum, check it out.

Damn fix that headliner

Dealt with my share of stuff like that a few times, Karma is a beeeeyotch my friend lol

What's funny is I belong to a group for Ford Elites on Facebook and it surprises me how many are still out there. A lot of cars coming out of hiding due to owners passing away, estate sales and newer generations discovering these Fords. Fun part is, they can be easily converted to manual transmissions, or updated. I was going to do a sleeper with mine...but that '72 GTS body stole my heart man...and I went that route.

I spent 28+ years bangshifting that engine to its limits…it would lay over around 6400 rpm, too small a carb and stock valvetrain. But man it sounded so good. I have a lot of video running her over the years, will be putting more stuff on here 😉 As far as the Q code 4V…current combo hydraulic roller .540 lift. I have my rpm limiter set to 5900 rpm and it’s crazy how fast I can bounce her off it lol Problem is properly respecting the weapon I have now under the hood!

@@eliteman7685 I was 18 years old in 1988 and got asked by my engineering friend how to interpret the camshaft, carburettor and gearing needs of a 2V Cleveland 351 4bbl. I told him 4V heads don't show any power increase until over 350 HP, because that's what Boss 351 and GTHO Falcon Phase III 351 engines put out. Fact is, a 2V headed 351 with tiny Autolite 4300A, 600 CFM (1968-1974 ) Four Barrel was probably the nicest street engine around. We copied Melbourne Capri Cortina V8 parts build list from Bob Pinnell, and used a LB Performer, 4150 780 CFM Four Barrel Vac Sec and 296 at lash hydraulic CC268 cam with 232° 50 thou lift. Adjustable valve gear, forged pistons, everything except for a windage tray and some Tri Y headers, stock 2V 302 closed chamber heads with 63 cc instead of 57cc by softened chamber mods and stainless valves. Magic engine combination!

​@@eliteman7685I doubt I've ever wound my 2V 351C to 6,000RPM. i can still see the factory hone marks, as typical the lifters stopped oiling the rockers thus replaced them decades ago.

@@chuckwhitson654 I got myself into so much damn trouble with that 300-ish horses 🤣🤣🤣 I’d rather have mild manored HP than a fickle ill-tempered 1,000hp glass cannon But I won’t complain if a hellcat, last gen z28 Camaro ZL1 or a new Shelby Mustang showed up at my door 🤣 I wanted to run a Ford Raptor 6.2 blower engine with a T56 in one of these cars, always thought that would be fun!!

@@nowayjose596 tbh, it’s been 23-24 years and can’t recall, don’t have any closer pics that I can find. About the only thing I remember on that set was I got to know a guy who had a foxbody that was converted using Lincoln mark 7 parts, rear axle/front hubs and bought the set off him. Pretty sure I got rid of them as I hated the offset was way wrong and had to use wheel spacers which still left them tucked in too much.

They appear to be the Eagle Alloys 8834. It’s a saleen style wheel with higher offsets for fwd cars that is now discontinued but you can still find a used set pretty cheap when they do pop up for sale

@@bobbawon Thanks for letting me know, I really appreciate it 👍

@@glennfriedler2557 yeah…didn’t know it at that time, the alternator bracket was cracked after 50+ years of service on that 351c. Fought with it, and finally replaced the V belt setup with a serp belt setup from CVF Racing

@@boats2474 here was what the second shop indicated. I had the block machined for TMeyer oil system modifications on #1 main. I opted to skip the old school external -4 braided line off the oil galley near fuel pump to tee fitting at the oil pressure sending using. Went with TMeyer cam bearings to help regarding their instructions. What the second shop found was the bearing clearances were never checked properly. Likely the first builder threw in the main bearings after having my crank machined without double checking clearances. Other failure point was I found out they never line bored my block. So tolerance stack was bad, not enough clearances on the mains, as oil pressure was up there using a Milodon standard pressure 351C oil pump. Again, I’m not an engine expert, and at most I’m good at bolting on top end stuff, never assembled my own engines, so I trusted those in charge of the first build. Just really sucked!!

...And what about that fan belt chirp?

@@georgewilkinson1068 ... jus' pour water on it for a minute!!!

Run down...(this is what I posted up on GranTorinoSport.org on my build thread.) main bearing clearances were half of what was needed. All main bearings toast. My original crankshaft from my engine is damaged enough another crank was sourced. Bore job was 0.005" undersized (5 thousandths) My roller lifters were replaced. Full of metal glitter chunks and the manufacturer flat out states no rebuilds possible. We could have cleaned them out, but engine builder went new as a precaution. Harland Sharp said Roller Rockers are fully rebuildable for $130. Roller cam and Tmeyer cam bearings were the only thing not damaged. We decided to replace cam bearings in block, cam was re-used. Other things coming to light like the block wasn't decked, connecting rods were honed crooked. The top set of piston rings were upside down. Heads were pulled back apart again to recheck everything. Another valve job, replaced all the valve stem seals again due to improper install by first builder. Needless to say...considering what I deal with to get it originally rebuilt, I am not pleased. But moving forward because no choice. I refuse to let my car languish and not be driven.

That’s what I ended up doing. It was not cheap, but she’s fixed now. Behind on posting stuff, but more videos coming. The guys up in Detroit know how to build Cleveland’s…and she is alive and well. Sure as hell had me beat down for a few months though man. Hard pill to swallow when the builder and machine shop from the first build ended up acting like not their fault. Machine work and engine assembly was bad in multiple areas.

I replied on the other video. Solution: go to a guy that actually knows how to build a proper 351 Cleveland and not small block Chevy stuff. This was…spendy…to fix.

Thanks. I ended up very happy with the rebuild by my friend up near Detroit. His shop knows how to build them proper. Videos coming on the second rebuild. She rips down the highway!!

I wish man! I have not sprayed anything since 2020. I'll get back into it, been wanting to spray skateboards and have some fun with stuff, but not able to right now. HOA KAREN stuff

Thank you. Unfortunately I'm not sure which handle I'm using since when I click the Control Panel it says "Only members with sufficient permission can access this page." I think my username is BAMAJiPS I tried creating two different accounts with the same results bamajips and nolongerjips both gmail addresses since itll shadowban if I put actual email in comment. Also when I try to click "Resend activation email" the error code says "Server Error Message:- Persits.MailSender.4 Transport Layer Security Error #30 (SMTP): 552 Message size exceeds maximum mailbox size of torino_forum Closing transmission channel." Sorry to inundate you with info but even got error response trying to mail the administrator Thanks for trying to look into it.

No worries man. I’ll check it out after work, see what I can find. Be 4-6 hours

@@BAMAJiPS I found it. Went in and reset. Set you an email from what was on the forum.

This is a MAJOR frustration I have right now. I have emailed CVF back and forth a few times. My system was one of the first prototype systems for the Cleveland that I got from them. I tried using a Lokar 351C dipstick, but no space. I wound up bending a factory dipstick. Headache I had, I wound up snapping my original oil dipstick tube, I had to grab another one and bent a Scott Drake reproduction dipstick tube to clear. CVF wasn't aware of any issues last I messaged, saying that had revised things on the Rev B for the Raptor. I honestly don't know the differences but I had that kit boxed for a while before I got around to things. I have a group of videos from the last year of my 351C Cobrajet rebuild and the headaches I had, showing how I had to bend it to clear. The dipstick is NOT easy to pull out of the Scott Drake dipstick due to how much I had to tweak it. The Lokar dipstick would have worked, except the lower piece on the tube wouldn't make the radius I had to flex the Lokar to to clear the AC Compressor. I wanted to try spacing the plate/compressor out but it would mean adjusting a lot of other stuff that becomes a real headache. Thanks for asking this, as it's still an issue folks should know about.

I am just winding up installing my system on the 351c in this video as I finally had it rebuilt to full roller specs. My issues I ran into more than anything was the remote reservoir setup. Wound up fabricating a bracket to go off my driver side head and used a #10AN 90 degree fitting. I spent more time dealing with that and being irritated over the fact I couldn’t get even a stock dipstick to clear the AC compressor. In my case, the Wraptor system is one of their very early systems (Rev A) and I had some teething issues to deal with. Have you run yours yet? Just curious what kind of Rpm’s you have spun with your system. My beast system would take 5500-6400 bangshifts so I’m looking forward to the same fun. Oh! That darn alternator pulley is a real PIA I almost could not get my belt on the system and had to back off the upper and lower alternator bolts.

Hey, just a heads up, I was having a hell of a time with the belt that came with the system. I am going to do an update to this, but I found out by using the next size length belt from Gates, I am able to get the belt on and off the system without the headache of removal of the alternator pulley. Gates belt # K080765. 75.87" vs 76.48" or 1943 MM vs 1927MM length difference. One of those small things, not sure why CVF didn't update info to this longer belt but going to send feedback to them.

That's exactly what I thought when I saw this video

it's a nice color that Tamco mixed up. Only issue I ran into spraying was I laid it on too heavy and had some of the flake pool a bit. Once it flashed off, next day it came out really nice.

Thanks! I love the CVF stuff…and how it just works well.

Thanks! I'll be honest, there has to be at least 150? or so long roofs in this place. Some decent, some past their prime, but able to still offer up good sheetmetal.

I have not, but I have seen some of his stuff on his Facebook site. What worries me is I think Louis is retiring, some of the Wymore stock has been feeding into John's place but he's not keeping stuff around like Louis did.

Rick, I agree it’s a heck of a lot easier out of the car. With that said, for my car, fitment in the 1972-1979 Ford era cars is not terrible based off my Experience with CVF’s Beast system. My only issue I fought with was the fact I’m not some professional RUclipsr, just a regular wrench who likes to show the basics using his IPhone to make basic videos. I’d love to have stuff on the level of Deboss or Vice Grip Garage but this is just me having some fun…and trying to not get irritated and throw wrenches from time to time 🤣 I wish I had a couple go pros and better lighting but hey! I use what I have at the moment.

Hey, checking back. How has your system been so far? Any issues? All good and lots of trouble free miles?

To be honest, my 351c in my car currently is a basically a mystery $125 engine I bought from an old coworker when I worked at a Buick dealer bodyshop in the late 90’s. I’ve spun the hell out of it for around 24 years 😁 The key thing in building a solid 351c is doing the basics right the first time and using good parts. These days I’d strongly suggest going to a good quality roller lifter setup. Have all the lifter bores machined and bushed (install bronze liners) and be exceptionally mindful of the cam and lifters. Lifters for the older engines have become problematic to say the least. If you are Facebook there is an amazing group called “Clevelands Forever - 351c.net” that I highly suggest joining. My engine was a standard 0.30” over rebuild. I added an aux oil line using a an-3 steel Teflon lined braided hose as a precaution to add oil to the rear mains because I don’t know the specifics on my rebuild, aside from the head work I had done for unleaded fuel. But it’s taken years of hard fun driving and spinning to 6400 on the street, so she was built well enough for my needs. I also will say that after nearly a decade of using my CVF Beast system, aside from minor things I had to adjust to work for my car, like lowering the AC compressor bracket one hole, adding a new hole to the bracket for the AC compressor and then a shorter belt, and shorter tensioner, this setup has treated me well and never tossed a belt. Oh and as far as setup it’s honestly basic for the combo. Mild cam unknown specs, long tube headers, Edlebrock performer intake, Edlebrock 1406 600cfm carb (honestly undersized but my car has been running 2.75 gears for years with my toploader and tremec 5 speed, going to finally up the carb size, built as a cruiser for street fun), originally a toploader 4 speed swapped to tremec 5 speed. Ignition is just duraspark ford Torino stuff, as they are good to around 600hp. Distributor was a parts store remain for a 1977 ford tbird with a 400, ignition wiring for the duraspark is off one of my old 1976 ford Elite’s. Tend to run Autolite plugs, basic standard old school 25’s I think (been a few years since I’ve done plugs) and timing is set around 36 degrees all in. This combo has withstood so many late night shenanigans and long road trips, it’s been good to me.

@@eliteman7685 thanks for the feedback. Great info. I do follow that group. I think i found a reputable company to build a cleveland for me, just finishing up someother things on the car first. Im always looking for the best info on how i should build a cleveland. My plan is to have it use the 351c trickflow sefi intake and have it ran thru holley. Some ppl have said to just chip the a9l and tune it that way.

@@Kk_1100 my personal thoughts are the trickflo is a great setup. I can’t say one way or another on the factory computer, granted I have a 92 foxbody I am going to build but it will be a factory style basic restomod, but I’m tempted to replace the factory EFI for a Holley terminator or similar efi system as let’s face it the factory FoMoCo tech is simple but doesn’t have the adjustability of modern efi. I may go sniper efi on my build of my original Cobrajet 4 barrel cleveland from my car for hood clearance and simplicity. I’m still a holdout of the simplicity of my carbs.

@@eliteman7685 thats my only concern with the trickflow set up. Wondering about hood clearance in my fox. Plan on using mm kmember. Whenever you do get your engine and fox built be sure to post, im sure theres a whole bunch of people interested in foxes with 351c

You can raise and lower it using the hydraulics, same controls as Benny’s lowriders. The issue is it doesn’t lock a car in place. I’ve loaded the post ops boxville on the back as well and moved it around however due to size and the game engine it gets interesting at times. Biggest issue is basically having to drive in reverse to keep a car on it long distances.

Nope no admission or anything. I’ve generally just walked up and check with the building by the front office. The guys there might ask what you’re after but I’ve gone there over the years and just walked around.

@@eliteman7685 good I spotted a couple 67 impalas hope I can grab some decent body panels from

@@hurleyintl84 there’s a ton of good sheetmetal there. A lot of the cars have come up from rural Kansas and not overly exposed to salt. He deals cash only for the most part from memory. M-F typical hours. Saturdays are 8-12, sometimes 1pm but call ahead of time. My advice: spend a day out there. You won’t regret it!

Thanks. I just wanted to share this yard. Also…noticed you had a flathead video. There are still a few flaties in cars out there in the yard!

The old house, before the move. Did these videos a ways back but never got posted up.

My advice is pretty basic, I have a couple videos I need to post up about the install. In my case my engine was out for the video. Without knowing your car/truck, my basics are: Have the area clean and organized. Lay out your parts and it all starts with the spacers and main plate that bolts off the front. The instructions are straight forward but it helps having a basic measuring tool like Item# 44051 northern tool 6” caliper or similar, such as Harbor Freight, to check lengths of the spacers. Other things like a thread chaser tap to just clean out the threads on the bolt holes come to mind. During the install, you loosely mount up the system, and once everything is installed, then you can torque the bolts into place. The instructions should detail that info but if nothing else, follow factor specs. Concerning the water pump, no issues as I’ve referenced off an original Ford casting, a GHB aftermarket pump (boxed as a miledon heavy duty waterpump) and the pump included with the CVF kit. All bosses and mounting surface dims I measured mic out the same, so if your pump is new/good, no need to swap. There are other factors like the alternator will need all new wiring but depending upon vehicle, you’ll want to make sure the cabling is good quality copper and appropriate master fusing in installed. Painless and other automotive wiring companies like Ron Francis can help out there. My biggest deal I personally had was getting the belt on after assembly. I had to leave the alternator pulley loose, slip the belt on while also having a breaker bar releasing the belt tension to slide the alt pulley on and then tighten the bolt for the alt pulley. I’ll try to post up my videos to help give some info. Lastly…if you get stuck, remember to take a break, walk away for a few and grab a beverage, and come back relaxed. I love my car but she’s called the Iron Maiden for a reason at times 😂

Just a heads up, I did get my install video of me assembling the system uploaded. Check it out, and hopefully it helps.

Hi Wayne, I am planning on listing the parts on Ebay. I need to get the weights and packaging figured out first before I do that. Due to the fragile nature of the '72 Gran Torino surround and grill parts, I need to find a way to insure they are safely packaged.

The frame on this one was smoothed out but I did have to do some light metal finishing on it.

Great results!!! Was this color hard to spray?