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Am thrilled with the progress. The reliability is what I like, these things just work together every time 😀

It's really cool seeing how manipulating that magnetic field changes with the different coil sizes. Thank you for the wonderful review and honestly much of this work wouldn't be possible had it not been for your help. The next step would be to see if you can get even more initial range by adding a 9v instead of the 3v button cell. I hope to have the redesigned generator shortly and in your hands.

Great news about the redesigned generator! It'll be good to show the final version 👍 There's peace of mind knowing that every component is exactly the same and has been made exactly the same as another. Bravo on developing such a system! Upping the voltage is certainly a route and should be fun to try.

Many thanks, Sir! It was a bit of a step up for production in some ways, something am actively trying to do.

A regular 5 pin MIDI cable 😀 A standard MIDI plug is wired to the Raspberry Pico and the cable plugs in. Other end can plug into any MIDI keyboard.

Many thanks Alex 😀

Thank You, your comment is appreciated Johan 😀

It would be and will be. At the moment, I use a 1 ohm resistor to measure, because every multi-meter has destroyed it's current measuring (or I have lol). Good point though, all I know up to now is that 10 circuits made it brighter than 5, haven't had chance yet to do full assessments.

@@Slider2732_ playing around with these circuits for some days now i seem to have stumbled over the possibility to run at least one of them without the blocking components (cap and resistor) in parallel connected to the base. only the cap accross positiv and negative is left. and it is pulsing nicely at about heart rate. knowing some of your videos i was thinking you might like that 🙂 i just posted a little demo video.

@@MilkywayOutcast Will definitely take a look! Thanks for furthering the experiments, it's appreciated and how we all benefit 😀

Cheers 😀 If the 100 oscillator board performs well then manufacturing would be a logical next step. The AI is hilarious, but also a lot of fun. The speed at which it does the imagining is remarkable.. I used to use Bryce 5, a software image design/renderer and each scene could take 20 minutes to finish!

I really like the biodegradable aspect of your design. The device reaches end of life, put it in the compost... that's an excellent approach! Makes a lot of sense too about recoating every 5 years, for keeping something going that has had very few issues over its lifetime. I actually wonder if your milk based plastic could be made into filament for a 3D printer? If so, even that side of a business would be very appealing. A winning formula is to show a cellphone actually charging with anything new, so 0.5A output, any lower and most phones drain even though showing a charging indicator. Wind here has always been an issue and why I've tended to focus on solar... if it's not perfectly calm, then the weather is trying to obliterate everything! Good luck! 👍

@@Slider2732_ I wonder if you know what form is the output when all 10 work together ? And especially what frequency ?

@@Caesarus2011 It'll be a messy version of a squarewave before the summing section. But yes, I don't know about the frequency beyond being low, considering LED''s on the outputs of each circuit flash at 2 Hertz. The summing and caps smoothing out to DC. When the larger, next version is built is when a lot more measuring will be done. Have to know for load purposes too and system viability.

@@Slider2732_ Many thanks for reply, really appreciated. I guess that 100 uF cap plays its role for this low frequency along with voltage drop on diodes.

Thanks Caesarus 😀 I knew I'd forgotten something... the transistor is a 2N2222A. Other NPN's can work well, C1815, 2N3904, but the A version of the 2N2222 works the best so far. The base oscillator is just like others over the years and intentionally for easy parts purchase. It's a version of the one made popular by Lidmotor with his superb 'Penny' and likely will be tuned up (0.01uF and 680K resistor in the tank, changes like that). But this way works and is the start point. Good luck with your projects!

@@Slider2732_ many thanks, really appreciate ! And good luck with your amazing projects ✨👏🏻

Haha, yes, I can see that! Thing was, I was made aware of all this from an American guy. This one has sat in the car since and has been useful, for aspirins, $20 note and more. I suppose a couple of bullets in there would be a good idea too 😀

Am happy about it, considering the number of weird display issues recently on things. This has worked out well 😀

Thanks, the 2 same coils like this are bifilar. In fact they are co-ax, with the outer braiding connecting to the middle copper at the mid length join. They work surprisingly well and were built about 10 years ago.

@@Slider2732_ Thanks! That’s a new twist (pun intended) on the bifilar coil design. So if you are connecting the end of the outer braiding to the middle copper at the midpoint join its operating in longitudinal mode, yes? Also are you getting any cold electricity effects?

@@Slider2732_ It would be great if you could do a build video showing how you made your coils with coax cable, because as far as I know you are the first to try that, and it seems to be getting you good results. Cheers!

Energy solutions do need to ramp up, I agree completely. If only tiny like this, someone with thousands of feet of wire from an old job or something could make a hundred strings of the same thing and increase that output to be useful.

Thanks for your great comment 😀 Heavy water would indeed be completely fascinating to explore. The circuits run at different frequencies due to mis-matched components. Mainly, what I had available and why they don't look 100% the same to the eye. All use 1000uH inductors mind you. I can see what you mean with something like mains frequency, It might allow for a simpler conversion if the system was expanded enough to produce mains voltages.

@@Slider2732_ there would be direct conversion at desired frequency, square wave is as good as sine wave and if you have 100+150+200+250+… resultant frequency will be 50 even if you don’t use it direct, veritasium channel have a recent video about this effect. But this would be out of reach for average joe in diy manner, while your idea is absolute brilliant ! I really wonder if you think it might be possible to play with zener diodes and caps instead of blocking oscillators to obtain desired frequency as we can reach any potential we need pretty easy in your way or my way. By the way, why you say Mg wouldn’t last long enough ? Using tap water with chlorine in it ?

"electric curent can be obtained without 'chemical reaction'" Why do you think so? If that were true, why doesn't every do it? The reactions between various metals is very well understood. Voltage produced by two different metals can be accurately predicted using the electronegativity of the element. The electrons in the current originate in one metal and end up in the other metal when current flows. At least one of the elements has to corrode in order for this reaction to occur. If water could produce work because of its bipolarity, then why isn't anyone using this? Where is the energy coming from?

@@ddegnit seems pretty hard to believe but this is the pure truth. Watch my 3 videos o my channel to see same effect @slider2732_ have shown here. My setup is different and use classic 2 electrodes per cell, if I add potable water voltage/current is much lower than using deionised water and I have run continuous my setup for more than 1 year without any noticeable reduction in size of electrodes. Why anyone else do not use it ? I don’t know … maybe people trust more whatever mainstream science say publicly as the scientists are well aware of this effect. There is a lot of paper work and plenty studies. Let’s hope more people wake up and start to use it. I already mentioned few times is based on “work function of elements” method contact points and not photoelectric. “Electronegativity” of elements is outdated and inaccurate description of phenomena and you can ignore this section if you seek the truth. All we know from textbooks about dielectric is just what mainstream science are allowed to make public. Any dielectric can conduct electricity at right frequency, we can even use nylon fishing lines for electric power transmission or just a simple thin polyethylene foil if we wish. But a very simple example is water and air, both of them dielectric and both them conductive. Electric charge or “the energy” is non polarised and what we call “negative” or “positive” relate to elements according to their atomic/molecular structure. In a dipole it manifest and flow in opposite way from “negative” to positive and any circuit connected to a dipole will flow from “positive” to “negative”. But to understand this one needs to understand that “the energy” is always present in any matter anywhere in the universe.

@@Slider2732_ I am just a dumb as box of rocks person my name is Ben this is wifs youtube I think inductance needs to be as low as possible until the point of use You can use a short circuit to raise the amperage by placing a capacitor in series on each leg of the short Then what ever your powering hooks to each leg of cap on shorted side We think path of least resistance so the short will not allow the voltage to rise enough to run anything Well this is not the case if discharging cap on none shorted side of the two caps So one ac power source each leg going into a leg of a cap Each other leg of cap shorted also what ever your powering on each of theses shorted caps Then fast discharging between each leg of caps none shorted side I know it sounds silly but if done right the short is your inductor The voltage cant rise when feeding the other two legs of cap with ac source of a normal freq The higher the voltage the better but normal freq If you voltage is high enough it will spark discharge its self if you put a small gap on none shorted side of caps This will make a tank circuit with the shorted side of caps being said inductor Subject change but some thing else good to know about inductance In a reg mains transformer the more turns of wire TO A POINT the more eff it will be Also ZERO mains hum even with your ear on the transformer When winding your own core and input/output coils you want to wind it with as low as possible capacidents If it be possible ZERO capasidents all induction To find the perfect turn ratio calculation will work It will get you in pallbark only If you want as close to zero losses as possible so close you cant find any you must test as you add turns So if winding a mains step down tranny start with the mains side Wind the ballpark calculation then plug it into the mains and note the loses Unplug it from the mains add few more turns plug it in again Repeat noting the loses At some point the added turn will have less effects of the losses This along with winding for low capasident is how you make a mains transformer have zero hum and incredibly low loses Maybe so low you cant find any in the final completed transformer Might have to buy better equipment even if you have very good equitment to find them losses They WILL be there unless it is getting some power from another source as we all should know by now Heat pump cycle is free energy to the way most think of free energy I think diff meaning from same word makes peoples true heart show I am shore I have not wote any thing new but I have ran into tons of people that had no clue of the things I wrote By the way you can stick your toung to the shorted side of the circit I first described Its power output has lots of strange things about it ALL super fast discharges at diff than most think God bless hope this helps some one

Would you be able to explain “work function of elements” for me please, it seems you are very well informed and I am always keen to learn something, as my setup using deionised water or even pharmaceutical grade pure water and after a year of continuous running there is no corrosion of electrodes, nor size reduction and light is on all time without any electronics, just bare copper wire+bare aluminium wire+water … and no measurable curent (i can only read above 0.01amp with my instruments). Voltage measured at LED is 2.5 volts and at output of “battery” is 6-7 volts. So, please enlighten me which law pf physics am I breaking or obey ?

Many thanks, Wilson 👍

But, with only 1 positive electrode to power many oscillators, all summed. Any multi-cell power system can't be anything but a battery... I do agree and is the whole point 😀

@@Slider2732_ Sorry, if I sounded condescending. I have little doubt that you didn't know that.

@@mikethespike7579 That's fine, I appreciate you commenting in the first case 😀

@@Slider2732_no. It’s just an electrochemical battery. And not a very good one. No amount of technobabble will change that.

Yep, from the same electrolyte and same single positive electrode 😀

@@Slider2732_ So what's so amazing about this then? I made chemical batteries when I was 10 out of lemons. Yours just has a common + rail. Maybe I missed the point but I don't see anything remarkable here.

@@peterjansen5498 Mainly in the summing, Peter. While it's very easy to make a lemon type cell, it's not easy to sum from the same electrolyte, at least in my experience. Multiple cells within the same lemon is certainly not a regular school type experiment. Every common demonstration shows 1 positive electrode and 1 negative electrode in an electrolyte... not multiples, summed. Do bear in mind there is no claim as such here for clicks and cash, only a success that the summing has worked. This is a non monetized channel, run by an average middle aged hobbyist. The future aim of the 'Power Chip' is what is being explored and shared as I go.

@@Slider2732_ I still don't see whats special here. There are multiple cells, each has a Pos and neg but you have all the pos common. each cell appears to drive a multivibrator with the output rectified and charging caps. Without a schematic I can't see what you are trying to achieve. Sorry if I sound underwhelmed but I just dont get it. Can you show a schematic so some of can understand what you are demonstrating. :)

@@Slider2732_ WELL SAID PEOPLE UPSET FROM OTHERS VIDEOS I LIKE THAT YOU PESIFY THEM INSTEAD OF BUNCH OF DRAMA Seems the world has enough drama nonsense to me AGAIN WELL DONE BE A LIGHT

An understandable opinion. It looks mediocre, but, to sum circuits like this from 1 positive electrode and same electrolyte is something I'd like to have seen before. Do you have a link to the same thing? It would be genuinely of intrigue 😀 Also, no need for any hostility, this is a little non monetized channel and I'm only posting research and findings.

​@@Slider2732_ Indeed, the choice of words. We would like to see a better version from the commenter who is implying what you are doing is battery 101.

Can you do better? Please share a version that, to you, is a better implementation. Otherwise, it is armchair commentary with no suggestion on what implementation would improve what he discovered.

@@shareyourchristmas nothing was discovered here. This is just a weak battery and some simple RCI oscillators to make it look complicated, and to pulse the lights (I suspect the pulsing is also necessary to make them bright enough to see on camera). You can look this stuff up in a basic electronics textbook. It would be an impressive discovery 400 years ago.

@@bridgetshepherd5202 It is all about learning and doing things that make you want to continue. I am grateful he is sharing. We are all at different stages, in the journey. Perhaps you have done more and you see this as very basic. It may well be. The most complex system is always made of simple components, with simple properties. Personally I see a LED array, that can be arranged into a panel, that can be used to make something like a mendoncino motor. All starting with basic set up that provides a low voltage input. Just experiments, there are different ways of making DIY batteries. Having said that, for example, I am yet to come across someone who has successfully replicated the oxford electric bell, claredon dry pile, that can operate like the original one. :)

In a way yes, exactly, only functioning differently. It's intended to be a battery, after all and many people in the comments seem confused about it. Thing is, a lemon battery could be say 10 lemons in a line... each will connect a positive to a negative in a chain. In this case, there is only 1 positive electrode. Also, each lemon has its own self contained electrolyte, this has just 1 electrolyte for all. The power harvesting is certainly of interest, I'd like to harvest EMF from this PC here to reduce exposure, for example. Oh I'm with you on the age thing, we never had cellphones in the 70's when I was a kid, or computers lol. Have still got a couple of Nokia 3310's in a drawer. Thanks for your comment 😀

@Slider2732_ good luck, I'm looking forward to watching the progress. This one video hooked me in

I agree and best of luck with those experiments. Great results!

exactly.. hate youtubers nowadays, they are so lowly educated.

It's exactly that, in a broad sense! But the individual cells don't need separated electrolyte (flooded lead acid), separate containers (conventional cells) or separate positive electrodes to be summed. And, that's the point, to be able to be put in the ground or water and generate AS a battery. There are also significant metals savings by using only 1 piece of copper for the whole lot 😀

What he means is the battery that you usually spend your hard hand money to buy😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉

@@Slider2732_ if you package the components of a battery in a durable container with low manufacturing cost you get prismatic or cylindrical cells. Why is your design better than consumer grade products available everywhere?

@@drdrowlandyou have made a very good point ! He made an excellent “battery” (in fact is a generator) which will outlast any modern battery by 100.000 times more and the real beauty is, it can be done in a very small size … probably a size of a car battery for such generator system would be enough to power any vehicle or few houses constant for many years without any maintenance.

what you're describing is just a form of battery called a voltaic pile. It's basically the root of why the schematic symbol for a battery looks the way it does. (what's presented here in the video is also just a battery)

Yes, individual circuits like a Joule Thief are the basis, but the difference is to combine many circuits in the same electrolyte and only a single positive electrode, then sum them 😀

You're very welcome and, I know for a fact you are the type of fella to further this sort of thing. If you do, good luck! 👍

@@Slider2732_ 🙂 not sure i will further anything, but i can try to catch up. got the oscillater running today! i love the discovery of the little inductors too. dont have them yet but they seem to make things more tidy.:-)

@@Slider2732_ thanks. not sure i will further things. but maybe i could catch up with you guys :-) got 2 of the oscillaters running now together. love the idea of the little inductors too. making things a bit less chaotic on the table.

@@MilkywayOutcast Keep the chaotic, those events make the videos lol. In fact, I just tidied my work area and lost an odd effect, where an AV plug LED lit by touching the wooden table. Got no idea now what caused it.

@@Slider2732_ yes i have experienced the value of chaos 🙂. wood and cardboard again and again seem to act strange! my work table is improvised in card board. if it was not so funky i would have never known that.

i get the sense that was exactly what the channel was hoping would happen. free energy devices don't work.

Haha, many thanks. I'll put a schematic with a future update 👍

@@drdrowland There's no free energy claim, within words spoken, title, thumbnail, or anything in the description or tags! The very fact of using 2 dissimilar metals and an electrolyte surely demonstrates that? Not that I mind negative viewpoints about free energy devices, considering none of them work 😀

@@Slider2732_ you seem pretty well practiced in this response

note I had AI try to organize my brain thoughts, this is the most coherency you're getting tonight

Totally agree Jack, about the layouts and differences. Thing is, it's also intended to be metals efficient and durable, with copper being especially expensive and magnesium being short lasting. Hence Cu Zn, with 1x Cu piece 😀 I do appreciate those diagrams! In the final chip size, everything would be far tighter packed and may well produce results as you describe. Thanks for commenting.

@@JackBright4908 LMAO, I see 😄👍

If the project goes ahead as planned then certainly a schematic will be shown too in a following video 😀 As a prototype, a schematic would only be for wherever it would be up to and likely to heavily change. If you look up a low voltage blocking oscillator circuit (0.5V type) then that's the basis. All oscillators then connect to the single piece of copper and individual zinc pieces. Once you have LED's flashing,, then the circuit is up to where this vid started. Thanks for your comment Jason 👍

Many thanks. Yes, enjoyable stuff, especially when that LED came on 😀

Thanks and yes, I agree. The zinc screws have been ideal for testing in those ways. The full vision being the computer processor design, which would need to have tiny electrodes. Thanks for your comments, they're appreciated 😀

@@Slider2732_ if you think you can get a continuous layer of cerium oxide on copper that would be best “negative” electrode which will not react with water and for “positive” CuO layer on copper … it should give 2.2-3.2 v per cell with everything preserved for few tens of years or more, provided you ca seal the cell and is full with water. It can be done cheap diy manner with the right skills. In meantime, the world is still looking for miracle battery to store billions of MWH wasted or trying to invent unobtainable tech.

Cerium oxide (used to polish glass, stones etc) is best element for “negative” electrode if you can obtain a continuous layer on copper wire. For “positive” electrode CuO layer on copper wire is perfect (the black thing) … you can expect 2.2-3.2 v per cell with this combination. If you could obtain such layers direct on capacitor leads would be perfect … you know what to do for the rest of setup 😉 Tesla work is based on voltage, in opposition with modern usage based on curent … and voltage is almost everywhere for anything you want.

@@Caesarus2011 Will definitely have a look at cerium oxide, many thanks for that. Was looking at the copper and remembering how John Bedini used to heat pieces on a stove top. Own experiments back then did prove out the superior results. The copper had to be pink, like salmon 😀

A hybrid battery-capacitor would be great! I've no zeners here, but had wished to remove the LED's, except for 1 to show power throughput. Fortunately, this works with very simple components and charging is certainly on the cards when a build is made of far more oscillators 😀

@@Slider2732_not sure if you really need an oscillator for each cell. Look up for “eco invent stud srl” and see yourself. But I think a capacitor across each cell might do some wonders … Arie Melis deGeus said in one of his patents that a resonance similar to an LC may take place if a variable cap is used for each cell and tuned … but this is far beyond little experiments diy … or not ? Also, because you are using solar systems, you may want to test some BYV 27 diodes any voltage in series (20-40) than parallel series on a wooden/plastic frame and just let them catch few rays of sun, although they work in little shadow as well as long as there is daylight. I have used 40 in series and just twist them like a string … 12-28v with little curent per string. Test them and make a little calculus for a budget and tell me if you still want to buy solar panels or make your own 🤭 … hook up a cap to check what you get instantly. Bear in mind the more “advanced” solar panels (+£300/panel) use caps as well and some natural ventilation which you can obtain by making strings in open air … based on same “work function” but depend on day/night … where the “battery” works 24/7/365 and no need for huge storage banks, just few gallons of deionised/pure water, or even rain water filtered.

Hope so, one day! It wouldn't do much for city apartments. but if all that's needed is a few feet of grass or a backyard pool then maybe 😀

LMAO, cheers 🤣 New video has just been uploaded.. with summed oscillators working, so you might well be right!

Thank you, Sir Dexter 😀

Wonderful comment, it's appreciated thank you 😀 Yes, great point about the AC, similar to the cheaper inverters used with solar projects. While copper is mostly inert except for needing a quick polish with sandpaper, that electrode should be easy to keep clean and useful for years. Stainless steel or other cheap but effective negative electrodes are envisaged. An output LCD seems best for display, running down to 1.2V and 1mA... well, lots of ideas, but no cash lol. That's why I hope others of better means can run with the concept and further it.

@@Slider2732_ I am trying to develop my own “battery” where I am using for tests 3parallel x 10 cells in series for the moment without any electronic circuit, just capacitor across the output and using deionised water to prevent destruction of electrodes but pure water pharmaceutical grade eventually type 1 in sealed cell would be best … tens of years of continuous usage. All you need is to decide the voltage output, than just add parallel until you reach desired output. Using smallest possible electrodes will give you a great power pack/volume. With semiconductor tech and electronics attached I can see 100 cubic mm pack able to power a house for many years … but, I really doubt anyone dare to make them available in mass production … they all hunting unobtanium batteries spending billions for entertainment. We need a solution feasible for diy. I have to try your method with 1 copper and many magnesium … it may be easier to fabricate then my design with 2 electrodes per cell and may eliminate the problem with leakage of 3d printed carcass in PLA. And by the way, I have given up measuring current in amperes … as long as I can charge a capacitor all is fine … after all there is a charge generation not induction if you know what I mean. Using this method instead of measuring current opens a new perspective.

"the metal do not react with water" If the metal doesn't react with the water it won't produce any electricity. The electricity is produced as the metal corrodes. This is like the many lemon batteries you see on RUclips and elsewhere.

@@ddegn certainly you have absolute no idea what are you talking about. You are just one example of how blind a human can be made by “mainstream science”. I really feel sorry for you, try to open your eyes and learn yourself without taking things ready judged by others. I have my running cells for more than a year without any chemical reaction and they still work as long as there is just a molecule of water touching both electrodes. No membrane or anything like, just bare copper wire, bare aluminium wire and deionised water gives up electric flow in unlimited quantity for indefinite time.

Yep, (for those reading who might not know) blocking oscillator is a term for when the Base current to a transistor is blocked from being directly wired. Normally, that may be a 1 megohm resistor, with a 0.1uF capacitor in parallel with the resistor. It enables flashing of the LED where there wouldn't be enough power to light it up. The water is the electrolyte, with the copper piece connected to all 10 circuits, individual pieces of magnesium connect to the negatives of each circuit. Indeed, just scaling up will be down the road, if indeed I can get some more 1000uH inductors to make more circuits 😀

The LEDs are powered by the metal corroding.

@@ddegn I'd say there's some merit to the thought, due to the galvanic reaction. But the oscillators are similar to Joule Thief's 😀

While you do, please consider that he Blu-Tak seen on the bottom of the water container was chosen on purpose. Was used to plug the hole hoping you may notice it lol 😁

Thanks, yes I like the way that all aren't pulled together to flash at the same time, from the fields interacting 😀

It could go in that direction, yep 😀 A thought is to get them all wired up, however many could be designed into a small footprint and change the output voltage using switches on the final unit. A DC-DC converter could have resistances to be switched, instead of the common multi-turn pot found on many (cheap) commercial ones. In such a way, the most current would be available at the smallest voltage, say 1.5V and the least at the top, say 12V.

Yep, thinking so. Someone did think it could be something with the microcontroller, but am thinking up to now that the LED's were driven too hard and simply blew.

Thanks Tim, very useful info! I've never returned a thing in my life, except when obviously previously opened and parts missing. I doubt this would be returned, if only to be fair to the manufacturer, but, do agree that building down to a price point should be addressed when it goes too far. Each LED leg was tested later, producing some interesting multiplexing, some were seemingly direct, some depended on another line being powered (am used to 1 leg, usually an end leg, being + or - and the rest following). At no time did the 3 missing segments light. To answer your question, 3 segments went in rapid succession of weekly intervals after 2 years ownership. None at the same time though. You did make me think when I read that point. It's only other issue is a small amount of rust at the very front where the door closes, from moisture during use. We wipe the area with kitchen roll and leave the door open for an hour. It also got treated with CorrosionX! Again, thank you for your advice 😀

Haha, I know what you mean... throw the food in, hit the number of minutes and wait. But, it does serve as a decent enough kitchen clock and wife uses the countdown feature 😄

Thanks John, the advice is appreciated. I used to have 3x 50gallon bins of parts at the old house and no doubt had another in those. Was thinking it might be fun to replace the segments with 5mm LED's, but only if I lived alone or had the desire to begin living on my own lol!

@@Slider2732_ haha, this sounds very familiar. 👍

Am thinking they must have just burnt out, as you say. It's rare for such a thing to happen, especially 1 extra segment roughly every week. But I'd prefer that over cockroaches!

LOL yeah, similar to the way some people 'fix' their car warning lights 😁 I didn't test the pins, am not sure of the voltage, but mainly because I didn't think of it!

@Slider2732_ hope you manage to get it sorted. 👍

@@johnwynne-qx6br Cheers 😀

@@Slider2732_ The display is most likely multiplexed, meaning the diodes share pins. The voltage LEDs lights up is about 1,5-3V. Multimeter set on diode mode check could give just enough voltage to light on LED.

Depending if the multiplexing chip is inside the display module or outside the module, you possibly don't have direct access to LEDs though.

Haha 😂 Yes, I imagine this one might get worked on again in a similar way!