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Keep up the good work !!

Thanks

Great explanation and showing to add VLR to the back of the design and then using plastic razer blades to remove design.

Good to know, thanks

Good video thanks

Where do you get your blanks?

Idk if you are able to help but I am doing this step for step and my project is printing really indented into the hat & it feels very tough. it also indented the hat alot and moved the lines of the beanie to the side or bunched a little.. i had my design digitized by someone professional.. but i cant find any help with antifeed or speed on my machine - what anti feed and speed do you use to do this? TIA!!! :)

Quick question bought a tc 1501 from a friend that had the machine sitting there for like a 6montha he ran probably Ike 100 hats I brought it to much shop and every time I try to run a hat needle breaks or thread every run what should I do ??

Thanks for the great tip! You really do awesome work

Great stitch out

Great tip! Gotta save on supply cost

Thanks

i HAVE A bROTHER se625 THAT IS NEW AND THE BACK BUTTON DOES NOT WORK. hOW CAN I FIX THIS

Can I place an order with you to customize my sons?

It is funny how long editing takes. My channel isn't very good but I still edit for hours on end. It is nothing to spend three hours to edit just two minutes of video. But, it is amazing how much I'm learning while playing with RUclips. Life itself is a big edit. tHanks for the review video!

How do you get rid of the MA logo at the bottom on the finished MP4?

All it does is bunch and jam up

What kind of oil do you use for your machine? I see that yours is orange

Awesome ❤

Hi, what needle size do you use?

When you unhoop a hat like that you’ll never have the same registration again. The secret to avoiding that is NEVER run out or bobbin when doing hats. :)

thank you

@Ttown Tshirts this is a great video! And where do you get your 4mm plastic from?

Good video, brother!!

That’s cool

Thanks Tim

We Run 1080 30-frames every week

30is lower than 60

Nicely done, great results and good information on what to do and not to do.

That was the perfect location, and great choice of font used, looks perfect ! Whats the name of the font you use ?

Where do you order your label tags for your tshirts and is it made from HTV, or something else ? Good video, thank you

Bad bad compressed air. Shoves debris further into gears! Think about it!

thank you for sharing

Here is a tip for you. Set your start point at the bottom of you cap designs. When you trace it saves a lot of time.

Hello, doubt about the coil. For 90%, the same tension works for me... but when embroidering very fine things, edges of 2 millimeters or less, or small letters, I have to put more tension on the bobbin, is this normal? or do I have to change something?

wow thank you!!

The accessory kit assumes you have the chuck on your rotary. Also, I noticed a few mistakes in the instructions. One, on the two pages where it explains which allen wrench to use (and which to not use) they are telling you to use the incorrect size allen wrench on both pages. Second, the kit includes new hex head screws but the instruction show you using the old pan head screws. Pretty easy to see the mistakes (as long as you're paying attention).

New subscriber , had my 1010 for a few months , paid cash used . Saving for software now . Any pros and cons for any brands would be appreciated ….I appreciate the content !

Watching now. Your 3:30 is not my 3:30. I appreciate the video!

Great video

❤ thanks bro … appreciate it

Nice video

hi man good video , where you buy this tool?

thank you..great info

Great Video thank you for the info, i will be buying one now👍🏼👍🏼

What thickness foam do you use from Joanne's? I've only found 2mm craft foam. Is that what you double up?

The caps turned out great!

Hey make sure you tell your digitizer to digitize for hats. Supposed to start from the center, bottom up, right to left because of the curvature of the hat.

Good video thanks looks good

Thanks for the content, that’s a good looking design. I use my thread nippers to cut the stitches and a small pair of needle nose pliers to pull the stubborn threads. I also put a few layers of “sticky backing” inside the hat after a repair to help patch the needle holes so there is something to grab onto and produce a good stitch.