- Видео 22
- Просмотров 31 539
MainelyMenswear
США
Добавлен 19 авг 2020
Welcome "results sewists" everywhere. Here I am, stepping out and claiming my territory! You may be a new sewist, or have years of experience. All are welcomed here. What unites us is the desire for better results.
Does RUclips need more sewing channels? Do I have anything new to add? Maybe none of that matters. Here I am, doing what I do, and ready to share what I've learned with you. What started as the blog The Japanese Pattern Challenge, grew to become MainelyMenswear. The message has remained unchanged... "Be your own luxury brand". I will show you how it's done.
Does RUclips need more sewing channels? Do I have anything new to add? Maybe none of that matters. Here I am, doing what I do, and ready to share what I've learned with you. What started as the blog The Japanese Pattern Challenge, grew to become MainelyMenswear. The message has remained unchanged... "Be your own luxury brand". I will show you how it's done.
Belvedere Waistcoat - Part 2 / Sewing off script for better results
The bagged lining of this pattern can be frustrating, difficult and often leads to disappointing results. In this video the Belvedere Waistcoat is completed using a different, less fussy technique. Stop struggling and start enjoying this pattern by sewing off script with me.
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www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus22
Theme music licensed through Audiosocket.com
Step Up 1
Chauncy Canfield
Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus
www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus22
Theme music licensed through Audiosocket.com
Step Up 1
Chauncy Canfield
Просмотров: 753
Видео
The Belvedere Waistcoat -- Part 1 / Why struggle when there are easier ways.
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.2 года назад
Have you struggled with this menswear pattern? I know that I have! Here are some tips that may help you achieve the results you're looking for. Join me as I sew "way off script". It's all about sewing for results. Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus22 Theme licensed through Audiosocket.com Step Up 1 Chauncy Canfield
Upping Your Welt Pocket Game
Просмотров 9532 года назад
There are many ways to make a welt pocket, and it's been my experience that some look better than others. In this video I replace the pockets on the Belvedere Waistcoat with a style that's a bit more polished IMO. This pocket can be applied to many garments, and it may be the look you've been after. Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus22 Theme li...
Quadra Jeans - Construction tips, Part 3
Просмотров 7342 года назад
The final video of my jeans journey. In this "non - sewalong" I'll be putting on the waistband, belt loops, and finishing off all the little details. You'll also see some vintage Singer attachments in action. Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus22 Theme music licensed through Audiosocket.com Step Up 1 Chauncy Canfield
Quada Jeans - Construction tips Part 2
Просмотров 6752 года назад
Join me on this "non-sewalong" as I work through the Qudra Jeans pattern by Thread Theory. In this video I talk about the zipper and the flat felled inseams. There is nothing to fear. Great jeans are within your grasp! Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus22 Theme music licensed through Audiosocket.com Step Up 1 Chauncy Canfield
Quadra Jeans - Construction tips, Part 1
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.2 года назад
Not exactly a "sew along". Follow me as I work through this popular men's pattern. I'll share what I learn as they come together. For many, jeans are the "holy grail" of sewing. My goal is to help you get the results you're looking for. Theme music licensed through Audiosocket.com Step up 1 Chauncy Canfield Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus22
Shirtmaking -- Matching the front of a plaid shirt
Просмотров 2,6 тыс.3 года назад
Do you aspire to making a well matched plaid shirt? Here are a few tips that may make the process easier to understand and carry out. Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus21 Theme music licensed through Audiosocket.com Step Up 1 Chauncy Canfield
5 Questions one take
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.3 года назад
#5questionsonetake I was tagged by Saremy at Sew Sew Live for this RUclips "challenge". I'm really not a competitive sewist but I've decided to participate. Over the years I've received so much support from the sewing community. This seems like a small way to give something back. I hope other sewists enjoy learning a little more about me. I've certainly been exposed to lots of new sewists throu...
Simple Tailoring -- The Set In Sleeve
Просмотров 6923 года назад
In this video you will see how I set a sleeve into a jacket or coat. There's nothing worse than sewing in a sleeve, only to find that there is a catch in it. Of course there's no guarantee that everything will be perfect. But these steps will greatly increase your chances of scoring that perfectly set sleeve. Please check out my British sewing friend Andrew for inspirational menswear and the ad...
Easy Tailoring --Lining a Set In Sleeve
Просмотров 8213 года назад
In this video you'll see a simple technique for lining a set in sleeve. It's not difficult. In fact, it's like a little sewing magic trick! I hope you'll give it a try on your next tailoring project. Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus21 Theme music licensed through Audiosocket.com Chauncy Canfield Step Up 1
Constructing a waistband with Ban-Roll interfacing
Просмотров 6 тыс.3 года назад
Take your trouser making to the next level with Ban-Roll. A truly professional grade waistband is within your grasp. I'll show you how it's done. Once you've used it you'll never go back to fusibles. Although this video references the Jedediah Pant from Thread Theory, the techniques apply to any trouser pattern. You can purchase Ban-Roll from B. Black & Sons www.bblackandsons Wawak www.wawak.co...
Jedediah Pants (and other trousers) -- Easy ways to simplify the construction.
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.3 года назад
The Jedediah pants pattern from Thread Theory is perhaps one of the most popular menswear patterns out there. In this video I show you how to simplify the construction by rearranging the order of sewing. Even if you're not making this pattern, this approach to trouser sewing can make the process much easier. Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus21
SLIDESHOW
Просмотров 4513 года назад
I've prepared this slideshow as an introduction to my work. Each section begins with the pattern used. Most are vintage. The pattern is followed by my garment. Often the pattern is just the starting point, and I've altered it to meet my vision. With the exception of the white shirt worn with the first suit, all the clothes are made by me. Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/vid...
Hemming a coat
Просмотров 3,9 тыс.3 года назад
In this video you will see how I hem a coat. Maybe it's a little old school, but the results speak for themselves. You may want to try this on your next outerwear project. Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus21 Theme music licensed through Audiosocket Step Up 1 Chauncy Canfield.
Reducing bulk at the facings when using hair canvas
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.3 года назад
In this video I show you how to replace the seam allowances on the canvas with muslin. This technique is used where a facing is applied to the front edge of a jacket, coat or vest. It's just another way to "up your game". Created with Movavi Video Editor Plus www.movavi.com/video-editor-plus-mac/?c=vemplus21
Making a mitered shirt vent -- Completing the miter - Part 3
Просмотров 7853 года назад
Making a mitered shirt vent Completing the miter - Part 3
Making a Mitered Shirt Vent -- The French seam, Part 2
Просмотров 6823 года назад
Making a Mitered Shirt Vent The French seam, Part 2
Making a mitered shirt vent -- "the do-over" Part 1
Просмотров 7353 года назад
Making a mitered shirt vent "the do-over" Part 1
Lovely result. All your sewing is fabulous. When I was young - back when home economics was still taught in high school , we used ban roll or a version of it even in women’s slacks. I really prefer it, such a lovely finish. I also like having a back center seam to the waistband with a little extra fabric. That way the pant is more easily altered at the waist if needed.
Thanks for liking the video. Yes, having extra fabric at the center back is a great idea, especially on a pair of dressier trousers. This pattern is for a pair of casual chinos and doesn't include that. But it would be very easy to redraw that seam.
I learned how to sew 50 years ago from sewing patterns. I’ve never before seen a hem like your tutorial produces. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
It's an old school method. More time consuming, but worth it in my opinion.
My daughter works in finance and we just went shopping for suits. All the suit jackets were about $1,000 and not that great. I’ve sewn a lot over the years, but not any jackets. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! You’ve inspired me to start sewing suit jackets.
In my desire to make the perfect jeans, I unfortunately got the ban-roll that is made of stiff woven threads. I put a section of it on each side of the zipper, running to the side seams and have an elastic section at the back of the pant. I made three pairs of pants this way and those stiff threads started poking me while I was wearing them. It was awful! I had to unpick each waistband to enclose the edges of the ban-roll in seam binding! The inch or so where the button and button hole are are the only places I couldn't reach to enclose the edges. I may eventually just redo the waistbands if I have enough fabric. Don't get the stiff woven thread style ban-roll! Lots of people use that style to make tiny roll hems. I really don't want 50 yards of the wawak ban-roll, so I'm looking for smaller amounts, but it is sometimes hard to tell what kind it is.
Thanks for your comment. I'm so sorry you had a bad experience. I have never had this problem since I run it all around the waistband. Your comment may help other sewists who are considering an elasticized back.
Great video! Thank you!🖤
I'm glad you found it helpful.
Lovely thank you so much for this tutorial
Thank you! I used your video for my first time making Jebediah trousers, and it turned out great!
I'm so glad the videos were helpful. Enjoy wearing your new Jeds.
Could you possibly do a full tutorial on these please as I've just brought the pattern and you video was the only one to come up. Thanks
I suggest watching the videos for the Quadra Jeans, as well as the video for Ban Roll. The construction is very similar, just the pocket is different.
I love you. All your skills are amazing. It helped me to do great tailoring. I am your audience and I'm one of many. I never commented, but WE are out here.
Thanks so much! My teacher is having us make jeans for our final and the instructions for this pattern aren't the best. Keep helping people you're awesome!!
I'm glad you find the videos helpful. Have fun making your jeans.
Could the Ban roll be used on women’s pants too?
Of course. It's perfect for anyone.
Thanks, Duane!
Do you roll pin the interfacing?
That's a new term for me. Not sure exactly what you mean.
watching this again...My sons' love waistcoats and I have finally worked on a couple. Each time, I come back and find another thing to make it better and easier It helps that I will understitch by hand because I find it relaxing...more relaxing than stitching closed the sides Seams require more strength than understitching
Maestro that is magnificent. Perfection.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I hope you'll give it a try.
Thank you so much! I made a pair of these pants for my son and found portions of the instructions very difficult to follow. A second pair has sat unfinished for months and just needs the waistband. I will be making 2 more belt loops and following your instructions to finish. Thank you!!!
I'm glad it was helpful. I think your son will appreciate the extra belt loops, and the ban roll will be a life changer for your sewing for both men and women.
Perfect, thank you!
Very helpful tutorial! Thank you so much for your careful and detailed instructions. 🙌
I’m looking to move away from fusible interfacings. This makes the transition seem much less intimidating. Thanks so much for this video
I came for the hand sewing. I removed the lining from my coat and would like to find a method of invisible stitching. The muslin layer to your lining is a great idea ( I don’t have one) but won’t it look strange when the jacket is open? Beautiful work.
The muslin strip is eventually covered by the lining, but it sounds like you're taking out a lining to have an unlined coat / jacket. In that case I would probably do a Hong Kong finish along the bottom edge and then hand sew the hem as invisibly as possible.
@@mainelymenswear Thanks. I’ll try my best.
If the seam allowance is 5/8, where am I doing the double basting? Is it on the seam allowance or just inside or outside of the seam allowance? Thanks in advance.
You can aim for doing it just inside the seam allowance. Even if you're a little off I wouldn't sweat it. Once you've sewn the sleeve and if everything looks good, just remove the basting soon. I always use a bamboo point turner rather than a seam ripper when removing basting. I've also heard of people using a knitting needle. Using a seam ripper can be dangerous. You don't need to accidentally poke a hole in your garment. Been there, done that.
Wow! Beautifully sewn all....
Found your video a bit too late for the waistcoat I was making for hubby, but I did somehow manage to sew on that back neck facing as per the instructions. I am now making myself a coat with the same technique but thought I'd give your method a go. I don't quite understand how you are attaching the bias strip. Are you simply wrapping it round the raw edge of the facing and turning up the bias piece to the back? So the bottom edge of the facing piece is not turned up by the seam allowance?
Nothing short of fantastic And thanks for the Ban Roll sourcing Awesome video ⭐️
I'm always glad to hear that these videos are helpful. I hope to be making more in the future.
The Belvedere series has been extremely helpful. I'm making my first men's jacket with an Italian wool and silk lining. This is also the first time I've used hair canvas. Very helpful videos.
I'm glad it's been helpful. Sounds like you're becoming a tailoring geek!
Just the sort of videos I've been searching for. Thank you 😊
I'm glad you found it helpful.
Need to sort your tension tho. Lotta dead flies on those back stitches. Great vids tho👍🏾🍺
Loved your comment about "somewhere out there someone is looking for a bit of knowledge that you have". I have gleaned quite a few tips from you and really enjoy your content. I got a chance to meet you back in NYC August 2019 at Peter's shopping trip and found you to be super nice. Keep sewing! and putting content out there. I enjoy your voice in the sewing community.
Thank you so much. I think many of us miss MPB Day! I sure do. Let's hope it can happen again.
Thats the absolute best way to make the placket i dont sew but i think thats the best look! Very rarely see details like that!
Thank you for watching!
Great information! Thank you
Your video was so clear and helpful. Thank you so much!
This is such a wonderful tutorial I had been struggling with making clean button up shirt side vents. Thank you so much you and Aloha from Hawaii
I'm going to give this pattern a try. I love making vests and have added my own facings and lining pieces before. I do the same thing you did. I just cut my lining the same size as the back and topstitch the facing to it. I will take your tip and Hong Kong finish it. I was turning the edge under and stitching in place. Your way is easier and another opportunity to use those scraps. Thank you.
I love it. You showed me how to work with the plaid fabric ❤thank you…
Thank you Duane, I found this really helpful. I'm going to have a go with the ban roll as you suggest. I particularly liked the professional finish inside the waist band with the bound edge and curtain. One sees this in traditional gentleman's suits, a nice touch.
Thank you for sharing your skills, it's very much appreciated. Greetings from North Wales UK
I'm so glad you found it helpful. I haven't posted for awhile because I'm in tailoring school full time. I hope to have more content once I graduate.
@@mainelymenswear I noticed you were over in the UK at tailoring school. Hope you're enjoying both the class and visiting us here in UK. Very best wishes with your studies, I look forward to seeing how you get on.
Thank you for making this video, I have done the Jedediah pants before and not been happy with the fly. This time following your advise no problem.
I'm always glad to hear that these videos are helpful. It makes it all worthwhile.
so glad I found your channel as I am learning how to make dress shirts for my little one. I'm excited to make him more clothes as he grows ☺️ (he's 8)
You are so welcome! As you may know I'm currently in the UK, so there won't be any new videos on my channel for many months. Hopefully what's here will be of use.
@@mainelymenswear oh yes i'll take my time going through your videos :)
This is the best trouser zipper insertion video I have seen. Very helpful!
Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful.
I'm making this waistcoat for my this and this is my first adventure into tailoring. Your videos have been so helpful! Thank you!
I tried the back facing hong kong finish and it worked beautifuly. Thanks so much.
I'm so glad you tried it. You'll be able to bring that technique to other projects in the future.
Hello Duane, and thank you so much for your wonderful video. I'm an experienced sewer, but never used hair interfacing before. I learned so much watching this and the video about the darts. Im making a 1949 Vintage Vogue pattern V1669, coat with some jade green velvet, a remnant given to me by my Ma, left over when she made herself an evening gown in 1964! I wont add a photo but go check out the collar, it's divine!
I'm so glad you found it helpful. That's a spectacular coat. I love making outerwear. It's so satisfying.
@@mainelymenswear hi, Duane, and thanks for your reply, I apologise for my tardy response, but been away visiting. The pattern doesn't require any support across the upper chest and shoulders, but I want to make mine quite, not crisp, but properly tailored and was wondering if I might use the hair interfacing for this? regards, Pete
@@petrouschkababouschka2827 I totally would. I have never regretted any amount of structure in my outerwear.
Thanks for the detailed tips. I'm getting ready to start one of these for my husband and will follow your method for closing.
Thank you. I'm glad you're finding the videos helpful.
Thanks for posting this. The two Jedediah videos have been really helpful to me. I just completed my second pair with much better fly and waistband thanks to your advice. I struggled to find Ban roll in Scotland so ended up with something called Petersham which seems to work pretty well. The one thing that still gives me grief is the top stitching on the seat seam. Stitching from the right side and catching the two seam allowances (which I bound together and pressed to one side) seems nigh on impossible to do smoothly. Should I be binding the seam allowances separately and pressing them out flat and just catching the one seam allowance? This doesn't seem very clear from the instructions.
I'm glad the videos have been helpful. There are two ways to finish of the back seam. You can bind both back seams, sew the seam and press everything open. This is the way to go if you want to add extra material at the back so that the trousers could be let out in the future. If you're sure about the fit, press both seam allowances to the left side of the pant. (if you're working from the inside of the pant, press to the right). You can then apply the bias binding. You may want to trim the lower seam allowance to reduce bulk in the seam; in which case you're just binding the uppermost seam allowance. Now baste that seam into position. The basting is key and will give you the control you need to keep the curve without distorting everything. Then you can confidently topstitch 1/4" from the outside. Just stitch slowly as you approach the crotch, minding the distribution of the material.
Thanks so much for the comprehensive explanation, I'll give all of that a try.
As a newer sewist, I've been really baffled by the fly instructions on these trousers. This video helped it click into my brain a little easier, thank you so much !
I'm glad it helped you. Zippers can be a real mind-bender. I just take it step by step.
You are awesome! Love your videos, all the way from Australia!
Thank you for watching them!
I have followed your blog and always wished you had a RUclips. I would love to make my own jackets and being able to watch you, will help me to learn . You’re amazing welcome ps I know I’m late but just happened to check and see if your old blog was up and it brought me here 😀
glad you found it! As you can see I don't post very often. (It's more work than I ever imagined!). Much depends of the project of the moment. If I'm working on something that may be of value, I slow down and put together a video.
Fantastic video, I'm so glad I came across it. I will be applying this technique to my project. X
I'm glad it was helpful. I'm curious how you found it. What were you searching for? I don't have many videos, but I'm open to providing the kind of information that other sewists are looking for.
I go to the thrift store and buy sheets, curtains and tablecloths to use for practice garments, saves money.
Me too!
Wow! You have some serious skills! Very professional.
Thank you. I learn something new from every project.
Hello, thank you for creating a RUclips channel and your videos. I only started watching them now, but when you said:”Man, I can’t tell you how much I love the sound of the machine!” I had to comment, because, so do I!!! I have a 201 myself and I love the looks it’s functionality, that it’s all solid material and build to last, but most of all why I love the old singer is the sound!!! And I love to see that there is another guy out there being into sewing and those old, superior machines! Thank you!
Thanks so much for your comment. I don't think I mention it in the video, but that machine was rescued from the town dump in Boothbay Harbor, Maine. Someone clearly didn't appreciate its value. I cleaned it up and rewired it thanks to some excellent videos produced by Bob Fowler. Now I'm on the search for them constantly. In my dreams I hope to open a maker space filled with them. A place where people can experience their abilities AND their magical sound. Speaking of magical sound, your talent blows me away. Be well. Keep playing and sewing!
@@mainelymenswear thank you so much. You reworded your machine? Did you rewire the motor? If you have knowledge in repairing and setting up those machines, please share that as well, that would be greatly appreciated!