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Its from the humidity

Thanks for the info. Some people suggest using Mercedes oem sensor only. Just trying to see if that’s a must. Thanks again.

Did you get the oem sensor from dealership?

Don't strip so much , wires do NOT HAVE TO GO OAST CONNECTOR , THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO BE BACK FED

Look they’re both hushed 0:17

They gone off again

Oh man that sucks

Yup, just did mine and that bad boy was stuck. It took me an hr of working it with every tool I could think of, tapping it, pic set etc... I finally got it. After replacing the rear the front went bad. I guess if you change one it's best to cha ge them all.

Smoke alarms. I hate talking and shrieking my lungs out.

If it’s going off it won’t hush there’s no smoke it’s just the battery’s that could be on fire

No You just have bad nest protects

Cuándo estás

As a smoke alarm collector, this only applies to the 1st gen Nest Protects, you had 1st gens. 2nd gen doesn’t false alarm. I have a second gen Nest Protect. It never false alarmed on me before, I got back in early 2021.

Thank you for the video! Do you happen to have a part number for those fuses?

By the way if you have only one 3157 or 3057 filament burnt out, you could flip it in a turn signal or back up bulb socket and use it some more as those sockets only use one of the filaments and rotating the bulb permits you to use the other one of the filaments which probably did not burn out

Left and right connectors at body electrical connection ( not at bulb ) are KEYED DIFFERENTLY so make sure you get passenger or driver side that you need

Menards had a made in the USA "heavy duty mirror & picture hanger" made by HANGMAN for a 30 inch set of rails for less than the shorter Home Depot 24 inch rails..... Cut them to size...hand the top one on the post, use clamps to alight the pickets to the post.... Mark with a pencil, and screw while aligning. I did the top rail with a single screw per picket then the bottom rails doing my best to match the hanging slat rails to the pitch of the rails on the post.

You bought the wrong one. The gl450 2012 sensor is different than the gl350 and ML and older 450s. The 2011-12 uses a plug with a 85 degree angle plug. The older vehicles use an exactly 90 degree angle plug.

this is why i dont reccomend Nests, thanks for the video though!

glows in dark city

Here right now. She's stuck on good!

😅 0:06

For the sake of argument, if you remove the thermal fuse and connect the two leads together, and the motor still doesn't work, can one assume the fuse was not at fault? What the heck else would fail or a motor that looks almost as clean and new as the day it was purchased? Mine is about 8 years old but in a powder room so it hardly ever was used. Very disappointing that it would fail. A much cheap noisy fan in a bathroom with a shower looks like hell is is pushing 40 years old.

How long did it take? What new starter did you change it with. Prices ranged from 100 -500 from napa oreilly autozone etc.

Hi Mark, do you recall if this boiler was salvageable? We just moved into a home where the owners didn't properly flush or maintain the steam boiler and it's likely got a lot of sludge/clogging going on. Curious if a simple treatment can help?

Get a new alarm

You Saved my range! Electrolux discontinued my part. If it wasn’t for your video I would have a burner that didn’t work. Thank you!!!!

😚 ᑭᖇOᗰOᔕᗰ

after studying this nylon quick disconect for a couple days , I found that the GM 5/16 return & 3/8 fuel line om my 95 grand prix w body thats less than 3 feet long that run from top of gas tank to the other side bottom edge of fuel tank where it meets fuel filter and other line. The quick disconects with orings are on each end ,so two 5/16 ends and two 3/8 ends . I found It wasn't just the rust that wrecked them, as there is a tool needed to remove them from the steel line, to release the hooks of the white plastic retainer (doorman 800-016) the tool I used is Lisle # 3700, it's a split plastic tube that is thin & will slide along line & RELEASE the hooks from white. So some people say just push in & squeeze the white thing to release the hooks. I found that to only work nce in a while , so when they act stuck use the real special tool before beating on them with something and putting marks in them with vicegrip holding the black end. So if you've wrecked them where the rust pulls all the o-rings and spacer's out or if they came apart normal with out a fight & the orings are just leaking you can replace them using the gut;s out of a replacement enf by doorman Dorman # 800-080 for 5/16 and the doorman 800-082 for the 3/8 if your ends are ok, but orings leaking, first you use a small screwdriver through the square hole thats on each side of the end like in the video, to get the tappered end piece off . there are 4 total pieces first comes the tappered end piece, then the first (yellow) O-ring/ then the plastic spacer & furthest inside last out first in red O-ring of coarse if your strippin the orings out of the doorman replacement end these fit in the factory gm quick disconect line ends to fix them. but U have to tear the guts out with out damaging the orings I used a little circle wire connector &crimped on a connector piece of wire for a handle even solder it to keep from slipin bend on a 45 degree has to be the right conector to fit throu the oring kind of use it for a washer on a handle and pull o-ring and spacer 1 at a time and inspect. a brand new # 2 pencil with a new eraser to help push back in and when it's all corect and oly when its all corect you will hear a loud bang as the out side tappered piece has a snap to it as it fits in it's final position just a bit lower than the square hole. the video helps exolain stuff but I had lost my out side piece thta nsaps when in place . I first had two rolls of nylon fuel line at cost of fifty and sixty a 25 ft roll and the ends that fit that are more expensive than the doorman, was going to make my ownline & not use the factory. the parts store says that what garages do. I might of put the doorman ends on my factory lines but the factory (line new are over 100 each and only had 1 left for sale in the us GM dealers. so that was out), repeat the facory lines have a protective line over the nylon gas line so you really can't see what your doing even after heating them up in boiling water and getting a factory end of can't see the inside line to see if it split or what ever

Mark Here's a link that you can forward to friends. I recently used Cynch and they gave me a special offer to share with my friends. I’m treating you to an exclusive $10 flat for a tank exchange on your first order. I’ll also get a reward, so it’s a win-win! Get $10 flat for your first tank exchange at Cynch cynch.mention-me.com/me/referee/registerko/106570327/426879384/em/cb16d1349de0df9f2e35e78f0d58bcfb5c6cb163/fe/cw?epr=1

I've pulled out two different 1995 grand prix w body, steel fuel tanks, each tank "IT" was the 5/16 line "always", that was difficult if not inpossible to break free from the rusted line . I noticed the 3/8 line had just as much rust coming away from the steel ridge,on the steel line, the plastic retainer clip touche's, the rust came out 3/8 inch or so, BUT, still allowed me to get the line off by just squeezing the white retainer in. But the wierd thing is when I'm just trying to see how the white plastic GM retainer works by wire brushing the rust off the fuel pump line, and using the steel line to see how the retainer works. I can't see even with out the fuel line in the way how pushing the white retainer in makes it possible to release the hook thing around the steel ridge , maybe it works different in the gas line, but then it covers up your vision on see it release over the ridge. I gfuess I don't fully understand it as I didn't invent such a thing that can leave you struggling way longer than you figure just to unhook a couple gas lines > I suppose when ther new and not 27 years old they work like a charm.

glad i found your video couldn't find any one else that would explain whats inside the gm quick disconect as I had to struggle with it for a long time and all these little parts came out the end due to age ( 1995 grand prix W body ) rust might of had something to do with it as the gas tanks never been changed so 27 years old Everybody else showed doormand replacement end and not sure if my end is to far gone and need cut off or not , BACK TO YOUR VIDEO THKS

It's gonna happen a bunch of times

ThIs is great! Thank you for sharing 👍

Mylar coil dimensions are 102.91mm width rolled onto a 10mm center spool resulting in a coil thickness of 41.47mm

Thanks for the tips, it's not a bad job and definitely no need to remove the engine mount or exhaust manifold on my 2010 GL550. Star Diagnostic says that's only necessary for the V6.

Run them over with a car.

This doesn’t prove that there dangerous in fact there not there life saving devices it’s lack of maintenance that causes it you need to vacuum or blow out dust every few months to prevent this. Also the older models have more problems with dust. Just clean them.

These smoke alarm are expensive toys. Invest in the best REAL smoke alarms you can get...

Why does it say “heads up the power is out” I thought it would be disabled due to a power cut (I’m British so we say power cut not power outage)

Why didn't you just take out the batteries?

Try a factory reset. Simply hold down the button for 5 seconds. If it tells you the version number, you've done it right.

it does this because there's dust and it needs to be cleaned

2.0 nest protect is pretty safe. it does not send lots of false alarms in the 2.0 nest protect

they are defective.

Pretty informative, thanks!

Great to see the inside of the motor! Cheers for the video!

i konw the feelind my old kept on chirping so thro it away and got nest

Wwwwe qe

Take the batteries out if its battery operated