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"That is a nice little kit. Two things I noticed in the build: there is no access to the little room at the back, and there is a slight gap at the base of the main roof to the canopy at 31.03. If the capping stones were a bit longer, that would cover the gap, but what would it look like at the ends?" I am not having a go about the build. Martin. (Thailand)

Add wieght to the dummie stock same wieght as loco

What width did you finish up with for the platform?

Pity they have discontinued it now, l can never understand a company doing this.

What length of track on a straight do you need you need to fit this 5 car set on please?

Love the bird song

Beautiful model. Bit expensive.

Good！

Metcaliffe OO scale seem reasonable cost, but their N scale seem expensive.

Thanks for filming this, really helpful to understand what the kit can do and what is required of the builder.

Yeah this happened to me, my HST ringfield motor started smoking after dcc conversion. I've now upgraded to a CD motor kit and it runs a dream.

Where abouts are you based I’m on the Devon Somerset boarder and could use a guiding hand and some lessons!

Looks good, I was pondering these in the shop today. How wide are the sections and columns?

A little late to the party, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this post, to control two points with one switch, use a double pole switch - each side wired to the appropriate point you want to control . . . easy-peasy

Love the kits, but how would you mask the white strip on outer corners of building... formed when bending the card?

Can you show a video of how you set up the servos please? Very interested to know and use this system.

My modeling experience has been so much better this time around due to you folks sharing your amazing techniques! Thank you to all who do so.

Good tutorial 👍 beautiful building, only the roof tiles look a bit flat.

I guess you paid a few bob for that set, I've been after one for ages but alas the price was to high! Now as I waited I'm glad I did because I picked up off ebay no frills I got two class 43s one loco the other the dummy end pluss 2 coaches £175 which was a steal for that, I had 2 gwr standard trailer coaches, now I have 2+4 set for less than what you paid for your 2 loco set.....

So, I have to ask, where has this progressed to?

I will be at Barnstable station next April. Door colour - could try scanning it, then in Paint [or whatever] change the colour, print it on to a piece of thin paper and stick it on top before you put it together [and paint the edges???]. Excellent video, really enjoyed watching it. Metcalf are good, such attention to detail and cleverly thought out. Love the accent, was born in Somerset, now living in Florida.

Watered down layer of cheap filler helps the paint from sinking into the plaster ..

Great 👌

Hi from Garth Close from South Africa great job on the model train station 👋😄

The reason they don’t fit is because they are designed for 40ft and 20ft containers not 45ft

It's amazing how easy these new motors are to fit just remember to add a good diode other wise your burn the motor out in a few weeks

TIN FOIL MOULD GREAT innovative idea - gained the needed strength by sticking three ! THANK YOU SIR!

Like video."thumbs up from me".Hope there more

looks great this class 66 video .Like it very much.Take care

Sorry to be a numpty, but you didn't say how you made the holes AFTER you had laminated the layout design.

I'm trying to find an explaining to why to use glue between the foil layers but haven't so far so I'll just ask. 😀 Why do you glue between?

nice additions. that 66 is especially sweet.

A bunch of comments about ways to improve the method but none with videos of the improvements. Thank you for trying this and showing us the results.

Great tutorial, after some vids I've watched on panel construction, a simpler one is refreshing. One question, you mentioned soldering, and this scares the hell out of me too, but, all the vids I've seen have shown the wires being soldered to the switch connectors. Could I not use crimped female connectors instead, or is it a longevity/connectivity issue? Many thanks.

Wow. That embankment has been transformed and you made it look so easy too. Thanks for sharing this!

The importance of pre-tinning with flux cannot be over stated, I also clean the rail by scratching it to remove any oxide. Pre-tinning will reduce the contact time and reduce the chance of dry joints. I've always been a bit worried about sleeper melt, especially around points, but in practice it hasn't been too much of a problem. There is the argument that if you cool the track, it means you might have to keep the iron in contact for longer. The flux I have used leaves a residue, which goes green and is not great. The problem with the fishplate approach is that the rail underneath may oxidise, get dirty or come loose leaving you with poorer conductivity. Enjoying the series - I have subscribed!

What glue did you use please

I am using these kits to make my station platforms and I think it is a very good kit. For some reason the last one I built, which is 3 feet long, I have made it too narrow. I am now sure if I have enough spare pieces left to widen it. Thanks for making the video. I did try to shout out "Fit the inner ramp strengtheners first" Martin. (Thailand)

Man I found this tinfoil mold method earlier today, and I gotta say it’s friggen awesome! The crunchiness of the foil makes rock faces with the perfect jaggedness and craggyness for my N scale Durango and Silverton RR Highline diorama. I don’t even use glue, just kept folding in half till I got a good size, I made 5 different molds and the results so far are amazing, I can’t wait to see how it all comes together...soon.

Thanks for an informative post. I have built this N gauge and I have found that the trick to concealing joints and edges is careful use of watercolors or colored pencils. Running a 2B pencil along the edges before butting the platform surfaces together goes a long way towards concealing the joint. I can't see the joints in my platforms unless I look very carefully.

I use MegaPoints extensively on my layout and fully recommend the system. See my videos on topic. Regards Barry

Looks to me like the rails are buckled from side to side as well as up and down. I agree with the guys who said you need to replace the whole section.

You need a tiny gap between rails at joiners.

Well done with these kits. The roofs need flashings around base of chimneys and down joins in roof. (Just fold over a small length of thin card into a v - shape). Also at the back each chimney needs a pot as they service 2 houses.

Go round the track with a small screwdriver to get bits of ballast from inside of the track/rails.

Your cork underlay is too wide.

Good video. How about setting up one length of flexitrack as a test track for programming? Also a rolling road will allow running in.

Most of the youtube videos I have watched they all solder dropper wires to every piece of track or every 12 inches. some have conductivity problems with soldering to fishplates - also expansion can be a problem too. A loft can go from very hot to very cold.

You should leave a gap between the track/join for expansion.

Good video. Which toggle switches did you buy?