Видео

Unas letras mas pequeñas en los textos permitirian una mejor visualizacion de su proyecto. Muy buen trabajo, felicitaciones y exitos.

A nice build, someone will get a very nice car. 👍

Found you ,Paul (yellow audi cab) 👍

👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿🙏

Going to look great nice attention to detail.

a nice wee video of Cape Wrath I live in Thurso Caithness I must pop up one day and see it thanks

great work i had a austin 7 roadster in melbourne australia i can remember it was very low and would boil if i stopped inn traffic

Hi. When I made my Cannon trials car 'road-legal' 30-odd years ago [registered, chassis no. etc etc] I used what was cheap and available in those days...namely a Halfords electronic bicycle speedo. The head was about the size of a wrist watch...which was a bit of a nuisance, but the bits that did the reading, were a magnet [which was supposed to attach to a bicycle front wheel spoke] and a sensor, on a bracket. I attached the magnet to the top of a front brake drum, [I think I glued it there?} , with the sensor attached to a fixed point [brake back plate, IIRC?]. It worked very well indeed. I did wonder why a bicycle speedo should be able to read up to 120 mph, however....

So, if I just hooked up a mains power supply,(or trickle charger) to a battery, then to the heater, would the eventual battery drain automatically start a shutdown sequence? I dont have the skill to build your unit, but I do want to protect against mains power cuts

Slightly different question Alistair, how did you come across the Jeffrey and how is it performing? I have a Reliant engine in my Gould bodied Ulster replica and would be interested in your modifications. Many thanks, Martin 😊

Thanks Alistaire,

Thank you Alistair, where did you get them?

Hello Alistaire, could you tell me your wheel size please

Absolutely fabulous! Sharing to 7Spot!

have you tried pushing the knife holder back? Usually the blade only heats up when its being pushed, like when cutting a tire.

Hi There! Just a question as I am electrically challenged the Powe supply runs the heater but if the power to the shop is interrupted (like a power outage ) the battery will automatically come on or do you manually have to press the switch?

A lot of work and mostly beyond most A7 owners , kits were available years ago but no longer

Hi Alastair, great project work as always. Would I be able to have a copy of the remote change drawings to peruse please?

nice work! Would be good to see the 'guts' of it Alistair.

fantastic work alastair. i think your build is brilliant and i can wait to see it. you defiantly deserve more subscribers !

Looking forward to implement this. One question. Why is a 200V diode needed? Wouldn't be 20V diode enough?

Hi Alastair, A quick question, your schematic shows the switch to the heater as a straight forward on/off switch but inside the die cast box it looks like it has 3 wires going to it, the black on the left is the [ - ] common ground to the heater, the battery and the power supply, the blue to the [ + ] side of the heater and the black on the right looks like it goes to the middle pin of the Schottky diode, is this correct and if so how come the blue and black wire (left side of the switch) don't short when the switch is operated. I'm not saying it's wrong as I'm a layman and not qualified to criticise, I might be seeing things that aren't there, it's the bunch of black wires at the schottky that's throwing me, I can't really tell what's connected to what.

I just found this post today. Who is your parts supplier?

Just love these guys who know what they are talking about. No nonsence. No clickbait. Just a great explanation

I use my Jackery 270 to provide 12v and keep the Jackery on the 110v wall charger. I already had it so it didn’t add to the cost of the heater and I can use the usb chargers at the same time. In a van it is nice to have heat without being connected to shore power.

Great video. You should build and sell them. Would love to have one for the heater i just purchased.

Brilliant design, so simple yet effective, no moving part, no troublesome relay, no active components required, no interruption of the 12V to heater when mains supply fails. Shut down takes only 4Ah so with 50% discharge, a 10Ah battery will be sufficient and is much cheaper than the 20Ah battery. Well done Alistair.

Hello Alastair, please explain your reasons for specifying a 20Ah 12V battery. The shut down phase lasts only a few minutes and 10A is drawn for even shorter duration. Since it is the most expansive item in your list, would a lower Ah battery be OK?

Hi Alastair. Just wiring up the unit but trying to compare schematic connections to your video. In schematic, it seems to show the resistor-diode connected directly to positive side of battery - bypassing fuse - but in the video around 4:56, it look like you have the resistor-diode soldered to the leg of the Schottky diode and then to tab of fuse? - in effect, adding a bit of protection to battery from the PSU. Or, does it matter which side of the fuse it is connected to? From a wiring point of view, it’s easier to wire up in the box if it’s going through the fuse before going to battery. Thanks

Try: ebay:285064033146

Hi there,excellent advice,any idea wher i might source 14v power similar to your,many thanks.

Good job❤sir

Good job sir❤

I have no idea about the charging characteristics of a lithium battery as the circuit has a trickle charge resistor.

Hi Alastair. I've just received all the parts to build the battery backup but I have query in relation to your schematic and the way the Schottky diode appears mounted in the case. Have you insulated the Schottky Diode from the die cast case in terms of Pin 2 being the common cathode. If not, Would that technically make the whole die cast case also ''Common cathode' or is there an insulator under the Schottky Diode and the mounting bolt/nut made of plastic. Many thanks. Declan

Hi Alastair. I have an S-410-13.8 (DC Output 13.8 30A) PSU and was just wondering if 13.8V was sufficient to trickle charge a car battery given that I’m led to believe a car alternator operates at 13.8v. I’m also looking at this video which uses an SLA battery. ruclips.net/video/vKuEASqEdK0/видео.htmlsi=l0QNoS1XT1k6rkcD Granted, as the contributor says, this unit and battery combination won’t start the heater. It’s mainly used to operate the cool-down sequence. I do plan to somehow link my setup to solar so that I’m completely ‘off-grid’ Many thanks. Declan

Looks great

Great project, which will produce a stunning A7 single seater. Something I have always coveted but am now too old to ever have.

Great project. In BC (Canada) it is a wee bit more difficult to have a new spaceframe based vehicle made street legal. Here’s an example of how a friend has approached the challenge. … ruclips.net/video/txadtB3rV10/видео.htmlsi=n0VIoYDl52FMQnS2

Lovely work! Great to catch the mood of the event.

Has anyone ever fitted disc brakes to a little Austin 7?

Just what I was looking for ... Thanks a bunch Alastair !

Spotted myself and a few of my friends in your video! Great going guys! I’ll be on the lookout for you next year. Ride safe 🫶🏼

Loved it. Very moving 🥰

very relaxed form of motorsport, looks great fun

Gave up a second time due to the music drowning out commentary. Sad.

Spoilt by music over the commentary 😢

Nice 7. Where is the track? I'm guessing Scotland 😁

Nice video Alastair, thanks for filming!

LEVE E RÁPIDO ! 👍