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ExitThirteen
Добавлен 20 янв 2007
My own NPC/RC modulation mod. Quick analysis.
This a form of an NPC/RC asymmetrical modulation mod I developed a few years ago. Yes, I know I say ALC a couple times in the video, I meant AMC, which is the adjustment for the AM modulation (VR12). ALC is for SSB. Change R228 from 560 ohm to 1.5K ohm. Change TR41 from 2SC1419 to TIP41C (this isn't 100% necessary, just provides more headroom). Add 1uF, non-polarized capacitor between pin 9 of the TA7222(AP) audio IC and the junction of R228/D63/R194. Set dead key with VR10 to 1.5-2W, adjust VR12 (AMC) for about 80% negative peaks or until negative peak clipping does not show on oscilloscope.
Просмотров: 532
Видео
A way to spot fake Toshiba 2SC2879's!
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.4 года назад
Quick video describing another way to spot legitimate Toshiba 2879's VS. fake Toshiba 2879's off Ebay and other sites. Don't be fooled! Be careful and do your research. Also, the auction is for 10 pieces, not a single piece as I originally thought. Wanted to add that in for clarity.
Orange Micro Dark Amplifier Modification, preamp tube
Просмотров 18 тыс.4 года назад
How to increase output and gain on your Orange Micro Dark or Micro Terror amp with just a tube swap.
Uncut: Motiv Supra and Tank Blitz ball review
Просмотров 3 тыс.4 года назад
Showing off the Motiv Supra and Tank Blitz
By Russian valves
Its made in china. So of cause you need to change the valves.
Ive noticed there is always some jerk who likes to make negative comments about what you are doing or saying in these cb radio videos and its usually the card carrying ham operators who view themselves as being better than anyone else who is interested in radio operations. I think its cool what you are doing and very educational to those who dont already know everything. I could easily pass the joke of a test that hams take to get their license but I have no desire to talk to people who are arrogant and unfriendly and require a license to speak on their government controlled channels. I just want the know it all types like the one criticizing your stuff here that they dont impress anyone with their crap and if they dont like what you are doing here just ignore it and move on their comments are not needed and not welcomed by the people who are so far beneath them.
This is not a negative peak limiter but it does effect modulation asymmetry. More correctly it could be called a negative modulation depth limiter. Therer is a difference. You called the AM regulator a "pass regulator" and that is only half of it's function, that is the DC function. The AC part of it's function is a voltage modulator which is the correct name for the circuit. If you understood what the scope is showing you'd know what is actually happening. Yes the crossover distortion is eliminated and that is a good thing, but the positive modulation peaks are around 100%/no more than a stock radio. The negative peak crossover elimination is happening because the carrier is rising under modulation then falling back to the preset value with no modulation. When the carrier rises the modulation percentage drops, both positive and negative. If you had changed the time constant the carrier would respond more quickly and you would have true amplitude controlled carrier or just "controlled carrier" which 11M operators call "swing mode". It's been around since the 1950s and was invented to reduce the plate dissipation of final tubes. Heath and Globe built it into some of their transmitters. It wasn't popular with the Hams at the time because they did not like to see the S Meter moving with modulation. Many Hams disabled it and went back to normal AM for this reason. With your mod the only reason the received audio on the other end would be any louder than a stock radio is if you drive the mic amp and modulator circuit harder to increase the average power. The single tone still shows full PEP because it drives the voltage modulator harder than a speech waveform. The average power in a speech waveform is low. With a true negative peak limiter or compressor the carrier does not swing up, it remains at a constant value, the negative audio peaks are limited/clipped to limit negative modulation peaks to below 99% and the positive peaks can be driven to any modulation percentage you want. The proof of what I've written is right there on your scope.... the time constant of the response in the voltage modulator circuit is so slow you can watch the carrier rise with modulation then fall back down on the scope. You'd also see this if you switched the wattmeter to average power. If you had an actual professional AM modulation monitor this would also show you what is really happening. LOL BTW, you're about 35 years behind the curve on this type of mod because I did it starting in 1988 on many radios incl Cobra 2000/Cobra 148 and many others although I did it a little differently, mine did not have the slow time constant like yours does. The radio could be set to any power level even milliwatts and still swing to full power when modulated without crossover distortion. I did this type of mod on hundreds of radios through my shop. Well at least any radios you or anyone else modifies like this and adjusts correctly won't be splattering and that's a good thing. With the garbage AM detector in all CB radios any modulation above about 75% is distorted, the higher the modulation percentage the greater the distortion, it's the inherent nature of a diode detector so there's really no point in trying to increase the positive modulation percentage unless you like sounding distorted. Increasing the average power through speech clipping and compression/increased modulation density aka "talk power" is far more effective. Final note: when you do achieve a true asymmetrical audio waveform that also is a form of distortion but nothing near as bad as the crossover distortion and splatter from negative modulation in excess of 99%.
Ideally, you would want to demonstrate how these tubes sound in a mix.
I bought one of these amps...its back in the box...its a paper weight.
W ball
Good info, thanks à
Just bought this amp today and was really dissatisfied with the gain tone because the videos I've seen makes this amp sound like a beast lol but when I tried 4 different guitars and multiple pedals it just sounded like a empty garbage can lol...I went to guitar center bought a tung-sol 12ax7 for like 28 bucks and popped it in and DUUUUUUUDE HUGE DIFFERENCE !!!!! AND MY IBANEZ GRG200pa just showed up in the mail this morning...so today is an awesome day for me because I have a new sound as of October 18 2023!!! Thanks for making these little videos about just some great advice about getting more tone out of this product 🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟
What about an EL34 winged C Svetlana. Thats whats in my MArshall JCM 200 DSL 50 EL34 is that Brit sound.
27.455LSB 210 Riverside California
ruclips.net/video/AaJ7Yy0kym0/видео.html My 148
this was very helpful. I've never tried a tube amp. I'm planning to buy the orange micro dark. Do you need to reprogram the board of the amp whenever you change tubes? I've always been a solid state guy, and no nothing about tubes. This would be a cool start if I could get some info. Thanks.
No it's super easy no need to reprogram any board or anything just take the screws out take off the top and simply wiggle the old tune out and pop a new one in it literally only took me a couple minutes .. I also used a can of air to blow out the board as it gets a little dusty over time ....plug it in and turn it on man and let that new tube warm up for a few minutes and it's ready to go man ..super easy
Never listened to original JJ, nos Corsair now. just had to try it and no reason yet to try anything else.
Great video man
Maple Lanes?
Yessir! Maple Lanes!
Polished?
This was at box finish with some lane shine.
Nice 4 step approach. Really gave that ball the business
Thank you! Funny story about that, I've had several coaches look at my game over the years, and according to today's modern bowling, I do pretty much everything WRONG. Most of them can't figure out how I am able to do what I do, yet get the results that I do. I just try to keep things simple, and that has kept me bowling well all of these years. 🙂
jj tesla all so good vibe and chip price
Very Nice Results, but this is just a normal npc mod for this radio. Also, try this same test with a 300,400,500hz tone like a male voice, and also thru the mic itself, not injected.
Wtf? That sustain man
It's insane. I have since upgraded to better amps, but I still have the guitar, it sounds even better now that I have better amps and cabs! For the record, that was the guitar fed directly into the amp, with no pedal. Just the guitar and the amp.
That JJ ECC83S that came stock and the Groove Tubes ECC83S are the exact same tubes. It’s possible that the GT one is just testing higher for gain.
Do you still have this instrument and if yes, is it for sale?
I still have it, but it is not for sale. I REALLY enjoy this guitar!
why the fuck are you pulling the tubes out when its powered on?!?!?
Why can't I? Care to explain why I can't remove the preamp tube out of this amp while it's on?
I would encourage people to employ the most safe strategies when messing around with / working on amps, especially. Without question safety is the 1st priority and risk minimization is part of practicing good safety methods. Turning off the amp and unplugging it from the electrical wall socket only makes sense as the first step toward establishing a safe amp to work on. Shortcuts are often taken in order to save time. A person should have more than enough time on their hands before working inside an amp. It is more possible to make accidental mistakes when a person is in a rush, frenzied, or anxious. It is a good idea to have more than plenty of time for your job. And it is a good idea to look at yt's and think your way into the tube replacement job beforehand. So when you actually start the tube swap you have confidence that the situation is safe, with all of the anticipated tools and equipment already laid out. The best results are achieved when a person is diligent and informed. On the other hand you definitely don't want an innocent person copying you and doing that, and getting hurt. No. Definitely not. This is good reason alone not to do it.
Original 1:59 Long plate ECC 803s 2:55 Groove premium ECC 83S 4:11 RCA 7025 5:18
Tried the RCAs. They were velvety smooth but wrong for the Orange tone. Those feel at home in a Fender or 6L6 tone. New TungSol was runner up as it was girthy, clear and textured, but was actually an old Mullard 12AT7 which weirdly had as much gain as the RCA but TONS of mid-range texture and a 30-year aged Scotch quality to it. Cherry ontop is they're easy to find and not expensive. Win/Win.
I got a Tungsol 12AT7, absolutely love the cleans with it.
what does the red dot mean on a 2sc2879?
The red dot indicates that the transistor is RoHS compliant. The non red dot transistors have a material in them called beryllium oxide, which can be very toxic to humans. The red dots do not have this material in them. RoHS stands for Restriction of Hazardous Substances.
@@ExitThirteen thanks i did a bit of research and found that out! apparently the red dot are not quite so good at handling very high temp! got 4, 2sc2879 red dot finals in mine and all still working fine!
@@andrewknight6853 Just make sure you have plenty of heatsink compound in between the transistors and the heatsink, spread evenly, and you'll be fine! I run my stuff pretty conservative, about 14.2V and 20-25W PEP, and they'll outlive me. LOL
For more grit, you should definitely try the Groove Tube 12AX7-C (made in China). I swapped the Sovtek tubes from my amp to these ones. As the result, my dirty channel got a boost of testosterone.
i’ve got a groove tube in mine and it sounds great. my only thing is i run an me-80 with the amp and i always have on EQ, which tightens and cleans up the sound, Reverb, Chorus, which cleans up a little, and Delay. so are there any other higher gain tubes? or does the “high gain” option on tube depot do anything?
@@butchered_deathmetal The best thing to do is to change the speaker, if yours is not a suitable one. I changed my Celestion Seventy 80 for a Eminence Texas Heat, and now my Traynor YCV-40 breathes. The right speaker is what's going to make the most difference. What I said about the GT 12AX7-C is still true, though.
Quick question.. you said you changed the am pass regulator and resistor 228 but you didn’t say what you change them to.. never mind I just read it in the description for the video I am a dumb ass . Thanks again
Very interesting thanks for the info looking forward to seeing more
Wow, Thanks for "discovering" this..... Wonder what the hell I was doing in the late sixties? I came late to it too.
Great video!
I’ve got three of the RCA 7025s that come out of a 68 Fender Bassman, I replaced them with JJs but I kept the original tubes for the sake of originality, definitely gonna try this!!!
RCA. The king of rock and roll tubes.
Thanks for sharing this! 808 Central Delaware
$20 MULLARD long plate, best tube ever
Doesn’t it seem like a waste to put a vintage tube in a small hybrid amp like this? I would try one of those cheap Chinese 12ax7b tubes if you want crazy gain. They’re cheap, they work well, and you aren’t wasting vintage on an amp like this. They come stock in a lot of Marshall’s for these reasons.
Should try a sovtek
I did try a Sovtek, I just didn't include it in the video, but the Sovtek performed about the same as the J/J ECC83S, maybe a touch better.
@@ExitThirteen Oh wow. Crazy how much these things color the sound
taking the valve out one-handed while the amp is turned on. :)
Tube Newbie here. For safety reasons…If I swap the tube while the amp is on is there anything I should Not be touching when the amp is on?
Long short: change the tube ...
Has anyone else had problems with “lower sound” while using your effects loop ? By the way, all I had hoked up was a delay and reverb pedal ..? Anyone know why the volume cuts so low ?
@@Junterhack what’s a buffer?
I take more gain any day, but this amp is pretty damn loud already with the stock tube. At least for my apartment.
@@aj81ds I decided to build one of those little black boxes myself. Parts cost less then $20. It's just a volume pot and two input jacks.
Changing your preamp tube will not boost the max volume, that is controlled by the SS output amplifier. The only difference will be, assuming that these rolls do boost your input gain, that you will get to the end of the SS amp with less master volume. More crunch is possible, but safe and musical overall volume boost is not.
@@aj81ds I bought the Bugera PS1 Attenuator. Goes in between the amp and cabinet. I tried the JHS. The Bugera works better. You have better control over the volume. $120.00, but worth it.
So the ecc803s has more gain then the stock tube?
In this case, yes, it did. Not sure why, since both the ECC83S and the ECC803S both sound exactly the same in my Fender Hot Rod DeVille 4x10 amp. Both tubes are new and check as new on my tube tester. By all rights and means, they should perform exactly the same in the Orange Micro Dark.... but they don't.
ExitThirteen I have a micro dark and have to been looking for preamp tubes to boost the gain and give it a tighter crispier tone I ended up purchasing the 803s after watching this video. But I may order a 83s just in case. Although I don’t see why it would be any different from this video since we have the same amp.
ExitThirteen cause I thought the stock tube was just a regular ecc83 not a ecc83s
@@misfitkid3926 The stock tube that comes with the amp is indeed an ECC83S, at least in my case. There won't be any real difference between the ECC83 and an ECC83S. Buying an ECC803S should give you a nice bump in gain. If you can find a vintage 12AX7, or 7025, that would be your best way to go, as the vintage tubes of those types produced the best results. Let me know how things work out for you!
ExitThirteen well my 803s came in and unfortunately it lessened the gain overall, less chug, less tightness
Nice bro Looks sick love the black atx style V on a 7
Little Dreamer by Vah Halen, please ?!?
Imma gonna strike a chord right quick like! YES! YES!
Keep them coming, very nice! Question, would the Tank Blitz be something for the rev dominant, slower speed crowd?
Wow, the Tank Blitz looks like a real game changer! Thanks for the review.
If you are drilling the 10 1/8" leverage drilling, you are correct. However, the drilling I am recommending is the traditional "label leverage" drilling, where you drill your holes right over the CG, with the pin approximately 3 3/8" from your track centerline at a 7:30-8 o'clock pin placement. Since you're putting your holes over the CG, you'll want something with a little higher top weight.
@@slotcarguy300 This ball would help blend that wet/dry pattern out pretty nicely. It also takes surface changes very well. Put your favorite "strong" layout on it, and let it roll.