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Hi, it most definitely needs a complete unbroken under tray installing after its completed. Without protection they will get damaged. The trays often get smashed to bits so we do need to make sure the heater is protected.

After 8 years of doing it as per the video we have not found it necessary.

Hi. You definitely need to install the return air duct as per my video. You just remove the cap and the ducting will hold the heater together. Use a jubilee clip to make sure it stays on but don’t over tighten it and distort the casing so it touches the fan. Im assuming the heater is Chinese as you have that type of cover so they do run very hot outlet temperature. An outlet in the step will quite possibly melt the door card with a Chinese heater. I would exit via the seat base if possible. I have another video showing a few possible outlet places.

Yes, correct, however I have installed hundreds of them this way and found no issues with the distance from the tank. It’s because the pump is actually below the level of fuel in the tank and the pipework goes uphill after the pump. I would actually be surprised if the distance from the pickup to pump is more than 1.5m so only 0.5m more than advised.

@@Heatersandfridges thanks

You get 1.8m as standard. We also have a 2.5m extension or an extra long 7m cable to purchase in our shop. 1.8m is enough for most applications. You can extend the cables with your own cable but make sure the cable is larger diameter than the original to avoid voltage drops.

No problem at all, its just how VW do it in the factory.

As shown i am removing power from the heater, on my test heater im just disconnecting the battery but it can be removal of fuse or disconnect power loom plug at the heater. Whatever is the most accessible. You might need two people of the control is a long way from a power connection.

My AutoTerm 4B (gasoline bunk heater) is brand new, professionally installed, but throws a variety codes every day. Is this typical for this kind of heater?

Why, can you explain your issues please as I'm looking at getting one of these.

@@charliegee777 unfortunately my issues remain - you go to use it and it comes up no connection in the display. So you wake up freezing and cannot switch the heater on. The distributor who initially reached out to help is proving just as unreliable as the installer. With my experience of Autoterm, I do not recommend unreliable product with a 3 year warranty that so far has proved to be non existent. The last contact from them was that it was my fault for not living in the same town as their location. A complete waste of £1000

Its all explained in the video. Cut the exhaust pipe with a grinder or hacksaw (grinder is easier). And the heat shield is not required on this installation if done correctly exactly as per the video. In any other installation install it anywhere the exhaust is likely to contact anything combustible. Although you need to try and ensure there is nowhere that it is in contact with combustible material.

@@Heatersandfridges Thank you! I have the external mounting box, do you know if it's better to have the connectors of the cables in the box with the heater (if they fit) or out of the box for easy access/ less heat? Also, does the fuel line get hot? Is it okay if it runs along side other cables? Do you know what the minimum distance should be between the ducting and exhaust pipe/mufler? Sorry for all the questions, the manual doesn't have any of this info

@@ShadowV connectors are better in the box if they will fit. Make sure the heater is mounted the correct way up (wires out at top if on its side). Fuel pipe does not get at all hot if installed away from exhaust as it should be. All the important points are mentioned in this video. No matter that its for a VW they are all essentially the same.

Yes it’s absolutely necessary. Its not in the manual because the heaters usually are mounted inside the vehicle. You do not want to suck exhaust fumes and moisture into the living space

@@Heatersandfridges Thanks for the info!

Well all I can say is I have seen rivnuts corrode and fall out and none of my tek screws have….

But as i state, you can use rivnuts if you wish.

I used 25mm more than suitable

Because it was made for self installers to do easily with tools they may already have. I mention in there that rivnuts can also be used. Its a matter of choice. Thanks for the comments.

Check for a water damaged circuit board in the heater especially if its a Volkswagen transporter underslung unit.

Yes absolutely, you don’t want to bring cold, moist air into the heater. You want to circulate the air inside the van to make it more efficient. Also if you bring the air from outside you risk sucking exhaust fumes into the vehicle and making your own portable gas chamber.

@@Heatersandfridges thanks for answer ..

Usually no, its only possible under the drivers seat because the adblue tank is under the passenger seat on a T6. (RHD) i have another video on how to install under drivers seat.

Thank you for replying Owen ,

If only i knew how! I would happily do that. I have not found how to change it.

@@Heatersandfridges in your list of videos, click the 3 dots on the right of your Comfort Controller video then click edit. Then change the "Yes, it's made for kids" to "No, it's not made for kids", then click Save 👍🏻

The measurement I gave is correct. Thank you.

I think you will find far more comments about chinese heaters not working than autoterm heaters not working. The comfort controller and the soon to be released PU-28 dont have the thermostat issues and the setpoint is adjutable to +1-1C controller making a whiny noise we only know of about 2 or three out of thousands and they have been swapped put under warranty. So honestly yes its worth the difference.

Also yes they all have altitude correction as standard and certification etc. way beyond all the ones you mention.

@@Heatersandfridges Thank you. See my Edit above. Just purchased one with the comfort controller.

@@ermanakbay great, you wont be disappointed

Yes indeed. Great to hear from you. I trust its still going strong? The controllers have moved on considerably since then. The new PU-28 is probably worth waiting for. Email me and we can sort it out for you. The old Pu-22 whilst very reliable is not a favourite for many people. Great to hear from you.

Only when they have made a mistake and not connecting the fuel pump back up. The air in the fuel system isn’t a problem on modern engines they in tank pump circulates it before the engine starts so its normally bled out by the time it starts.

its 127mm and its tight, you may need to file it out a little

Thanks for the quick response. What sealant do you recommend for sealing the turret plate install? Thanks. Great video by the way 👍🏻

@@simongibbs8816 I use intumescent silicone sealant from a DIY store like screwfix.

Yes, the reason is its not necessary in a road vehicle. Its just another place to leak and the fuel is clean and gets changed often.

Thanks Owen. Makes perfect sense to me 👍

Yes, untick ventilation mode.

@@Heatersandfridges Thank You! I have been searching for this very crucial information video after video, including the online PU-27 manual.

Thanks, Yes. It just plugs in the same.

@@Heatersandfridges excellent. I currently have the PU-27 But it doesn’t memorise the timers. So if I set one for ED 0700 it will work for the first 0700 but the following day wouldn’t start up.

@@BenHammond01 yes thats correct. So as long as you have a 12V air heater it will plug and play. You will have three totally separate timers that can all run consecutively and multiple days.