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I hope you got it resolved with cooling system fan override. It would save tons of money and down time.

Glad you saved yourself a visit with the thieves. That's why I do what I do, to help people like me, working to provide for their life while the politicians are too busy robbing us around the clock ;)

It works the same on all vehicles, just a matter of finding the wire. Might have same color wiring or different wire color, same pin

@@mechmobile2019 thanks for replying back so quick brother. Btw what wire should I look for behind the climate control switches? Any tips?

@@sunjanjua do you have an electric fan or air fan?

@@mechmobile2019 it is air, airline going from solenoid to fan hub.

@sunjanjua if you have an air line going to fan clutch, you have an air powered clutch. One way is to trace the wire from climate control, another way is to take that solenoid under your steering column, run two wires from inside the cab to it, cut one of those solenoid wires and splice each end of the cut wires to the two wires going to the AUX switch or any other I/O(on/off) switch I was busy and will look up to see if I can find the wiring diagram for your climate control so you drivers don't have to run wires through firewall

What year make and model? I can do some research for s specific vehicle. There is a way to trick the computer into kicking the fan into a "failsafe" mode and or running direct switch to a fan relay and at that point it will be 100% full capacity / engagement. This particular setup is for a volvo with an sir clutch

2012 Volvo Vnl 780 with D16 Thank you

@KarlJONES-nd2nt on electric cooling fan where the computer controls the fan speed the approach is going to be different and you will have to run a wire from engine bay. It is the simplest way without having to wire a potentiometer in line with the computer. I'll need you to do a few checks since I do not have access to exact setup of your truck with electric cooling fan. 1st - engine off, key out of ignition, try to spin fan by hand, moves or not? 2nd - on right side of engine (passenger side) find the engine cooling temp sensor. Two prong wire. It should be screwed into a place on block or coolant thermostat housing or coolantbline. ...unplug it. 3rd - key in, ignition on. You know you have found it when you turn key to ON position and fan kicks on full blast. Please report back your findings

⁠@@mechmobile2019I also have electro viscous fan , could you tell me what to do when disconnect those wires . Do I suppose to connect wires and switch directly to the sensor wires? Thank you in advance! My truck is 2018 Volvo vnl 780 d13

@krasimiratanasov5376 I don't have an electric fan so don't know just yet but will do research and update all in comments. Electric is controlled by VECU and would require a scanner to adjust parameters to engage cooling fan speed. To switch electric to pneumatic (air clutch) would also require find a work around the VECU.

All you would have to do to find the correct wire is get a multimeter, pull your climate control trontrol away from dash, test wires 1 by 1 or get a wiring diagram. The switches and touch panels are new, voltage current will never change and its always a matter of getting the right connector, prong, wire.... its like Legos for adults =)

​@@mechmobile2019 awesome thank you! Do you have the part # for the pin and stub wire?

I'm glad you got your truck on the road. Be safe driver.

@@JLOTRAN I don't want to publicize my number, find me on telegram @gotNOname101

I googled 2015 Volvo D13 ACM wiring diagram and it was off the actual volvo site I believe, one of the official volvo sites, it was free. One of the other viewers 40TONN, check his comment, I replied with a link to thr schematics, one of them

Searched Google for it, I can get you the info to site when I get a little time

Googled. 2015 volvo vnl 780 d13 acm wiring diagram and comes up with some pdfs and sites, this next link is for Volvo WIRING DIAGRAM INDEX - Volvo Trucks Academy www.volvotrainingsupport.com/-/media/vtna/files/shared/body-builder/wiring-diagrams/april-2017-p6605-modular-22622040_05_1.pdf

Yes, changing the harness is a task that's doable, but it's going to cost time and money taking everything out and disconnecting, then running a new one. Just in the time it would take to remove a wire harness, it would take to diagnose it and then find the corroded one and fix, minus $1000 bill for the wire harness. On other hand, diagnosis is the way to eliminate all the other sensors since they are tied in to same ACM.

You are right about diagnosing first, but if you look at those wires, how many of these were fixed and reattached!@@mechmobile2019

You are welcome, pass video on to help other men feed their families