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Nice job. Any chance you have links to these products ?

I have done this conversion on a custom Athearn BB AC4400 I built several years ago. I had to mill out the frame on mine to make the motor fit, but otherwise was a easy installation.

Very nice re-motor job. Cheers from eastern TN

How do you make the adapter board work with leds?

very good - this also opens up the oportunity for customised junction that don't follow the "set track" pieces, cross-overs with odd angles etc.

I design and build products for a living. I really like your presentation and think your build quality is surprisingly good ! However, my time is worth more than $15 per hour and this took you way more than 1 hr. If you are retired and have no money to buy multiple turn outs, your video is really helping them. Your music is very appropriate by the way. Not distracting or irritating. I think you are a talented guy. That’s why I have subscribed. 😊

So how in the world did you get those new A-Line female worm couplings onto the metal shaft after removing the originals? I am rebuilding an early 80's Athearn BB SD9 and I could not slip the new worm couplings onto the metal shaft without redrilling the hole. They were way too tight. Then I had to use epoxy to bond them to the metal shaft. Pain in the A$$!

You can also use the BB/RTR motor already in the model, and get one of the Athearn RTR clip on motherboards with the 21 pin socket, and get a 21 pin decoder and speakers if you got a sound decoder. The BB and RTR motors are pretty much on par with the Genesis motors as long as you ensure to grease up everything properly.

I need some help. I will be using the exact Athern retro motor, as shown in your video. Could you please share what each soldering point on the PCB goes to?

How do you just press the new ones on exactly ?

Hope you come back to RUclips with some new videos

Smart video - thanks for sharing

We need to see more of these videos on this channel

I subscribed as soon as you brought out the meat cleaver.

Very I informative! I’m not currently building a layout but I would love to jus tint enough space, I was just wondering how you would make your own turnout

I don't understand how the upper point hinges

14:12 wow I love the 90degree point to throw bar. Back when I used tiny screws and tapped the throw bar, with tiny flat brass.

Very clever method.

With the constant price increases on new sound or even dcc locomotives there may be a rush to buy the Athearn Genesis Motors to install on viewers fleet of older locomotives instead of purchasing the high $300(Ouch) or now over $400(Ouch Ouch) Canadian priced locomotives from hobby stores. I have a number of Athearn Blue Box locomotives and Dcc ready Kato's to retro fit. Thanks for making the video.

Great video, I like how you shut down the Snobs who always make those comments like Why didn't you buy this? Or do it this way? Sadly the Model train hobby has suffered what the Model hobby has dealt with and vice versa. Rivet counters are the worst and worse yet are the Ultra rich snobs who think the more you spend on a loco the better it is and that's just wrong lol. I have Athearn Blue box loco's that will out pull anything made today and that's a fact Jack! Wasn't even the motor either, the newer nickle silver nonsense wheels on loco's loose a ton of tractive effort over the older sintered wheel sets and that alone wins my claim. Even equally measured the new stuff is more geared for noise lovers over actual operation and $400 for a loco that pulls less for just some noises and a few easily added details doesn't justify the costs. DCC has great playability for multiple users at once but that's the only benefit of DCC, Sound just doesn't count because every system out there sounds just as phony as the last and there is no amount of money that help it out, it's just true. I have old Tyco's that will out pull modern noise making junk. Although to be honest that particular Tyco makes more noise than a 747 lol. Nickle silver means spin spin spin, Sintered metal means pull pull pull and are as easy to keep clean as the slippery nickle stuff. Nickle Silver on rolling stock is the best no lies, especially lighted cars.

RailPro is the easiest way to run dpi for model trains.

watched a third time.. this video is just that good...

Real model railroaders build their own turnouts. I build my own in N scale. i had trouble with some bulk PC board in that the copper cladding was too weak. I will try your supplier if he's still available. Thanks.

Genesis motor upgrades running backwards? I am in the process of converting my Blue Box Athearn F7s to the Genesis ATHG63842 motor. I put it in as others have with the black plastic part of the motor to the front, ran wires from the trucks with the right side being the positive and left the negative (former frame power). I checked and that is how it was connected with the old motors. Got it back together, put it on the track and it ran the opposite direction of all the original motored F7s. For comparison, I put a HO High performance motor ATH 84086 on a frame and the flywheels ran opposite of the Genesis motor. Am I missing something?

what dcc board did you use?

Where did you say you got the print out of the turnouts? I really want to try this. Thanks

Frankly I wish in HO trains longer than most to you were alive. We got along just fine with nice simple locomotive no sound effects no no DCCC no anyting. I have okay locomotives with sound effects and all that crap PS2 for control and I don't use none of it. Just don't see no use for it. When you got somebody locomotive sound effects running on the layout and gets to be a bunch of cacophonous noise.

That Red CP Rail diesel sounds incredible. The motor sounds so cool winding up. Turbocharged? How did you get it to sound like that?

This builds my confidence. Thank you!

Is the PC board. .060? I believe that's 60 thousands

Has anyone added a G2 motor to a Rail Power frame? I'm planning on using a B40-8 frame and Athearn Genesis motor and B + B trucks. Can I just add the retrofit kit to the frame? Or does it need to be isolated from the frame?

Exactly, my old locomotives have memories and some were gifts. I like the challenge of upgrading....

the roller barrens turning add great detail to that locomotive. do you know of kits that let you add that detail to older locomotives?

what were the replacement lights you used

this might be a dumb question but I'm new to this. do you intend on putting sleepers across the whole of the turn out? why or why not? thanks

Great video. Your son is so funny. What curve radius is your layout?

So does that make the engine a GP38-2M? hehehehe

Nice confihguration. Here in Brazil, the railways uses distribuited power, we call"leader" and "remote".

How did you do the rock face at 10:33? Did you press a big sheet of crumpled foil into wet plaster on the mountain? It does not look like there are a bunch of the molded rocks that seemed together like you showed earlier.

Have you ever reengined an Athearn F Unit??? Would it be basically the same???

Will it fit? ANYTHING will fit if you know how to engineer 101

I put that same motor in my childhood Atlas SD-35 along with Lok Sound decoder. Screw holes in bottom of motor were identical to old Atlas motor.

What neat this week

Hi I always wanted to learn this step of trains but always thought it was above my reach but you explained it well thanks. Have you ever attempted "Y" turn outs?

What is the track material used,I am new to the hobby

I'm for sure going to use these economical tricks

That was very informative. Thanks for the sharing the tune up info!

Very interesting. Thank you, Mr. KB02.

Skewed armature is ae nice design.

Hello will the ATHG63839 motor also fit the athearn blue box locomotives like the F45 or FP45?