- Видео 2
- Просмотров 163 915
robert deming
Добавлен 4 окт 2013
sewer line under concrete slab repair
The video details the repair of an existing sewer line under a concrete slab. The concrete is cut using an evolution concrete saw. The damaged pipe is repaired using Fernco connectors. Finally new concrete is installed.
Просмотров: 96 307
Видео
Redgard shower pan with linear drain.
Просмотров 68 тыс.5 лет назад
Construction of a shower pan and enclosure using Redgard. The pan is over concrete flooring with a linear drain installed.
Why these idiots build like this is ridiculous 😊
there is a lot of garbage on u tube on this subject. this is no exception
First of all I gotta say what a heck of a job you did- And man oh man you just gotta love the Fernco fittings of any kind. I know they made my plumbing days a whole lot easier. Hey, ive got a quick question... How did you find the exact location of the leak and pipe beside for knowing the layout? I used to pay $1000 bucks just to have a company called Sonar Bonar come out for 30 minutes put a sonar and listen for bubbles wich only half of the time indicated a reference of a leak and area. Man oh man! ??? 💪😎👍 You da man!
Horrible video. So not so what this guy is doing. You will have the worse shower ever. Stupid shit. Do you damn homework people. This should be a video on how exactly not to build a shower jeezzz
I'm not commenting on this to be mean or a jerk. I just want you to know that this type of shower pan build is not correct. You are using a weeping flange drain and all the principles and standards for the install of it have been over looked. That flange is designed to have a pre sloped base, a vinyl liner, and a sloped mud bed. Gravity and capillary action will force water to work its way toward the flange and down the weep holes. Mixing a liquid membrane with this type of flange is a sure recipe for a failure. Fortunately this is being done on a concrete slab, if it were on a second floor in a framed home you would see water damage very quickly. DYI'rs need to understand the principles of design that go into a shower pan. There are two systems for shower pans. Either a weeping flange like that one, with all the proper components that go along with it or, a bonded flange system, like a Schluter drain which is designed to have a membrane bonded to it, whether you use a mortar bed or foam. Don't mix both systems. Unfortunately, I tear out a bunch of shower failures that have been constructed like this. Water will work its way into the mortar bed and with all that liquid membrane on top it will sit and stagnate there. If it's on a second floor, it will work its way onto the wood subfloor and ceiling below.
Appreciate this! No nonsense, showing your work 👊👊
Nice but why didnt you put a clean out in while doing this?
It didn't pick up the dust because the hose had a double kink from the moment the saw was first turned on. @1:51
Could you have done the sleeve thing that they do now?
Only one problem.... the rest of the pipe is going to fail in the next few years. That was a difficult to apply band-aid.
What a project. Subscribed
No shower liner?
No need. That's what the redguard does.
Your suction hose was kinked, that’s why the dust. not rocket science. I saw a similar presentation on the Red Green show.
Can this method be done over plywood subfloor?
No!!! as a professional, with hundreds of showers constructed, I warn you not to replicate this, especially over a wood subfloor. All the drainage principles of a shower pan design have been violated here.
my concern is that the entire pipe is likely deteriorating, so in a year you are repairing another section.
Exactly what I know too!!! Best way to do it is run slightly thinner pipe to tunnel through the whole length or as I saw one guy do, a bigger pipe over it via a trenchless repair job!
Can you school me on why rebar is needed?
Great video, i would also add how you tested for leaks, and did you put any back fill under the pipe?
Well-done, very informational. THANK YOU! BTW, It's a "rotary hammer" not a hammer-drill. At least, that's the naming convention I'm used to in the United States. Hammer drills lack the impulse power as they have to move a massive chuck back and forth.
How did you know the exact point of the break?
I hired a local plumbing company to put a scope down the pipe. The plumbing company identified where the roots entered the pipe. The root intrusion location was marked using a surface device on the top side of the concrete . The cost was around $250.
Sad looking slab. Always cutting corners on the dirt work.
Great video!
All that work and you put ABS in??? Wow
how did you trace the pipe
The pipe was traced by a local plumbing company. It was a camera/locator head snake. The snake stopped at the root intrusion. A surface metal detector like device located the position of the snake/ root intrusion. The cost was about $300.
To much work use shluter pan
Ok i re-watch the video and I got it 👍 😅
And for the second mix you used mortero like in the first? I am asking just to make sure because I am building my own shower
So for the preslope you used mortar?
be nice if you put a link for the tool...or at least the name. good video though.
I would have taken the time to cover the walls with plastic and used a saw with a water connection. Thats the only way to keep the dust in check! If you are doing it your way you need to have a box fan on a couple of windows to extract the dust outdoors.
was that making your house smell like gas sewe?
I almost paid $5K for someone to do this because I had so many questions. Your video is exactly what I needed! I’ve been searching weeks for instruction on building a custom shower pan with a linear drain on a slab - and using red guard. I am very excited and feel more prepared now. Thank you!!!!!
Would i be possible to drill a hole and get a crowbar under one side of that concrete and just pry it up and save all the jackhammer work?
Always use the right tool for the job. Sure, you can use a hammer and chisel but it will take you forever and increases the chance of an injury. You save money doing it yourself so get the right tool is my philosophy.
That’s concrete slab has mastic acm which he’s cutting thru. Isn’t so good
Will the remaining pipe not break down in other places. Causing you to have to do this all again?
It can and will but that may be 11 years from now.
Exactly what I was thinking... Probably would have been better to clear and epoxy sleeve it?
Its 60 psi and make it click (3) t imes and use the proper tool SEEKONK TORQUE WRENCH ITS THE RED ONE..
All that work to remove old cast, just to install cast. SMDH. Why not install sch 40 instead? Would last forever! Hire a licensed plumber next time. Regards, a Licensed Plumber.
Did you apply Redgard to the final surface of the mud before tiling it??? (I saw you put Redgard on your preslope).
If he didn't, he forked up.
I found after installing the upper shower flange mount that a little bit of water will sit at the level of the lower flange.
Test for additional leaks before cementing the slab
This is my weekend...
Would have been better to do a reline rest is probably the same.
save you some money , use a skill saw with diamond blade
It’s not easy job but it’s doable! I going to try it and try to save me about 4K. Thanks for the video and keep up the good work!
Thanks, you definitely save money. Use the proper safety equipment. Good luck!
Where did you buy the pipe ?
One indication of a leaky pipe, will it make the carpet wet?
Sewer lines are not under pressure. If you have wet carpet you're in big trouble
@@robertdeming1802 So what do you mean? What could cause the problem, please educate me.
@@JWbabyshark a leaking water pipe in an adjacent wall or a leak of a water pipe under the slab and the water is seeping up through a crack in the slab.
Nice job ! Those ARC bands are great - expensive but really high quality. Only issue is that there is no center lip which similar to Fernco's - they can offset over time. I'll use a standard stainless no hub coupling on one side and just one ARC on the other. Our Code requires a metal plate underneath it to act as a brace.
Nice video, awesome recap at the end. Good job saving money and getting cool new tools
To remove accidental drain droppings use a shop vacuum
This is why these sorts of houses aren't built to last.
This is the major reason why I would prefer a raised foundation as opposed to a concrete foundation. Of course the raised foundation's a little bit more initial cost, the fear factor of a sewage leak, water leak or electrical/cable lines being possibly inaccessible due to being buried in or under concrete doesn't appeal to me. That's my opinion. Every habitable property I've owned has had a crawl space/raised foundation with the exception of a townhome that I owned for less than 2 years. I love the access. Water pipes, sewer pipes, electrical wiring, etc. no problem...🤔
I prefer a house with a basement. That way most the maintenance items are accessible from the basement. Unless you have a leak under the basement slab.