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It would be useful to know how straightforward or not it was to put the Honda engine into the Bantam frame...

RDs, LCs,X7 and a fizzy

The Kawasaki at the end sounded sweet

lots of really good bikes, reminds me of my old boyfriends bikes

Took you long enough lol only joking, in the end it was a easy fix

Top fix

My dads ford pop used to breakdown sometimes on hills and l thik it was fuel evaporation ,he put a metal plate by the manifold all those years ago

My dad had a black pop in 1966 ,we wen5 to Anglesy and Bournemouth in it in 1967 ,m6 dad fitted w radio and picked up Piraye radio ,l remember hewring the Beatles "All yoi meed is love ' over and over ,and Pink floyde ' See Enily play ' the smell of petrol ,m6 mums ciggerette smoke and flower children .Time machine ,love those cars ❤

My Dad had a Ford Popular. He was cranking it one day, and ut kicked back and broke his arm! He sold it and never drove again!

Condenser on the distributor breaks down when hot common fault on the families first car back in 1954 Ford 8 model Y drove it for years back and forth to RAF camp Tangmere 120 miles each way never let me down

How well I remember my Dads early Fords (E93A, E103E and 100E). All had vacuum tank powered windscreen wipers - hardly worked at all when the cars were struggling to climb hills, but went batshit crazy going down the other side!!!!

Terrible filming

Loving the shop, I could spend hours in there.

Bet your glad its fixed, its certainly been a journey

You've the patience of a saint my friend, glad to see she's running properly now. Good job it's quite flat where you live with the amount of pushing you've had to do!

Did you sell your baby

Bailey looked like he enjoyed his dive

Is it really fixed ? I do hope so.

This looks like an E93A. I think the 103E was the later Anglia with th3 cut back rear window.

My Dads first car was an E93A Ford Popular. The brakes failed and we hit a dustcart which then towed us down the road for a couple of miles because we could not disconnect ourselves.

I'll have to do something similar with my 38 Perfect.

Could be a sticking valve or sticking piston rings, i would not be too concerned about 10psi. With a 70 year car breakdowns are almost to be expected, all part of the fun. maybe consider electronic ignition, HIDE it out of sight! Good too see these old classics out and about instead of everyone driving 🥱 EVs 🥱

I am looking for a Hooter.Please.

When you showed a new condenser that you'd just fitted, we coud see the wire had bare copper showing, going into the crimp connector. It looked like it was very close to shorting to the bodywork. If it did, the sparks would stop immediately.

Check the valve clearances especially the exhaust valves they can close when the engine gets hot!

Well done! I wanted to find the sump drain nut in the dark oily depths. Your video showed where it is. Thank you!

Hi, at times your car sounds like it is running on three cylinders.

do you get any codes? just saying!!!

The compression is done with all the plugs removed and the throttle fully open.

oh man , talk about trial and error you've been through the mill with this car , well done for sticking with it to finding its problems , i had a petrol tractor once that had its fuel pipe too close to the exhaust it had same problem cutting out after five mins running, also could be ignition key barrel shorting out too had that before today , but hopefully you've fixed it now 👍

I had the same problem with a vintage Austin 7 with a vacuum wiper ' motor ' pipe that had cracked . Be very aware that many aftermarket condensers are of Chinese origin and basically ' c--p ' and destined to fail .I can recommend ones supplied by ' The Distributor Doctor ' who makes them to traditional quality standards that will last and worth the small extra cost.

Phew im glad, I thought you had that thing,addiction to breaking down,or AA syndrome 😊

Brilliant great news!

I certainly hope the car's gremlins are behind you now and you can enjoy driving it once more, which is what classic motoring is all about. Best of luck.

Don't worry about the compressions. The rule is that the lowest should be within 10% of the highest. It is - just. But that's good enough.

Hope its fixed?. I think a separate fuel supply like a petrol can bypass the main tank could be particles in that fuel line or broken pick up pipe in the tank. Also read the voltage by putting volt meter on battery when driving too. That would give charge voltage also have you done a battery test with a resistance load

Happy motoring🙂

Had one, air filter left off.

My dad had one in the early 60,s, same colour, that used to break down as well 🤣🤣🤣

Improve your video.

I see your fuel pipeline is copper and wrapped in foil , why would that be as the fuel could be evaporating in the heat, remove for a steel replacement might help, also start at the fuel source IE drain and clean the tank, then worry about the carb, also change the coil as they are cheap,

Had similar issue. It ended up in being broken hair spring in one of the one way valves in the inlet & outlet of the fuel pump

I do not if you cured the problem but I had problems with Anglia 100e. The problem was the diaphragm in the fuel pump was stretched.. You primed the carb. bowl fuel ran for awhile then it died the pump couldn't keep up. Temporary fix turn diaphragm over and reassemble.

Head gasket

Hi m8. Have you tried running a wire from rhe battery to the coil to eliminate ignition switch and wiring

Either a faulty condenser or cracked diaphragm in the fuel pump, can cause spurious stoppages. Please check both, hope this helps. WDP

Well Dave You tried the condenser swap and that was not the answer ! To eliminate fuel tank problems try rigging up an alternative fuel supply . Gallon petrol can on the floor a " clear" plastic pipe (so you can see any bubbles) to the lift pump , see what happens. It doesn't seem to run for long enough for vaporisation to be the issue , BUT If it's the Same Problem ,( electric pump 12 volt so you need a battery as well) and straight to the carb if that sorts it out then the problem is either vaporization or in the fuel tank .. Good Luck Don't Give up

Sorry to see/hear your problems. My parents bought a new Ford Popular in 1958/59 and though it was gutless, we did travel the 12 hour journey up to Aberdeen and back again without a muff, so there must be a correct set up that someone is aware of?. I'm surprised that yours is a 1954 Popular as I thought that, in 1954, they were Anglias and then rebadged as a Popular in the late 50s?. Have you found any of the Ford Pop car clubs any use in helping you? Best regards.

A s soon as it stops take the float bowl off. No petrol then take off fuel pomp and check. If petrol take float bowl home. On a clean surface undo the screws that holds the beak on. The beak injects fuel into the airflow. You will find a gasget and a maze of fuel chanel's and holes. I expect these are blocked. Ginit a good clean and reassemble. T here might be a new gasget in your kit. The coke is in fact an independent crude carb which delivers a rich mixture. When you close it main carb is not taking over. All the important bits of theZe ith are attached to the float bowl. I have fitted a Beetle cab and inch and a quarter SU too these engines. Downdraught SUs are rare.Use same needle as a Triumph Spitfire.

Hi As an 1172 owner myself I have had the same problem as you many times .. The solution that always seems to work is the replacement of the condenser which is a push fit in the body of the distributor just below the cap . When it starts to breakdown electrically It works fine for a few miles then either losses power and stops / and/or refuses to start when warm .. By the time you start to troubleshoot its cooled down enough to restart , and whole fiasco repeats..! So for a sure result just change the condenser first then coil followed by plug's & points .. You have a really good car there so its a shame not to be able to enjoy it .. The choke is a new one on me but I suggest you disconnect the wire and check that the with the knob pushed fully in that the butterfly valve is vertical and its fully closed when pulled out then tighten the wire clamp screws .. Good luck and keep up the good work !!