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You mean the choke? I’d have to open one up to remember, should be able to choke it manually and test start on muffs

She got a trophy at Crosslake boat show this year :D

2 strokes use the crank like a compressor, the air/fuel mixture comes right in the crank through the reed valves. On one side of the piston is the combustion chamber, where the piston is compressing the air/fuel mixture and capturing the energy released by the ignition of the fuel. On the other side of the piston is the crankcase, where the piston is creating a vacuum to suck in air/fuel from the carburetor through the reed valve and then pressurizing the crankcase so that air/fuel which is in the crank case is forced into the combustion chamber. The sides of the piston are acting like valves, covering and uncovering the intake and exhaust ports drilled into the side of the cylinder wall.

@@rumnboats7612 Thank You, That makes sense now, I saw the ports drilled into the cylinder walls. I appreciate the help, I could not find the answer anywhere on the net.

@@ryanjames5799 :) hit that sub button :D

yeah, 2 stroke merc stuff is pretty standard. not much changes till you get to heavy gross 4 strokes

And would this plug kit be the same for it or would I have to find a different one for the 120 ?

@@bretthaston8460 see that little package with the block off kit? call that number they'll hook u up

@@bretthaston8460 800 621 7761

negative

2.6 ounces of 2stroke oil per 1 gallon of gas if you've removed oil injection.

Take the end at the motor off the fuel line and squeeze the bulb until a siphon is started with the open fuel line in a gas can. The drop line in the fuel tank should be near the bottom after siphon is finished keep squeezing the bulb, then just add a little extra oil to first tank

That or pull the tank and clean it, depending on your skill level and time available

Prime the fuel system without it running, my guess is the bulb will get soft and not hold prime, and you will see fuel/oil coming out of the exhaust. This will be caused by a failed diaphragm in the fuel pump.

@@rumnboats7612 I’ll research what you told me

yup

Will the bushing stay in place without the shaft? maybe...perhaps some models it's more likely to not kick out. However there will be a bushing left inside your engine with nothing to keep it in place, and a cheap piece of plastic to keep it there seems alot safer than avoiding it.

They cannot, it's basically a flat bottom and though somewhat heavy for its size in any kind of rough water/wind it will beat the heck out of you and your gear and be blown around.

Thanks! Can't wait to get back after it, soon!

closed bow?

Not this year, sorry

ruclips.net/video/EibojD4pBi4/видео.html check out how I make the template

The valero will have to very obvious pieces of coring on each side, and one not so obvious in the pad. Start grinding and you'll find it. Hope you didn't pay much for the boat, there are hydrostreams with proof of restoration and hydrostreams that need full restoration.

@@mattnetko2282 thanks for taking the time and getting back. II see it now...just wondering how far down this road I want to go, throwing good money after bad. I feel bad for my son. I'm going to look for your video on the core. Did I pay too much, well I let my guard down as the we knew the same people...have a awesome day, cheers.

@@mattnetko2282 Hey Matt how tall should the stringers be going down the center of the hull?

@@michaelbellon632 it depends, on some of the pad hulls like a valero there were no stringers other than in the pad and the floor wasn't flat. Some had short stringers and a flat floor, you can make it up as you go realistically. It's a shame these boats don't hold alot of value, but a properly restored one is an absolute THRILL on the water and there's a market. For reference I've aquired several for free and if I pay for one it comes with a good trailer and a 6 cylinder outboard.

@@mattnetko2282 Hi Matt, yeah I know I have had my Vking for 25 years now, I had John Spath up here re-do the hull a few years back. I'm guessing this is were my son got the fever, and wanted to work on a Valero. Unfortunately he was taken advantage of and now our project has turned into something bigger than planned. You are right about the floor, not sure how to get around that yet. Any way, thanks for your help. We have the transom in and now the hull is partially stripped. If you don't mind I may be back for some more advice. Have an awesome day.

every time I take the cover off, I end up with more customer boats :( storage season coming all too soon. If I can't get after it a bit in the next week or 2 this winter will be about it.

The "experts" have a higher potential to create more work hah!

as you can see at 25:50 it's pumping strong and stayed strong during test, temp even on all 6

you didn't watch the video.

not very different, and if no issues run the injection

haha never had to go that far a pry and a mallet once unsticking the key is about as bad as it gets

so long as you only remove the wires described you're only removing the oil alarm

low compression below 90? because that means powerhead rebuild. The oil pump will be missing and the plastic cover in its place 11:23 oil pump. 14:29 plug installed.

@@rumnboats7612 he says it's the top cylinder on the starboard side. 40 PSI. It runs good. Have video

@@harrycash8713 40 psi likely means a scored cylinder it won't run out under load short of a rebuild

I dare you to find swirls in my work

not for sale just yet :D

Nothing shown in the video could effect timing. Start with compression test, then test spark on all 6, (sounds like you're running on 3 and aggresively progressed timing). Next check fueling issues, the fuel pump diaphragm is always bad if not replaced, lines, carbs etc. THEN and only then start messing with timing and don't forget about idle stabalizer which can usually just be removed especially if you're capable of timing an engine.

There's a chance you can just rip it and it's wiring out of there and win "don't remove other grounds", You could just replace the box they're under $100, some modules advance timing again above 5800 rpms, most of them only advance timing if idle rpm drops below 550. In order to remove it you will likely need to be able to adjust the timing on your engine. I can't really type out how to do it.

you can get one from ebay, amazon, Tim's outboard, any good merc dealer

the camera is the hardest part hah

Just buy the kit...it's under $20 As stated the shaft keeps a bushing in place, which can come out and destroy your engine. So if you pull the pump gear and shaft that spins the pump out of the crank case and then just put the pump back in just not attached the bushing inside is free to come loose and fly around your engine.

@@rumnboats7612 thank you very much I will try to buy the missing part because in Romania it is harder to find, especially for old engines... otherwise I will make it myself

an aluminum oil reservoir? never seen or heard of such a thing on an outboard. If you mean the fuel tank that's where the mixed fuel goes after you're done :D