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Absolutely not. I’ll have a video coming out soon as to why those are a money making scam.

@@BoostKingMatt Brother, I’m really interested in seeing the upcoming video then. I swear by oil catch cans. I ran one on my 2019 STX and now on my 2024 Powerboost XLT. The amount of oil that I kept off my valves is worth the like $150 I spent on them. Super cheap insurance.

@oatmealoutdoors8653 that tiny bit of oil over thousands of miles does not cause buildup on the intake valves. That buildup is caused by emissions and valve overlap. Plus, the buildup isn’t as bad on the port injected trucks.

KC’s are super nice. Some of us with newer trucks don’t have the liberty to have KCs though.

I used Unleashed Tuning and he dialed it in perfect.

An f150 Ecoboost with stage 4 turbos. 🤣

Some of these things that I said in the video have been said to me before in person. So I just had to have them in here. The first one about the 600hp Explorer sport, the guy told me that and I asked, does it have big turbos? And he said no, stock ones. I didn’t say anything but in my head I knew that was absolute crap.

That’ll be coming soon.

If you’re not trying to make big power, the best turbo is the stage 2 turbos from CRP. You can even run them on the stock tune without tuning them.

@@BoostKingMatt awesome thank 👍

But most people who get bigger turbos always want more power, so in that case I say stage 4.

@@BoostKingMatt yeah. I like the more power idea but found the rattle is from the turbos and it’s driving me crazy and I think it’s close to the time to upgrade for something that will not need a retune and blow up my motor. Thanks for the help. 🙏

@traxxasfan3674 then the stage 2 would be a great option, if you buy new ones it ain’t cheap, but they won’t rattle. I ran the stage 2 on the stock tune for a little and they did good. Stock tune is amazing the way it can harness the extra airflow of the upgraded turbos.

Mine broke at 650hp. But anywhere from 550+ is just a gamble. I’d say with that setup you could easily get 650 if you wanted. But if you’re careful on the tuning, you can dial it back to 550 or even 500. The 2018 2.7 is more capable due to the fact that it has the 10 speed transmission. Having the 10 speed keeps rpm’s up on each shift, putting less stress on the engine during shifting. I’d say you can run 500 wheel or more fairly safely with good tuning but depends how much you beat on it and what sort of life the engine has had. Also there’s always the freak accidents where stuff just goes boom at the drop of a pin.

I will try to get a video up. To be honest, there’s no update really. Turbos are doing well, but we have not pushed much power above what the stock turbos were doing.

@@BoostKingMattmaxed out fuel wise or just staying safe?

@@BlackTTf150 oh no no, staying safe. We’ve tried to turn them up and nothing has worked really. It’s some Gen 3 kinks he is working through. I may just leave it right now. It’s making around 480hp at the crank though, so it’s no slouch.

@BoostKingMatt that sucks to hear but staying safe is good. I'm turning mine up a little. The new turbos an headers are in now. Have to log and see where we're at

You’re welcome, and thank you as well!

Thank you sir! It’s the only paint I would use

2018, about 130,000

2018 is when they went dual GDI and PI so the port injectors are cleaning the backs of the intake valves.

@scott4172 Correct. My 2016 2.7 had very minimal buildup and I never ran a catch can on it. Those are overrated. Video coming on catch cans in the future.

The gear I threw is the gear that rides on the crankshaft snout and drives the oil pump. I also tested the actual oil pump gear that’s on the oil pump and it does not break either. This however is a much different design than the coyote motor though, so it’s not really an apple to apple comparison.

I don’t really think the loose wastegate arm is causing any issues. The flapper inside the turbo itself is under a lot of pressure when the turbos are in boost so I don’t think that can cause the problem. I’ve seen people replace turbos and still get the P0299 code. I would check your wastegate actuator lines to see if there’s leaks, also check that the actuator itself moves freely with a vacuum pump like I have in this video. You can also replace the wastegate solenoid, (not sure if that’s what you were talking about when you said turbo boost solenoid)

@@BoostKingMatt Good Morning! I am getting a crash-course in this same situation with my daughter's truck. I think that Jack may be referring to the Blow Off Valve; up front on the bottom-left corner of the cooler. We just replaced that on Sunday (didn't help). We will be putting in a new MAP sensor, and waste gate solenoid this afternoon. *not the way I wanted to learn about this turbo system* 🤔

@patrickcohan8902 sounds good. Hopefully that fixes the issues.

@@BoostKingMatt Welp! Found the culprit! So, since both parts were affordable (especially with my employee discount at O'Reilly's), we bought a MAP sensor and a waste gate actuator. My gut told me that the MAP sensor wouldn't be needed. But my daughter said to throw it in too. She's a really good mechanic; still learning though. With both parts in, the truck did not want to stay running! The Snap-On scanner is yelling about the MAP sensor, so I put the original one in. Cleared the codes and it fired up just fine ... Phew! Road test time ... Normal driving for several minutes, with a couple of light demands on the turbo; so far, so good! Then I get out on the highway; moderate demand on the turbo and that was good. Okay ... Time to act like I am passing someone! Ran like a champ! Thank you for such an awesome video/lesson! Once I figure out how, I will drop a few coins of the realm your way! 🙂🙂

@patrickcohan8902 that’s good to here! I am glad to be of help. Just to be sure, I’d check your truck’s battery, sometimes sensors can act up or codes can be caused by the battery having lower voltage than it should.

6.0 built motor, 8.5 second cage. Everything but the kitchen sink

On the 2.7? It may not be, if you’re changing every 3-5k like you should. But do it anyway because a new filter comes with new seals. It’s kind of a “why not” situation. Average cost? Hmmm, I’d charge 175-200$ if I was doing it. Oil isn’t cheap, it’s like 70$ for 6 quarts and a filter.

How is it running on the stock tune? By having it on the stock tune.

The 2021-2022 is tunable. I think the 23’ is not just yet.

Oh I did already. Waiting for my tuner to send me an updated tune

I think they have an upgrade now right?

@@BoostKingMattnot yet. New set costs 4.5K, which is more than I wanna spend

@@fullspeedfordbronco I see the stage 3 ones they have, but there’s no send in option, you could email him and ask if you send in a set of used turbos like I did if he can do the stage 3 upgrade for you.

Oh I will

Where did you see that?

@@BoostKingMatt cr web site

@@greggarrison3125 I don’t have a 2.7 anymore but when I did I was running e50 fuel and ground 22.5 psi of boost. Yielded about 650 hp and I blew it up

The wastegate can’t be replaced, ford doesn’t sell the actuator separately. It comes with the turbo. People always talk about the wastegate but that actually refers to the actual flapper inside the exhaust housing. The wastegate actuator is what moves the flapper itself.

I like Turbobay’s turbos but I like CRPs upgrades better. I like their compressor wheel design better and turbine design better.

@@BoostKingMattso when you had the turbobay v4’s on snowflake what was the most psi you’d recommend without blowing a hole through the side of the block and shattering the piston 😢 I know you were running E-50 at high elevation and fueling upgrades, but I am only doing 93 octane (stock pumps) and at sea level elevation.

@jimfinger4418 The boost is not necessarily what blew it up. It’s the combination of spark advance and fueling and boost which makes the boom in the cylinder haha. What made it blow was repeated abuse in the lower rpm’s where torque is at its max. Shifts, low rpm flooring it, etc is extremely hard on the engine, especially the rods. I ran 22.5 psi on the V4+ turbos and that yielded me around 650 crank hp with e50 fuel. If you don’t want to blow your engine, stay 500 crank hp or less. Otherwise you’re on borrowed time. On the 2018+ 2.7 the 10 speed will help the engine live a little longer due to less of an rpm drop during shifts. That lower rpm drop on shifts on the 6 speed is hard on the engine like I said.

I’m sure CRP will be getting those right along soon!

The slope indication isn’t always accurate. My red truck does easy 5.7 second passes 0-60 stock. My white truck did an 11.92 on flat ground.

@BoostKingMatt your correct, it isn't. I have made a pass at the same negative .84 location and it might say .40 or so. Thats because prior to the launch location, there is a significant hill behind me and it is getting confused on my exact location. But it is indeed still somewhat downhill about to flatten out at my launch location. My launch spot is based on safety, I put a house right behind me and can be shut down before the next group. But that dragy isn't that off, you know you are running significantly downhill. But fair enough, you are dealing with garbage air. Its probably a fairly accurate et utilizing downhill to make up for bad DA. But at that point, you can't use DA to suggest that you would be faster elsewhere. Elsewhere and flat, would be about the same.

@BoostKingMatt You ran a 12.14 at Bandimere and Bandimere is downhill. When standing at the starting line, you are alot higher than the roof of the building past the finish line. Man you never ran a 11.92 on flat ground...lol. No doubt you have the fastest gen 1 2.7 Supercrew there ever was and maybe ever will be, but slope was making up some of the differences in DA. It's easy to also post the slope but you don't. This time you did and its an eye opener.

Bandimere isn’t really downhill. It looks downhill in photos but it’s just the uphill part at the end that makes it look downhill. It has a slight downhill slope but barely. I ran 11.92 on the street on a very flat surface

Yep. My new turbos could flow more than stock turbos can at sea level, especially with the stage 4 8 blade turbine, but I won’t be going that crazy with them. I just want a nice boost curve under 17 psi and a nice easy 50-52 lb/min and we are good to go.

yes don’t let anyone fool you. the ecu always keeps track of key on start ups and it counts it. if you flash with a tune and a week later something goes wrong the ecu will say idk 45 start ups with 50k miles. not possible. they know its been flashed and will fight you tooth and nail and ask why you flashed the system. these engines are awesome and from experience with owning a 2011 3.5 and tuning it , i now have a 2020 2.7 and it remains stock and will remain stock. they are much smoother stock and already have great power. this mod game is kind of silly on these trucks in my opinion.

@anthonyhales4192 that’s your opinion as you said. People don’t watch my videos with that kind of mindset though. We are a community of modifiers and no one can convince us different.

@anthonyhales4192 also, some dealerships won’t fight you, and some won’t even check. My engine in my 2.7 needed cylinder heads replaced and ford didn’t give me a hard time about any of my mods. And also GooseTuned has taken his 700hp 3.5 raptor to get warranty work done with tuning stickers all over it and ford said nothing. It’s a hit or miss I agree, but it doesn’t mean you will be denied warranty service in all cases.

@@BoostKingMatt after going through all that bullshit with the mods/ warranties stock is the best option for any new buyer. If you want to race i think you should be buying an 11 to 18 truck that’s now out of warranty and you can do whatever it is you do to race it.

@@anthonyhales4192 ok. Maybe everyone doesn’t want to follow your thinking. I’m not saying I disagree, but my viewers to my videos are people who hate leaving things stock. You’re out of your zone being here amongst all of us mod guys. Stock is boring and everyone knows it. Some people are totally comfortable with stock and that’s fine.

At the time of this video I didn’t have turbo inlet tubes. But I have a more recent install video of CVF inlet tubes they gave me to test fit. The actual product isn’t out yet but will be soon. Right now K&N inlet tubes are the only ones available.

@@BoostKingMatt I’ll have to check out that video, as I have a 21’ 3.5 and would like those inlet tubes. I have the CVF Intercooler so I know their quality

@@troywhitton7658 Ah yes. If you go to my main page, you will find it, it’s the 3rd video after this video.

Hahaha that’s great!! Glad to be of help!

Thank you dude! Really appreciate it!

Not really, mainly because you can’t. The 2.7 turbos are the same except for the oil inlet hole from 2015-2020. Then 2021+ is much different. The 2021+ turbos would not work on a gen 1 truck. As far as the 3.5 goes, the gen 3 turbos fit on the gen 2 but not without custom kits and such and tuning. The other 3.5 gen’s are not swappable.

@@BoostKingMatt I believe the turbo actuator changed in 2018 from 2015 and went from mechanical to electrical however

@richardreynolds9985 not on the 2.7. The 2.7 has mechanical actuators from 2015 all the way to 2020. In 2021 the 2.7 now has electronic actuators. The 3.5L got electronic actuators in 2018, that’s probably what you’re thinking of.