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Hey! If it comes out dark and brown like a simple wash, the problem your having is mixing. There is a ball bearing at the bottom of every bottle and you'll need to put the pot on a vortex mixer for 30 seconds or scrape the ball bearing free with the back of your brush and hand shake for 2 minutes with the ball bearing rattling. You can see a demonstration of a bad unmixed and good mixed result on the hot-to video on our page or at www.goblinshut.com/how-to If you have any issues after this, Feel free to reach out and I'll replace your pot for free.

So glad someone close to you got it in stock! No shaking necessary! If you'd like to mix in pigment, acrylic, or inks, you're more than welcome to but I suggest stirring as no amount of shaking will help incorporate them.

Let us know how you're enjoying them!

You're right that it's not like any other product line of theirs! It's brand new. After extensively using UHU glue, UV resin, and other methods myself, I wanted something that was way more beginner friendly. Something usable right out of the pot, and something with a long work time so that when you are applying something to your model that will never come off, you aren't rushed. You'll find Gore and Snot hit the mark on every one of those, plus you can mix inks and acrylics in without harming the longevity or structural integrity of the product.

I hope you've had a great time with them!

Great question! I have plenty of experience with the UHU glue method and this product was developed with a lot of my frustrations with that in mind. You can use this right out of the pot without waiting and can paint on it after a few minutes. It is flexible during that period but will harden completely in a few hours. You can also mix in your preferred color to the snot without fear of effecting its integrity.

@@goblinshut Thank you so much for responding! This is amazing news, I'm even more excited to get my hands on these products, I'm sold!

I don't recommend it for 28mm infantry models as you'll need to get up close to get in all the nooks and crannies. And when you get in closer than 12 inches you risk staining your surface. For vehicles, it works great. As long as you can maintain your distance, you'll be good!

Should be around 2-5 minutes for it to dry, but as it is water soluble you can lighten it up, spread it or remove it at any time by just adding water

If you airbrush or rattle can, use 3 light dustings letting each layer fully cure in between and you'll be good to go!

youre not stirring the pot good enough, and it has to be stirred before every use, its gunks up at the bottom

The number one thing to make sure of when using Dirty Down is to mix it thoroughly. The greatest sign of an unmixed pot is a dark, sometimes glossy wash as a result. There is a LOT of goop in bottom of the pot. Use a vortex mixer for 30 seconds or scrape the bottom of the pot to free up the ball bearing then hand shake for 2 minutes for best results. Remove what you have already applied before applying a new layer as each subsequent layer will just darken. For an even brighter result, apply the dirty down then immediately dip your brush in your water pot and stipple on equal parts water to the wet dirty down. This will shift the color much brighter and give a more natural gradient to your verdigris

😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊​@@goblinshut

😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

If you use a q-tip, paper towel or cotton ball to dab water on it will only remove a little and leave a lighter shifted effect. It takes a little friction to remove entirely. If you'd like a wide range of color that flows through shades I suggest applying the dirty down then immediacy stippling in some water to the wet dirty down.

Nope! Just make sure all the goop in the bottom is mixed in. Scrape the bottom to free up the ball bearing then shake for 2 minutes or 30 seconds on the vortex mixer!

Hey! For those new to dirty down, it needs to be mixed more than any other paint you own! 30 seconds on a vortex or scrape the bottom of the pot with the back of your brush to free up the ball bearing, then shake for 2 mins. All the gunk needs to be incorporated for best results You can't apply good mixed over bad unmixed. Remove it first with a paper towel or q tip wet with water and you're good to go. I like to apply the dirty down then swirl in about equal parts water while its still wet for a wider range of color!

It comes in a Kill Team box set. Sector Sanctoris

You nailed! It's from Dark Imperium

Everything you thin it with will give a different result! Water will get it brighter to even an powdery white. alcohol will get it to about a halfway point

Good as well

This version is just the product and then adding a bit if water here and there while the product is still wet as per the directions on the website

You can absolutely handle this model after the dirty down has dried to paint other areas. You can dry brush or layer over it as well! After airbrushing varnish over the dirty down in thin layers, you're good to go with subsequent layers! I prefer Vallejo satin varnish thinned with an alcohol based thinner but many others in our discord have great advice on other options they've tried. Pictures of this statue varnished heavily are posted in our discord. If you're interested in the many way's I've continued to paint models where I used dirty down, please feel free to check out my Instagram @gobble_inz.

Absolutely! Dirty Down settles a LOT and if its not thoroughly mixed you'll get what looks like a dark green wash. Shake well after the ball bearing rattles and then scrape the bottom with a brush. Shake again and you're good to go. If you can scrape anything from the bottom, its not mixed enough. Once its mixed, water will push the greens into very bright green or even to white depending on your application.

@@Gobble_inz Really helpful, thanks mate :)

@@Gobble_inz The point about the ball bearing was super helpful. I wasnt hearing anything other than liquid when mixing. I scraped the bottom (freeing the bearing) and am getting a much better result

You can find instructions on dirtydown.co.uk on specific uses. In my personal experience testing varnishes it will protect it against something like rain or wet fingers but may not for the process of chipping

If it's dark and glossy it means you need to shake and stir until you can't scrape anything from the bottom. The stuff on the bottom there is the magic ingredient and will give you the best color gradient! If you mix like that every time you're good to go. It needs to be mixed much more than a GW paint

far as i could gather from the demonstration videos i've seen, the really pale patina is a result of wiping/blending the edges with damp kitchen towel or brush (just water). otherwise, the amount applied seems to have the biggest impact when it comes to creating seemingly separate effects/layers, and as mentioned in the above comment, the instructions say to shake it thoroughly and use it ideally in a warm environment. I haven't gotten my hands on these paints myself yet, but i just ordered the rust and moss ones, eager for them to arrive.

I would have thought it be ok if you had applied the rust, followed by a varnish as a protective barrier then the blood but I should say I haven’t tested these exact products in this way but couldn’t see why it wouldn’t work.

Hahah, I know how you felt because I'm positive I have all of the same... until this one :D It dries in 3 to 5 minutes if you're using it straight. You can see thin coats evaporate almost immediately. Once its dry its good to handle. It will always reactivate with water

​@@goblinshut so you need to seal it ?

@Finduses nope! It's perfectly fine for tabletop use. At our booth at Adeptifon I challenged people to abuse it, scrape it, etc and it stood strong. If you're walking your models through the rain, yes, you should take precautions. But for play, you're OK!

@@Gobble_inzor sweaty hands🤣

Man, every time xD

You can always use water to reactivate the rust. The longer it sits, the more likely staining will occur if you attempt to remove it entirely. Typical tabletop use will not remove the paint

3 to 5 mins but you'll see it drying almost instantly with a thin layer

Hey! If your surface is dark and glossy then you need to shake the pot and stir until you can't scrape anything form the bottom of the pot. That gunk is the magic ingredient! It takes a lot to mix it in the first time but needs a good shake beyond a gw pot shake every time

@@goblinshut I'm having the same issue - I shake and shake but just can't get the same result. It just dries like a deep green wash. I saw a note somewhere that you can "sprinkle with water to accentuate the effect" but haven't had much luck doing that either. Any other suggestions?

@@mbrad85 Hi Matt, without seeing pictures it's hard to say. Can you please email me at goblinshuthelp@gmail.com or ping me on instagram @gobble_inz. When applied to a flat surface you will get less of a result as the directions say. the base in the picture is very pitted and bumpy and I applied water while the dirty down was still drying. The other Moss video we have posted from @kbaylife_painting used the same method

​@@mbrad85 i had the same problem and i solved :D : Part of the substance has probably solidified at the bottom, to resolve this you need to use the handle of a spoon and mix vigorously. It has the consistency of peanut butter. Once done, close the package and shake

i had the same problem and i solved :D : Part of the substance has probably solidified at the bottom, to resolve this you need to use the handle of a spoon and mix vigorously. It has the consistency of peanut butter. Once done, close the package and shake

Just water and a paper towel!

@@goblinshut Thanks for the reply! does Sealing the paintjob with varnish damage the effect?

@@MadassSoerensen The manufacturer states it should be varnished before applying other paint. I have found most varnishes to reduce the effect, especially matte varnishes. The community on our discord has had the best luck with vallejo satin. I later varnished this statue with Vallejo Satin liberally and it help up well.

Primed in Vallejo black primer, wash with dirty down rust and you're good to go! Typically texture accentuates the look and water applied while the dirty down is still wet will result in brighter orange or even yellow gradients

@@goblinshut so you wouldn't recommend watering it down before application?

@@carminethewolf I often use a mix of 5 parts vallejo rust wash, 3 parts dirty down and 2 parts water which you can see on a lot of my daemons on Instragram @Gobble_inz I've never mixed just water with the rust before applying but DO NOT put water in the pot as it will ruin the paint.

@@goblinshut Are the metal edges in the last step a dry brush or are you removing the dirty down rust with another product / mineral spirits / water?

@@MonstroUK The last step is to dry brush vallejo metallic black. you can remove the dirty down with just water though! Would be cool to try what you describe!

Very glad you enjoy it and that's a great idea! I'll see what I can get together after Christmas. I've spent most of my time making short tutorials on Instagram @Gobble_inz lately but this stuff deserves an in depth look

Hey, thank you!! It's a paint that simulates the look of moss by drying in a gradient as it evaporates!

I've had luck with dry brushing and even streaking grime(Which darkened the look as you'd expect). Any watery paint will effect the look as being able to remove a portion of the effect with water and a cloth is a feature of the product. I haven't had the chance to test oils myself. You can see more applications @gobble_inz on Instagram. I'd love to hear more about what you have in mind!