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I picked up YUNO for PC98 when I was in Sapporo earlier this year. Saw it in the cabinet and I had to buy it. I've always wanted to own a PC98 but it seems like a huge time and money investment to get one up and running.

Great Stuff!

I have a PC-FXGA in a 9821 as well. My only wish is that it could use the PC's monitor instead of composite for better visual quality

Man, this chan nail was hard to gind

I know I'm 3 months late here but a lamp-limiter is the way to go, to reform those electrolytic smoothing capacitors. A variac doesn't actually limit the current as such. Start by "breaking" the valve chain (if it's a series string, just remove one). Then start with a low wattage bulb, (e.g. 40W), wait for it to dim, then gradually up the wattage and repeat. If you have a proper lamp-limiter setup like I made, can go up to e.g. 400W (2x200W bulbs in parallel). Then you could re-fit the extracted valve and flick the bypass switch. Obviously some critical caps need to be checked/replaced so as to protect the valves. As for use on 405-lines, expect better results than on 625. (Clean/check the system switch!).

I have a Pye 48 which is basically the same set with different trim/finish and the two controls are side-by-side. Also produces an excellent picture, especially on 405. That tuner can be configured for 625 VHF and also 405 UHF so with a 405-line VHS recording you can hook up straight to the aerial socket, without a standards convertor or custom modulator in the chain. I'm prepared to make one or two if you need them. Let me know what material you would like e.,g. test cards, etc.. (I'm new to your channel, don't know what you already have).

I think the gap in the trim is meant to be there, because I have an old 1970 G.E.C. monochrome TV, which is similar in design to your TV on the front and that has a gap.

The maker is Invcta, a sub brand of Pye, Stationmaster is the model name.

Hi, Thanks for making the video on this one. I’ve never heard of the Stationmaster brand - not a name owned or used by Pye as far as I know. It could have been used by a small rental company (most people rented their tellies at the time) or it might have been used by one of the home shopping catalogues which had various ‘house brands’ I agree with @triodehexode on replacement of any wax paper caps which are subject to high voltage, but would advise against wholesale replacement of capacitors. There is a risk you end up introducing faults by doing this. The main smoothing electrolytic looks to be in good condition and I think I can spot a few Mullard ‘Mustard’ capacitors in there (yellowish with rounded ends). These are usually very reliable. The plastic covering over the screen is indeed there to guard against implosion. Later models used twin-panel CRTs which did not require this. If you remove the CRT (I would advise against doing this) make sure you were eye protection as these things can go off like a grenade if struck in the wrong place. The implosion protection must be reinstalled with the CRT. Keep an eye on how warm the LOPT (flyback) gets - if the set has been unused for a long time moisture is likely to have formed within the windings and this will need to be driven out. Operating the set over time will help with this but turn it off if you find the LOPT gets hot to the touch Anyway good luck with the restoring it, the CRT looks to in excellent condition. Cheers Ian

Interesting USB options - I didn't think Windows 95 (or NT4) supported USB.

“Radiant Screen” was Mullard’s brand of re-gunned CRTs, so that TV has been serviced before.

Would change caps that have high voltage on them especialy those on control grids. Change the mains filter cap usually accross mains switch they go bang. Lovely Picture on that. In the mid 70s Watched the Prisoner on monochrome Bush dual standard 161 sharp as a pin but liniarity was out a bit which made the penny farling on the titles look a bit egg shaped. be seeing you!

The plastic gaurd on the front of the CRT is an implosion gaurd used before direct view Rimband tubes came out. Pye Ekco Feranti used same chassis Pye and Philips also had a tie in with radios in the 60s.

Not heard of this brand.

Gap in the beading @3:30 is supposed to be there, it just shouldn't be as pronounced. The beading is a straight piece that is bent to fit during manufacturing.

Whats the vaseline do? Ive got a huge samsung but its from the time they stopped putting all the knobs on the back, saved all the work of taking the back off. Been running nonstop for 7-8 years, brilliant sound.

Definitely any 'waxies' need to go. They are nearly always leaky, and in any case they can't be trusted. They can damage other components, especially if they are between the anode of the last stage and the grid of the next, since if they are leaky they will put a positive potential on the grid and turn the valve on hard, damaging the valve and perhaps other components too. Same with electrolytics - just can't be trusted when they are that old. The flat caps with small (picofarads) values are usually OK and often resistors are OK too. Sometimes you can 're-stuff' old caps, of course, especially if they are more visible. Thanks for sharing. I would love to see that working on 405 line!

The yellow gunk you wiped off of it meens the TV belonged to a smoker in the past.

My grandmother got one similar to this when I was 12 years old. I used to envy it because kids used to not have a TV in their own room back in day. My uncle bought it brand new for his mum.

As if by chance, your Sunday walk takes you past the radio and television shop, and your mistress wants to pull you along - she knows this trick, but then she gives in. After a lot of discussion, the moment comes when the new television is delivered. And yes, the children then had a lot to talk about at school.

Cheers for the video. I’ve been thinking about getting into collecting PCB’s but have very little technical knowledge or skill. Can I ask what sort of lifespan you can expect from a board from the 90/2000’s hearing a lot of horror stories such as it degrades each time you switch it on and off.

nice video! was cool to watch as someone whos only experience with the pc98 is with emulators

I didn’t think the British monarchy allowed their subjects to own TVs.

It was very cool and wonderful.Thank you for showing me!👍

Fantastic cool piece!!!

Hi. If you're not familiar with valves (tubes), electrically a valve is rather like an FET, with the cathode corresponding to the source, anode to the drain and control grid to the gate. The grid is usually biased a few volts negative with respect to the cathode, maybe just two or three volts. You want to avoid accidentally biasing the grid positive, which will switch the valve on hard and cause damage to the valve and other components. This can happen if the grid is fed via a capacitor from the anode of the previous stage (high voltage), and the capacitor has become leaky, These caps are often of the 'waxie' type (paper and foil encased in wax) in vintage equipment, and should be replaced as a matter of course, as they're nearly always bad. The great thing about valve circuits is that you can test a lot of components in circuit when the valves are not powered up.

Retro cool! Thanks! 🎻😎😎🙂😎

Servicing the Pye 11U article is in Television magazine May 1972. Availabe for free download here:- www.worldradiohistory.com/UK/Practical-Television/70s/Television-Servicing-UK-1972-05.pdf

Hopefully you have a service sheet/manual for it. I noticed you struggled with the UHF tuner. I'm not sure if it just needs lubricating, or if the dial cord needs restringing...it is all shown in the service sheet. We used to rent exactly the same model back in the 70's. Richard

Shango approved

You'll have no problem if you already can repair colour CRT sets. Lovely set and good luck with it.

That is a really nice Tv set. I wish I have one of those Tvs.

This come up on the home page. Old skool. 9 years before I was born. When I see the doors I thought, horrible, limit the viewing angle, then they slide open!. The other telly, thought to myself. 1981, So a few years out then. People crank old stuff up slowly through a variac or something, seen before or run the power through a light bulb, limits the power, never got that. Just tuning on is a no I think. Still a VHF telly antenna at a village not far away., Big H looking thing. Guess that a throwback to the good old days. Wooden case tv, had into the later 80's. First teletext think and 2 side, front facing speaker, big wide old telly, 1982. Remote control, as teletext would be :). Dad not buy cheap. Ferguson videostar VHS as well.

Is that Professor X before being stuck in a wheelchair ?

Nice work! I have the same model with this issue. And a second one with a different issue, every few minutes a small part of the screen kicks out to the right for what looks to be a single frame, then returns to normal. Any ideas on that one? Cheers

Promo_SM 👏

nice!

what does the switch for the keyboard look like?

Team Innocent

Wooow nice !!! Can I find this device somewhere ?

I've got a similar jvc and like you say the service manual says the hour counter goes up to 650, mine says 609, which means that number must be multiplied by 100. x1 wouldn't make sense and x10 wouldn't make sense. If it is x100 then mines done 60000 hours. Which definitely isn't true judging by the picture as it is bright and crisp (as yours looks to be) so were the tubes possibly replaced? Who knows.

Chip Chan Kick its awesome EXCLUSIVE for PC-FX

My first ever PC! My family used it until 2006. Any idea what the second purple power button is? Mine always just froze the machine and I had to restart it.

Is this still available for purchase?

Yes one!

Nice setup bro! U just got a sub!

More buttons can't play Street fighter on that

Where did you buy this and how much did it cost?

looks great i want one :D

Hi, They old stick are so strange and the screen is pretty good:)