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What kind of temp furnace do you use on a job site ?

@ I used whatever I had. 80K to 120K btu gas furnace and let it blow in center of the house. From the basement! It worked even better when I had the all the ductwork installed. I never liked drywall dust in the new furnace!

No. You have to a closed exhaust system. If the radon fan quit and you lost the negative pressure it is possible that radon could leak into the dryer vent and into the conditioned area of your home. Lint could also plug up the system.

@@RealPropertyShow Thanks.

You are welcome! I hope it helped

You are right about that. There is more pre planning than a typical subfloor with a rim joist. If you drop the floor trusses down so there are no steps into the home you have to have a dedicated chase to get mechanicals through to the walls on the first floor or you can put sleeves through the stem wall and drill out the top plate above them. Interior walls are also another path to get up the walls and into the floor trusses and walls above.

Try Ransom Brothers Lumber in Ramona, California.

I think this system with the SWD drain is faster to install because the filter fabric is already attached.

Benching the edges on deep trenches for safety is an excellent thing to do. I think the camera angle makes the trench look a lot deeper. The depth of the trench’s are 48” deep so we have good coverage on the waterline to keep it from freezing.

Yes indeed we did. Each tube of Zips liquid flash was $30 and the cold weather causing the tubes to stiffen up and break which ruined two tubes before we bought the caulking warmer. If has been a good ROI considering we are not throwing any tubes of sealant in the trash now and it is faster to work with the warm tubes.

@RealPropertyShow yeah I get the usefulness but the same effect comes from a $25 heating pad and a $30 lunchbox

It will work for all different types and sizes.

Perfect. Thank you for the info. That is how we have this project set up too.

It definitely would perform well in a wet climate or areas of high ground water. We wanted to make sure the conditioned crawlspace had zero chance of getting any moisture into the space. This home is in Middleton, Idaho. It is a drier climate however there are areas that have high ground water from either the rivers or water from farm irrigation.

I actually thought the same thing about J drains detail showing the SWD at the bottom of the wall and not at the side of the footing and that is why we added the SWD at the footing as well. I would rather take care of the water at the base of the footing before it challenges the cold joint at the bottom of the stem walls. I do believe just putting the SWD at the footing and not at the bottom of the wall would just fine. Using the SWD drain is much faster to install as the filter fabric is already attached to the drain and fits nicely again the sidewall of the footing.

These stairs will be getting 1” thick oak treads glued and fastened through the OSB tread into the LVL stringers.

Thank you. Yes we used Zip Liquid flash to caulk the joint on the bottom of the stem wall covering the bottom of the zip sheathing and the bottom 2 inches of the zip sheathing on the wall. We will show this soon in another video. Was Matt Risinger using that sound deadening caulking at the same joint?

I’m glad it helped! Good luck with your estimating career!

What do you build your stair treads out of? These stairs will get 1" thick solid oak treads glued and fastened down over the sub material.

You said OSB was used for the treads not 1 inch thick, solid oak.

When you say real stairs do you mean the finished treads and risers?

What's your opinion on using OSB for subfloor sheathing?

@ I’m a plywood guy all the way. As long as it doesn’t delaminate and cause a squeak, it’s fairly trouble free. I’m using plywood on the current remodel I’m doing and it’s been good. Plywood is designed for applications like flooring and it’s been around for decades.

Are you putting 1 1/8" sub material (plywood or OSB) and then an additional finished tread material over the top of that?

Yes plywood and OSB has formaldehyde in it. Most of the off gassing occurs when the glue is drying before it is installed on the jobsite. Indoor air quality is important. This home will have an ERV and Merv 13 filters to help with indoor air quality. I think it would be awesome to build a home 100% out of real wood and no glues or resins.

We are using Liquid Nails Subfloor & Deck. It is low VOC and Greenguard certified. It works in temperatures 22 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit and bonds to wet and frozen lumber. It is great for eliminating floor squeaks and the low VOC helps with indoor air quality. Here is a link to it www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-Nails-Subfloor-and-Deck-28-oz-Tan-Low-VOC-Construction-Adhesive-12-Pack-LNP-902-CP/202246452

Thank you! In this video we show how adding the J Drain 200 dimple mat and the SWD 6 drain to protect the system and eliminate the hydrostatic pressure so water does not have an opportunity to challenge the Tremco 250 GC waterproofing membrane. Here is a link to the video. ruclips.net/video/UUmiddzSz5I/видео.htmlsi=nPnroSrJLUA_d5Ch

Why do you prefer plywood over OSB?

@@RealPropertyShow Because OSB is sawdust glued together, not real wood.

How much room for the stair skirts do you like to see? Good call on the handrail backing. This home will be getting it as well. Thanks!

There is gap on both sides. Must have been the camera angle. The first 5 treads on the one side have a shorter wall.

What material would you use for the sub material for the stair treads and risers and why?

@@RealPropertyShow Whatever hardwood was being used on the floors. Using 1" or 1.5" material requires no other support. Last project was hickory.

Got it. How far apart are your stingers when you are using the 1" or 1 1/2" hickory? Are you glueing it to the stringers and what kind of fasteners are you using? We are planning on putting 1" oak treads over the OSB sub material you saw in the video which we will glue and fasten down with long enough fasteners to attach to the LVLs.

@@RealPropertyShow 15" which allows the treads to overhang a bit on the ends. Everything is glued. I should mention I am talking about a staircase that is open underneath.

Did they build the treads and risers out of 1 1/2" thick doug fir material? So they nailed through the outside stringers into the treads and risers instead of cutting the stringers?

@@RealPropertyShow Just regular lumber, but fulled sized stringers, the treads are also full sized and he risers are 8 inch I think, did not measure, but yes, they just nailed them (and used glue)

Here is link to the low VOC subfloor glue that was used to help eliminate squeaks. www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-Nails-Subfloor-and-Deck-28-oz-Tan-Low-VOC-Construction-Adhesive-12-Pack-LNP-902-CP/202246452#overlay We also used a 2" Simpson subfloor screws.

Do you prefer solid wood treads or plywood over the OSB.

We do not have a code for that in Canyon County Idaho where this build is. Minimum stair width is 36" here.

These stairs will be getting a 1" solid wood tread over the top that will be glued and fastened to the OSB treads and risers.

I think he meant the stringer is 18ft long. 17 risers probably means 16 treads. 14'8" would be a long run, the actual run is probably 13'4" or even less.

That would be a rough fall. The stringers are 18ft and the run is closer to 14 ft.

Yes you are right!

What are the best materials to build a set of stairs out of?

Do you think OSB subfloors will hold up over time. They are walked on as much as the stairs in the traffic areas.

You can use an exterior grade paint for galvanized steel like Rustoleum but the best way to do it is to get the bolts powder coated if they are galvanized or zinc plated. Simpson makes decorative bolts and nuts in there outdoor accent series that are already powdered coated black and this is the way to go. Here is a link to the product www.strongtie.com/products/go/connectors/outdooraccents

If you build stairs that will be getting carpeted we would add the nosing you are talking about in the sub material. This set of stairs will have 1” thick hardwood treads added that will have a nosing that overhangs the risers like you mentioned.

Thank you. Using four 14" LVL stringers make a big difference than using three 12" LVL stringers. There is zero bounce in the stairs. Stiff and solid.

I like it. Maybe a good name for a construction company too!

What materials do you build your stairs with?

Yes.. and apparently, according to commenters here, the treads are about to dissolve like sugar in a glass of water. 🙄🤣

@davidpetersen1 sloppy builders ripping clients off is what this is

@@Slingblade69ss meh.. you could drive a tank on those stairs.

Yes indeed. About $11 LF so $200 each for the stringers.

Thank you. Yes the stairs are solid and will be getting 1" solid oak treads glued and fastened over the OSB treads and risers. The fasteners will go into the LVLs.

Are you actually complaining it was built too good? You are the problem.

@danielhoward8354 I don't care if you gold plate stringers. I guess money matters to some but apparently not everyone.

I agree you’re the problem! You don’t have a nickel in it! So why do you care!

​@@danielhoward8354you sound like you don't understand: #1 Budgeting #2 What 14" x 18' LVLs cost #3 What an LVL is designed to do vs what it's being used for here #4 The inferiority of OSB #5 Where money could have been spent elsewhere.

@@BoldWittyName Was it your money?

Plywood is a good choice for stairs. I’ve used both OSB and plywood on our projects. What type of plywood would you use?

why is your house getting wet?

If the stairs have that much water running down them that the obs turns to dust,,( wt🙄water turning the OBS to dust).. then the house has far bigger problems than the material of the treads.

Yes sir I would agree with that!

We put a peel n stick roof underlayment with zero roof penetrations on this build. All vents are out the gable end walls. The outside walls have the Zip System with Zips rainscreen product to allow the building dry quickly. Water management on a building is the first priority. Then air sealing. If the OSB is getting wet inside then we failed with the building envelope.

@@fuzzy1dk There are tons of reasons why water gets into your house. Having fixed a LOT of water damaged houses, I can tell you it's not a question of if, but when. Saving a few bucks on cheaper materials is just dumb. You always plan for the worst. That's just smart.

Haha! The LVLs stringers cost about $800.

What materials do you use to build your stairs?