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I don't know. I guess you'll need for 6 times more Volume, at least 6 times more Power. I think you can reuse the Arduino and the software. But to satisfy the power consumption, you need another concept for the heating and switching.

Temperature controlling is a quite complex process and needs much evaluation time. To set a destionation humidity will not work, because can't ensure that the box will ever reach this humidity. So the box might run endless. For safety reasons i wouldn't do this. As you have seen, the software is quite complex and not written in a few days. The afford would be to much to refactor the software for this.

​@@werners_corner WOW, I didn't expect a such quick reply. Many thanks. I understand that you're spent a hundred hours to write this code and even my colleague, who is a programmer was impressed about your code and said that it was written by a PRO guy) Ok, lets forget about humidity control, but what about OLED display? Is there any chance to implement this upgrade?

@@colinmcrae007 I think you mean a graphical OLED display. At first step i thought about this. But i discard this becaus the Nano has a limit of 2K storage for variables. The current software consumes a bit about 1000 bytes for parameter variables. To use an OLED a additional buffer of 980 bytes is necessary. This would blow up the memory for variables. Second reason: the OLED also uses I2C. The graphical display would highly increase the traffic on the I2C, which will lead in timing issues for the temperature control. Someone has tried a 4x20 character LCD instead 2x16 and bumped into timing issues. It took to much time to transfer the data for the 4x20 over the I2C. I think for this, there would be a more powerfull controler than teh Nano necessary.

​@@werners_cornerOh, now I understand. What about ESP8266 NodeMCU or ESP32? Do they meet the requirements and can handle your project?

@@colinmcrae007 Regarding the specs, they should easy handle this. Might be they are even a bit oversized, but fine. I didn't used an ESP32 until now. But i guess the software will be totaly different and results in a new software. I think a Nano Every should also have enough memory. But the timing has to be evaluated and a refactoring at this point would be necessary.

The volume of your box is 12 times bigger then my box. So the amount of heaters and power would be at least 12 times higher.

@werners_corner if i get a more powerful heater?

@@PilavakisGiannis Shure you can try it. I guess you need at least 600W for heating.

Generally, this should work. Due to the lower resistance, a stronger power supply will be required. Try it out. I haven't tried a 100W PTC myself yet. The parameters for the control may need to be adjusted.

@@werners_corner Thanks will try it out

@@rsmgaming4384 Great. Let me know, if it works. Also if you need further help.

So ganz verstehe ich die Frage nicht. Wenn du die Box wie gezeigt bearbeitest, werden die Löcher an der Seite von den Druckteilen abgedeckt. Was da ggf. an Undichtigkeit übrig bleibt, kann man vernachlässigen. Spätestens nach ein paar Tagen komme ich mit frischem Silikat auf 10% und weniger. Ausser, dein Filament hat bereits soviel Feuchtigkeit gezogen, dass das Silikat die nicht mehr aufnehmen kann. Dann solltest du dir dein Silikat mal anschauen und ggf. nochmal austauschen. Bei ein oder zwei Rollen hatte ich auch schon einen ähnlichen Effekt bzw. waren die wohl bereits sehr feucht. Die habe ich dann erstmal ein paar Stunden in die beheizte Trockenbox gesteckt. Danach gingen die in der passiven Box auch auf 10% runter.

@@werners_corner vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort! Das was du beschreibst wäre auch meine Vermutung gewesen, aber selbst ohne Filament geht die Feuchtigkeit - nach 24h - nicht weiter runter... Aber danke, dann teste ich weiter rum...

@@FaWa-TV Das ist aber sehr merkwürdig. Das deutet eher darauf hin, dass der Fehler woanders liegt, wenn nicht mal Filament in der Box ist. Du kannst mich gerne auf printables oder über meine Kanal eMail (findest du in der Kanalbeschreibung, Button anklicken) zwecks Ursachforschung anschreiben. Das geht besser als hier über die Kommentarfunktion.

I bought this glue gun on amazon. But i paid less then the current price. www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0943BMJDD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@werners_corner Thanks

About 50 euros. Maybe a few Euros more.

Basically this should also work fine, as far as it can get hot enough. I think it wont fit into the housing. So you might have to design your own housing if necessary. But keep in mind, that the used PTC heater protect it self from overheating. So need to have an eye on this. Try it out. The MosFets can handle this as well.

@@werners_corner Thanks for advice. Maybe implement passive thermal protection?

@@Ocenazadania Not in any case. Ensure, that the DHT11 is always working. Since Version 0.48, the box stops heating/work if the sensor does not work. Try out and evaluate the heater. If you are using a 50/60 W power supply, as recommended, there should nothing bad happen. Kepp an eye on it and don't burn your house down :)

20-25% hatte ich genommen. Das hält!

@@werners_corner ok danke

@@michaelkollek8303 Gerne. Aber hast du eventuell zu dicke Schrauben genommen? Die Bohrungen sind für Spax 2,5 x 20 ausgelegt. Es soll ja keine "Schwerlast" an die Schranktür gehängt werden. Aber mit 20-25% Infill patzt da nichts. Ist mir zumindest noch nicht passiert. Und ich mittlerweile so einige Schranktüren ausgerüstet.

@@werners_corner nein alles gut , passt jetzt, echt nützlich

Das halte ich für Unsinn. Wenn die PTFE Kupplung richtig montiert ist und der Bowdenschlauch richtig sitzt, gibt es daneben keine Undichtigkeit. Zum Drucken muss das System dann ohnehin "geöffnet" werden.

I guess you have a mistake in your wiring. Check all conections, if they are properly done. I think you have overseen one ore more connection. Software uploaded to Arduino? Recommended steps: - Start with software versiion 0.48 - github.com/werner-rh/drybox-control/tree/v0.48 - disconnect fans and heater and focus on display and rotary encoder. Does the power up message and main menu appear after power up (without touching the encoder) ?

No nothing is coming on display just light you can check pictures on given link

@@xeondxb There is no link. You can send to me by mail (see chanel description for the addres). I gues you havn't connected the i2c bus correctly. Check the wiring. Software is uploaded to Arduino?

Please check your 3d website what link you shared in description I have post comments I can not find email description of this website

I can not share link in comments RUclips deleting it self

Did you check the linked files (see video description or first, pinned comment) on printables? There you find all you need. Including wiring diagramm. For flashing you only need Arduino Ide and an usb cable.

Got it thank you 🎉

Nein ich denke das wird damit nicht funktionieren. Isoliert habe ich meine Box zwar auch bereits, aber das dient eher dazu, die Zieltemperatur schneller zu erreichen und besser zu halten. Der verwendete PTC macht bei ca. gut 70 Grad zu. In der Box erreiche ich mit einem PTC max. 58C. Mein erstes PTC Gehäuse aus PLA+ hatte ich damit aber schon geschmolzen. PETG kann da mehr ab. Womit das zweite PTC Ghäuse hält. Aber auch das würde dann bei noch höherer Temperatur auch irgendwann weich werden. Ob die Ikea Box das auf Dauer ab kann (90-100), wär ich mir auch nicht so sicher. Da müsste schon einiges umdimensioniert werden. Vor allem muss man dann aufpassen, dass man sich nicht einen potenziellen Brandherd baut.

1. Install Arduino IDE 2. Download Code 3. Open code in IDe 4. Connect Arduino Nano with usb 5. In IDE select: Tools -> Boards -> Arduino AVR Boards -> Arduino Nano 6. In IDE select: Tools -> Ports -> the com port where Arduino appears 7. In IDE select: Tools -> Processor -> ATmega328p. If you have a china clone with ch340 select ATmega328p old bootloader 8. Compile and upload the code

Try to get this one: www.amazon.de/dp/B0CPP5KGJ4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

The sensor costs between 2-3€. See the partlist and links on printable.com!

@@werners_corner ok, so i clicked your amazon link and it showed 13 bucks, but thats for 6 pieces, so i guess its 2 dollars each, still i think all in all this is more than 10 dollars, i will remove my downvote, there will be no upvote ;(

@@lutfijd At recording time it was between 9,84 and 10,55 Euro. Are angry about 50Cent?

@@werners_corner lmao no, im just saying the whole setup is certainly more than 10 euros. thats all. the sensors on their own arent much, its just when you add it all together its more than 10 euros. lol thats it. ;)

1. Code (mit allen zug. Dateien) von Github laden 2. Arduino IDE installieren (falls noch nicht geschehen) 3. Ggf. Bibliothek installieren (aus der Arduino IDE) 4. Code in der IDE öffnen und schauen, ob er fehlerfrei übersetzt wird (sonst Fehler suchen) 5. Arduino per USB mit PC verbinden (vorher Treiber installieren. China-Boards: CH340) 6. Board auswählen. Z.B. Arduino Nano (ATMega328). Bei China-Nanos "alten Bootloader" auswählen. 7. Hochladen - fertig Ehrlich gesagt sprengt eine wirklich ausführliche Anleitung die Kommentarfunktion von YT. Bei Problemen, gerne auch auf printables Kontakt aufnehmen.

Thank you. But i think there is no need for a pcb for this project. The used prototyping pcb is just for for providing proper connectors to wireing everything. May be someone else is interested. So feel free to share a link here or on printables.

I wouldn't do this. Because this don't take much effect to the drying process. Additional you will need a very large box. Keep in mind, the ventilation is done every 4 minutes for 20 seconds or longer. During the hours of drying, you will need a lot of air. But feel free to try it out.

I didn't check your code. is the fan start time interval of 4mins and time duration of fan running is fixed to 20secs? or that 4mins on and 20secs running is dependent on the humidity reading and controlled by arduino?

@@sretamnandi9256 The interval time and running time of the fan is fixed. But can be adjusted in the code. Since version 0.48 all parameters are move to an own class module. So you all parameters adjustable at one place in the code. The first ventilation of 20s starts, when the box reached the destination temperature. After that, every 4 minutes for 20s. But only when the destination temperature is reached. When the temperature has droped and the 4 minutes are over, the box first will heat to destination temp and then starts the ventilation.

Okeey dude, thanks. I am thinking of a dry box , but I think I will go for STC3028. for the fan settings let's find a suitable hardware to set the timings.

Yes you can add an additional MosFet module. The module is specified up to 400W and 35A. But i wouldn' t trust this. Two modules should be find. Keep in mind, that you need much thicker cables for the MosFet. Also a power supply with 20A minimum.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel and read more about hydrostatic. de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trocknungsmittel Zusätzlich sich mal mit Hydrostatic auseinandersetzen. Das würde helfen den Vorgang zu verstehen. Wärme beschleunigt den Prozess lediglich.

Thank you! Yes for rewinding a bit, you have to open the lid for a short time. I saw a kind of auto rewinder. But this construction is quite complex and will not fit into the box. Other mechanical solution might get the box leaky. In general, I want to keep the box simple. But maybe there is a simple solution to find.

Suche auch noch die exakt gleichen Boxen. Hast Du einen Link? Danke :)

@@magicmoschi Der Link steht in der Videobeschreibung.

@@magicmoschi Sorry, Links sind beim ersten Video. www.amazon.de/dp/B0CBPVPDYR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Aktuell sind die Boxen dort aber nicht verfügbar.

The compiler seems to be a little bit "stupid" here. The types are the same. You can delete the modifier "volatile" in line 97 of DryBoxControl.ino to get off this warning. Or simple ignore it.

Of course safety first! 12V low voltage power supply (Short circuit proof) and the ptc heater can't be over heated. About 50€ for the material isn't that much. You can't buy a dryer with this features for the price. And if you are a littel bit familar with Arduino coding, you can add the features you like.

You are welcome! Yes, the code is not entirely trivial and took some time. But the device should also work professionally. If there are any problems, please feel free to ask

@@werners_corner Hi, I have now completed the build, I tested the box empty to start with and finally tried with 2 spools of filament. I am having a hard time understanding how the unit is supposed to work, and if I have built it to your specification. The Unit is set for 40 degrees and time 4 hours. Ambient temp 18 degrees. The unit takes 45+ minutes to get to 40 degrees, then the extract fan starts for the 20 seconds. At this point once the extract fan stops, my temperature starts to climb to about 41 degrees and then slowly falls to about 37 degrees, humidity dropping. It then starts to climb very slowly back up taking 20 minutes to do so. Is that how it should work? Second question... Extract fan. I can see that the trigger to the extract fan is the (in my case) 40 degree point, is it the case the next time it triggers is the next 40 degree point or is there another trigger (eg time or humidity?) I have tried to understand your code, but it is far beyond my limited coding skills. Third question... I did have to change the encoder pins DT and CLK, ( D6 and D7). I had completely finished my wiring before I realised, so I changed it within the code, is there any reason that you can see that it could be a problem? Thank you for designing this box and sharing it.

@@HigiStyx First to third question: it doesn't matter if you change the wires or simple change the pins (D6, D7) in the code. The result is the same. 45+ minutes to reach the destionation of 40 degrees seems to be a way to long. I checked this today morning. It took less then 10 minutes to reach 40 degrees. But my ambient temp is approx 22 degrees. I never tested it in such a "cool" environment. So it might be taken a littel bit longer. But not 45 minutes. Does your heater get enough power? How the box works: the ventilation starts the first time, when the destionation temp is reached. After this, the ventilation works every 4 minutes. But only if the destination temp is reach again in this time. A drop to 37 degrees seems to be ok in this ambient. My drop is about 38,6 degrees. You should check, if your heater is heating well. Does he get enough current from the power supply (at a littel bit more then 4A)? You can use the "Test" menu to drive the components manually. Enter the menu and chosse the value to set. HFan = fan for the heater, Heat = the heater self, AFan = ventilation fan. "Exit" stops all components. The temperature controll uses different ramps for different destionation temperatures. Try to set 41 degrees instead of 40. 41 will step to the next more powerfull ramp. You'll find the ramp table in function "void setHeatupRamp(....)" at line 643. You can change this values, if the test before solves your problem. Feel free to contact me by email (find it in the chanel description) or on printables for more support.

@@werners_corner Thank for your quick and informative reply. Your 10 minutes to 40 Degrees, was that an empty box? As my 45+ minutes is with two 18 degree ambient temperature spools of filament in the box. My first test with an empty box was considerably quicker. I have two spools in the dryer at the moment, from ambient temp 18C with the temp set to 41c instead of 40. To time it. ..UP DATE.. From 18C to 41c 2 spools of filament 51 minutes with the box wrapped in insulation on the top and sides. I had a quick check of the heater in the test menu, the heater with the heating fan on, it gets very hot. I am using a 12v 6 amp transformer brick that I had laying around my workshop for the dryer, however is a cheap Chinese one that I can't guarantee the output, It is getting very hot. I will buy a new quality one. The 12v cabling from the transformer to the mosfet bank is 1.5mm as that is what I had, so a bit over kill. I have not altered the code on line 643, at the moment. Do I enter values between the brackets on that line? or do I adjust values of the tables below line 643? hope fully it will be that cheap transformer. The ventilation now makes sense. thanks

@@werners_corner Hi again, Thanks for the info on how the code works I can now see how that bit works. Did you get your 10 minute time (22c to 40C) with and empty box? My 45+ minutes was with 2 spools of filament in the box. I will try this evening to dry another 2 spools of filament but using 41C instead, hopefully that should pull the time down. I am using a 12v 6A transformer brick, however it is a cheap Chinese one that I had laying around. I can’t guarantee it’s output and it gets very hot. I have ordered a new quality one today. My cables running to the mosfet bank is 1.5mm as that was the best sizing that I had to hand. I tried the test of the heater and heater fan this morning and it does get hot, I will have to look into that If the 41C and the new transformer doesn’t do it. You say I can change the values of line 643. Do I enter the values on that line in between the brackets? Or do I change the values within the table below?

Heated with silica gel? This will also work fine. But you have to change the silica from time to time. I have a bunch of filament rolls. So i prefer to use the small boxes (only with silica) for storage and printing. I use the heated box only for intensive drying.

These files are inside the DryBoxControl-v046.ZIP, which i accidentally uploaded. Now the zip is deleted and you find the files directly in the repository. You also need the NewliquidCrystal.ZIP. This file has to be add as extern library. See also hints on printables.com.

I don't know the dimension of the H4 and don't have one. I can try it. First have to look for differences.

The electronic circuit is quite simple from my view and many people are using this Fritzing diagrams. So i thought it would be the best way. Yes i forgot to mention the 10um cap in the video. Room for two spools was enough for me and i wanted the Ikea365 box because the box is easy to get in almost each country. To be honest, the heater solution was my second try. The first one fails with a bad result. The second works fine. For a bigger box you need an additional heater unit. The MosFets will be able to handle both. I know the DHT11 is not the best choice. But it is cheap and is completely sufficient for control. Decisive for the best result is the ventilation at intervals. Accurate temperature is not that importent. The DHT22 is indeed the better choice. However, it also costs three times as much as the DHT11. With the concept of this box it is possible to get the humidity below 10%. In the test i didn't reach this value due to the time limit of 1hour.

The DHT11 generally works fine. I am building 3 boxes to store and print out of. Amazon has 5 DHT11s for $8.99 and 3 DHT22s for $10.79. Those are the modules and not the just the sensors. So they cost twice as much but for myself worth it for the added monitoring/accuracy range. I'm also using 2 24v 30w polyimide heaters on an aluminum plate with a 40x20 fan. They blow more cfms and I can make it fit better in the ezystorage 18L box I'm using (HomeDepot in the US). I'm also using 2 intakes and exhausts on each box. These items I already had and the LM7805 will also work with the 24v supply. @@werners_corner

@@nickvee9468Sounds also interesting. Did you check out, if the two heater have enought power to heat up this big box? I am using 50W for a 10L box. Shure, the 7805 will work fine. I am not shure, if you realy need two intakes and exhausts. My small 40x10 fans are not driven at full power. There is still reserve left. However, the fun is to research and try out, which solution will work fine.

I planed on sticking aluminum reflective insulation inside the box which should keep the heat in and any condensation from forming between the box walls and insulation. As far as the ventilation. I'm not that thrilled about cutting a lot of holes in an air tight container so I'm still thinking about that aspect. I was looking at using a silicone disk/diaphragm type of valve. Like the valve used on vacuum bags. I think it's more air tight than the louvered design. The part I am going to have the most trouble with is sketching the arduino. I have forgotten/lost a lot in 15 years since I last worked with them and the "accidents" @@werners_corner

@@nickvee9468I also thought about an insulation inside the box. But for the i skiped this. My box isn't that big. Therefore it is not so necessary. I doubt, that the fan is able to open such kind of valves. That's reason, i designed and printed the in- and outtake with this flaps. I didn't plan to store the filament for longer time in this box. In this way, the box is not 100% air tight. To solve this problem for long time storage, i thought about a cap for covering the intake and outtake. The small remaining leak will no longer have a significant impact. Also you can add a little box with siicat gel while the box is powerd up.

Ein 3D Drucker braucht das nicht. Aber dem Filament tut es ganz gut, wenn es halbwegs trocken gehalten wird. Wer das nicht für sinnvoll hält, muss das ja nicht so machen.

Also ich hatte bislang keine Probleme derart. Die meisten anderen Nutzer wohl auch nicht. Wieso fängt man eigentlich einen größeren Druckjob mit einer fast leeren Rolle an? Und das 3 mal?

@@werners_corner hab diverse Teile in Serie gedruckt... dank der Box fällt es einfach nicht auf, spiegelt bei Beleuchtung einfach nur. Da ich mit mehreren Druckern neben und übereinander arbeite.

@@FutureOfHarderstylezNun, die Boxen erheben nicht den Anspruch, für jedes Setup geeignet zu sein. Für die meisten Durchschnitts Hobbydrucker gehen die aber gut. Vor allem, wenn man das Material nicht so schnell aufbraucht.

Jo alles gut. Ich verbrate insgesamt ca. 6?7?kg im Monat. Für gelegenheitsuser mag es passen :)

@@FutureOfHarderstylezNa da haben die Rollen kaum Zeit Feuchtigkeit zu ziehen :). Je nach Farbe, stehen die schon mitunter einige Monate bei mir rum.

Thank you

You're welcome. I don't want to exclude anyone. Almost everyone in the world understands English and it takes no effort to translate German into English.

No. This is a spcial cleaning liquid, containg 70% isopropanol, 30% distilled water. Most of the fluid is sucked off from the surface.

Yes of course what you prefer.

have you considered fitting a solar powered garden light on/in the top with a small bulb (not an led). when I used to work in shipping we used occasionality have a bird egg that was incubating come through they usually had a small bulb and a battery under the egg to keep it alive. it worth a though, as to whether a small bulb can keep a filament DH box warm enough to keep the humidity down i don't know. if your not getting a lot of sun or solar charging is not enough to keep the bulb lit you can always plug it in. i have seen posts where people use car headlight bulbs to de-solder surface mounted board components. People always try to over-engineer things with heaters that are computer controlled and other stuff. @@werners_corner

Not sure if you follow CNC Kitchen but he just posted this about Drying filament: "I Built a Solid-State Dehumidifier Filament Dry Box" Very expensive but great idea@@werners_corner

I don't, but i'll take a look.@@TheGathumpus

@@TheGathumpusI watched it. Interesting solution, but quit expensive and you always have to power it. For hobby printing it seems like shoot sparrows with cannons.

Die wird aber im Video gleich als erstes angegben.

Oh. Da hab ich wohl im falschen moment geblinzelt. Entschuldige. 7 scheint bei allen die magische Zahl zu sein. Dachre es könnte mit dieser Box knapp klappen da die kein "Griff" hat. Schade. Danke dir aber für die prompte Antwort!

Ja ok kann man leicht übersehen. Ich habe die Maße in die Videobeschreibung gesetzt. 8cm Rollenbreite sind schon heftig breit, aber es gibt sie. Das Problem ist, dass alle Boxen in dem Format und dem Volumen in den Maßen sehr ähnlich sind. Da ist leider bei etwa 7cm Schluß. Einzige Alternative aktuell wäre eine Doppelbox auf Basis einer Ikea365 10,4L Box. Eine Alternative Halterung, die etwas verstärkt genauso wie diese hier ist, zeige ich in meinem Video zu der beheizten Filamentbox bzw. Trockner. Das korrekte Maß für die Achse findest du dort auch. Das ganze Geraffel für die Heizung/Belüftung kann man natürlich weg lassen. Dann hat man die Doppelversion von dieser schmalen Box. Ich habs nur grob nachgemessen, aber da könnten geradeso 2 8cm Rollen nebeneinander reinpassen. ruclips.net/video/8RKNfMwvxNQ/видео.html @@StyleWarZ1

@@werners_corner Danke dir. Ja die Idee ist mir schon auch gekommen. Wör halt schon gut wenn es nur 1 Rolle wäre. Würde weniger Platz auf der Werkbank einnehmen. Ich geb noch nicht auf. Falls ich was finde, Poste ich es hier. Grüsse

Ja wenn du etwas findest, dann pinne ich das auch gerne ganz oben an.@@StyleWarZ1

Die waren schonmal weg und vor kurzem wieder da. Vielleicht ein bischen warten und ein Auge drauf haben. Die kommen wieder. Ne andere Halterung für das Hygro zu machen wäre kein Problem. Kommt darauf an, wo das dann sitzen soll.

​@@werners_corner, alle anderen Angebote haben leider eine sehr starke Einbuchtung auf einer Seite, die als "Griff" fungieren soll. Das macht sie leider für fast alle Filamentrollen ungeeignet, auch wenn man deine Halterung anpassen würde. Ich hoffe, deine Boxen sind bald wieder verfügbar, das ist eine super platzsparende Lösung für mein Mini-Office.

Alternativ hatte ich auch diese: www.amazon.de/dp/B09S6QBZPG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Allerdings sind die sehr milchig und nicht so schön transparent. Daher hatte ich die wieder zurückgegeben. Aktuell aber auch gerade weg.

​@@werners_corner danke dir.

@@werners_corner Ich hatte auch welche bestellt - alle hier genannten und auch vom Make Magazin/Heise sind nicht lieferbar. Die ich heute bekommen habe funktionieren nicht, da sie auf beiden Seiten eine Griffmulde haben. Damit klemmt die Rolle. Das haben "eure" hier gezeigten nicht. Scheinbar haben das "alle" die ich so bei amazon finde

Einfach ein bischen warten. Die kommen wieder rein. Ich hatte kürzlich gerade wieder welche bestellt. Die meisten Alternativen haben leider eine Verengung auf einer Seite, weil es besser zu greifen sein soll oder sind nicht richtig klar transparent. So wie diese hier:www.amazon.de/dp/B09S6QBZPG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details