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@mikaliias3603 The stainless was around Au$1,300

@mohammedshariff2169 im in Australia, pretty much any bearing supplier will be able to supply these parts. I used BSC industrial supplies. They always have a good stock of parts.

Two steering wheels and a lot of holes. The holes must match up for the stitching to look neat

I'm about to create another video on the alternator connections. I now have a Hitachi alternator, which is used on many Yanmar engines.

It lasted another 3 years before the gearbox 💩 the bed. Probably recommend cv joint grease if it can't hold oil

When you have three additional pins, sometimes they are labeled: S for Sens (12 volt Battery voltage measurement), L for Lamp - The indicator lamp that is connected to the ignition that starts the alternator. and I for ignition - possibly powers an internal regulator. Get the model of the alternator and see what you can find.

This applies to all alternators, I only had a Bosch alternator available for this demonstration. The fundamental difference between this and a modern application is that the manufacturer will usually put a resistor across the light globe in the instrument panel, so that is the light fails, the alternator will still charge. All alternators need a tiny bit of power to begin charging. I made this video in response to a question where someone had replaced an alternator on their boat that wasn't charging, with a new alternator, and it wasn't charging either. The point I was trying to make was the importance of the circuit that excites the alternator, and spinning an alternator will not automatically generate electricity. I have seen this issue numerous times on cars as well. When I get hold of a few more alternators of different brands, I will make a more extensive video.

Bought it from www.geordi.com.au/index0.html they do a lot of industrial stainless. The high polished tube had to be ordered in.

It's without a doubt, the best so far. It was nice to see the moorings provided by the Queensland government were set up so as to not damage the coral.

I replaced this windlass about 4 years later with another quick unit of the same size. The damage to the gears shortened the life. The new units gearbox is made of plastic. It bolted into the same holes which was important to me.

@alansailing1387 Appececiate your feedback. Yes, dropping in the same bolt holes would be a big advantage. That is why I bought a second Lewmar ProFish (a few years back), but I am a little reluctant to buy a third :). The first one failed due to an electric motor burnout. The second one failed because the system couldn't cope with a twisted chain and bent everything out of shape.

A waxed thread used to sew leather. Not sure what it was made of.

This: www.leffler.com.au/10mm-waxed-braided-poly-thread-100g-spool-grey/

Where are you located?

Thanks

Unfortunately we are on the boat, all that info is at home.

@@alansailing1387If you could send info when you are back it would be a fantastic help. Ill delay my restoration until then. Im in Greece and parts are not always easy to get by and once I open up the unit I cannot move anywhere. Thanks. Mads

Hi Alan, great video! It gave me some hope of saving my windlass. I have the same issue as Mads and I'm having a hard time finding spares. The kits offered by different vendors are not complete. I'd also need a new seal for the motor since the gear oil managed to find its way into the motor. Maybe because the oil was diluted with water and got less viscous. I don't know... Anyways, I'd appreciate if you could point me in the right direction when it comes to spares. Cheers, Nic

@@nortan100 The one on the input shaft on the gearbox is a 47x25x7 but a 47x25x8 will fit as well.

@nortan100 I bought all the spares from a bearing supply shop. The bearings and seals used in this windlass are generic parts. Just try and avoid bearings made in China. I try to use bearings made in Japan or Germany.

That windlass lasted another 4 years then it stripped the gears. I ended up buying a whole new windlass as the boat was a charter boat and it was pretty knackered.

That is one I have in mind for the future. I only have one starter and it is pretty well stuffed.

12.9 is pretty close to the alternator not putting out anything at all. Check my previous video on getting an alternator to charge. Is this one you are have problems with an internal or external regulator?

@@alansailing1387 Sorry, I rechecked and the output after cleaning battery terminals with engine running is 13.8. Still low I believe as I thought good output was between 14.2 and like 14.8 or somewhere close to that? This has an internal regulator. (1998 dodge B1500 van) Thanks for your reply.

There is a seal just below the gypsy and a bearing below that. The gearbox has two bearings with a seal on the outside of each bearing.

The rebuild only lasted 3 years then the gears stripped on a particularly deep anchorage where we had all the chain out.

Glad you enjoyed it. There are better videos on how to do the cross stitch on yt

That was not Lake eyre, this particular lake was less than 1 metre

Previous metal fab experience was building a trailer and patching up rust on cars using a mig welder. I have never worked with stainless before. The welder is a lotos 200 tig welder I bought off fb market place for $400. The pipe bender was off ebay for $130. Plasma cutter from Aldi for $299, angle grinder for cutting and polishing. 3m scotch brite pads for cleaning up the stainless.

@@alansailing1387 Thanks I was quoted 30k from the one local fabricator. I think I may just gather the materials and take two weeks off work and give it a go

@@SailingCAVU the materials I used for the straight sections and the bends were 50mm hand rail, a lot of time was spent shaping the pieces so they fitted together with less than 1mm gap, I tried my skills at tig welding but I wasn’t good enough so I enlisted my friend who could weld. Materials were around $1500.

Not sure I could repeat this.

What type of leather? Where did you purchase?

We also have the option of putting the dinghy on the deck or deflating it and stowing it below if the weather is bad.

We have covered the first 1000nm with the arch, we have had the dinghy on the solar arch for half that time. We pull the dinghy up level with the seats and tie it to the railing to stop it from swinging. No problems so far.

I am thinking of a hard dodger, I haven't seen one on a Beneteau. Still looking for ideas and in particular, how to anchor it to the deck as I am not a fan of fibreglasing it to the deck.

Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it

Good thanks

Thanks!

+Drone Girl Thanks, glad you enjoyed it