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@@mark_da_it_guy I’m not in the US, I thought this was the standard size for a switch in the US? They do a single switch version, and even a triple switch so perhaps those variants make more sense in most cases?

@ there are back boxes available that can house this unit but they are far from widely installed in the houses. If you think of a Lutron Pico remote that will give you an idea of the height and width dimensions most people will be looking for. Adding two or three or more makes it even worse…. Think of the wiring requirements for that many circuits. The for factor of the Sonoff is designed to replace a single switch. If you have multiple circuits you typically “gang” the switch’s and boxes. Ie they are next to each other in a way that a single faceplate can cover them. This device is not Gangable and will not work in a multi gang setup which really limits who can use it. Just a thought.

Glad it helped! And yeah I really should give that a go, but I’ve not taken the time yet as my Dad and I have been designing our own, which is on sale on Amazon now 😉

Thanks, should check out the “fireplace” shelf I build using WLED, and the “equalisers” below my HomePods 😉

@@vs07 yeah one of the most common uses, sadly I don’t have a garage… But I may know someone who’d like to use it for that very reason 🤔

Oh dear, my Home Assistant found my Apple TVs and HomePods so I don't even particularly remember adding them. But one thing I would check is that the HomePod is set to allow anyone to listen, that might help it show up. Then go to Settings > Devices > Integrations (from the Home Assistant app on an iOS device) and search for "Thread", add it, then go into it and press configure, and then press Send Credentials To Home Assistant. Once that's all done, you can do Add Integration again and search for "HomeKit Device" and a device.

@@HomeIsWhereTheSmartIs First: Thanks for your reply, really appreciate! To my issue: It's not, that my HA doesn't find my HomePods. I can control the music playing on it and with the Thread integration I get them listed as Thread Routers. I also checked to allow anyone to listen & deactivated the passwords on the homepods to get them into HA in the first place. But even after deleting the thread/matter-Item (nanoleaf essential) from HomeKit (and not Nanoleaf App), as some ppl on the net tell, it doesnt show up in the Integration "HomeKit Device". And since I just found out that Athom now belongs to LG for their third party integration, I don't want to get one of those either, bc I think they'll kill homey, once they integrated those features in their ThinQ-Plattform. Fuck it, I'll go back to mechanical switches and stand up at night to turn on light like a cave man...

@@Mesothoraxah I was literally trying to pair a Nanoleaf bulb the other day (after accidentally deleting the wrong one) and it’s a PAIN. You have to power toggle them at it the right timing (which doesn’t seem at all like what they state). Also, does your Home Assistant server have working Bluetooth?

@ two of mine stopped working after I accidentally shut off the line they live in. Hat to delete and pair both again in HomeKit. My hue lights are fine with that. I don’t think it has working Bluetooth. It’s an old Dell client I picked up from work running unraid with HA in docker. That’s why I want to get my HomePods running as border router.

@@Mesothoraxoook that could be your issue, Thread devices are added as Bluetooth initially. When adding to Apple Home it auto provisions them onto the Thread network, in HA you go into the devices ones it’s added and hit the Provision Thread button.

@@gedgicat2063 I don’t believe that’s a feature in software, but you can simply leave the load un-wired and use it for automations but the relay will still click on/off

@@vegaswayne247 Ah thanks for the clarification 👍

@@garyr1522 thanks for the kind words

It doesn’t “upload to the app” per se. But it stores the footage on its internal memory card (or optional cloud storage) and you can then view it on that screen I showed.

@@pIotney yeah it’s pretty sensitive, I’ve popped it on the outside of the door in the end to put it next to the knocker so they practically have to avoid hitting the sensor itself, just to be sure. And yes I do now typically get a doorbell sound inside when they put post through the letterbox.

Damn I hear you (or not as the case may be). I’m not quite classed as deaf at all but my hearing is bad and I can’t hear the door knock around most of my home so depend on similar automations to know when there’s been a knock. If you check out my previous video or 2 you’ll see how I managed to add a pretty reliably knock detection automation too using a vibration sensor 😊

@@BDawg-d8k lol yeah great idea, and great point 👍

@@ro63rto I’ve heard they’re obnoxiously loud. But it’s funny how quickly I’ve found people to change their tune about being filmed when they become victim of a crime and want a doorbell owners footage.

@@danieljerloew yeah you either need an Aqara hub (E1 is a good cheap option), or you can pair directly to Home Assistant with a Zigbee dongle

@@garethjones5068 thank you so much, hope you have a happy new year!

@@CaptainToadUK damn that’s annoying! Good job you’ve got the dog 😂 It’s SO varied, I make sure to give good feedback to the good ones. I had a guy deliver to me in the midst of massive flooding in my area a few weeks ago which shocked me, and a guy jump my Dads driveway gate to ensure they delivered his parcel once. So it’s not all bad, but sadly not often that good…

@@IanPowell1985 yeah I’m not surprised, keep an eye out for my next video if you hate them that much, because I’m starting to hate them too!

@@jnotravels that’s mad, but makes sense. I actually want people to press my doorbell because I often have a sleeping baby, and I’ve configured the chimes not to play anywhere near their bedroom (but the front door is right below their room so can be heard unavoidably). And again unavoidably by road gets a lot of foot traffic so simply notifying me whenever a person was detected would drive me mad.

I'm hard of heaing and this is exactly why I bought a Ring!

@bob521i I have found the best way to make sure you get the bell to ring is put a comment in the delivery notes and make a sign by your front door the says please ring the ring doorbell when delivering otherwise I most likely just drop at the door and move on I have hundreds of other doors I have to hit each day.

Knocking is way worse than a doorbell ringing.

@@bob521i I’ll have a follow up video about this soon, but Ring are AWFUL for a host of reasons. I highly recommend a wired option like the Reolink PoE doorbell I’m using. It gets its power and network connection from a single cable so it’s rock solid reliable, and no subscription is required for all of the important features.

@@timward2001 very interesting, I’ve heard roughly this story from others a lot in the comments on TikTok too. So this may warrant a follow up video. Ring doorbells are awful for a lot of reasons (security, reliability etc) so I don’t understand why people are still buying them when better options are available. Mine is PoE wired for power and network, so it just works. Rings on every speaker in my home, and notifies my watch (even if the internet is down when I’m home)

Yeah, it can be really frustrating when people have gates around their house and none of their doorbells work. MY goal is to drop the package as fast as possible and keep moving.

@@jnotravels understandable, it’s your job. I find it SO annoying when something doesn’t work. I can’t bear leaving a broken doorbell ok the front of my house, which is why I’ve tried at least 5 now and settled on this wired one. And when WiFi ones broke in the past I remove them right away to avoid missing parcels etc. At least put up a sign if you know it’s broken!

@@Call_Me_David very interesting, I’ve heard roughly this issue a lot in the TikTok comments, so it may warrant a follow up video. Ring doorbells are awful for a lot of reasons (security, reliability etc) so I really don’t understand why people are still buying them when there are much better options available. Mine is PoE wired for power and network, so it just works. Rings on every speaker in my home, and notifies my watch (even if the internet is down when I’m home)

Nah, Aqara Zigbee connected directed to Home Assistant

Yes (I really should link that on my site) you can currently get it from the GitHub project my Dad made at led.revk.uk

Yeah potentially, has much changed in the latest updates? I thought it just added the ability to have more than one condition on a single IF.

I'll try and explain as best I can (maybe I'll make a new video explaining it better soon). But the issue with Apple Home automation timeouts is that they don't do what you would expect. They trigger when motion begins, and timeout after the specified time of the initial motion. NOT the specified time of "no motion". So in order to do this, you need to create a Shortcut automation which does the check itself. The Repeat loop described in the video, essentially starts when there's no motion, and checks for motion every few seconds, for a set number of cycles. If it detects motion at some point, it breaks out until there's no motion again. If it gets through the set number of cycles without detecting motion, then it turns off the lights at the end. Hope this makes some more sense.

@@zemismartofficial I certainly would, contact me via the options on my website and we’ll discuss it :)

@@mattc1854 😂 I knew the algorithm would bring you here!

@@stuthhamster just a USB-C charger

@@andylitchfield yeah I hear you, wish they put that little bit more effort into ironing out these pain points, would make a HUGE difference!

@@nicedez not sure on android, but it’s called Meta View on iOS currently