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Well explained, thank you! Very useful video.

Hi great video. I'm just abut to start work on a Mamiya Six automat so your video will certainly come in handy. How can I get the free service manual you mentioned. Tks.

Great repair video! Very thorough. I was hoping to see what you were going to use to reglue the leather at the end of the job. Can you explain or suggest what would be the appropriate type of glue to use for that purpose on these cameras? Also, I have done some minor repairs on Stereo Realists, which I love and are much easier to work on, and have used electrical contact cleaner to clean shutter mechanisms. I have worked on several Realists that had sticky or slow shutters and have corrected the problem on all of them. Is this something that might work on the Wollensak timing mechanism? I'm about to start working on a Wollensak with a non working shutter after watching your video. Its clean on the outside, but curious to see how dirty it might be on the inside. Thanks for the great video!

Bravo pour cette vidéo. J'habite dans le Luberon et je viens d'acheter un MAMIYA-SIX modéle V. Je ne l'ai pas encore reçu et espére qu'il n'aura pas besoin de ce type d'intervention car les informations pour les entretenir/ les réparer sont quasi inexistantes...Merci.

Appreciate you doing this ! Always been a dyi type & into stereo photography for years (TDC, Realist, Wollensak, Revere but haven't done much in years, after I moved & packed all my darkroom gear (did color and B&W neg, E6 reversal, b&w, color plus Cibachrome printing) then digital started takin' over, never thought it could be as good as film in the day. The Bristol wrench looks similar to tork L wrenches today but assume it's a different spline type. Gotta check your other videos out, thanks for what you do !

I found that useful. Thank You.

Bonjour quel est la marque de votre scanner diapositives

Bonjour vous êtes français avec un pseudonyme comme le votre?

Would you be able to share the Jess Powell repair video? The frame counter on my Wollensak 10 consistently jams at the end of the roll, and I can't quite tell what exactly it is causing it.

Many thanks for the video. I've got a mamiya super 23 with 100 mm f3.5 sekor. When I focus at some very distant object and turn the lens focus ring I get infinity right - I need to turn all the way left and the infinity mark lines up exactly with the red mark. Regrettably, the closer objects do not focus properly. I've wasted a few films trying to get it right. When I focus across my room I get a camera viewfinder reading 5 m while a laser viewfinder shows 3.7 m. For an even closer object camera viewfinder shows 2.7 m while laser reads only 2 m. How to fix this, please?

Hello! I’m from new york and I recently purchased a mamiya 6 folding with this shutter. I figured it is impossible to repair the shutters on these things, but turns out I am extremely wrong. Your work is magnificent, and these videos are very enjoyable. I want you to know that providing this information to just a single person on the other side of the globe is extremely valuable. Otherwise, there would never be a video record of the shutter repair, and this would be impossible in 20 or 40 years. Thank you for your hard work. Your video is dearly appreciated!

I like your cleanliness and neatness! Do more repairs of photographic equipment and shoot on video, it's interesting!

Wouldn’t be easier to use RBT stereo mounts? They are better than any vintage mounts and cost is similar.

I have hard time to believe that you're not a trained technician or very experienced amateur. It's pretty difficult to reassemble shutter like this one in proper order without loosing any tiny parts. Do you have a background in mechanics?

Very useful video. Probably time to shoot some slide film and give this a try.

What a thorough job of disassembly! I've collected six of this model and have been able to bring the shutter speeds into spec by cleaning except for sometimes the 300 sec. Every Wollensak 10 that I've bought had slow shutters at 100 sec and higher, with 50 and slower being more or less in spec. (2 seconds is always about 2.7.) Early on I tried winding stronger torsion springs. This made the slower speeds too fast while not sufficiently correcting the 100, 200 and 300. If you make them really strong they cause the mechanism to flex too much when you cock the shutter and it will jam. The problem was always dirty shutter leaf blades. Dirty blades affect the fast speeds more than the slow speeds because proportionally less time is spent fully open and more time with the blades in contact with each other and moving. I've also cleaned the shutter and upon reassembly found the problem had returned because lubricant migrated back to the shutter blades. I wouldn't lubricate any moving parts anywhere at all near the blades. I think it's especially risky with this particular shutter design. You need to have the fast speeds available so you can open the aperture up to the mid settings which is where the lenses are sharpest. As far as I know the slowest slide film that you can get is ASA 50, which means in full daylight you need 200 sec to be able to open to f8.

Thanks for this video!! I've just got a Mamiya Universal!

Would this work for a 600se??

why is your voice so low? its impossible to understand

Do you use rubber cement to glue back the leather?

Fantastic tutorial!! Thank you for uploading. Do you work on other stereo cameras?

You can peel off part of top leatherette and adjust rangefinder alignment via the holes where the screws for adjusting.

Thanks for the video!!!! I have the same camera. I've cla'd the upper viewfinder & rangefinder section of this camera but have not done the shutter assembly yet. This video will be helpful. Many thanks!!!