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Cut a fork into the stationary end of the clamp to straddle the line on the back side of the clamping bar and press the fitting/socket with the moving part of the clamp. That way you're pressing the fitting in straight, not crooked.

Damn very cool man I've been researching and just found out about that tool. Seems way more precise!

try a 45deg. fitting.

Nice work

This seems like fewer steps than other videos for all keys lost. You can just program a new key by resetting the smart box and pressing it to the button and not programming it from an analog key?

So if you have a quick connect with an 11mm barb end the 3/8" nylon hose will stretch over for a tight fit?😮

Great idea/way to do this job. Thanks for this video.

Cool job😊

Dear lord..

Great videos. Thanks.

Maybe you need to invest in some electric tools

Drill saw electric takes 2 seconds 🤦🏿‍♂️

i greased my fitting, I'm not sure if it was a good idea or not. I'm just hoping the grease doesn't make it come apart.

I live in cali so i have to have CARB compliant catalytic converters . It costs 6000 dollars just for the catalytic converters if i buy direct fit . Im wondering if i could just buy cut and weld ones and do this and have it work the same way?

I had a hole in my roof that I was going to fix and I decided to make it into a vent instead.😅. I only have one vent on the roof. And now I'm thinking about adding more holes to the roof.

Was still getting leakage around the clamp even tho it was clamped hard. Ended up using exhaust tape and putty, that it made leak proof.

It would be much more better if you put super glue during the process to make it glued together

A sawzall cuts it out in 5 minutes

Is there a shear type tool that can be used for those? Or too big

Finally someone posting a clip showing that it isn’t just a 15second job while using these ,

Thanks for the video. Ice maker broke and the brown and white wires are suffered. I twisted them back together but nothing working. Does it need to be soldered to work?

Hey trying to deal with existing couple louvered box vents in roof. Have 700sq’ attic under insulated being hot as hell due to minimal 4” grey fluff insulation from 40 years ago. No insulation under roof trusses or gable wall. Going to add 1.5”EPS foam board foil faced outward to gable wall 2X6 studs 13”OC. They are sideways allowing for 11/2” reflective air space. Its a townhome so not wanting go through HOA crap to cut hole and install gable exhaust fan. I pulled the meshing from the roof vents also the circular aluminum piece for keeping critters out supposedly for unobstructed airflow. QUESTION BEING - should I install 1000cfm fan housed directly underneath vents which would end up leaving approx 3-6” from blades to flat top surface of 12” vent. Concerned about high airflow bouncing back and about how much would be escaping through the small louvered slits in the four 3” sidewalls of vent. Sure be better creating unobstructed pathway as in large vents like in operable gable fan vents. Perhaps using fan at slower cfm might work. Or lower fan assembly down lower and utilize flex ducking attached to bottom of vent. There happens to be two vents literally on opposing sides of ridge (which doesn’t have ridge venting.)There be a third vent located approx 8’ over. What if I were to mount fan approx 4-6’ lower than vent/s running air up through flex duct that could have a Y split allowing for the air flow out of two vents simultaneously? For many years I chosen to use my 30” heavy duty fan mounted in the attic cubby hole in upstairs hallway. It mostly seemed useless not cooling attic down at all. After a closer look at the vents prior to just removing the mesh and 3” aluminum band it’s a no wonder hey being so inefficient. Rather than changing vents to something like whirlybirds or better functioning units how could I best jerryrig the existing vents allowing for maximum airflow efficiency. Will most certainly appreciate any advice offered. thanks, Paul Hey trying to deal with existing couple louvered box vents in roof. Have 700sq’ attic under insulated being hot as hell due to minimal 4” grey fluff insulation from 40 years ago. No insulation under roof trusses or gable wall. Going to add 1.5”EPS foam board foil faced outward to gable wall 2X6 studs 13”OC. They are sideways allowing for 11/2” reflective air space. Its a townhome so not wanting go through HOA crap to cut hole and install gable exhaust fan. I pulled the meshing from the roof vents also the circular aluminum piece for keeping critters out supposedly for unobstructed airflow. QUESTION BEING - should I install 1000cfm fan housed directly underneath vents which would end up leaving approx 3-6” from blades to flat top surface of 12” vent. Concerned about high airflow bouncing back and about how much would be escaping through the small louvered slits in the four 3” sidewalls of vent. Sure be better creating unobstructed pathway as in large vents like in operable gable fan vents. Perhaps using fan at slower cfm might work. Or lower fan assembly down lower and utilize flex ducking attached to bottom of vent. There happens to be two vents literally on opposing sides of ridge (which doesn’t have ridge venting.)There be a third vent located approx 8’ over. What if I were to mount fan approx 4-6’ lower than vent/s running air up through flex duct that could have a Y split allowing for the air flow out of two vents simultaneously? For many years I chosen to use my 30” heavy duty fan mounted in the attic cubby hole in upstairs hallway. It mostly seemed useless not cooling attic down at all. After a closer look at the vents prior to just removing the mesh and 3” aluminum band it’s a no wonder hey being so inefficient. Rather than changing vents to something like whirlybirds or better functioning units how could I best jerryrig the existing vents allowing for maximum airflow efficiency. Will most certainly appreciate any advice offered. thanks, Paul

Thank you for mentioning it's between the rafters. I've noticed other videos don't even mention checking for rafters before marking and cutting

😔 'promosm'

You're a hack everyone who has watched this is now less educated

My wire loom looked perfectly fine. No kinks, no sharp bends, I hated to cut the loom and cut the old tape off. But then there it was, a broken Black wire, and a White wire about to be broke

What happened to “without the tool”?

So where's the tool?

*Promo sm* 💖

What?

And then half the lights stay on in true BMW fashion 🤣

Love your work bro 💪🏽 very professional

Yea and how all these hellcats get gone

I think mine has a similar issue. The heat shuts down under 40F and I think it’s the pressure & safety switch after watching the video. I’ll reply back if my problem is the same. Couldn’t find an answer to this anywhere else!

All tools on video not free)but video the best❤

Good video but chewing gum was so annoying that wet spit noise gross

You can also just use some grease, flare out the tube a bit with needle nose to get it started, then just push the greased connector into the tube. No heat needed.

How is a sawzall more difficult?

why didnt you use a sawzall

Does it work okay having the cat that far back?

Excellent thanks

4 years ago…he’s still cutting that exhaust pipe

what a tool.

Boiling water and no tool works

Geez that seems like a lot of work just to get an fitting in the lines. Is it just me??? 🤷‍♂ Now I am wondering if I should go with something else.

Great video thanks

Ware can I buy that tool and how much does it cost ?

Had the ice maker replaced at 8 months under warranty, Now at 18 months the wires are cut at the bottom hinge, I guess the repairman didn't think it was in his best interest to check and reposition the wires. He wanted over $1200 for a new door which is more than we paid for the refrig.. I guess repairmen don't repair things anymore. I will repair it, if I remove the freezer door to do this can I plug the frig. back in while working on it ?

You skipped ahead to where you had already had the quick connect almost completely in. If you're making a how to video then show us what caused problems and what worked so that we, the viewer, can see how you overcame those obstacles. This video is useless.

Good way to roast a blade. I always cut out the shingle with a knife first then use the saw for what its made for.. I've ripped some green heads off for ruining my blades! 😆