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@@HarveyCastro-kk5de it’s full 3 inch exhaust with a vibrant resonator and muffler

@@803nigel it’s 30”x 9.25” and 3.25” thick. It’s a vibrant 12810

@@mr.he-rock-ohh2355 no I haven’t had any issues so far but if I were to do it again, I would just weld it

@ulisessanchez7379 that's what what I thought when I saw it but I wondered if it held up.

@@mr.he-rock-ohh2355 the only concern I had was it being so close to the down pipe but so far it’s holding up well

@@dripxloading you have to change the air oil separator under the valve cover

@@kahleilprice4212 what part?

​@@ulisessanchez7379I think maybe he means the ball. I was wondering that too. I think I have three frozen motors. So if I can repair myself, that would be awesome!

@@TopalTopG yeah, there’s a little plastic cap on the window motor. If you pop that off you can use a hex key to turn it manually

@@ulisessanchez7379 alright thank you

@@drayescobar9469 left: 31211092079 right: 31211092080

@@seanlee4863 I sprayed pb blaster and let it sit. You’ll have to be careful because the ball is a bit brittle and they can break easily

33416752381

Thanx bro

@@deadpotatogarage9445 I’m not too sure what could be causing this. I haven’t had any issues turning it up all the way.

Because the power drops to much when cranking the volume probably a bad ground or a bad alternator

I used the original m20 starter since I used the m20 flywheel

20mm in the front and 15mm in the back. The front pokes out a bit so I’ve been looking for a higher offset pair of style 32 for the front

I just bought 15mm for the front, hoping my style 42s clear. Thanks for your help. I watched your video like 100 times to make sure I got it right

@@NextProjects appreciate you checking out the videos!

No they’re slightly smaller in the back. I have a willwood proportioning valve so I can adjust brake bias and so far I haven’t had any issues

No I used e46 m3 rotors

Yes

17 inch wheels are needed to clear the brakes but I don’t believe it will work on a ti because the caliper and rotor setup is different from a regular e36.

@ulisessanchez7379 Yes, but isn't the rear axle interchangeable with the e30? I thought that you got your 5 lug nut swap from a ti

@@JordivanR it is common for people to use the ti trailing arms for the swap but I used the stock e30 trailing arms and swapped out the hubs for z4 hubs. I made a video about the swap as well

Thanks! To fit flush on an e30 without a spacer you would ideally want 17x8 +20 in the front and 17x9 +26 in the rear. Depending on what wheel you want to go with, you’ll have to figure out if it has enough clearance for the brakes or else you’ll have to run a spacer and higher offset to clear the brakes and still fit flush.

@@ulisessanchez7379 gotcha. Do you think i should be good with an offset of +30 in the front and the rear?

@@LilSwavie it just depends on the backspacing of the wheel. If it doesn’t have any space for brakes you’ll have to run a spacer no matter what offset you have.

Mate is is same for E38 front Brembos as well?

Thanks, I appreciate it!

I do. It’s ulsanchez98 but I don’t use it much. I intend on making another just for the car

Thanks!

That’s the only thing I haven’t really put the time into figuring out. I left it disconnected for now.

Thanks! I also found out that you can use late model e30 motors if you swap out the actual electrical part on your original early model motors.

Thanks! I’m running 17’s. 15’s definitely won’t fit but I’m not sure about 16’s. If you want to fit smaller wheels I would look at either stock e36 m3 calipers or rx7 calipers.

Thank you for replying, I love those style 32's but right now I wanna use 15' not sure the style # bbs's snowflake I believe is what I was tolled .

They are different depending on if it’s an early model or late model e30 but the process should be the same. The slow closing could be a failing motor but it could also be the regulator. I would clean and grease the regulator with either white lithium grease or silicone spray.

No I used the m52 throttle body because I had it laying around. The m50 throttle body would have worked just fine as well.

Thanks! It’s the DJI mic.

I bought it from classiceuroparts. It looks like they currently have it on sale. www.classiceuroparts.com/product/rear-bumper-valance-spoiler-for-bmw-e30-usa-spec-diving-board-zender-body-kit/

I put the link to the side skirts and rear valence in the video description!

Thanks I appreciate it!

The brake bias is fine but I’m also running a wilwood proportioning valve so I can adjust it. The master cylinder and booster are from an e90.

Fronts are 17x8 +20 and rear is 17x9 +26

I notice you leave the head units speaker plus and grounds unhooked. Maybe that’s where I fail. I tried to use them.

I noticed wire colors are similar to mine. I have two brown black wires that are amp grounds and a solid brown wire that is the ground. I don’t see that brown wire on your video. I see you used the two black brown wires.

It took a couple of hours but I didn’t have to struggle with the exhaust since mine is all v band. The shaft came off pretty easy.

I bought them from ECS Tuning. They’re off of an e46 m3.

Thanks! Appreciate it

Dang that’s super unfortunate. Sorry to hear that

It’s an m52b28 with a head spacer, cut ring head gasket, and arp studs. The turbo is a Borg Warner s300 and it’s running a Link PNP ecu

Had to get home somehow 😂

​@@ulisessanchez7379fuck it if it works ot works

Personally I prefer the iron block m52 over the aluminum block m54 but I made my decision mainly because the m52 was more readily available at the time