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650 x 450 x450. Not sure about the settings, but compared to 'normal' printers accel and jerk are super high. :-) I will check later this week.

Thanks, I don't build that many, so when I do I try to do my best. :)

@@Flenderr you nailed it

A Husaberg 570

Yeah its still in my living room so it wiggles a bit, but the intention is to fix the top of the frame to the wall in the workshop. 🤘

@@Flenderr I'd definitely consider some diagonal bracing too... Very cool though - having you got projects in mind that require that build volume?

Hoi! Mijn oom denkt dat deze door een van zijn andere studenten is gemaakt want hij bouwde er geen meer rond die tijd. :-)

@@Flenderr Dankjewel voor de feedback. Het bouwjaar 2000 is een gok, maar de 245 XM Slalom is niet iets wat meteen herkenbaar voor hem is?

Theres at least 10 heavy layers of 45° biax inside, its just the finish layer ;)

@@Flenderr what's your layup? Biax and UD one after another? Whats the total fiber weight /m² on UD/Biax at this layup? What's the profile thickness? I finished my molds today and plan on doing the layup this week

Hi, I just welded a bung onto the front pipe around the clutch cover. :)

@@Flenderr That's the easiest way... Thank you :)

Yes!

@@Flenderr Thks! And theire is a lot of off-road parts?

Overall it's mostly doable on a twin-bike. Almost everything is wide track which you could do with a 4x4 only sometimes sections are very rocky and you are riding over 20cm rocks. So, if you are not alone and you have confidence in your riding a bigger bike is fine. The problem is only if you crash and you have to lift the bike out of a trench or hill side. Personally I would prefer doing it on my ktm 950 adventure instead of the small bikes... more fun, more relaxed, more challenging, easier on the buttocks. But yeah, alone it is risky since the bike is heavy to manoevre. :-)

If you want to drive fast, solid enduro experience is mandatory I think when on a 200+kg bike.

Hey Peter, Euhh nou ik vond het eigenlijk best wel ruk om een week lang op een enduro te zitten en had denk ik meer plezier gehad met de 950. Er zitten wel best veel smalle stenen weggetjes (waar net 1 auto in de breedte op past zegmaar) langs afgronden in de TET ( eigenlijk zowat continu) dus met zo'n zware brommer moet je wel wat meer marge in acht nemen, anders schuif je zo 100m naar beneden als je een keer onhandig een steen, sleuf raakt of een bocht verkeerd inschat. En je moet ze niet laten vallen of van een helling rijden... :p Maar ik zou persoonlijk met 80% van de route geen enkel probleem hebben gehad met de 950 en eigenlijk alleen maar voordeel dat het allemaal niet zo heen en weer wordt gestuurd / geschud door de ondergrond. Onderweg ook wel een paar grote brommers gezien, die hadden er wel iets meer moeite mee leek het. Ook de stukken op de weg zijn dan een stuk leuker... Ik hoorde wel dat verderop de TET italie (na de eerste 600-800km van zuid frankrijk) het zwaarder zou worden met meer technisch terrein. Persoonlijk zou ik niet meer op een lichte motor TET gaan rijden, minimaal xr650r / 690 / 701 of 950.... maar anderen zweren weer bij dat lichte spul. Mijn maatjes vonden dat ook fijner geloof ik.

Hier en daar zit er wel echt een hell-stuk in met weggetjes die echt alleen maar uit stenen van 20-cm bestaan... maar das meer een kwestie van vertrouwen hebben in je brommer en een beetje gas geven. Als je wat minder vertrouwd bent met je fiets dan is dat waarschijnlijk wel heel moeilijk... maar dat zijn maar een paar stukkies / 3% van de route.

@@Flenderr Nu al zin in!! Thanks voor je antwoord

Jup 😄

Cool. Mijn zoon heeft twee CB750's en wil een turbo op zijn Suzuki gs500e zetten @@Flenderr

Deze gaat er weer af... Ik heb ook nog twee straat legale gpz750 turbos... dus ik maak hier weer een simpeler motortje van met 4in4. Opzich werkt het héél goed, maar voor zo'n oud blok is het op het randje. 😅

@@Flenderr Er komen nog steeds leuke upgrades voor dit blok uit.

Ik heb een gaaf luchtfilter en ik zag mooie rvs 4in4’s te koop. Zelf heb ik de originele pijpen.

Unreal tournament g.o.t.y 😅

Yes... leaking waterpump seal, contaminated oil and swollen oil filter. 😌

@@Flenderr thank you....

nympholeptic monkey yes and yes, and also a lot of other mods. It has a lockup now.. :-)

Aww wow man, very nice indeed :D. I have a standard 1984 750 turbo which is sadly impossible for me to ride due to disability. But I'm planning to put the engine in a z650 frame and do much as you have done with yours :). It won't be possible to do for a decade or two but its something to look forward to :) I bet that engine goes like utter stink in a z650 frame! :). When you say you've added other mods, what do you mean? Have you taken it out to 810cc? I've been on the 750 turbo forum and spoke to the very knowledgable gents on there and they've managed to pull 200bhp and in some cases 201mph out of the engine! Which is both impressive and nuts lol :p. I have you gone that far with it? I must admit I'm constantly wondering if that is perhaps a step too far given that a z650 set is sooo much lighter and that you sit fully up right with out a fairing lol i think that that might take more balls than i have lol. Just dealing with that power and speed in the standard bike format sounds utterly mental!! Putting that in a much lighter and non fairing bike souunds like breath takingly terrifying lol :D. I think I only have enough courage to put it in race mode! If you've gone further or perhaps all the way, you have bigger man plums than I sir lol and I salute you! :D

Irvin Rosas forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=127179.400 Its a cbr900 fireblade fork with 4pot calipers and a superbike top yoke. It needs 2-3cm extension on the inside of the legs. Right now it has a 93' cb750 rc42 triple tree with cbr600 f3 fork legs and 2 pot sliding calipers. These forks are longer because on the cbr600 they stick out through the top yoke for mounting the clipons. Perfect for the cb750 sohc. The cb750 rc42 fork legs are basically the same as the cbr600f3 only not adjustable. The cb750 rc42 triple has more offset than the cbr600, closer to stock so better for the bike. Also when you paint it black it looks like stock. ;) The 4pot calipers did not clear the spoke wheel I just installed. Before I had a cbr900/vtr 17" front wheel.

Ilja_ Great, thank you very much for the information.

wow thats an awesome setup, have you considered water methanol to bring the knock down? are you using a 4bar map sensor? im going to have to look into the ignitech. Does it pair with the map sensor through an ecu or just plug and play with a tuner?

SimonSaysR1 No did not look into water/meth. Its a streetbike so like too keep it "simple" 😄. Ehm, the ignitech is just module with a wire for your laptop and tps/map sensor. Its just plug and play with the later 80ies ignition systems so I just installed an '85 kawasaki z550 pulse rotor + pickups and plugged in the ignitech instead of the kawa ic igniter. Lots of other programmable options in that ignition as well... they are from Czech and cost 160 euro or something. I used a 3 bar (absolute) map sensor, you can buy it from them or use one from a T5 van or something. First I used a gpz turbo ic igniter but those are still 30 degrees and the cb is a more low/mid range long stroke engine so more sensitive to midrange ping.

Oil return is also just gravity drain on the cb dry sump engine.. which is nice. If you have wet sump you must install a vented oil reservoir and scavenge from that by/or use a facet pump to pump oil back. Carbs stay almost stock.. just some bigger mains. Just two pitot tubes in the transfer pipe connected to the two atmosferic port tubes as boost compensation. Adj Fuel pressure regulator with boost reference line to the plenum set at 2-3psi and Fuel return added to your tank. You also need a (innovative mtx-L) wideband and set it at 11:1 a/f on wot. Boost controllers suck with internal wastegates... spikes. Just add a spring or use a different actuator. On my gpz turbo I have an external wastegate which works better with a boost controller. Other things.......MLS headgasket is necessary and thats about it. If you dont make it ping you are fine with stock/cast pistons (im using cruizinimage 836cc 150 dollar ebay kit, but broke the ringlands on the first set)

". Just two pitot tubes in the transfer pipe connected to the two atmosferic port tubes as boost compensation." - pilot tubes in the transfer pipe? , are you talking about pilot jet tunnels in the carb or are you talking about the intake itself. Im a bit confused. i have taken apart several carbs ,i wish there was an affordable way to go EFI, but where would i find the two atmospheric ports in the carb. and did you pressurize your fuel tank with a boost source? its funny im running an mls head gasket in my DSM,

SimonSaysR1 noo not that complicated. Keihin Cvk carbs have two vent ports between carb 1-2 and 3-4 near the top cap. Most of the time a tube that just hangs down to nowhere is connected. Those ports are connected via an internal passage to the float bowls. The transfer pipe is the pipe from the turbo to the plenum. Boost pressure is slightly higher there so we install two pitot tubes (just an 8mm pipe) facing into the airstream on the inside. And connect the two vents/atmosferic ports to that. This way you will allways have slightly higher airpressure inside the float bowls, so fuel comes out of the jets under boost ;). Another thing is installing a fuel pump and an fpr. Its just: fuel tap with filter sock -> walbro 393 pump -> t-piece to carbs, tpiece also to fpr -> return line back to fuel tank. The fpr must have a vacuum line so pressure rises lineair with boost and connected to plenum. Just an ebay adjustable fuel pressure regulator.... Simple 😄

SimonSaysR1 gt1752

Ilja_ Dyno numbers? :)