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@@aberba if I remember correctly the screws go right through and then the bearing pulls out. You may have to clamp the gear and pry the bearing free carefully. The bearing is common. I ordered from Bearings Canada. If you have to clamp the gear in a vise use several layers of cloth around the gear. Dont know if you wanted this info but hope it helps anyway.

@@og196364 , I bought it and fasteners and rubber from Restoration Specialties.

the website is restorationspecialties.com. I found them more reasonable than most, their products seem to be of original quality.

@@brianandrews7099 hi, I only did it that way because I didn't trust myself to add the length reliably. I had most of the original to copy. I thought my results would be better if I did it like the original. Your suggestion would be easier if you are confident in the end result. This is the first time I've made a headliner. Didnt trust myself.

Thanks for the history. I knew MTD supplies thr parts now, fortunately they are still available. I didn't know Montgomery Ward owned them as well. The engine is actually quite common according to Lawn Mower Hospital in Edmonton. Its a 2cyl opposed Briggs &Stratton 18 Hp. Thanks for watching.

Thanks. I like to see if I can do anything with junk. If I do it enough I might even learn something. Maybe others can see how to do the work better through the process. Thanks for the like.

Glad I could help.

Hi. Did the brush holder break? How about the commutator, is it really rough? It may not work because the commutator segments have brush carbon between them. You could use a box cutter to carefully remove the carbon. Dont push hard on the blade, it's best to run it lightly between the segments until the carbon is gone. If the brush holder is broken you will probably have to buy a new dremel. The variable speed dremel are about 3x the price of the single speed ones. Hope this helps.

@@notfactoryapproved no the holder is fine. The original carbon brush wore down to the point it no longer existed. When I opened the tool one side the carbon was worn down drastically. On the other side only half a spring was in the holder. The entire carbon piece was no longer..... No traces of it or the other half of the spring.... Was wondering how that's even possible..... It was the first time I ever opened the tool since purchase. How does the carbon brush and 1/2 spring simply cease to exist?

@@notfactoryapproved also I'll try cleaning the commutator free of any carbon traces... At least I think that's what you were suggesting

Yes. That's right. I have only ever seen brushes worn out from a rough commutator. In your case one brush was either defective or the other one was stuck in the holder. It probably was using the spring as the brush. If that's the case you should see a groove cut in the commutator. From what you have told me I suspect you should buy a new one. I have often tried to fix something too far gone and just wasted time and money and then had to buy a new one anyway.

Did that. Had to do it again in about 6 months. That's when I decided to find out what was wrong. No problem with it yet.

Thanks for the feedback. You're right, centering is an issue. I don't have a lathe. You have reminded me though that I have a seal driver that I may be able to do something with. All the best.

Thanks for the advice. I was in the US last week and bought a 4 1/2" shrinking disk. See Episode 118 if you're interested. I may try to make a 7' in the future. I would like to try one that is rippled as well to see if it hammers the metal into place.

Hi, if the image shown is where you have the concern I will try to lighten it up. If there is a longer segment of video let me know and I'll try to improve the images. Thanks.

Carter, thanks for watching. It looks like your saw is a table top unit. It should be using a universal motor. Does it start if you tap the motor? Or carefully start the blade and then operate the switch? Use some wood. These motors have lots of torque. Is there a humming sound at any time? You could check the cord to the switch with an ohmmeter. You can get a useable meter for about 20 $,£,€ depending where you live if you dont have one. Check each wire from the plug to the switch. You could also look to see if there is a red reset button anywhere in the circuit, including on the motor. Good luck.

@@notfactoryapproved Thank You! No, I get NO response. I haven't tried to turn the blade with the power on - The blade does not turn without constant heavy pressure so I can't just "start" it spinning, but I would have heard SOMETHING if it was getting power and stuck. By "cord to switch" do you mean check from the power plug to the switch? I actually think this is a pretty low quality saw - At first glance I thought "This looks like a hand saw they cut the handle off of and clamped inside a steel box." Then I saw a guy write a review who said "This looks like a hand saw they cut the handle off of and clamped inside a steel box." After he dismantled it. I'm guessing there's some fried wires in there. It's funny, I walked by that thing every other day as a kid, impressed with my dad's fancy saw.

Glad to hear it. Thanks for letting me know.

Mr.Fudd, How is your friend Bugs? Unfortunately I have buried the table saw in the new mezzanine. The next time I am up there I will look. If I remember correctly there was a plate with screws holding the bearing end of the armature. There were also screws running through the body of the motor holding the opposite end on. It is normally best to remove the bearing end first. I don't know why I didn't show that part in the video. You may have to separate the motor case to get everything out. If you haven't done it before watch out if there are brushes or not. These carbon segments can get stuck and make it very difficult to get the armature back in..

I just went to the end of the video and worked back. I show the installation of the armature. If you reverse the order it should work. If the bottom bearing is stuck you can pull up gently on the fan as close to the shaft as possible. Or you can pry up on the fan with a screwdriver on each side of the shaft. If that doesn't work try a little heat on the plastic. Then lift or pry, it should pop out.

You're welcome.

Hi OldSchool. Hopefully this description helps. The headliner is sewn where you want the seam to match the hoop position. The hoop position is determined by the location of the hoop retainers on the car. Fold the headliner at these positions and sew a seam-this will result in a hoop but you will use this as a flat piece to hold the actual hoop. I did it this way because I thought I would get a better result than if I tried to make this seam the bow hoop. I then atttached the bow hoop. This hoop is approx 2" of material folded flat and sewn onto the flat piece of material on the headliner seam. If you are comfortable with your sewing skills-I was not-then you can make the headliner seam the hoop for the bow. Doing it my way will result in a better headliner seam and hidden hoop seam. If you sew like I do. I would recommend two seams on the hoop for strength. Sometimes there is a fair bit of force as the hoop pulls the headliner tight in the corners of the roof. All the best, Ron.

To add to my description, The original hoop is shown at 7:30 +. This is the method I copied which is the factory method. This is sewn onto the headliner flat piece (flap) at the bow seam. Fold the headliner at the bow location and leave a flap of approx 1". Attach the hoop to this. Clear as mud?

Che, I wouldn't until there is a problem. The chain and the VVT sprocket wear at the same rate. You shouldn't change one without the other. It is a BIG job to change the chains, tensioner and VVT's. You can check the condition of it all by looking down to the RH side of the block (LH when facing the engine) under the chain. You will see a bracket that has 5 step marks on it. If the tensioner reveals 5 bars you should change the parts soon. You can buy an online service manual for about $40. Try the F150 or Ecoboost chats.

Thanks for your comments. I have only found the front silicone to be needed. I have tried putting some around the vacuum pump housing but it didn't help in the past.

What a pleasant surprise to see your comment. Love you, see you soon. Lord Willing (LW)

Sorry Joe. I owned one but I can't remember for sure.

@@notfactoryapproved Thanks for your time, pretty sure it's similar (rubber gasket).

Hope it works. Are you able to get pinout to make sure you have the right terminals?

You're welcome. That's what I did the video for.

Bodeknocker, I have not found the bolts to be loose. (3 times checking it before and after). I checked mine for warpage and couldn't find any. I can't see in there at all so unfortunately I cannot tell for the head and camshaft. I couldn't see any debris or cracks. I did find the first O-ring to be flattened causing the leak. I have had it leaking after that. I can slow it down considerably but I have not been able to stop it completely. Sorry I can't help. All the best, Ron.

Vofka, There are ready made ones available from Steeles Auto Rubber, Metro Molded and Restoration Specialties. I have found Restoration Spec to be the most reasonable for price but each of them have sales from time to time. For the body mount rubbers I made my own from rubber sheet stock Look for a rubber supplier or rubber sheet supplier. The frame to body rubber is 3/4" (about 20mm) and the rubber on the underside of the frame and top side of the body are 1/4" (about 7mm). I used long bolts with 2 large washers called fender washers. The bolts are 7/16" diameter. All the best, Ron.

Yes, Air Liquide used them for smaller units. Don't know how old it was but it was never used when I got it for $20. Obviously a cheaper unit-4 power levels, 120V. I was fortunate that it is gas compatible. Thanks for watching. I am not sure Cebora is correct but it is an Italian brand that starts with C.

Sorry for the slow response. I missed that you were asking a question. Yes it goes in from the interior. It is possible to do it yourself but much easier with 2 people.

@cmalone20 were you able to fix ,I have a 2013 ecoboost and they told me it's the valve cover gaskets. They are charging me an eyeball so I'm thinking of doing myself.