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Harv441
Добавлен 13 апр 2012
Bicycle Chain Ring to Cassette Cog Adapter
Make an adapter to use a chain ring as a cog. Cheap and easy.
Просмотров: 283
Видео
Raleigh 3-Speed That Never Was
Просмотров 5632 года назад
A 1990 Raleigh with a 1 x 3 Cassette Drive Train
Bike Oven Early Days
Просмотров 1632 года назад
Origins and early days of the Bike Oven. Founders and first volunteers.
USE BICYCLE COASTER BRAKE WITH CHAIN TENSIONER
Просмотров 7 тыс.4 года назад
You can use a coaster brake wheel with a chain tensioner in a frame with vertical dropouts
Backside Sliders
Просмотров 1816 лет назад
History of the Griffith Park Backside Sliders, a Los Angeles motorcycle gathering and racing group that met Sunday mornings during the 1960s through 1980s at the Griffith Observatory.
The Bike Oven Story
Просмотров 6136 лет назад
Complete history of the Bike Oven Los Angeles 2005 to 2018
TENSIONER for single speed bicycle
Просмотров 18 тыс.6 лет назад
Modify a bicycle rear derailleur to function as a single-speed chain tensioner
Bicycle Coaster Brake Hub Engineering
Просмотров 43 тыс.6 лет назад
We take a look at each part of a coaster brake hub to see how it functions and relates to each other part.
Beam Shots: Skywolfeye T96 vs Convoy S2+
Просмотров 5847 лет назад
The Skywolfeye T96 using a 26650 cell is compared to the Convoy S2 using a 18650 cell. Lumen outputs are similar but Skywolfeye run-time is much more. Convoy is floodier.
Skywolfeye T96 XML T6 26650 Flashlight for Bicycle Use
Просмотров 6387 лет назад
Use this flashlight as a bicycle headlight. With the 26650 cell, runtime on high mode is over 4 hours at 500 Lumens.
Bright Bike Tail Light from RED Flashlight
Просмотров 3617 лет назад
Make a very bright tail light for your bicycle from a Cree Q5 Red LED Flashlight.
Joe Bray-Ali at Highland Park Recreation Center concert
Просмотров 1627 лет назад
Joe Bray-Ali, candidate for Los Angeles Council District One, addresses crowd at concert in Highland Park Recreation Center April 15, 2017
Montecito Heights Flat Top area to be used as parkland
Просмотров 2827 лет назад
Joint meeting of Arroyo Seco Neighborhood Council and the Montecito Heights Improvement Association to discuss transfer of Flat Top recreation area to the City of Los Angeles.
Big Bicycle Sprockets; are they more efficient?
Просмотров 27 тыс.7 лет назад
Big Bicycle Sprockets; are they more efficient?
Kidical Mass at Sycamore Grove Park in L A
Просмотров 1328 лет назад
Kidical Mass at Sycamore Grove Park in L A
California's Gold CrowleyHowser Bicycle History
Просмотров 23 тыс.8 лет назад
California's Gold CrowleyHowser Bicycle History
Vintage Raleigh Record bicycle repurposed for urban riding
Просмотров 48 тыс.8 лет назад
Vintage Raleigh Record bicycle repurposed for urban riding
That was fascinating and is EXACTLY what is happening to me. I like them AGAIN. Have great gear bikes I love. STILL enjoy CB. Have CB beater but working to put fine old Austrian CB wheelset on an old steel lugged Bianchi frame!
Going to make me a pair.A green one for the front and a red one for the back tire.I found some scrap leather and just bought a pair of reflectors on EBay.A lot more cheaper making them yourself.
All of my streetfighter builds are twitchy. I attribute it to the narrow bars.
Well done. 👀
That's exactly what I'm trying to do so great to see you've sorted it. Read lots of sites saying it won't work so it was a big relief when your channel showed up!! My wife likes a similar hub gear set up to your Nexus (SRAM S7, coaster brake) and I recently picked up a nice vintage German city bike that previously had a derailleur but didn't spot the vertical dropouts so, like you, I need a chain tensioner. Just curious what chain set up you have - do you run a 3/32" chain set up or 1/8" - a lot of the chain tensioners seem designed for 3/32 and I'm not sure if they're wide enough for 1/8? Also the Nexus hub sprocket looked maybe non standard (or just really new and clean!!). Any advice would be much appreciated. Also if your chain tensioner has proved reliable 3 years on... Thanks.
I mix and match chains, cogs, and rings. If any cogs or rings are 1/8 inch wide, you have to use a 1/8 inch chain. Otherwise you can use either 1/8 or 3/32. So, a chain tensioner with 3/32 cogs will work with either size chain. The cog shown is a Sturmey Archer, not a Shimano item. I like the SA cogs for appearance and availability in the larger sizes, up to 26 teeth. Luckily, Shimano chose to use the same 3-spline cog standard that has endured with Sturmey Archer for over 100 years. This same standard has been used for coaster brakes on US made bikes for about the same time period.
With this tensioner it is unsafe. The tensioner is not strong enough to with stand the pulling force on the lower chain while braking. In this video you can already see the tensioner deflect. That also causes the upper chain to sag. With a sturdy tensioner a coaster brake is not a problem, but this one it too floppy.
This would be true if the tensioner was locked into place. But it is not. It is free to deflect through over 90 degrees against a return spring. The spring allows the chain to be under constant tension throughout the spring-loaded movement of the tensioner. The bottom run of the chain straightens out under braking load and provides all the required braking force. All without unduly loading the tensioner which floats against the return spring.
I don't get why you'd add a tensioner. Coaster brakes work fine without one. What am I missing?
If you have a frame with vertical dropouts, you need a chain tensioner. If you have horizontal dropouts, you can adjust the chain without a tensioner and the coaster brake will work fine.
That's not a derailleur. What if you don't want to reuse it or can't? Low end? Raleigh used to be what I'd call expensive back in the day. I have a spot for a derailleur Hanger which is supposed to be a 7 I guess but the frames got no recess for it so is there such a thing as a flush mount derailleur Hanger or something to that effect?
Correct, that is not a derailleur any more. I stripped off various parts to make it just a tensioner. If you don't have or can not use a derailleur for this conversion, you can not do this project. I can hang this tensioner on any frame; horizontal dropout, vertical dropout, rear facing dropout etc. An adapter may be required, but these are readily available.
The beauty and simplicity of a good coaster brake hub is good. Freewheels and cassettes don't even compare. Steel bike frames and rims are better too. So much for modern technological advancements.
Thinking of changing my gears to an internal geared hub, might try using the derailleur as a tensioner so that if I’m not happy with the IGH I can change back 🤔
pass a dena
I really enjoyed your video i want you to know that i work on lot of bicycles different types and styles and i'm currently working on an earth cruiser and i've never had to deal with a coaster brake before you know everything i've ever done with mountain bikes and i'm trying to build a motorized earth cruiser bicycle and my hub is bad so i want to know if you would recommend a good herb that will fit my earthcruiser unfortunately
How about welding a chainring onto the largest cog of the freewheel? So it would be still possible to use all the other cogs as well?
I don't have welding equipment, chain ring would have to be steel. But you could do it this way.
Wow! What a great idea 😄
I like the 700 wheel in a 26 inch frame. I am also figuring this out on my 26 inch folding bike and I want to move the V brakes up by welding 2 extra V-brake capstands. I like your work and ingenuity 👍
Never seen such a modification like this! But how did you solve the issue with the (4 speed) shifter???
Use a friction shifter with no detents. A basic thumb shifter will work. Cheap and easy.
I had a 2 cog setup on my Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub for a little extra range. I put two regular SA cogs flanges facing to make room for the chain, with a short cage derailleur. It worked OK, but the spring clip would ping off once in a while during a shift. I've heard that this was often done back in the day. I like your project, nice to see tinkering going on!
I miss Dennis and Huell....
Been a while! Interesting piece, though I will wager I will not use the information... LOL!
Maybe not. But when you come to visit, I will have your bike ready for you. Do you want the 40 tooth version or the 42?
@@harv855 | LOL! No idea which is better... And I doubt My damaged hips, knees and thumbs would let Me do much riding. Curses on the jab that gave Me this psoriatic arthritis (back in 1963)! Haha!
Greetings from Croatia! That was awesome, never seen anything like that!! Are you an engineer?
Yes, my education is in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering with California Board Certification as a Consulting Engineer.
@@harv855 it's a pleasure,to watch your videos,Harv! Please,do more of them,they are very educational! Greetings from Kris from Croatia 😎
⚠️CAUTION.Turn down volume by 50% before attempting to listen. 😊 I asked the same question about those big wheel bikes but one thing I’m recently learning is that it is easier to balance from a higher position. 😮 I have to say, the interviewer asked good questions. Subscribed. ❤I love Dennis’s outfits. 17:07 Look at the guy to the left in the high wheeler: Effortless! … I am now at the end. A great story and lovely place … I HAVE TO visit Pasadena.
Interesting build. 3-Speed derailleur drive trains were actually a thing up till the mid 1950s. I had one but replaced it with a vintage geared hub. Was all worn out and I couldn't find a replacement sprocket set.
I was riding bikes in the mid-fifties but I don't remember any derailleur 3-speeds. I would be interested in finding out more about them. btw, for more info on just why 3-speeds can be the way to go, see ruclips.net/video/VLsv-P-ZSco/видео.html
@@harv855 Mine had a Sachs-made coaster brake hub, date coded 1955 with three non standard sprockets, the derailleur itself was made by Simplex, France. Which I figured out was probably a replacement, because Sachs had their own derailleur system (with index!) for this hub and sprocket arrangement. Few of those made it over the pond it seems, but they were very common in the old world. Even more so in the eastern bloc, where geared hubs didn't exist and 3- and 4-Speed derailleur drivetrains were pretty much the only option if you wanted any sort of gearing in the 50s and 60s.
@@westelaudio943 Thanks for the info. Interesting that they could get a coaster brake to work with a derailleur system. Although I have gotten a coaster brake to work with an internal geared hub (see video).
@@harv855 "Working" is a very relative term ;) All there was to make the process more smooth was a little loop around the chain to keep it from slipping off on the top side while braking, and of course the derailleur was more sturdy, and had larger diameter cogs than a modern one, but other than that the brake was just as bad as you would imagine. The front pulley-activated plunger brake didn't really bring it up to a decent standard either - another reason for me to get rid of that drivetrain and replace it with a good vinage coaster brake IGH. It's a shame you can't post links here anymore - so I could show you the original brochure for that system. I since replaced the driver of the original hub with a single speed one from a modern Czech "Velosteel" hub - which is essentially a clone of this archaic 1910 model year Sachs hub, thus it fits perfectly. It is now doing its duty on another 40s or 50s bike - and the brake works nicely without the derailleur.
as general tinker I find a lot of bike mechanics tend to be parts changers than real mechanic's sad to say. now you have sum that can think out the box but no a lot can! now i can imagine one could run a front derailleur with a coaster brake hub?
Probably not, unless the front rings were very close to the same size. Otherwise, you would need a lot of slack in the chain to accommodate. Which would likely cause the chain to hit the stay on braking, and the tensioner would be swinging through a much larger arc. I have never even considered doing this, but if you or someone wants to give it a shot, let us know what happens.
Less sprocket teeths are useful in downhill applications in order to have some lean(chain resistance) and some throttled propulsion on some less inclined segments.
I'd like to see the brake in action :)
What about the money you withheld? Now that the space is back and running why don't you return the bike oven funds.
General asset distribution shown at 19:26 Disbursement of funds detailed at 21:05
To bad the boomers don't get with the times. I mean founders. Cute video.
Is this safe? Chain doesn't come off?
Thebtensioner roller is inside the chain..if outside thechain it wint work🤣🤣
Thanks from downunder ! Wonderful overview of the simple coaster brake . Just picked up an old bike from the 1960's & needed to do an overhaul . Now I've got the low down , cheers ;-)
Build it now. Please.
Very much appreciated this video. I’m single speeding, my nice old mid 80s Raleigh Mountain Tour MB right now, conveniently featuring horizontal drop outs.
Sweet! Nice to see You! Miss You! [hugs!]
Rpm increases in big crank.
My husband, Aaron Woien, is your cousin!
Had one I made for my old bike ! A sears ted Williams model !
Thank you. This is sweet. God bless you.
what is a Bassackal?
The effect of rear sprocket size on derailleur bikes is a lot more complicated than it might seem. In the IHPVA article you mentioned, two important conclusions are reached with regards to derailleur drivetrain efficiency: 1. Derailleur drivetrain efficiency has a negative linear correlation with reciprocal chain tension. In other words, if you apply double the torque into the crank in a given gear combo, then, crudely speaking, you will cut the percentage of power loss in half. 2. Drivetrain efficiency increases with rear sprocket size, all else being equal. Although not directly mentioned in the article, point 2 applies to the chainring as well, albeit to a lesser extent, and this has important ramifications for fixed-gear bikes as you've quite well explained. However, it turns out that points 1 and 2 lead to conflicting advice with regards to minimizing drivetrain losses in derailleur bikes. If one switches to a larger rear sprocket, then chain tension MUST decrease at the same input power and road speed. This occurs because the pitch line velocity of the chain increases. Close inspection of the graph of efficiency vs reciprocal chain tension for a Shimano Dura-Ace rear derailleur (on page 6 of the article) reveals that, out of the 52:11, 52:15, and 52:21 combos tested, the 52:21 is most efficient at a given chain tension. However, this isn't the complete story. When accounting for differences in chain tension required to achieve a given rear wheel torque, the 52:11 turns out to be the most efficient combo up to 6.5 Newton-meters. For a given rear wheel torque of greater than 6.5 Newton-meters, the 52:15 becomes the most efficient. The linear best fit lines of the efficiency data seem to suggest that 52:15 remains the most efficient combo of the three as rear wheel torque continues to increase. This lends credence to the idea that a 15t cog is close to the optimal size for riding at moderate to high intensities on the flat, or when climbing even the slightest of gradients. I am curious as to what effect, if any, derailleur cage tension has on the optimal cassette cog size. I suspect that decreasing cage tension would decrease the relative importance of chain tension, and increase the relative importance of rear cog size, perhaps to the point where the 21t cog might become more efficient than the 15t cog when riding hard.
Gold indeed, thanks for sharing this essential "bah-sickle" memorial tour!
This Huell Howser dude sounds like an idiot when he says "bicycle" that way
@@jensenhealey907efi shhh.. the bike gods are listening...
That was great. It made my day
Thankyou sir.
But how
I did that last year with my folding bike
i broke my tensioner trying this
Thank you. I've been trying to figure out how to reassemble this adult trike coaster break and your video was very helpful.
There was an elevated bike path from Pasadena to downtown LA.
Hi. I drive a coaster brake on my old MTB with vertical drop outs for years now. I built the drivetrain in that way that it was almost a (so called) »magic gear«. The tension on the chain was not perfect but ok - but I always felt a little uncomfortable with it. So, today I tried the chain tensioner and: It worked really well !!! The chain in now under full tension while pedaling and it doesn’t loose much tension while braking. Building this I asked myself why I hadn’t thought of it myself ;-)). The thing is: Because you do not pedal while braking the chance that your chain is going over the edge of the sprocket is almost zero … Cheers !!! And thank you for the hint !!!
Thank you for this detailed teardown of a coaster brake. It is a wonderful piece of engineering, actually! The assembly, if properly lubricated, lasts a lifetime. What other braking system is so simply designed, and so straight forward in deployment, that it impresses an adult, but is so simple, a child can operate it with minimal instruction. Other bicycle braking systems used on bicycles, like calipers, or the disc, overcomplicate the process. The original mountain bike movement, back in the 60's, used old coaster brake bicycles, as they were cheap and plentiful.
Loved when he brought out a derailleur just to trash on it!
Hey! Derailleurs are good for something - I make them into chain tensioners when I have to deal with vertical dropouts. But of course, track dropouts would be best.