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Theoretically possible, since GE is still the same company as back then, but I really doubt that they would 😅

I would love to know if anyone has tried it.

Front lens pack as in the individual elements from the barrel? If it's an original version Mir-1, it should just be fit in with a screw in retaining ring. If the screw-in part is stuck, I've with stuck elements by dripping lighter fluid on it and leaving it to soak for a day or so.

Ok, so I think if the price difference was only $200 and you can get either one right away, I personally would get the X100VI. However, the wait time at my local stores for X100VI is estimated to be 2 months and you can no longer get brand new X100V's. So I don't think that comparison is valid right now. I think it's fair if you enjoy the X100VI, it's indeed a great camera. I'm not sure I'd rely on it to shoot a wedding, but if you offered it to me as a $200 upgrade to what I have, yes, absolutely. I'm also surprised there's so many of you getting them so quickly!?

Oh! I didn't even realize they had the same lens.

That's a hell of a combo XD What lens do you pair with the Xpro3? Have you had a chance to compare the 23/2 x mount with the one on the X100V?

That's so awesome 👍 I think we actually got pretty lucky; it seems that the 2nd hand market started trending upwards again after people started realizing X100VI is also super over-sold.

I hope you do well with it!

it's ... vintage :) first impression is good but i still need to record some videos with this lens. cheers (●'◡'●)@@coffeeandspice

Mir-1V / Мир-1В (B is Cyrillic V), means it was produced in Vologda (Вологда) optical factory

@@VladDick77 wow! Had no idea... спасибо большое

Ha! Thanks! I haven't had a chance to shoot with the sx-70 in a while, but I'm really hoping to pick it up again in the summer. Hope you're enjoying yours!

If you don't want to do much tinkering, get the m42 version, unless you have a specific camera that is m39 or t-mount. It's much easier to adapt m42 to modern cameras. I don't think there's anything optically different in much of them. I would assume that mir-1B is better in terms of serviceability, since they're generally newer.

@@coffeeandspice Thanks for your response 🙂 I ordered a 1972 Mir-1 Black M42

Awesome! I hope you get some awesome shots with it!

Lighter fluid did it yall

Erm, when you say "black ring" I'm gonna assume you're talking about the rear retaining ring with the 4 holes in it? WD-40 and alcohol would not be helpful, since there are no glues or oils in that region of the lens, and there are no elements that "rust". The black ring is secured using 2x M1.4 set-screws. If you've already removed these, then the you need a spanner wrench to unscrew the black ring. There's a type of spanner wrenches specifically for lens work. You can get them fairly inexpensively from AliExpress but they're an absolute must. Let me know how your project has gone on or is going. I'll try to help more if I can.

for sure. i completed it a couple months back and regreased the focus helicoid. mmmmmmmmm it didn't have four holes in it. it was secured with 1 tiny screw. I did need a spanner wrench, i ended up getting the japan hobby tool one for extra torque. At first even with the wrench i coudn't open it. I put lighter fluid in a sringe and dropped some into the openning fixing the black rings threads to the focus helioids outer thread. That ended up doing the job to loosen the thing. Only cut myself once getting it off@@coffeeandspice

Hey, sorry for the late response; hope this might still be useful. The optics center themselves fairly well. The barrel is fairly snug around the elements and minor deviations based on whatever tolerances there are will not affect image quality as much as you might expect. Although based on your other comment, I assume you already noticed how tight the manufacturing is.

Interesting. What about element rotation alignment for the entire system? I'm worried less about tilt adjustments, tho I don't know which element is the compensator for adjusting parameters. From what little I know, I don't think it's either of the front 2 groups

I think you might be overthinking the complexity in these older lenses. In terms of alignment, the fact that there are so few elements means that the overall operation is less sensitive to modern lenses. if you're really worried, play around with it; you should be able to see any decentering in the lop-sidedness of your bokeh.

After speaking with Ilya Volokov of moscow optical workshop, i'm not sure how much i am over thinking. I did a lens test between an unopened (fungus) Mir 20 and one that was disassembled just to compare though. ruclips.net/video/WJsgADzve9s/видео.html @@coffeeandspice

@@bryanoliveira9513 last two rear element needs to be aligned. without lens projector or measurement equipment, mark the orientation of each ring and element so you have a reference to rotate them back where it was. download ISO 12233 chart to shoot a test reference before you open up the lens to check for any misalignment. I have serviced and tested approx 10 pcs of Mir-1/Mir-1b/Mir-1w with ISO 12233 chart. (Ilya Volokov also shared with me that that the last 2 elements are indeed aligned. Just that I don't have expensive lens projection toy like him 🤭)

Hey! Thanks for the support! So yes, the aperture is locked at f/8 in this setup. On your 2nd point, yes the mint flashbar did have a flash sync port. But if I had the flashbar plugged in, the shutterspeed would be locked at 1/40, instead of the 16s i needed to get into place after I pressed the shutter. Also, the external flash that I plug into the flashbar would pop right as I clicked the shutter instead of after I got into the picture frame. That setup would work for subject work, just not self-portraits I think.

Hey, honestly, I don't have a copy of the MIR-1b. However, based on some of the mod videos I've seen around youtube, I would wager that they're fairly similar. If you look up "MIR-1b anamorphic mod", there are quite a few videos that show the how the lens elements are arranged. Also, if you compare the focus ring and the aperture ring markings, the silver and 1b versions seem identical, which would suggest that the mechanical components are identical if not similar as well. Worst comes to worst, if you try opening it up and it seems different from what I show in the video, just make sure to take photos with your phone along the way so you can put everything back together. Remember that any moving parts will require lithium grease when put back and that aperture blades need to be dry. It'll be a worthwhile adventure regardless!

That might be true. I found that the Nissin tends to have a more magenta tint compared to the magnesium cartridges and the Mint FlashBar.

@@coffeeandspice yeah, I have an old school flash as well. It depends on the setting how it’ll react

Ya, if you the lens hasn't been serviced before the grease in the helicoid is probably drying up. When I opened mine the first time, the grease in the focusing mechanism had the consistency of dry toothpaste when it should feel more like a cream. There may also be metal shavings stuck in there from production (happened on my copy of Helios 44-2). Give it a clean and see how it goes!

nissin闪光分两部分。下面的一部分是装电池的；这一部分是用一个夹子夹在相机的下面。另外一部分是闪光；这一部分是有插头的，连接在相机的上面，跟MintFlashbar一样。上下两部分是有电线连接的。

Thanks! 😁

So I ran into this issue as well with my copy. That aluminum spacer ring that sets the distance for the optical block seems to vary a lot between copies. I'll probably make a separate video on this once I get mine calibrated properly, but one idea I have is to cut soda cans to use as shims to add to that thickness. The walls of a soda can is approximately 0.1mm to 0.15mm thick, so you can likely use some very light adhesive to glue 2 soda can shims onto the original ring, then sand the whole thing so that it's level, then try to go down in thickness from there. From my experience so far, 0.1mm is apprimately very roughly 5-degrees in the focus ring. I know that's not ideal, since it'll take some trial and error, but that's the best idea I have for now. Hope that helps. Alternatively, if you don't need the distance markings to line up, then you can just perform the close focus mod on the lens and live with the fact that it focuses past infinity. On the close end, it should focus to about 0.5m on your copy after the mod.

@@coffeeandspice So you mean my copy of the lens (or some copies of the lens at least) are flawed right from the factory and never focused properly in the first place? Somehow adding to the spacer ring seems like a good idead to fix this. Regarding the focus mod: I might try to measure this again, but since my close focus without the mod is only roughly 0.9 - 0.95 meters I ended up at around 0.7m with the mod which is not really great/usable. I mean, that's obviously why people started the mod in the first place. I'd be fine if I could get it to around 0.5, but maybe the easiest way to achieve a proper working lens is just to buy another copy and hope for a better one.

I wouldn't say its "flawed". From what I recall reading, photography lenses in general aren't like cine lenses, in that photography lenses don't have the best tolerance in terms of focus calibration. I think many mass produced photo lenses will have some over focus at infinity to make sure that they are actually able to hit infinity without the factory having to perfectly calibrate each copy. It may as well be that we just have outlier copies or they've been altered before we got them; couldn't be sure. Edit: don't quote me on this..... I could be way out to lunch.

@@coffeeandspice I appreciate your input on this. I guess I'll keep tinkering with my copy and see if I can make something usable happen and if not I'll probably buy another copy in the future. Maybe I'll find a buyer for my "flawed" copy that is better at working with lenses than I am.

@@marcelohm123 I know it can be a bit frustrating. I hope you make it work though; I find shooting with a lens that you fixed yourself is much more rewarding!

I think it depends. From my experience, when I plug a flash into the camera, the camera defaults to 1/40s shutter and adjusts the aperture based on how far the focal point is. If my subject is far away and the camera maxes out at f/8, then turning up the dial would only change shutter speed and doesn't do much for the flash. In any other case, the camera adjusts the aperture between f/32 and f/8, which does affect flash exposure, before it changes the shutter speed. In the comparison discussed in the video, the Mint FlashBar II would just have a shorter max effective distance, even if you crank the dial on the camera. I'm sure that's not the case for all versions of the sx-70, especially the Alpha-7, but at least for the earlier copies, I've found that that's the case. Hope that helps?

The sx70 changes the aperture for using the flash, it closes it or opens it depending on focus settings and the exposure dial when using the flash

Ya, exactly! Not really my idea though; just thought it's cool.

Thank you so much! Glad to hear it.

@@coffeeandspice Would love to see if you could experiment with a sx-70 remote shutter button (places like retrospekt/brooklyn film camera sell them)

Oh! I didn't know those things existed for unmodded sx-70s. I'll definitely pick one up for experimenting with long exposures later on. Thanks!

Ha! Yes, hi there XD

Ya, glad it's useful!

Ha! Thank you, thank you. Traffic is sparse around here but always good to know someone appreciates it!

Oh, thank you! I'll check it out.

Thank you so much! It means a lot to know someone actually found it useful. Glad it helped. I hope that lens does well for you; it's been great for me so far. I appreciate the support too; it definitely give me a bit of motivation to do more. I hope to make more videos soon, so maybe I'll see you around.