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@@HollywoodMechanic thank you

if you are using 0w16 you need to do your research as to the REAL reason manufactures suggest that ultra low viscosity oil ... Its not because of so called "tighter tolerances" , its all because of CAFE / EPA fuel economy regulations . They don't have long term engine reliability in mind . I've pulled apart engines that have lived 100 thousand + miles using 0w16 and 0w8 oil . the cylinder walls are heavily scored , these engine use a lot of oil between oil changes . my suggestion is if your car calls for 0w16 or 0w20 , you can safely step up to a 5w30 full synthetic without any issues. I've tested this numerous times on many different vehicles

@@EverydayJ1786 fluid pressure is critical on toyotas new engines 5w-20 is not a good oil when 0w-16 is recommended.The protection is there,no need for heavier oil.

I found that site through my research but there are so many opinions and hearsay with not a lot chemical testing or break down of the exact science. Also, most of the testing that is on there is from an unknown engine source. I was unable to say for sure what was right and wrong from Bob is the Oil Guy. Some of the things I found on there that were not true is that group 5 oils destroy cats. I have been running RedLine HP in my mercedes for 100,000 miles now with no cat issues, and less oil burn, which, ultimately means less burn through the cats. Another thing I found was that ester based oils cause seals to leak. Again, I have not found that to be the case and the technical documents I found said that PAO causes shrink and proper group 5 oils should be formulated to offset Ester and PAO effects and have a net 0 result. I have heard great things about his site, but I just couldn't wade through the pages and pages of unknown user posts and then make something that I stood by. Hopefully you understand.

@@HollywoodMechanic I agree, the site was much better back in the day.

@@robertcomella8486 yes. The design is flawed. I have other videos clearly showing an inadequate snap ring not designed for lateral load as well as the geometry of the shift fork bushings lacking in several ways. They all fail

@@HollywoodMechanic thanks....time to sell mine, had for 4 years with no issues...time to get out

@@x.x..x.x I only have some of the lights on when recording. I have lights on various switches to facilitate working in different parts of the shop or for film.

@@ShaunGlenn-h5v HollywoodMechanic.com/shop. Search Spirit of Ecstacy

@@Connor4x4 nice brother. Not an easy task to research, is it? It really brought into question the validity of other Google information searches. Good info is still hard to find

@@HollywoodMechanic took years of research and my own testing. And yes, I also found that mobil1 shears down a grade very fast.

@@Connor4x4 it's crazy to me that no one does oil analysis. We offer it complimentary with every fluid service. Everyone would see mobil shearing but no one is aware. Also the benefits of the oil analysis save thousands on repair bills

@@simonmarsden9881 I don't think they care about the ptu. 5 official ferrari dealers buy my repair kits 🤫

The issues are over exaggerated. Go for it.

@@feelingawesomeness I have not tested it. If you can remove the boot and the ball joint and send measurements, I can confirm. I have a 360 coming Wednesday that I can check and confirm.

@@HollywoodMechanic did you get a chance to check the measurements with your client's 360?

@@feelingawesomeness yes. It is not the same. Sorry forgot to report. I did find a stock car part that works from a different car. I forget the model. I'll look for it Monday morning. I think it is A Ford, but I can't be sure.

@@DocBonzII I can't remember exactly but I think it's on the shelf in the back of the cabin under the carpet

@@davidcooper3871 if it started after a track day, a rebed will not fix it. The track day burns off a lot of pad so burning off more is not likely to help. I would check for fluid leak from the Pistons or uneven wear on the pad.

@@HollywoodMechanic will do this. Surprised to hear that 1 track day could be the cause on PCCBs.

@@davidcooper3871 I've seen drivers go through a entire pccb pad in one track day. Just depends on the driver, the track, and the temperature outside. But I'm betting something is not wearing evenly in the calipers.

@@HollywoodMechanic I removed the pads on front right. They were indeed thinner than expected with the metal pins showing. Thankfully the rotor is fine. Ordered new pads. I’m willing to bet that solves the issue.

@@davidcooper3871 I've seen drivers wear straight through the pad and half of the backing plate and rotors still looked like new.

@@kabirthepunjabi never had a problem with cat damage. Motul and redline meet manufacturer standards with both these oils. Even if it did damage cats, such a minimal percentage of oil is burnt, unless there is a leak into the combustion chamber. And even mobil 1 is damaging to cats if you burn it.

Also if I drain the system, how much fluid did it take to refill? I just wanna know how much fluid to have on hand. My left front line was severed it still has fluid in there but I'm replacing the shock and the lines going to the shock. Thanks.

@@theeverydayguy2938 haha nope buddy. Gtc4lusso I just had to rebuild with 8000 miles on the odometer. The forums never cease to amaze me. Ferrari doesn't change anything. Ever. If it was a big problem before, it still is. Until they replace whatever it is with a completely new model. So many times I hear, "oh they updated the 7dct and only the Californias have problems. Meanwhile I'm doing weep seals on 488s and 812s 🤣

There are two separate loops that are connected only by a "plunger" for layman purposes. So they don't connect with fluid passing between the two. If they did, you would have just one connection point. If you have a leak in one individual hose, it is possible to evacuate only that one line. But you better be 100 percent sure that you disconnect the right lines on each side and connect to the proper loop connection point. On the Rivian, unlike the McLaren, I have not taken every trim panel down to ensure there is no equalization point or to trace each line. Also, if you have a loss of fluid, and the reservoir were to run out of fluid, both sides would have air in the lines. So, if you already have to go to each corner to undo one line, why would you not just do both lines? It adds maybe 20 minutes of time to the hours long job and allows you to completely replace all fluid as a maintenance item as well as being sure 100 percent, that there is no air in the system. I'm not the mechanic that wants to redo hour of work because I was trying to save 20 min. And putting this info online, I know, people like you have no idea what I'm talking about so trying to explain it all is a waste. If you do both sides, you won't mess it up. And you don't need to blow air. If you use the machine I sell or make the machine yourself, just bleed the air out of your supply line from your pressure tank before closing the valve to that tank, then open the line to the vacuum pump and fluid trap, connect to the car, and disconnect the lines at each corner one at a time (or both lines on each corner, just do one corner at a time) until you hear air coming through it, and the fluid trap will catch all the fluid and you will have a fluid free system that allows you to draw perfect vacuum for the refill (some fluid will remain, but not a fluid blockage that prevents near perfect vacuum needed for air free fill. I'm going to pin this comment, so that you all will stop asking for extra free info. I gave you all you need to do it, but all of you are ungrateful and continue to pose more stupid questions that waste my time. You're welcome.

@@dmitka8324 only if you feel confident in your driver control. I drive with tc off on every car I drive. You should definitely spend a lot of time on the sims and on tracks so you can spin safely and learn the signs of traction loss. In the video here, I'm not trying to advise everyone to drive with TC off. Just more letting you know how to tell who drives with it off

I agree. The EPA is so foolish in that they set these rules, but don't pay attention to the problems they cause. You should check out my video on plastic in the engine bay. "Automakers are burying pollution for profits."

Thank you, and yes I'm aware. We obviously cannot always land on exactly the same mileage but when we see oil cutting weight in the 500 mile range, it's not safe to wait until the full oil interval to change the oil. With redline, it doesn't matter how long we go, it never cuts the weight without some kind of dilution (usually water or gas). We have many vehicles now only using RedLine for muliple changes so our database is always growing. I will say, regardless of which oil is in the engine, our policy of analysis on every fluid we change has saved several engines and transmissions from catastrophic failure. That's the real reason we insist on providing that service complimentary. We need to protect ourselves from engine or transmission damage from shops that worked on the vehicles before us or clients that come in with time bomb components. Glad you enjoyed the content and thanks for the comment. It's very important to know the correct way to compare fluids.

I have not used this oil before. Maybe they can send some sponsored oil to compare when my channel gets big enough

@@HollywoodMechanic any recommend on oil for the Porsche cayanne v6 3.0 tdi Audi build diesel engine? 200k miles on the odometer. A little chain rattle at start up. In the mountain west. Winter lasts like 8 months here. Thanks great info . Bought liquidmoly 5w-30 and 0w-30 to test. Maintenance records show Mobil 1 0w-30 was used till diesel gate flash then Mobil 1 5w-30 🤷

I have not used them or reviewed their data yet

Good to hear some feedback. I have never seen a 458 fail, but 2 488s now in much less time. So maybe the brake master is just insufficient but the turbo car's vacuum pump system is more demanding on that weakness?

I hope you're not talking about an M5 with the S63 engine. I just sold my N63 (almost same engine for the v8 TT non M cars) and it was a complete nightmare to own. I spent $5000 in parts alone, not including the notorious valve stem seals and guides or the $3200 fuel injectors. That motor had 24 different fluid hose connections to pull that motor and you have to do it after 10 years because the plastic intake leaks boost. Such a nightmare. If you have good mechanical hands, you can do all the Ferrari stuff yourself. The BMW requires much more skill and time to service as well as needing ISTA to try to diagnose their "torque request" system that won't tell you what's wrong, only the engine is low on power. Such a nightmare.

Thats interesting. Would you consider v8 mid engine Ferraris more reliable than v12 counterparts? 360 and 430 and 458?