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I hope the Curly Maple meets your needs. Etsy is only a small amount of my veneer inventory. I have over 1600 listings of veneer on Ebay as seller Thinwoodandoldtools.

I can see sandbags working just fine. Yes a veneer softener will improve your chances of the veneer flexing over the tight radiuses.

The face and reverse sides are bare wood. Just like lumber but thinner.

Fumed Eucalyptus

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try the next time I dare work with Padauk and Maple.

He is?

I'm glad you like it. The Birdseye Zebrano veneer is available in my Etsy shop VolpeWoodworks.

@@volpewoodworks9286 many thanks, i will head over to your etsy shop.

Table saw, not a bandsaw

I will certainly check for overly loud tool noises before posting.

Its because at the start you can see that the back panel and the top/sides of the cabinet are already sitting flush together, even if you reduce the thickness of the cleat it will still be sitting past the top causing it to not sit flush against the wall.

I'm glad it inspired you to attempt the project. A bit of advice, practice the entire process but don't open the glue bottle or use veneer. Practice with poster paper. Practice enough that you are comfortable with the clamping process. Clamping is the key to this and all veneer projects. Poster paper will flex around the curves similar to wood veneer. You have about 15 minutes of open time with PVA glues so you better know your clamping process well. Always good to have a second pair of hands and eyes around. Let me know how the project turned out.

Yes, I have several customers who make fingerboards from my veneer offerings. I personally have not made fingerboards before but I'm sure you can find tutorials on RUclips that can show it is done.

@@volpewoodworks9286Thank you very much for responding, all along I thought its just one type that can fingerboards, knowing about these veneers will help better my search

Providing adequate clamping pressure to the veneer at the point where the neck joins the body is the key. A shim ( proud of the fretboard) of rigid foam placed over the veneer in that area prior will allow the top layer rigid foam to push down over that area with out having to conform to the shape of the body and neck.

Thanks Bill. How are you?

I agree it would be more efficient to layup both sides at once and save time. For the novice veneer user the physical process of getting the adhesive spread on both surfaces, aligning the veneers and then getting it under clamps could extend past the 'open' time of the adhesive. Making it a two step process until you have more experience keeps it simple. Recently I had a screw up where I bonded the left and right sides of a box at the same time and didn't see the veneer on the right side slipped out of alignment. PVA adhesive is slicker than snot on a door knob.

​@@volpewoodworks9286this makes sense. It's possible, just more risks involved. Thanks for the insight!

Box making is a wonderful hobby. Let me know you Etsy store name, I'll check it out.

I tried the #10 scalpel and #11 Xacto blades. For general use my preference is the safety razor blade.

I just uploaded a new video with Ovangkol as a suggested veneer for a rookie veneer user.

For the existing holes I would use a #11 Xacto blade. Make shearing cuts using the hole sides as your guide. Only push down to sever the wood fibers. This way you won’t pull up any fibers at the edge. A flush trim router bit can work. But you risk pulling off some of the wood fibers leaving a jagged edge. I like the control I have with hand trimming. Figured veneers like curly maple have short fibers and tend to crumble if enough pressure is applied.

I switched from perf to solid a few year ago. Even though I can't see the join line I'm confident of the seam is tight.

No not at all.

Good to hear.

This jig will work fine on a Strat body. Note the lack of an edge binding will leave a visible glue line. You can minimize it under your burst color. If possible, practice with scraps of veneer the sanding to a feather edge. Get your method down pat. You don't want to mess up a perfectly bonded veneer and ruin it with a sand thru.

Good glad you like the veneers. White Ash burl has a small cluster size and would show well on a bentwood ring. The vavona is a tight cluster too but I suspect it's too brittle to flex. Maple burl could work. I have some old growth Hemlock that has annual rings 1/32nd or less. Their is a video on it.

Didn’t Italians used to put hemlock in their eyes to make dialated pupils more attractive? Maybe it was a distraction from the burley veneers, definitely more interesting than the Alfred Hitchcock hypnotised sock puppet technique for a balanced earthly look. Take the viewers to felmores right before Brentwood, so they can see the fleet in the history reenactment series 😵‍💫. When you say there’s an ugly annual video ring on it, was there an inspirational incentive, or just a message of friendly good will, with the intention of transferring some kind sentiments? I mean, that Alfred Hitchcock did appear to feature a bleeding helicopter lamp on the ceiling with a tassel stuck on it like an epaulette, but I wasn’t going to mention the gruesomeness personally; but then maybe I could grow my feet to a size 10 so I could wear your shoes as a boxer.

Let me know how it turns out for you.

The veneer furthest away from my face is Paldao.

It so new to my inventory I haven't had time to use it. I'm thinking a bentwood ring or cuff bracelet would show off the grain lines the best. Perhaps sliced on a 60 degree bias to make it even more visually interesting. Those straight grain lines make me think rectilinear but I want to incorporate it in something with curves. It's very aromatic, the shop smells nice.

Yes please send me some images of the completed project.

I would love to see the project.