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Dear Saha: Brazilian pennywort (Hydrocotyle leucocephala) did very well, for me, for some time. Then, inexplicably, it died out. I purchased a large amount of pearlweed (Micranthemum micranthemoides), online, a few years ago. Unfortunately, as I placed the order, during cold weather; and, the seller didn’t include a heat-pack, it expired. Water wisteria (hygrophila difformis) is one of my, favorite, aquatic plants. It did very well, for me, for years. Unfortunately, it is not currently thriving, in the few tanks, where I keep it. I’m not sure why this is; as the plant is usually very hardy and fast-growing. For years, I resisted using sponge filters, in favor of hang-on-the-back filters. The black intake, of a hang-on-the-back filter blends in, with a black backdrop. I suspected that a sponge filter would be difficult to hide, behind the hardscape. However, I’ve since acquired black air-tubing and small, sponge filters. The tubing blends, with the black backdrop, and the sponges are easily hidden. I’d like to see more hardscape, in this tank. Then, your, sponge filter will be easy to hide. Thank you, for sharing this, interesting update. All my best, Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

These much soil trigger algea ?

Dear Saha: Most, common, aquarium snails, like mystery snails, nerite snails, and ramshorn snails, do not typically eat healthy live plants; instead, they primarily eat algae and decaying plant matter, so if you see them nibbling on a leaf, it's usually because the leaf is dying or already damaged. Many, aquatic plants, in the hobby, will survive a soak, in alum solution, for 48 hours. The solution should contain one tablespoon of alum, per one, US gallon, of water. This treatment will destroy the eggs, of most, pest snails. For more delicate, aquatic plants, it is best, to examine them closely, for pest snail eggs, before adding them, to a tank. I would remove the white cloud mountain minnows, from this tank. Some pea puffers are a little timid, but most are pretty aggressive and territorial. They may be prone to fight the white clouds. I hope you have good success, with this set-up. All my best, Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

Dear Saha: I’m intrigued, by the idea of using a tank, specifically to propagate and test flora. It seams the only algae issue, in this tank, is green hair algae. I’ve had some success, ridding plants of it, by spraying them, with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). This usually works well, with more durable species, like anubias. More delicate species, such as Rotala rotundifolia don’t often survive such treatment. But, green hair algae can sometimes be removed manually. Thank you, for sharing your progress, with this set-up. All my best, Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

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Please share the plant names used and from where it can be purchased

Dear Saha: According to Google, It is generally necessary to use dechlorinated water when rinsing aquarium filter media, as tap water containing chlorine can harm the beneficial bacteria that live on the filter media, which are crucial for a healthy aquarium ecosystem. However, if you search this, on RUclips, you can see that aquarists have found that this is not actually necessary: Tap water VS Fish tank filter. #tips #filtermedia I noticed that your, LED, aquarium light sits right on the glass canopy. It is my understanding that adding some distance (with the brackets that come with the light) between the light and the glass is helpful, in reducing algae. This is because of the way light bounces through the glass, when it sits directly on it. I’m not sure this is true, but I do use brackets, with my, LED aquarium lights. One of my, LED lights is actually too wide, to fit, under the wood canopy, with the brackets. I solved this issue by gluing small, plastic lids, to all four corners, of the LED aquarium light. I suggest that you scrub the green hair algae, off your piece of driftwood, before it gets out of control. I use a wire brush, for this, which takes a tiny layer, off the surface of the driftwood. But, the amount of wood, removed from ornaments, when doing so is negligible. Personally, I gave away all my driftwood, in favor of rock hardscapes. I’ve found that driftwood tends to promote algae, with the nutrients it exudes. One plant, with which I have had good success, is Hygrophila corymbosa (cherry leaf variant). I suggest this, hardy, fast-growing plant. It has large leaves and really adds bulk, to a stand of plants. Thank you for sharing your, interesting update and maintenance video. All my best, Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

Good sir

Dear Saha: I’m pleased, to see that you set up your tanks, correctly, ensuring that beneficial bacteria are available, before you add fauna. The most common mistake, in the hobby is probably adding fish, before a tank is ready, to handle the bio-load. Personally, I prefer to have a large hardscape. A tank looks most natural, when the largest pieces, of a hardscape are of an odd number and all of the same material. If you add two more pieces, of the same type of driftwood, to this set-up, I believe it will look best. Of coarse, once the plants fill in the scape, it should look terrific. Thank you for sharing, this interesting, aquascaping video. All my best, Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

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Dear Saha: I am reminded, in watching the following video, on RUclips: Aquascape Tutorial Step by Step 90cm Planted Aquarium that many aquascapes are higher, on the back sides. Having a rounded substrate, is my, personal preference. I wonder how much difference, with regard to light intensity, it will make, for your plants, when you move them, to deep aquaria. Although water does filter photons, I doubt that a mere foot would make much difference. I’m very impressed with the success you are having, in this tank with Cabomba. I’ve tried to keep it, but was not successful. When it deteriorates, it drops loads of needles, which are problematic, to remove. I may give it another try. Thank you, for sharing this, interesting video, on your, plant-testing setup. All my best, Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

Dear Saha: I have found that if you soak paper towels, with white (clear) vinegar and press them, onto the glass, of an aquarium and leave it for 24 hours; then calcium deposits are easier to scrub, off the glass. I have heard that “Bar Keeper’s Friend” cleanser is also useful, for removing calcium deposits, without scratching the glass, but I have not tried it. Of course, it is necessary to clean a tank, with these items, when it is empty. I shape the substrate, of my aquaria, in a “rounded” fashion, so that it is deepest, in the back, center. If the substrate is lower, on the front and sides, it creates the illusion of depth. I have not had any success, with red plants. It is my understanding that to keep them red, you must use high-intensity light and CO2. Although one of my tanks is CO2-injected, when I used high-intensity light, I got too much algae; so, I reduced that and removed red plants. Thank you, for sharing this, interesting, set-up video. I hope you have good success with it and look forward to the next installment, of this project. All my best, Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

I don’t understand why is RUclips showing me this ! I’m in England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 I would like to know what this man is saying

My name is SHIVA

an give for single angelfish female

You have so many beautiful fishes. #Sahasfish farm

Dear Saha: Cabomba caroliniana appears to be doing very well, in your set-up. Even without CO2, you can have reasonably good success, with some, aquatic plants. I believe some of your plants would do better, with more nutrition. You could add liquid fertilizer and/or root tabs. However, I’ve found that it is just as effective, to fertilize the substrate, with compost (horse manure, that has been processed, by cooking and grinding). You can add it, to an established tank, by wrapping it in brown paper (from a paper bag or packing material). You can push packets of compost, into the substrate, close to your, rooted plants. As long as you don’t get any glue or toner, in your tank, the brown paper will decompose, causing no issues for plants or fauna. With a “sand cap,” the fertilizer will largely remain, in the substrate, so that it won’t cause a lot of algae, by leaching, into the water column. However, it is advisable to have a couple of inches of substrate, above the compost. I hope you have good success, with your, aquarist endeavors. All my best, Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

Dear Kishore: Last year, I gave about 18 cherry shrimp, to a friend, who put them in a 40-gallon tank, which had been set up, for a couple of months. Most of the shrimp expired. With nano-shrimp, such as cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) it is good to move them only to a tank which has been set up for at least four months. If there is bio-matter, in a tank, this gives biofilm a chance to cover all of the submerged surfaces, so the shrimp can graze, constantly. The nitrogen cycle, of a new set-up takes about six weeks, to complete. You can speed this up, by adding used, filter media, which is full of beneficial bacteria, to a new set-up. Until the nitrogen cycle is complete, ammonia spikes are likely to be dangerous for shrimp and fish. I hope you have good success, with your hobby. Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

shrimps ache he bhai

Nic

Dear Kishore: I do believe the unidentified plant is a species of cryptocoryne. It does not appear to be Cryptocoryne wendtii. It could be Cryptocoryne affinis. I truly appreciate you putting the binomials (Latin names), of your species, in subtitles. In my experience, cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi), do not reproduce well, in the presence of any fish, which can devour shrimplets. However, the only species which will eat all the blackbeard algae (Audouinella), in a tank is the true Siamese algae-eater (Crossocheilus oblongus). They do not eat flat types of algae, though. So, to rid large leaves of plants (like anubias) of flat algae, the best species is the ancistrus (Hypostomus cirrhosus). Ancistrus are not as likely to eat shrimplets as true Siamese algae eaters. I’m very impressed, with the terrific success you are having, with your flora. I am surprised that only part of the tank has a fertilized substrate; yet, some plants are doing well, in the sand. Keep up your, awesome hobby and sharing same, on RUclips. All my best, Sincerely, E. J. Brinegar

Light konsa use kiya he?

us plant ka nam hao keptro coren

Nice😇

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Buggy

Price idea buddy

Price idea plzzz

Hi brother need thaisilk female...any available

Price

Price

Rocky. We miss you buddy 🎃

masth he bhai

Dam the music .And u got a nice video

female he kya bhai

😍😍

Sell karoga?

Nice Fish 😘😘

superb quality bhai

My flowerhorn srd baby not eating food why plese tell something that

Fishlinks Hyderabad

Bad guy

Brother... Contact plz... Can i buy from u

🐟👍

Bhai meri flowerhorn ka head zada nai nikal ta kya karu

Super da thambi